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Window AC Loop Chiller

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-07-2018, 09:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Window AC Loop Chiller

I am starting a project which I have wanted to do for years. The idea is to take a window AC unit, and dunk the condenser (cold radiator) in a cooler of water, then run the loop through the water. I have been keeping my eye on used window AC units for a while and this weekend one popped up in my neighborhood for $35.


10k BTU window AC with 1HP compressor


Time to rip and tear!! I had to disassemble most of it to free up the condenser.


There is only one tricky part to this whole project. The thermal sensor will stop the compressor from running 24/7, this is obviously bad since it needs to run constantly. Here is what I did to trick it:


-Find the thermal sensor, mine was right in front of the condenser
-My thermal sensor was a little devices called a thermistor, which changes resistance with temperature.
-I cut the thermistor, read the resistance at ambient and then warmed it up to 110f and read resistance again. The 55f ambient resistance was 11k ish and 110F resistance was 6.8k ohm.
-In place of the cut thermistor, I soldered on equivalent 6.8k of resistors to force the AC unit into thinking it is 110f degrees





Here is what it looks like after just 5 minutes running 24/7



That's all for now...next up I need to drop it in a bucket of water and run the loop through it. I am obviously going to need some anti-freeze of some sort and likely a submersible pump since the large reviver will be located under the bench rig.

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 08:58 AM
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Window AC Loop Chiller

Have you thought about insulating the Glycol supply and return lines to allow the system to run more continuously and balance out for the duration of use instead of cycling on and off? Not sure what your demand is for the unit, but extending the life of that compressor is always a great idea. seen from TubeMate Psiphon Test DPC Cheers..
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 09:17 AM - Thread Starter
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@matador86 That is good advice, I will certainly do this going forward.

My chiller project has been a bit of a struggle. The problem I am having is that the system is too powerful and freezes any solution I submerge the evap in. Currently, the solution is 4 gallons de-icer and 1 gallon water, and it still freezes over.

I am using one extremely powerful submersible pump for the cooling loop, and one lesser powerful submersible pump to move the coolant in the res. If I remove the smaller submersible pump, then the coolant freezes over extremely quickly.

Here you can see it frozen. Note: normally the fluid level is near the top of the evap, but that has no change on the freezing over effect.



Regardless of the problems, I am still able to achieve -10c water about 35 minutes after I turn on the AC. The overclocking results depend greatly on equipment and weather or not it scales with temp. With some modern gen CPU's like 8700k, the scaling from -10c water is about +150mhz

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-15-2018, 09:59 AM
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Consider using Mayhem XT-1 Nuke.
Mixture 60:40 (XT-1:water) for -50c. (R22 boils at -41c so should be fine)

£50 for 5ltr concentrate.

Also, make sure you have a good flow in the container with the evap. i would get a container that allows the evap to fit snug to sides and have a pump pushing coolant through from 1 side to ther other to ensure the fluid doesnt just sit on the evap.

The likely reason its icing up is just down to the refrigerent used, not necceserily the "power" of the AC itself. Modern AC's use r134a which has a higher boiling point of -26c which most anti freeze solution can handle. R22 on the other hand boils at -41c so your average antifreeze isnt going to cut it. For the purpose of building a sub zero chiller, R22 is what you want.


Last edited by SolarNova; 07-15-2018 at 10:09 AM.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-15-2018, 10:08 AM
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I have been using Prestone Red anticongelant antifreeze in my chiller, and it works great I have had my coolant down to -18C with no issues, I use a 60% antifreeze, 40% distilled water mix. have you considered getting this build into a chillbox?

https://www.overclock.net/forum/133-...lbox-club.html

it is a lot of work, but well worth the effort.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-15-2018, 10:20 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by toolmaker03 View Post
I have been using Prestone Red anticongelant antifreeze in my chiller, and it works great I have had my coolant down to -18C with no issues, I use a 60% antifreeze, 40% distilled water mix. have you considered getting this build into a chillbox?

https://www.overclock.net/forum/133-...lbox-club.html

it is a lot of work, but well worth the effort.
A sealed chillbox has always been something I've wanted to build as well. Not because I want a big box sitting in my house but because I feel like without one I'd be chasing condensation everywhere vs filling a box with argon. It's just too expensive for me lol.
OP, can't wait to see what you do. Good luck!

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 12:50 PM - Thread Starter
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I would like to update this thread for posterity sake. The chiller project turned out to be a great success after many rebuilds. There proved to be several critical aspects to making this work correctly. Firstly, I needed a massively overrated pump for the waterblock loop and also a smaller pump for water circulation. Second was the use of 100% windshield de-icer. 5 gallons of Prestone De-Icer However, by far, the most important aspect is that the evaporator was 100% submerged with all of the connection pipes submerged too.

With everything in place, I could turn on the AC unit and within 30 minutes I would have -35c coolant. This proved to be quite useful for benching. For most heat loads, the sustainable temperature of the coolant was about -30c.







My bench room (pre-child hahah)

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 02:09 PM
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Strong chiller! I've considered chillers in the past as they would be super useful for benching single (and multi) legacy GPUs with a bit of cold as well as phase on CPU, but no space for them. D:

Edit: is that an unpopulated Epower V PCB on the wall?

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