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post #31 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 03:11 AM
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Should make a pretty decent difference, based on the fan curve:
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post #32 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 03:56 AM
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I would turn turbo off if you are overclocking, also cool &quiet off, C1E off until you figure out your voltages and speeds.

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post #33 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 10:39 AM
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I vote for ignoring the cpu stuff for the moment, other than setting it to 4ghz with NO TURBO. and no power saving stuff on. the swapping back and forth from super low clocks to regular clocks DOES cause stability issues on some motherboards.


You are perfectly describing VRM overheat protection.


MSI was well known for using sensitive crap power delivery on the AM3/3+ motherboards. Powerful on paper, crappy in real world use. The 990 chipset baords are better though.



COOL THOSE VRMS!!!


then you can really have some fun!


I checked out that recommended fan off ebay, holy cow, I need a pair of those in 120/140mm size if someone knows the model number. I dont care about ahving a computer that is hvoering 3 inches off the desk lol.


I also recommend once again, setting everything to default, and simply recording WHAT it is doing at stock. voltages and temperatures. 9 times out of 10, stock voltages are HIGHER than needed. This means you can slowly increase form there, and NOT use adaptive or offset voltages. Remember, offset voltages do change under load more than SET voltages.



If it comes down to it, you can find a single tower style air cooler like coolermaster hyper 212 for 15-30 bucks shipped, and enjoy MUCH more cooling ability. I think Tuniq also makes a nice tower cooler.


My FX9590 220watt cpu was able to be cooled at stock 4.7ghz clocks with a hyper 212 for a fun experiment. It did not like it, but it was stable, could game for hours, and BARELY survived (over 70*C) a prime95 test (DO NO RECOMMEND unless your winter-effected computer room has no heater!!)
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post #34 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 11:56 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by mattliston View Post
I vote for ignoring the cpu stuff for the moment, other than setting it to 4ghz with NO TURBO. and no power saving stuff on. the swapping back and forth from super low clocks to regular clocks DOES cause stability issues on some motherboards.

You are perfectly describing VRM overheat protection.

MSI was well known for using sensitive crap power delivery on the AM3/3+ motherboards. Powerful on paper, crappy in real world use. The 990 chipset baords are better though.

COOL THOSE VRMS!!!

then you can really have some fun!
Could probably do 4.3GHz safely, but undo the base clock OC (set it back to 200MHz). Looks like it hit voltage wall at 4.4GHz.

Quote:
I checked out that recommended fan off ebay, holy cow, I need a pair of those in 120/140mm size if someone knows the model number. I dont care about ahving a computer that is hvoering 3 inches off the desk lol.
It's hard to find 120mm Deltas with PWM. Your best bet is probably the Noctua IPPC series.
For 140mm, Silverstone FHP141.



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post #35 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 12:16 PM
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About the I/O panel, remove the I/O plate. It blocks air flow right where the VRMs are causing hot air to pile up right where you want max air flow.



Did ya say ya want big fans?
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post #36 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 12:57 PM - Thread Starter
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As far as overclocking goes, I'm not going to turn off any of the power saving options as they only hinder my computer from overclocking and make it much hotter than it needs to be. Staying at 4.4ghz until I can find a way to cool the computer. Bumping up the voltage only concluded I need double the volts for 100mhz added.

As far as cooling is concerned, I had an idea. I was trying to get my CPU off of my heatsink some time ago. I was using a blow dryer on it to try to get off the thermal paste. It was stock paste and I never knew what I did at the time before building the computer, so it was some years before I changed it, so it was stuck to the heatsink. So with the blow dryer, I could put my hand nearly directly onto the air coming out. It was bearable. The heatsink however, got so hot, I think if I had touched it for more than 1 second, it would have burned me.

Unfortunately, I don't think there are any heatsinks that are entirely ventilated (as in no plate on the other side). So I was thinking, if I put copper coiling behind my fans, wouldn't it cool down the air coming into the computer? If a blow dryer can make the copper heat up way beyond what the dryer itself can output, couldn't an intake do the same to cool it down? People obviously use water and ice on a makeshift A/C machine, but I think without it, the properties might be enough. Perhaps adding stagnant water into the coil and just closing it off?

EDIT: The closest thing I could find to any sort of data behind this is a guy who tested the temps with the coil and coil with water. I can only imagine he was in a room that was at 30c or so, hoping that's the case. With just hte coil, it was blowing out 21c temps. If it were able to knock off that much heat (don't really know just guessing) then it would definitely make the inside of a computer cooler too.

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post #37 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 06:24 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by EGC View Post
As far as overclocking goes, I'm not going to turn off any of the power saving options as they only hinder my computer from overclocking and make it much hotter than it needs to be. Staying at 4.4ghz until I can find a way to cool the computer. Bumping up the voltage only concluded I need double the volts for 100mhz added.

As far as cooling is concerned, I had an idea. I was trying to get my CPU off of my heatsink some time ago. I was using a blow dryer on it to try to get off the thermal paste. It was stock paste and I never knew what I did at the time before building the computer, so it was some years before I changed it, so it was stuck to the heatsink. So with the blow dryer, I could put my hand nearly directly onto the air coming out. It was bearable. The heatsink however, got so hot, I think if I had touched it for more than 1 second, it would have burned me.

Unfortunately, I don't think there are any heatsinks that are entirely ventilated (as in no plate on the other side). So I was thinking, if I put copper coiling behind my fans, wouldn't it cool down the air coming into the computer? If a blow dryer can make the copper heat up way beyond what the dryer itself can output, couldn't an intake do the same to cool it down? People obviously use water and ice on a makeshift A/C machine, but I think without it, the properties might be enough. Perhaps adding stagnant water into the coil and just closing it off?

EDIT: The closest thing I could find to any sort of data behind this is a guy who tested the temps with the coil and coil with water. I can only imagine he was in a room that was at 30c or so, hoping that's the case. With just hte coil, it was blowing out 21c temps. If it were able to knock off that much heat (don't really know just guessing) then it would definitely make the inside of a computer cooler too.

No doubt, I was meaning turn power-saving features off when initially checking an overclock setting, voltage and temp readings will be all over the place. After you find your overclock settings, turn them back on. Or not.

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post #38 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 03:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by Redwoodz View Post
No doubt, I was meaning turn power-saving features off when initially checking an overclock setting, voltage and temp readings will be all over the place. After you find your overclock settings, turn them back on. Or not.
I could. In the midst of looking for some thermal pads for my motherboard. It looks like there's only 2 heatsinks on it, so I may as well replace both. Problem is, I don't really know what I'm looking for. I seen this roll of tape looking one, is that just a roll of thermal pads? Would it be a better idea to just get heatsinks for the RAM and just use those pads for the motherboard or are they too thin etc? It's a lot cheaper that way as it seems individual pads cost the same amount as a ram cover and 2 pads.

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post #39 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 04:36 PM
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Just a little FYI, if the heatsinks are getting very hot, it means they are probably doing a great job of extracting heat!


So maybe airflow and "dead pockets" of air are your only issue at the moment.


Its a frustrating thing, but once you nail it, you will be pretty happy
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post #40 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 05:48 PM - Thread Starter
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You seen my build. What do you recommend? All the fan spots are filled and short of doubling the fans by attaching 2 together on each slot, I don't see what else I can do.

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