Gigabyte GA-AX370-Gaming K7 Discussion

Testing out F25 now. Seems that the board now applies a slight offset of +0.050v to the vcore regardless of setting once you set it to manual overclock. LLC settings no longer seem to make a difference regarding voltage drop and adjustments, it seems to be on "high" all the time regardless. Redoing my main OC now. Other than that the bios seems fine with no apparent issues.

I haven't been here in a while, but I wanted to see if anyone could help me with this. I water cooled my X370 K7 about a month ago with EK's monoblock and everything has been fine. Suddenly, I was watching Star Trek Discovery tonight and my computer suddenly shut down. I tried to restart it after checking for leaks. There were none, and the computer wouldn't start. I now get an error code of 46 and there's nothing on Gigabyte's site or the manual about that error code. When it tries to post, it looks like it tries to go the RAM, but it stops and goes into a boot loop. Does anyone here have any clue what this could be? I'd hate to have to replace the board as I just finally have my system how I've wanted it.

Hmm, tried the bios switch and the other bios? Kinda seems the BIOS died or something?

That did the trick! Plus Rep! I thought I was going to have to buy a new processor or possibly a new board. Now I'll just have to keep in mind that I don't have a recovery BIOS chip anymore.

You should attempt to "fix" the other bios. Flash it to a fresh bios, but keep the backup you are currently using. Maybe it was just the bios that got corrupted and not the chip itself.

Okay, I'll give that a try. Probably not today, I have a lot to do. Thanks for the suggestion.

Definitely worth it since you'll have a working backup again, and not at all difficult.

Firstly, I'd strongly suggest you switch the system to single-bios mode if you've not already. It seems to solve all the strange "suddenly my system won't boot" and corrupt BIOS issues; keeping the buggy DualBIOS feature from breaking things when trying to do fancy automatic fail-over and re-flash stuff, by my guess.

From then on you just manually set the active BIOS using the BIOS selection switch. Boot up with your working BIOS, enter Q-Flash, then flip the BIOS selection switch right before executing the flash. I've successfully re-flashed my main and backup multiple times, as well as just using the selection switch to easily move between two versions for testing/comparison. I've also had zero issues with any "soft brick" or boot problems since moving to single-bios mode, when I did experience some before.

I'm giving you both a rep. I set it to single mode and I'm using the b-BIOS as my main. I tested the m-BIOS after reinstalling a fresh image on it and it's working again. I'll keep in single mode from now on. Here's a pic of what it looks like. I really like EK's new blocks, but Gigabyte's RTX 2080 OC isn't quite a founders edition. The RGB header is in the wrong place and the power plugs are upside down. I had to take some pliers and remove the plastic around the RGB header and bend the pins outward so they don't make contact with the block. I also had to cut a notch out of the backplate to get the power plugs to fit.

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A new bios is out, F30, will have a play this afternoon i guess

Update AGESA 0.0.7.2 for Athlon 200-series (Raven2) APU and further new CPU support
Improve USB compatibility
Note : Update AMD Chipset Driver 18.50.16.01 or later version before update this BIOS.
Note : Due to BIOS ROM size limited, no Bristol Ridge APU support.

Maybe the 128Mb/16MB size limit is a thing is they needed to remove Bristol Ridge APU to additional CPU's...