A little update and some more information on fitment of 272mm E-ATX in the Evolv ATX case. I didn't include pictures of my own RVE10 motherboard regarding the removal of the back plate, but I will post information about it in my build log once I create that. With the grommets for the motherboard tray removed, and some nice insulation work using electrical tape, you have a very tight, but still acceptable, fitment of the board and it's safe to use.
Going back to the rest of the build, here's some more pictures.
Getting near completion, need a few more fittings, the CPU, and the second GPU.
These next three pictures show the QDC set up I made for myself. I plan to use SLI, but, this configuration will allow me to quick connect to one, or two GPU's (two once their combined with a terminal bridge in the water cooling loop.) This way, when I inevitably swap GPU's, I can quickly remove two. I also gave myself slack to allow myself to by-pass the GPU's completely, and run the entire loop just for the CPU. This let's me test new GPU's when I get them on air, and then order water blocks once I confirm they're functional.
This set highlights how I mounted the top radiator to provide room for another 360mm in the front. It was still a little difficult to fit the front radiator in there with the top on all the way at the case rear.
First, you'll need mounting screws with a allen-head (like that come with EK's radiators). Secure in the radiator with the screws, but leave them loose. This way you can slide the radiator on the bracket with ease. Also, be careful, as you will scratch the paint on your rad if you aren't like I did.
As you can see, it was loose enough to slide the radiator to where will be the "back" side of the case. Make sure you put in screws in places that won't block you from moving backwards.
For this next step, you need to remove the top panel of the case. It's pretty self explanatory, with four screws, two in the front and two on the back. Just take note, as one side has longer screws than the other, and those are needed to secure the panel properly. Slide the radiator tray into the case, slide the radiator as far back in the case as you can, and use your allen key to tighten down the screws. This is why it's important, as some are blocked by the top panel of the case. The allen key allows you to still tighten them down once installed into the case.
At this point, you can also add some more screws to hold in the radiator for extra support, now that you don't need some removed to allow the radiator to slide on the bracket. You can now re-install the top panel for the case.
All said and done, the radiator should be touching the rear of the case, allowing fitment of front-mounted radiators. The specific two I used in mine are the EK SE 360 (360*26mm) on top, and an EK PE 360 (360*38mm) in the front.
A couple of random shots, showing my pump and how it's mounted, and my cables.
Originally Posted by PureBlackFire
you guys and your power supplies with spinning fans. got two builds, one just transferred into the InWin 303 (very impressive for a $90 case btw) and one in my Luxe. my psu filters are clean because the psu fans don't spin.
PureBlackFire, I have not forgotten you! I know I still owe you a picture of the 3.5" caddy and spacing below. It's kind of hard to give you a definite answer, as there are multiple way to mount it and give or take space away from one side or another.