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post #1 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-16-2019, 08:17 AM - Thread Starter
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AMD build advice

Never built an AMD system....

How does this look for a light 3D cad, code compiler, virtualization, gaming rig? I end up doing a bit of everything... I’m not a power user but I do want to future proof as much as I can. For example I’m still using the pc in my signature I built ten years ago...

I have a RX480 I will be using to start off with and probably upgrade down the road.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LmJxcq

///M
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post #2 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-16-2019, 08:30 AM
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I am building my first AMD PC in over 10 years as well and pretty much everything i bought for the build has been broken dead or had problems so let me share some of my recent experience

First off ditch the 3800x its not worth the extra over the 3700x its 2 FPS in games and you can overclock the 3700x to 3800x level or better yourself for free
CPU cooler is fine i picked the same but if you add a second Noctua NF-F12 fan you can get as much as 5c lower temps

Next ditch the Asus motherboard Asus boards has taken a nosedive in quality and i had two broken Asus C8H boards before i got fed up and picked Asrock X570 Taichi instead so pick anything else
Next replace the RAM with G Skill TridentZ Neo since they work better with Ryzen CPU´s or double check that the Ripjaws will work with your motherboard

Next upgrade the HDD´s to Red Pro or Ironwolf Pro´s the Red are not all that good and they are pretty slow as well i speak from experience here
SSD is good so keep that i have the 1,92 TB version myself

PSU is way overkíll its 3 times what the whole build will use under load and as little as a 550 watt can power your system with no problems
Pick a Fractal Design Ion+ 660 watt its far better than the RM and its around the same price

And last dont buy a DVD with Windows 10 for $100 its a waste of money and a ripoff when you can buy a legal digtal code online for as little as $10 in some places and its not illegal
Edit: almost forgot you will need to update the BIOS on a B450 motherboard before you can use a 3000 series CPU the board will NOT boot without the BIOS update first

Dumpster fire
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Seravee
(19 items)
CPU
Ryzen 3700x
Motherboard
Asrock x570 Taichi
GPU
MSI RTX 2070 Super Gaming X Trio
RAM
G Skill TridentZ
Hard Drive
Corsair Force MP510 1,92 TB
Hard Drive
Seagate IronWolf Pro ST14000NE0008
Hard Drive
Seagate Ironwolf ST12000VN0007
Hard Drive
Seagate IronWolf Pro ST12000NE0007
Hard Drive
WD Ultrastar DC HC530 14 TB
Hard Drive
Seagate IronWolf Pro ST16000NE000
Power Supply
Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium 750 watt
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S Chromax
Case
Phanteks Luxe 2
Operating System
Windows 10 Home 64 bit
Monitor
Asus PG279Q
Monitor
LG 55C8
Keyboard
Corsair Strafe RGB MK.2 with Cherry MX Silent
Mouse
Roccat Kone EMP
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HyperX Fury S XL
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Onkyo TX NR646
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RHA L1 Dacamp
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Last edited by shilka; 11-16-2019 at 09:33 AM.
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post #3 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-16-2019, 11:07 AM
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for motherboard go with a proven good motherboard in the B450 class, the MSI B450 Tomahawk is always highly recommended and can even handle the Ryzen 9 3950X in the future if you ever feel the need for more cores.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E1681314...-267-_-Product

Totally agree with Shilka in regards to the 3800x, it's not worth it, just save the money difference and get the 3700x.

For memory, Ryzen likes higher clocked Infinity Fabric for a nice performance boost so i would go with a 3600mhz memory kit which would put the Fabric clock at 1800mhz and still maintain a 1:1 ratio. Something like this kit: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/26r...6gx4m2b3600c18
You can also use this site to search for Samsung B-Die memory kits, which are generally high quality and play nice with Ryzen: https://benzhaomin.github.io/bdiefinder/

For the power supply it is true that the one you picked can be considered 'overkill' for your use but I'm on the 'Overkill PSU owner' camp. The higher the capacity of your psu versus what your system needs the less you stress the psu and the cooler and more efficient it can be. That being said for the money you are spending, 125$, there are better options to be had, even for less money. I would go with something high quality and with great warrranty (12 years) like this Seasonic Prime PSU: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078954H55...ogi&th=1&psc=1

It even costs a bit less. And let me repeat 12 year freaking warranty.

Did not see a Computer Case in your part list but if you still need one let me recommend the Fractal Design Meshify C. Great case, very easy to build on, good filters. Excellent buy all around.

Hope this helps!

Edit: like shilka mentioned above if getting a b450 motherboard bios will have to be updated. make sure the motherboard has a bios flashback feature or if you do not want the hassle simply get a x570. I will see if the Msi Tomahawk i recommended has that feature or not.

Edit2: Checked MSI website and they do list Bios Flashback feature for the Tomahawk. You do not need a cpu to flash bios; can be done with a usb stick with updated firmware and you will be good to go.


Last edited by CapitanPelusa; 11-16-2019 at 11:11 AM.
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post #4 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-16-2019, 06:40 PM
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I dont know if you have a budget, but even a 3600 would be a great performance upgrade for you. I love my 3700x though.

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Asus Laptop
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Nvidia GTX 660m 2gb
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post #5 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-16-2019, 08:34 PM
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https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hqZfPn

For the PSU, most single GPU builds won't be using more than 400W at stock. The unit you're using right now is on sale for a good price though ($110) so it's a "why not", but if you do happen to purchase a PSU when it's not on sale, I wouldn't discount the 450-550W units unless you:
1. plan on going HEDT down the road but want to keep your PSU
2. plan on getting a flagship CPU + GPU and want to apply heavy overclocks
3. have some insider information saying future CPUs and or GPUs will be more power hungry by a significant margin

Even a 3950X + Radeon VII setup pulls ~500W worst case at stock going by Anand's 3950X review and TPU's GPU power consumption charts.

https://www.anandtech.com/show/15043...with-pcie-40/2
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/e...-ultra/33.html

You probably won't be using a Radeon VII but it's the most power hungry card of this generation so everything else will have lower power draw. There's a good chance you'll be considering an NVIDIA GPU if your CAD program can take advantage of CUDA.

Current PSU designs are most efficient at the 40-60% load mark. If you really care about the efficiency for some reason and will be running your system under load 24x7, then a PSU with capacity equal to double your maximum load would be preferred. In the real world where your system is sitting idle most of the time, however, it'll be operating in a lower efficiency range so in the end it really doesn't matter.

As for the CPU cooler, you can go with a Scythe Fuma 2, Scythe Ninja 5, Thermalright MACHO, or Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 (careful on the height for this one) instead unless you really need the compactness of the NH-U12S. They're better performers and cost less. I'd also say the NH-U14S but I assume you went with the U12S Chromax just to avoid the brown fans (no Chromax version of the U14S).

The MSi B450 Tomahawk MAX is considered the second best B450 ATX board in terms of power delivery and can handle a 3900X or 3950X stock without any issues. The only "upgrade" would be the B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC which uses the same power delivery circuitry except adds on doublers for more current handling capability. I would consider the B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC if you really want Intel LAN over Realtek LAN or want the included Intel WLAN. If you were going to get a wi-fi card anyways, this is a really good deal actually since the cheapest Intel 9260 Wi-Fi cards with the M.2 to PCIe x1 adapter cost around $35 while the Gaming Pro Carbon AC only costs $15 more than the Tomahawk MAX. If you want to overclock a 3900X or 3950X, upgrade to one of the good $150-$165 X570 boards.

The MSi MAX boards come with Ryzen 3000 support out of the box although most B450 boards at this point in time should as well unless it's extremely old stock or their BIOS chips are too small and the vendor was too lazy to provide a BIOS with Ryzen 3000 support at the expense of Ryzen 1000 support or a less "pretty" BIOS UI. New stock of the B450 Gaming Pro Carbon should have support out of the box. If it doesn't, it has BIOS flashback (i.e. you can flash a BIOS without a CPU installed).

3600MHz RAM is a good choice for Zen 2 CPUs. Unlike other CPU architectures where we just meme memory overclocking, Zen CPUs have their Infinity Fabric (the die interconnect) clock tied to the memory clock so it's actually worth trying to max out this interconnect's clockspeed. The Zen 2 CPUs (Ryzen 3000) will usually have their infinity fabric clock max out at 1900MHz (3800MHz memory) on chips with a golden memory controller. Almost every chip should be able to handle 1800MHz (3600MHz memory).

Micron E-die kits are known to clock pretty high very consistently but their timings will usually be slightly looser than Samsung B-die kits. The 3000 or 3200 versions of the kit I added use the same ICs and both hover around $140-$155. Sometimes the 3000 kit is cheaper, sometimes the 3200 is cheaper, sometimes the grey or red or white color version is cheaper. It's a well documented kit and you can always just use the Ryzen DRAM calculator to get timings instead of having to manually experiment.

You could go B-die but last I checked, even the cheap good 2x16GB B-die kits cost $200+. The differences in timings are going to be unnoticeable unless you're constantly pushing memory heavy workloads where the extra 1-3% of memory bandwidth might be useful. Supposedly B-die is also a bit harder on Zen's memory controller than E-die (for reasons I don't know, but buildzoid and many other overclockers are saying the same thing) so it might be harder to get your desired speeds with B-die (3600-3800 isn't that high though so it shouldn't make a difference).


Also there isn't any difference between "Ryzen Ready" and "Intel Ready" RAM. RAM is RAM. The interface is an industry standard and it won't vary by platform. There might be some kits where the XMP profile has speed + timing combinations that work fine on Intel CPUs but not on Zen due to differences in the memory controllers. With those kits, you'll have to manually tune them to get better performance over the basic JEDEC settings.

For the SSD, I just choose whatever is cheapest among the Phison E12 + Toshiba BICS3/4 64/96L TLC drives at the time. There's a thread in the SSD subforum that has them all listed. The only difference between them is the amount of space they reserve for overprovisioning.

https://www.overclock.net/forum/355-...2-toshiba.html

Last edited by HybridCore; 11-17-2019 at 01:13 PM.
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post #6 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 08:19 AM - Thread Starter
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wow. a lot to unpack here...

Quote: Originally Posted by shilka View Post
I am building my first AMD PC in over 10 years as well and pretty much everything i bought for the build has been broken dead or had problems so let me share some of my recent experience

First off ditch the 3800x its not worth the extra over the 3700x its 2 FPS in games and you can overclock the 3700x to 3800x level or better yourself for free
CPU cooler is fine i picked the same but if you add a second Noctua NF-F12 fan you can get as much as 5c lower temps

Next ditch the Asus motherboard Asus boards has taken a nosedive in quality and i had two broken Asus C8H boards before i got fed up and picked Asrock X570 Taichi instead so pick anything else
Next replace the RAM with G Skill TridentZ Neo since they work better with Ryzen CPU´s or double check that the Ripjaws will work with your motherboard

Next upgrade the HDD´s to Red Pro or Ironwolf Pro´s the Red are not all that good and they are pretty slow as well i speak from experience here
SSD is good so keep that i have the 1,92 TB version myself

PSU is way overkíll its 3 times what the whole build will use under load and as little as a 550 watt can power your system with no problems
Pick a Fractal Design Ion+ 660 watt its far better than the RM and its around the same price

And last dont buy a DVD with Windows 10 for $100 its a waste of money and a ripoff when you can buy a legal digtal code online for as little as $10 in some places and its not illegal
Edit: almost forgot you will need to update the BIOS on a B450 motherboard before you can use a 3000 series CPU the board will NOT boot without the BIOS update first
How does the 3700x compare for productivity and other metrics not related to games? I do play some games, but my workload is much more spread across the gamut.

I want to go with the black noctua cooler - always been a fan (see what I did there?) of them, I will probably pick up another fan to add to it as well.

What does a X570 board give me over the B450s? From the AMD website it seemed like the X570 was for more PCIe lanes and using dual GFX setups, which I am not interested in. Reliability and quality are one thing... It is definitely hard to quantify, I'll take your opinion into consideration if I end up choosing another board.

Why do you say that G Skill works 'better' with Ryzen CPU's? Is this documented somewhere?

I forgot to mention the reds are for my existing PC which will be turned into a home server. I'll search around for the best deal on serer grade HDDs and pick up two.

As far as windows goes I don't mind spending the $100 for peace of mind and total legitimacy. I will try to upgrade my windows 7 box for free and get a key that way first, but if not I'll just buy a win 10 key.

Quote: Originally Posted by CapitanPelusa View Post
for motherboard go with a proven good motherboard in the B450 class, the MSI B450 Tomahawk is always highly recommended and can even handle the Ryzen 9 3950X in the future if you ever feel the need for more cores.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E1681314...-267-_-Product

Totally agree with Shilka in regards to the 3800x, it's not worth it, just save the money difference and get the 3700x.

For memory, Ryzen likes higher clocked Infinity Fabric for a nice performance boost so i would go with a 3600mhz memory kit which would put the Fabric clock at 1800mhz and still maintain a 1:1 ratio. Something like this kit: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/26r...6gx4m2b3600c18
You can also use this site to search for Samsung B-Die memory kits, which are generally high quality and play nice with Ryzen: https://benzhaomin.github.io/bdiefinder/

For the power supply it is true that the one you picked can be considered 'overkill' for your use but I'm on the 'Overkill PSU owner' camp. The higher the capacity of your psu versus what your system needs the less you stress the psu and the cooler and more efficient it can be. That being said for the money you are spending, 125$, there are better options to be had, even for less money. I would go with something high quality and with great warrranty (12 years) like this Seasonic Prime PSU: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078954H55...ogi&th=1&psc=1

It even costs a bit less. And let me repeat 12 year freaking warranty.

Did not see a Computer Case in your part list but if you still need one let me recommend the Fractal Design Meshify C. Great case, very easy to build on, good filters. Excellent buy all around.

Hope this helps!

Edit: like shilka mentioned above if getting a b450 motherboard bios will have to be updated. make sure the motherboard has a bios flashback feature or if you do not want the hassle simply get a x570. I will see if the Msi Tomahawk i recommended has that feature or not.

Edit2: Checked MSI website and they do list Bios Flashback feature for the Tomahawk. You do not need a cpu to flash bios; can be done with a usb stick with updated firmware and you will be good to go.
I was looking at the tomahawk. Are your feelings the same with ASUS? Not proven, and a decline in quality recently? I ask because I have been very pleased with my Asus board from 10 years ago...

What would be a step UP from the 3800x? For future proofing maybe I'll spend extra and get a better processor. Either way it seems like the 3800x is not the way to go...

I'll definitely do some searching with the RAM. Was hoping for a black set... but we'll see whats out there. I'd rather it perform well.

Yeah PSU's are always overkill aren't they? I picked a corsair unit because of their reputation, but seasonic is great as well. I'll do a little more searching and try to shave off a couple bucks. 12 year warranty is... wow.

I have a case I am going to use, I forget which it is. A friend had two shipped to him by accident and they let him keep the extra. If I can't get that one I'll take a look at the fractal. I've heard good things about them.

Quote: Originally Posted by HybridCore View Post
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hqZfPn

For the PSU, most single GPU builds won't be using more than 400W at stock. The unit you're using right now is on sale for a good price though ($110) so it's a "why not", but if you do happen to purchase a PSU when it's not on sale, I wouldn't discount the 450-550W units unless you:
1. plan on going HEDT down the road but want to keep your PSU
2. plan on getting a flagship CPU + GPU and want to apply heavy overclocks
3. have some insider information saying future CPUs and or GPUs will be more power hungry by a significant margin

Even a 3950X + Radeon VII setup pulls ~500W worst case at stock going by Anand's 3950X review and TPU's GPU power consumption charts.

https://www.anandtech.com/show/15043...with-pcie-40/2
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/e...-ultra/33.html

You probably won't be using a Radeon VII but it's the most power hungry card of this generation so everything else will have lower power draw. There's a good chance you'll be considering an NVIDIA GPU if your CAD program can take advantage of CUDA.

Current PSU designs seem to be most efficient at the 40-60% load mark. If you really care about the efficiency for some reason and will be running your system under load 24x7, then a PSU with capacity equal to double your maximum load would be preferred. In the real world where your system is sitting idle most of the time, however, it'll be operating in a lower efficiency range so in the end it really doesn't matter.

As for the CPU cooler, you can go with a Scythe Fuma 2, Scythe Ninja 5, Thermalright MACHO, or Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 (careful on the height for this one) instead unless you really need the compactness of the NH-U12S. They're better performers and cost less. I'd also say the NH-U14S but I assume you went with the U12S Chromax just to avoid the brown fans (no Chromax version of the U14S).

The MSi B450 Tomahawk MAX is considered the second best B450 ATX board in terms of power delivery and can handle even an overclocked 3950X without any issues. The only "upgrade" would be the B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC which uses the same power delivery circuitry except adds on doublers for more current handling capability. I would consider the B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC if you really want Intel LAN over Realtek LAN or want the included Intel WLAN. If you were going to get a wi-fi card anyways, this is a really good deal actually since the cheapest Intel 9260 Wi-Fi cards with the M.2 to PCIe x1 adapter cost around $35 while the Gaming Pro Carbon AC only costs $15 more than the Tomahawk MAX.

The MSi MAX boards come with Ryzen 3000 support out of the box although most B450 boards at this point in time should as well unless it's extremely old stock or their BIOS chips are too small and the vendor was too lazy to provide a BIOS with Ryzen 3000 support at the expense of Ryzen 1000 support or a less "pretty" BIOS UI. New stock of the B450 Gaming Pro Carbon should have support out of the box. If it doesn't, it has BIOS flashback (i.e. you can flash a BIOS without a CPU installed).

3600MHz RAM is a good choice for Zen 2 CPUs. Unlike other CPU architectures where we just meme memory overclocking, Zen CPUs have their Infinity Fabric (the die interconnect) clock tied to the memory clock so it's actually worth trying to max out this interconnect's clockspeed. The Zen 2 CPUs (Ryzen 3000) will usually have their infinity fabric clock max out at 1900MHz (3800MHz memory) on chips with a golden memory controller. Almost every chip should be able to handle 1800MHz (3600MHz memory).

Micron E-die kits are known to clock pretty high very consistently but their timings will usually be slightly looser than Samsung B-die kits. The 3000 or 3200 versions of the kit I added use the same ICs and both hover around $140-$155. Sometimes the 3000 kit is cheaper, sometimes the 3200 is cheaper, sometimes the grey or red or white color version is cheaper. It's a well documented kit and you can always just use the Ryzen DRAM calculator to get timings instead of having to manually experiment.

You could go B-die but last I checked, even the cheap good 2x16GB B-die kits cost $200+. The differences in timings are going to be unnoticeable unless you're constantly pushing memory heavy workloads where the extra 1-3% of memory bandwidth might be useful. Supposedly B-die is also a bit harder on Zen's memory controller than E-die (for reasons I don't know, but buildzoid and many other overclockers are saying the same thing) so it might be harder to get your desired speeds with B-die (3600-3800 isn't that high though so it shouldn't make a difference).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQ7HB4ouLTU

Also there isn't any difference between "Ryzen Ready" and "Intel Ready" RAM. RAM is RAM. The interface is an industry standard and it won't vary by platform. There might be some kits where the XMP profile has speed + timing combinations that work fine on Intel CPUs but not on Zen due to differences in the memory controllers. With those kits, you'll have to manually tune them to get better performance over the basic JEDEC settings.

For the SSD, I just choose whatever is cheapest among the Phison E12 + Toshiba BICS3/4 64/96L TLC drives at the time. There's a thread in the SSD subforum that has them all listed. The only difference between them is the amount of space they reserve for overprovisioning.

https://www.overclock.net/forum/355-...2-toshiba.html
I realize the PSU is overpowered. At these prices its not much of a concern. The extra headroom allows for any possible upgrades and might help keep it a bit quieter.

With the cooler, yeah I have always liked the noctuas and now with the black version I cant resist.

I'm leaning towards the tomahawk max, but still wondering what benefits I would get with a X570 chipset board. If I wanted to step up to a X570 with all of the features of the tomahawk max it seems like it would get pricey... and possibly for no real useful reason.

There is no way I would notice a 3% increase in RAM speeds. I'll look at the micron E-die kits, sounds like a good spot to start. You are saying I should get at LEAST 3600 memory, and possibly 3800?

I'll take a read through the SSD thread thanks.

--

Thanks everyone for the replies. Trying to get a solid list sorted out before black friday and just find the best deals I can that day and pull the trigger!

///M
First Build
(15 items)
10 Year Upgrade
(9 items)
CPU
Intel Core i7-870 Lynnfield
Motherboard
Asus P7P55D-E Pro
GPU
MSI RADEON RX480 8GB
RAM
G.Skill Ripjaws 2 x 8GB
Hard Drive
Crucial MX 300
Hard Drive
Western Digital Caviar Black SATA 6gb/s 7200rpm Drive
Optical Drive
LG Blu-Ray Drive
Power Supply
Corsair 650TX 650 Watt
Cooling
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
Case
Antec Three Hundred
Operating System
Windows 7 64-bit Home
Monitor
Dell U2417H
Monitor
Dell U2417H
Keyboard
Apple USB Keyboard
Mouse
Logitech M510
CPU
Ryzen 9 3900x
Motherboard
MSI B450 Tomahawk Max
GPU
RX480
RAM
Crucial Ballistix Sport LT
Hard Drive
Samsung 970 Evo Plus
Power Supply
Seasonic PRIME Ultra Titanium
Cooling
Be Quiet Dark Rock Pro 4
Case
NZXT 500
Operating System
Windows 10
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Last edited by dirty elf; 11-17-2019 at 08:23 AM.
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post #7 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 08:36 AM
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The 3800x is a 3700x with slightly higher clocks out of the box but its a waste of money its not all that much faster than the 3700x and you can overclock the 3700x for the same results or better for free so its a complete waste of money to buy a 3800x

If you want more cores grab a 3900x instead its 12 cores / 24 threads instead of 8 cores / 16 threads like the 3700X/3800x or wait for the 3950x which is 16 cores / 32 threads

As for X570 i did not tell you to buy X570 i told you dont buy Asus the quality has gotten much worse and i said B450 wont work with a 3000 series CPU without a BIOS update first
As for RAM i said the G Skill TridentZ Neo are more optimized to work with Ryzen than the Ripjaws where not that they would not work

And why do you want to be ripped off with a physical copy of Windows 10 when you can save a ton of money by buying a digtal key?

You do know that Windows 10 is free to download from the MS website right? here is the link
https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/soft...load/windows10

In reality you only pay $100 for the key you dont pay for the ISO thats free
You are not doing anything wrong or illegal by buying a digtal key but if you want to be ripped off you are free to do so

Here is a link to a site that sells keys for $15,60 and if you use the code JPD20 you get 20% off so its $12,48 for a key to Windows 10 Pro
https://www.urcdkey.com/microsoft-wi...l?currency=USD

Corsair by the way dont make any of the PSU´s they sell so you are not getting something Corsair made anyway and there are much better options than the RM
Edit: RAM faster than 3600 MHz by the way are more tricky to get working so i would not recommend going higher than 3600 MHz as it can actually become slower due to higher latency

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Last edited by shilka; 11-17-2019 at 09:04 AM.
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post #8 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 08:53 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by dirty elf View Post
I realize the PSU is overpowered. At these prices its not much of a concern. The extra headroom allows for any possible upgrades and might help keep it a bit quieter.

With the cooler, yeah I have always liked the noctuas and now with the black version I cant resist.

I'm leaning towards the tomahawk max, but still wondering what benefits I would get with a X570 chipset board. If I wanted to step up to a X570 with all of the features of the tomahawk max it seems like it would get pricey... and possibly for no real useful reason.

There is no way I would notice a 3% increase in RAM speeds. I'll look at the micron E-die kits, sounds like a good spot to start. You are saying I should get at LEAST 3600 memory, and possibly 3800?

I'll take a read through the SSD thread thanks.
Not sure how much quieter it'll keep the system because with 80 PLUS gold, you're still above ~85-86% even at the nonoptimal levels.

https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2017/...ower-supply/4/

Unless you're considering multi-gpu which you're not interested in (above 2 cards is dead and even 2 card support is flaky and disappearing unless we're talking about the enterprise cards used for very different workloads), I don't see a reason unless you're going to fit any of the 3 reasons I listed before. Again, not a big deal. The extra $20 or so at worst might just be worth the peace-of-mind. The PSU fan will get drowned out by everything else anyways unless it's a truly horrendous fan or very aggressive fan curve.

I'd take a look at the Scythe Fuma 2 or Ninja 5 at least since they're among the prettier CPU heatsinks and will be quieter at the same temps compared to the U12S due to their surface area and thermal mass advantage. Their mounting system is more or less identical to Noctua's as far as difficulty goes despite their larger size.

X570 is completely pointless as a chipset. First issue would be reliability since all of the X570 boards have a tiny fan to blow air over the chipset heatsink (except the X570 Aorus Extreme which costs $700). It's an extra moving part, i.e. another point of failure and we know from a lot of the really old motherboards that tiny fans on the motherboard will almost always be the first thing to break.

PCIe 4.0 is also useless unless you're going to get a PCIe 4.0 SSD but those are also insanely expensive for improvements you won't notice unless all you do is constantly strain your SSD. In everyday it's not even noticeable (it's already hard enough to notice the difference between SATA SSDs and PCIe 3.0 x4 SSDs in everyday use). The PCIe 4.0 SSDs are just coming out so there's bound to be better controllers that can take better advantage of the additional bandwidth PCIe 4.0 offers. At the moment, they all seem to require heatsinks so they don't throttle since they get quite toasty.

Pretty sure GPUs haven't even maxed out PCIe 3.0 x16 yet so you're paying for bandwidth you can't even use for anything except some rather expensive SSDs.

Yeah. Buy one of the Micron E-die kits on buildzoid's list and just overclock it to 3600-3800MHz. The Ryzen DRAM Calculator will give you all of the timings you need at different speeds so you don't have to spend the time to experiment on your own.

Last edited by HybridCore; 11-17-2019 at 09:15 AM.
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post #9 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 09:16 AM
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Buildzoid just released an AM4 motherboard roundup.


He briefly mentions why PCIe 4.0 is going to be pointless for probably the next couple of years since nothing can really take advantage of it.

Last edited by HybridCore; 11-17-2019 at 09:41 AM.
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post #10 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 10:15 AM - Thread Starter
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buildzoids list is below

Code:
2x16GB (Ryzen 3000, Daisy & ITX Z390, Ryzen 1/2)
Very fast B-die
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/c3QG3C/gskill-trident-z-rgb-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-4000-memory-f4-4000c19d-32gtzr

CHEAP good B-die
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JkJkcf/gskill-tridentz-series-32gb-2-x-16gb-ddr4-3200-memory-f4-3200c14d-32gtzsk

Probably CJR (fire and forget XMP speed)
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/w3FKHx/gskill-trident-z-neo-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3600-memory-f4-3600c16d-32gtznc

Rev EEEEEEEEEEEE 3200
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/MDYLrH/crucial-ballistix-sport-lt-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3200-memory-bls2k16g4d32aese    	

Rev EEEEEEEEEEEE 3000
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2M97YJ/crucial-ballistix-sport-lt-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3000-memory-bls2k16g4d30aesb
Do i want one of the EEEEEEEEEEEEEEE 3200 or 3000? So a crucial ballistix sport lt kit? The b die gskill stuff seems cheaper?

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