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post #5411 of 10418 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
I know it's hard to say, but how much extra cooling will I get by upgrading to a 360 cooler from my lowly ML240?
Too many variables. Case airflow. Room ambient temps. Thickness of 360mm radiator. Fan speed. WAG and probably 5° C. I saw the biggest difference in moving from a standard 27mm thick 360mm radiator to a 56mm thick 360mm radiator. Much more dissipation surface area plus less fin density allows slower fan speeds and less need for high static pressure fans. Less noise.

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post #5412 of 10418 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 07:56 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Keith Myers View Post
Too many variables. Case airflow. Room ambient temps. Thickness of 360mm radiator. Fan speed. WAG and probably 5° C. I saw the biggest difference in moving from a standard 27mm thick 360mm radiator to a 56mm thick 360mm radiator. Much more dissipation surface area plus less fin density allows slower fan speeds and less need for high static pressure fans. Less noise.
I figure he'd see roughly °5 or better going from an AIO to a full 360 loop. 1 component + OC= 2x120mm of cooling surface + 120mm of headroom. Of course it depends on whether the move is to another AIO or with a 360 or a custom loop.

My old HWL 360 Stealth II kept my chipsets @ ~°55 and my 1100T @ ~°45 24/7. Crosshair IV Formula platform.

I'm moving up in the world with CVIIHero WiFi, 1800x, current RX 480 8gb(under water) and 16gb GSkill RAM. Gonna drop a monoblock on it and tie everything up with acrylic tubing. Going to go with EK Rads. Two SE and one PE 360s. Nine EK 500-2200rpm Vardars to push the air through them should do the trick.

Which is complete overkill for this setup, but it's my extreme HAF932 build that I really want to finish before I move into a new OL-11 Dynamic. Always wanted a Lian-Li and this is the year for it. Pretty sure I will need a third SE however as I don't see the PE filling the vertical space in that case with 25mm of clearance to allow for top and bottom Radiators.

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post #5413 of 10418 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 08:01 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by Keith Myers View Post
Too many variables. Case airflow. Room ambient temps. Thickness of 360mm radiator. Fan speed. WAG and probably 5° C. I saw the biggest difference in moving from a standard 27mm thick 360mm radiator to a 56mm thick 360mm radiator. Much more dissipation surface area plus less fin density allows slower fan speeds and less need for high static pressure fans. Less noise.
I figure he'd see roughly °5 or better going from an AIO to a full 360 loop. 1 component + OC= 2x120mm of cooling surface + 120mm of headroom.

My old HWL 360 Stealth II kept my chipsets @ ~°55 and my 1100T @ ~°45 24/7. Crosshair IV Formula platform.

I'm moving up in the world with CVIIHero WiFi, 1800x, current RX 480 8gb(under water) and 16gb GSkill RAM. Gonna drop a monoblock on it and tie everything up with acrylic tubing. Going to go with EK Rads. Two SE and one PE 360s.

Which is complete overkill for this setup, but it's my extreme HAF932 build that I really want to finish before I move into a new OL-11 Dynamic. Always wanted a Lian-Li and this is the year for it. Pretty sure I will need a third SE however as I don't see the PE filling the vertical space in that case with 25mm of clearance to allow for top and bottom Radiators. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/kookoo.gif[/IMG] [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/blushsmiley.gif[/IMG]

~Ceadder [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif[/IMG]
If you want to drop temps for as little investment as possible then drop some LM on the IHS and see how it does. Probably will drop thermals better than a liquid cooler upgrade will...or do both.

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post #5414 of 10418 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 08:38 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by CJMitsuki View Post
If you want to drop temps for as little investment as possible then drop some LM on the IHS and see how it does. Probably will drop thermals better than a liquid cooler upgrade will...or do both.
Won't LM eat into the copper cold plate on an AIO? Won't a nickel plated plate be needed?

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post #5415 of 10418 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 08:40 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by nick name View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by CJMitsuki View Post
If you want to drop temps for as little investment as possible then drop some LM on the IHS and see how it does. Probably will drop thermals better than a liquid cooler upgrade will...or do both.
Won't LM eat into the copper cold plate on an AIO? Won't a nickel plated plate be needed?
No, Copper and Nickel are fine. Its Aluminum that will get destroyed by the Gallium. Ive had LM on mine for almost a year, ever since the 2700x released.

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post #5416 of 10418 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 09:23 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by CJMitsuki View Post
If you want to drop temps for as little investment as possible then drop some LM on the IHS and see how it does. Probably will drop thermals better than a liquid cooler upgrade will...or do both.
Interesting idea and EASY! I've never messed with LM before. Guess I need to experiment a little and learn a bit more on the topic.

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post #5417 of 10418 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 09:28 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by CJMitsuki View Post
No, Copper and Nickel are fine. Its Aluminum that will get destroyed by the Gallium. Ive had LM on mine for almost a year, ever since the 2700x released.
I thought that too, but recently saw someone post a horror story about their copper cold plate. They could have just been overreacting to the staining, however. I believe you can also expect some slight pitting, but folks say that is of negligible concern.

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post #5418 of 10418 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 09:44 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Keith Myers View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by CJMitsuki View Post
If you want to drop temps for as little investment as possible then drop some LM on the IHS and see how it does. Probably will drop thermals better than a liquid cooler upgrade will...or do both.
Interesting idea and EASY! I've never messed with LM before. Guess I need to experiment a little and learn a bit more on the topic.
The first time you do it, can be intimidating but proper preparation is all you need. On my GPUs I use hot glue on the SMDs that surround the die so the LM will never have a chance to touch the but clear nail polish works well too, or super glue. Although super glue will peel if the surface is smooth. I use the Gorilla Glue brand glue sticks and that stuff is really tough for hot glue. I dont put anything around the CPU IHS but its probably a good idea to use some nail polish. After all is applied I have a huge magnifying lens on an articulating arm attached to my desk that has a ring light on it and I use that to scan the board for any LM that may have strayed from the intended area but Im always careful so its never been a problem. Also, a syringe of the conductonaut is enough to do many applications as you only use a minute amount of the LM and spread it super thin. On my 2700x I noticed 10-15c drop in temps in IBT and about 10c drop on my GPU in Superposition benchmark on the extreme run that really works the gpu hard. The higher your temps are, the more beneficial the LM becomes and it is not ideal for temps below 8c as it starts to solidify and separate from the application surface. Although, I have ran it at -4c and it wasnt a problem but it will climb back to the melting point before dropping back to low temps so I assume it will cycle through being solid and liquid quickly. Im sure for most this isnt an issue though. All in all, for temps above 8c I wouldnt use anything else, nothing else comes close as the thermal conductivity is around 75 W/m•K and thermal pastes top out around 12 W/m•K.

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post #5419 of 10418 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 09:58 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by nick name View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by CJMitsuki View Post
No, Copper and Nickel are fine. Its Aluminum that will get destroyed by the Gallium. Ive had LM on mine for almost a year, ever since the 2700x released.
I thought that too, but recently saw someone post a horror story about their copper cold plate. They could have just been overreacting to the staining, however. I believe you can also expect some slight pitting, but folks say that is of negligible concern.
It will stain but it wont pit. What it seems to do is form a very thin alloy with the copper but its easily taken off with a copper scouring pad. After a year on my H115i there has been no pitting or wear whatsoever. Gamers Nexus has done multiple studies on LM and has even conducted a year long experiment where the LM wasnt touched for a year on their bench test rig so it was also heavily used and there was no visible wear or degradation in performance.

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post #5420 of 10418 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 10:13 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by CJMitsuki View Post
The first time you do it, can be intimidating but proper preparation is all you need. On my GPUs I use hot glue on the SMDs that surround the die so the LM will never have a chance to touch the but clear nail polish works well too, or super glue. Although super glue will peel if the surface is smooth. I use the Gorilla Glue brand glue sticks and that stuff is really tough for hot glue. I dont put anything around the CPU IHS but its probably a good idea to use some nail polish. After all is applied I have a huge magnifying lens on an articulating arm attached to my desk that has a ring light on it and I use that to scan the board for any LM that may have strayed from the intended area but Im always careful so its never been a problem. Also, a syringe of the conductonaut is enough to do many applications as you only use a minute amount of the LM and spread it super thin. On my 2700x I noticed 10-15c drop in temps in IBT and about 10c drop on my GPU in Superposition benchmark on the extreme run that really works the gpu hard. The higher your temps are, the more beneficial the LM becomes and it is not ideal for temps below 8c as it starts to solidify and separate from the application surface. Although, I have ran it at -4c and it wasnt a problem but it will climb back to the melting point before dropping back to low temps so I assume it will cycle through being solid and liquid quickly. Im sure for most this isnt an issue though. All in all, for temps above 8c I wouldnt use anything else, nothing else comes close as the thermal conductivity is around 75 W/m•K and thermal pastes top out around 12 W/m•K.
I assume you use a chiller, yes? °8c is pretty cool.

I don't yet have the intestinal fortitude to use LM or Conductonaut in between the IHS and Block in any of my loops. I will Lapp a CPU brand new out of the box though. Did it with my 955BE. I hadn't even benched it. Just dropped it right on the paper and offs came the Nickel. I have since learned to temper my patience. So far as I know that chip is still working. lol

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