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post #2291 of 2317 (permalink) Old 03-24-2020, 05:16 PM
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I am having an issue with Aura Sync. I can't seem to get all of my devices to work at the same time. I can get all but one component to work. So if my aRGB header works my video card stops working. If my video card starts working again the RAM will stop working. It seems like I am constantly fighting this and have never gotten them all to work at the same time. There is always one of my aRGB devices that refuses to work. Has anyone seen this issue? Is it a setting I need to change somewhere? It feels like there is not enough power to run everything so it cuts something to be within the power limit.
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post #2292 of 2317 (permalink) Old 03-25-2020, 12:26 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Warsteiner View Post
I am having an issue with Aura Sync. I can't seem to get all of my devices to work at the same time. I can get all but one component to work. So if my aRGB header works my video card stops working. If my video card starts working again the RAM will stop working. It seems like I am constantly fighting this and have never gotten them all to work at the same time. There is always one of my aRGB devices that refuses to work. Has anyone seen this issue? Is it a setting I need to change somewhere? It feels like there is not enough power to run everything so it cuts something to be within the power limit.
Yes, likely, you cannot exceed a certain amount of amperage on the strips (something like 3a) or in excess of 100 individually addressable LEDs. If you do so, you exceed the current limit the pins can provide. My case had a piece of paper that said dont use more than 5 led strips. Mine uses 4 + the rgb fans from my case and a pwm/rgb hub.

EDIT: hey Mac I flashed down too and havent had a failed post once, also my under voltage lockups in compiz (Linux WM) requiring reboots when the chip is on auto are gone, + its Shamino's beta 0017 driver so my latency is ~63ns

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Last edited by neurotix; 03-25-2020 at 12:29 AM.
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post #2293 of 2317 (permalink) Old 03-25-2020, 12:41 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by sakete View Post
Is there a way to force higher boost speeds without doing an all-core overclock? I don't like that at idle the temps are much higher when doing a manual OC, as a lot of the time the PC is just on not doing much and then it's just a waste of energy to be clocked so high.
Yes you can do this but need serious cooling.

Try this

In extreme Tweaker/core performance boost

set it to – Auto

In extreme Tweaker/precision boost overdrive

precision boost overdrive = auto
max cpu boost clock override = auto
platform throttle limit = auto
Set all 3 options to AUTO

In extreme Tweaker/digi+ power control
cpu load-line calibration set to = LEVEL 3
cpu current capability to 140%

In advanced/amd cbs/nbio common options/xfr enhancement/accepted
precision boost overdrive = auto
and precision boost overdrive = auto


now in
advanced/amd overclocking/amd overclocking/precision boost override
precision boost override set this to -advanced
PBO limits to manual
PPT limit =0
TDC limit =0
EDC limit =1 *
precision boost overdrive scalar - manual =10x
max cpu boost clock override =200mhz
and the thermal throttle to =200
save and restart.


* The above makes the chip boost to 4400Mhz in all core tasks, suitable for video, audio, rendering, etc workloads. Set edc = 8 and launch a benchmark. Play a game. Leave hwinfo64 up in the system tray and check and ypu should see the first 3 threads hitting 4625, 4575, 4550 mhz. Feed it voltage, up to 1.425v (or 1.435 even) seemed ideal for me to see those high clocks. At 1.35v or lower the electrical potential is not sufficient to gate the transistors to those high clocks. Leave power saving (C States) alone. Also, please disregard anything anyone tells you about using too high voltage etc. They dont know what they are doing.


edit: see here https://www.overclock.net/forum/11-a...l#post28284160

and here:

https://www.overclock.net/forum/13-a...741052?page=54

Credit to the guy who figured this out

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post #2294 of 2317 (permalink) Old 03-25-2020, 04:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by YugoSKS View Post
So, no more 8d codes? Any issues flashing back to 1001?

If this is the case I might just try reverting myself. I'm currently testing manual DRAM and voltage settings to see if DOCP was the cause of my 8d issues. My system runs very well so i am hesitant to make any drastic changes but this 8d code nonsense is driving me nuts!

I never had an 8d issue. I have noticed that this motherboard doesn't like 4 sticks of RAM or RAM that's not on the QVL. I noticed a lot of people testing stability with benchmarks and they aren't indicators of a stable system. Prime 95 for 24 hours is the only stability test that guarantees you 100% stability. Even before overclock stability testing, one should test their RAM to make sure their sticks aren't bad. A minimum of an hour testing is needed at around 98%. I noticed there are unneeded voltage changes on BIOSes above v1001 and different settings opened up. Maybe one of the BIOS Gurus could release a v1001 BIOS with the same settings unlocked as the latter BIOSes. I can not recommend any BIOS over v1001.

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post #2295 of 2317 (permalink) Old 03-25-2020, 12:24 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by neurotix View Post
Yes you can do this but need serious cooling.

Try this

In extreme Tweaker/core performance boost

set it to – Auto

In extreme Tweaker/precision boost overdrive

precision boost overdrive = auto
max cpu boost clock override = auto
platform throttle limit = auto
Set all 3 options to AUTO

In extreme Tweaker/digi+ power control
cpu load-line calibration set to = LEVEL 3
cpu current capability to 140%

In advanced/amd cbs/nbio common options/xfr enhancement/accepted
precision boost overdrive = auto
and precision boost overdrive = auto


now in
advanced/amd overclocking/amd overclocking/precision boost override
precision boost override set this to -advanced
PBO limits to manual
PPT limit =0
TDC limit =0
EDC limit =1 *
precision boost overdrive scalar - manual =10x
max cpu boost clock override =200mhz
and the thermal throttle to =200
save and restart.


* The above makes the chip boost to 4400Mhz in all core tasks, suitable for video, audio, rendering, etc workloads. Set edc = 8 and launch a benchmark. Play a game. Leave hwinfo64 up in the system tray and check and ypu should see the first 3 threads hitting 4625, 4575, 4550 mhz. Feed it voltage, up to 1.425v (or 1.435 even) seemed ideal for me to see those high clocks. At 1.35v or lower the electrical potential is not sufficient to gate the transistors to those high clocks. Leave power saving (C States) alone. Also, please disregard anything anyone tells you about using too high voltage etc. They dont know what they are doing.


edit: see here https://www.overclock.net/forum/11-a...l#post28284160

and here:

https://www.overclock.net/forum/13-a...741052?page=54

Credit to the guy who figured this out
Awesome tip, thanks!

Alright, I made those tweaks, but set EDC at 16 per a suggestion in the thread by that guy who figured it out, as that should help lower-load boosting as well. I've seen a max boost so far on two cores at 4,675mhz, 2 other cores at 4,650 and two others at 4,625, all on the same CCD. The other CCD saw a max boost of 4,475, which seems about right. During Cinebench R20 it only max boosted to 4,125 on all cores or so, but I did get a higher score than I was getting before.

I'll tweak with the EDC at lower settings to see if I can balance all-core boost on high-load vs low to medium loads.

You were saying put in a voltage up to 1.425 - 1.435? I still have that on auto for now.

Edit: leaving voltage on Auto. When I set it to 1.425 and had EDC at 1 or 8 or 16, it was severly downclocking the processor under load, as low as 800 MHz on all cores. I now have it at 8 and I'm getting boosts as high as 4.7Ghz on 1 core. And also got the highest Cinebench score yet with EDC at 8, at 7209. I think this will do, thanks for the tip!

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Last edited by sakete; 03-25-2020 at 02:11 PM.
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post #2296 of 2317 (permalink) Old 03-25-2020, 02:32 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by MacG32 View Post
I never had an 8d issue. I have noticed that this motherboard doesn't like 4 sticks of RAM or RAM that's not on the QVL. I noticed a lot of people testing stability with benchmarks and they aren't indicators of a stable system. Prime 95 for 24 hours is the only stability test that guarantees you 100% stability. Even before overclock stability testing, one should test their RAM to make sure their sticks aren't bad. A minimum of an hour testing is needed at around 98%. I noticed there are unneeded voltage changes on BIOSes above v1001 and different settings opened up. Maybe one of the BIOS Gurus could release a v1001 BIOS with the same settings unlocked as the latter BIOSes. I can not recommend any BIOS over v1001.
Hmm I was thinking of going to 1302 from 1105, now I'm thinking maybe I should go back to 1001. I don't see anything on the 1st page on how to do that. I seem to remember it was mentioned on the Asus page for 1105+ that you couldn't go back, but I remember there actually was a method just can't remember it now. Any idea?

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post #2297 of 2317 (permalink) Old 03-25-2020, 04:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by flyinion View Post
Hmm I was thinking of going to 1302 from 1105, now I'm thinking maybe I should go back to 1001. I don't see anything on the 1st page on how to do that. I seem to remember it was mentioned on the Asus page for 1105+ that you couldn't go back, but I remember there actually was a method just can't remember it now. Any idea?

https://www.asus.com/support/FAQ/1038568 This doesn't show the Flashback USB port, but it's circled and under the BIOS Button on the back of your computer. The BIOS Renamer from the BIOS file also needs used to rename the BIOS. Happy flashing.

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post #2298 of 2317 (permalink) Old 03-25-2020, 05:00 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by MacG32 View Post
https://www.asus.com/support/FAQ/1038568 This doesn't show the Flashback USB port, but it's circled and under the BIOS Button on the back of your computer. The BIOS Renamer from the BIOS file also needs used to rename the BIOS. Happy flashing.
Heres a better explanation..

1. Take bios file, rename to C8H.CAP (This will differ depending on board, but once you you renamer pay attention to what it names it and remember for the next time) https://www.computerbase.de/forum/th...#post-23306627 You're welcome

2. Copy to usb stick

3. Put stick in port outlined by white rectangle

4. Press and hold the arrow button on the top left in the back until it blinks blue

5. wait for light to turn off, turn system on, wait til it flashes LED controller and microcode

When done it will turn on. Remove flash stick.

Using this method, you can downgrade to any bios. Avoid flashing files that arent from ASUS servers.

Hopefully that explains it better for newer folks.

Also, sakete, if your cooling is really good then try manual CCX ratio oc (leave cpu voltage on Auto and change VRM settings to auto), and try 1.425v manual ratios of 46.25/46.00/43.00/42.50 youll crush Cinebench that way (Ive done 7800 on R20, but you want to be careful here, I can do 45.50/45.00/42.75/42.50 no issues, temps are 72C, the chip will actually idle lower this way too, mine often idles at 26C).

Hope all this is helpful

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Win10 X64 Pro 1903 (gaming only), stripped down, updates blocked, Firewalled.
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LG 34WN80C 34" 3440x1440 21:9 IPS, 300 nit, HDR
Keyboard
GMMK v2 104 key | Kailh Box Jades | HyperX PBT pudding (for now)
Keyboard
OCN Ducky DK1008 MX Blues
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Corsair K70 Lux red led/MX Reds
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Rosewill K85 RGB Kailh/Kaihua Blue switches
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Ducky One 2 RGB fullsize
Mouse
Redragon Chroma M710 RGB (Omron Switches)
Mousepad
Corsair Polaris RGB
Audio
Logitech G230 red
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Logitech Z2300 2.1 120w 8" sub, w/ 40w satellites
Other
Phanteks RGB 5050/Digital RGB strips
Other
Respawn Black/Gray Racing Chair
CPU
i5-7600k 5GHz 1.32v
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ASUS ROG Z270H Strix
GPU
Sapphire R9 380X Nitro 1200/1500mhz
RAM
G.skill Ripjaws4 DDR4-3000 CAS15
Hard Drive
Western Digital Caviar Blue 320gb
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 Evo 256gb
Power Supply
OCZ ModXStream Pro 500w
Cooling
Corsair H60/PK-3
Case
Thermaltake Core V71
Operating System
Win10 Home
Monitor
2x ASUS V236H 1080p
Keyboard
Corsair K70 Lux Blue LED Cherry MX Blue
Mouse
Cooler Master
Mouse
Thermaltake GAMMA
CPU
FX-8350 stock
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Crosshair V Formula
GPU
Sapphire R5 230
RAM
G.skill TridentX DDR3 2400mhz
Hard Drive
WD Caviar Blue
Optical Drive
Lite On DVD-RW
Power Supply
OCZ ModXStream Pro 500W
Cooling
Cooler Master TX3
Cooling
Corsair SP120 Exhaust
Case
Corsair C70
Operating System
Win7 Ultimate X64
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ASUS V236H 1080p 23"
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post #2299 of 2317 (permalink) Old 03-25-2020, 06:02 PM
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Location: USA
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Quote: Originally Posted by neurotix View Post

Also, sakete, if your cooling is really good then try manual CCX ratio oc (leave cpu voltage on Auto and change VRM settings to auto), and try 1.425v manual ratios of 46.25/46.00/43.00/42.50 youll crush Cinebench that way (Ive done 7800 on R20, but you want to be careful here, I can do 45.50/45.00/42.75/42.50 no issues, temps are 72C, the chip will actually idle lower this way too, mine often idles at 26C).

Hope all this is helpful
Yeah cooling is not my issue, running a custom loop with an Optimus block and 360 rad. I currently hit 70C when running R20 and scoring around 7200, with EDC = 8. As for using fixed core ratios, I don't like that the core speeds stay fixed (at least, according to HWInfo) and never clock down. So my idle temps stay quite a bit higher than when I have core speeds set to Auto. So not sure how you're getting idle temps of 26C, your ambient temps must be really low, or maybe you have a case with much better airflow than mine which can make a difference too. I'm using the Phanteks Enthoo 719 which while a great case to build in and flexible for water cooling setups, it doesn't have the best airflow out there.

My idle temps don't go below 36C.

Main
(17 items)
CPU
AMD Ryzen 9 3900X
Motherboard
Asus X570 ROG Crosshair VIII Formula
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EVGA GTX 980Ti SC+
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2x 16GB G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4-3600 C16
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Seasonic Prime PX-1000
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Optimus Foundation AM4
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HWLabs GTS 360 XFLOW
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Phanteks Enthoo 719/Luxe 2
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Acer XB270HU
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Logitech G502
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Motu M4
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post #2300 of 2317 (permalink) Old 03-25-2020, 09:18 PM
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Yeah its very cool and dry where I live now, and its in a finished downstairs area..

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(14 items)
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(12 items)
CPU
Ryzen 9 3900X @ 4.5GHz CCD0 1.375v VID OC, 4.2GHz CCD1- 1900Mhz fclk/uclk
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Crosshair VIII Hero BIOS 1201
GPU
EVGA GTX 1080ti FTW3 2025/5940MHz
GPU
EVGA GTX 1080ti FTW3 2025/5940MHz
GPU
EVGA RGB SLI HB Bridge
RAM
G.SKILL Flare X B-Die 3200 C14 @ 3800MHz C14-16-15-15-30-48 1T 1.475v GDM off
Hard Drive
Samsung 970 Evo 500GB m.2 2280 PCI-E NVMe SSD
Hard Drive
WD Black 2TB
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WD Blue 4TB
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WD Blue 6TB
Hard Drive
Samsung 840 Evo SATA 256GB
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COOLERMASTER V1000 (Seasonic 1000w 80+ Gold)
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Arctic Cooling Liquid Freezer II 38mm 360mm AIO
Cooling
Anidées AI-AUREOLA RGB fans x7
Cooling
Prolimatech PK-3 Nano 30g tube
Case
Anidées AI CRYSTAL AR3 RGB Midtower
Operating System
Debian Linux 10
Operating System
Win10 X64 Pro 1903 (gaming only), stripped down, updates blocked, Firewalled.
Monitor
LG 34WN80C 34" 3440x1440 21:9 IPS, 300 nit, HDR
Keyboard
GMMK v2 104 key | Kailh Box Jades | HyperX PBT pudding (for now)
Keyboard
OCN Ducky DK1008 MX Blues
Keyboard
Corsair K70 Lux red led/MX Reds
Keyboard
Rosewill K85 RGB Kailh/Kaihua Blue switches
Keyboard
Ducky One 2 RGB fullsize
Mouse
Redragon Chroma M710 RGB (Omron Switches)
Mousepad
Corsair Polaris RGB
Audio
Logitech G230 red
Audio
Logitech Z2300 2.1 120w 8" sub, w/ 40w satellites
Other
Phanteks RGB 5050/Digital RGB strips
Other
Respawn Black/Gray Racing Chair
CPU
i5-7600k 5GHz 1.32v
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Z270H Strix
GPU
Sapphire R9 380X Nitro 1200/1500mhz
RAM
G.skill Ripjaws4 DDR4-3000 CAS15
Hard Drive
Western Digital Caviar Blue 320gb
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 Evo 256gb
Power Supply
OCZ ModXStream Pro 500w
Cooling
Corsair H60/PK-3
Case
Thermaltake Core V71
Operating System
Win10 Home
Monitor
2x ASUS V236H 1080p
Keyboard
Corsair K70 Lux Blue LED Cherry MX Blue
Mouse
Cooler Master
Mouse
Thermaltake GAMMA
CPU
FX-8350 stock
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Crosshair V Formula
GPU
Sapphire R5 230
RAM
G.skill TridentX DDR3 2400mhz
Hard Drive
WD Caviar Blue
Optical Drive
Lite On DVD-RW
Power Supply
OCZ ModXStream Pro 500W
Cooling
Cooler Master TX3
Cooling
Corsair SP120 Exhaust
Case
Corsair C70
Operating System
Win7 Ultimate X64
Monitor
ASUS V236H 1080p 23"
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