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Need to replace this plug (exposed wires)

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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 11:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Need to replace this plug (exposed wires)

What you see in this picture is my front headphone and microphone plug for my 450D, it's labeled HD audio. I lost audio after replacing my cooler and started looking around and found some wires that somehow pulled themselves from the pin they're crimped to. For now I've shoved them back in and it works but I'd like to replace or repair this plug. The plug is two rows of five pins with one pin left out. The pin that's left out would be #4 if you counted left to right. It's just a cluster of pins, if I had the individual plastic covered crimps made for sliding over these pins I'd gladly put each on it's own little plug (like your power button and front LEDs), or I could replace the entire plug piece or even the entire cable if needed though I'd rather just attach a new plug.
If anyone knows the name of this piece or where to get one I'd be very grateful.
Sadly it can't just be soldered back together since the wires have pulled out from the crimped pin thing.
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Quote: Originally Posted by SpeedyVT
If you're not doing extreme things to parts for the sake of extreme things regardless of the part you're not a real overclocker.
Quote: Originally Posted by doyll View Post
The key is generally not which brands are good but which specific products are. Motherboards and GPUs are perfect examples of companies having everything from golden to garbage function/quality.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 12:37 PM
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Looks like your typical Dupont connector, same as here.

10 slots, 2 rows, 5 slots each row, correct? You might be better off just buying the assembled cable, if you'd like to avoid crimping and assembly. It's only US $9.99 at Corsair's site.



Last edited by iamjanco; 02-23-2019 at 12:41 PM.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 12:47 PM
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Bit of advice, never plug anything there; whatever your sound solution, draw straight from there and ignore the case's front audio headers.

More cable length is also a downside, but one of far lesser importance compared to what you're doing.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 12:51 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Aenra View Post
Bit of advice, never plug anything there; whatever your sound solution, draw straight from there and ignore the case's front audio headers.
Second that, first thing I do when I get a new case is removing the front panel audio cable.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 01:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by iamjanco View Post
Looks like your typical Dupont connector, same as here.

10 slots, 2 rows, 5 slots each row, correct? You might be better off just buying the assembled cable, if you'd like to avoid crimping and assembly. It's only US $9.99 at Corsair's site.
Thank you so much, I haden't even checked corsair yet becasue I figured I'd try to replace just this part. But for $10?! (no wonder it broke lol)
Thanks, glad the rep system is back
EDIT:
Is the connector one where you insert the wire and push through the slot to crimp it? I might do that, seems easier than replacing the whole front piece.


Quote: Originally Posted by Aenra View Post
Bit of advice, never plug anything there; whatever your sound solution, draw straight from there and ignore the case's front audio headers.

More cable length is also a downside, but one of far lesser importance compared to what you're doing.
Why? I use the front I/O fairly often. Daily even.

Quote: Originally Posted by SpeedyVT
If you're not doing extreme things to parts for the sake of extreme things regardless of the part you're not a real overclocker.
Quote: Originally Posted by doyll View Post
The key is generally not which brands are good but which specific products are. Motherboards and GPUs are perfect examples of companies having everything from golden to garbage function/quality.
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Last edited by white owl; 02-23-2019 at 01:16 PM.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 01:18 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by white owl View Post
Why? I use the front I/O fairly often. Daily even.
Degraded sound quality; you really want more, you'll need to google; you've already told me where you stand in terms of familiarity, but i've no idea of your patience, attention span, or level of interest at that. So i won't bore you to death
Honestly though, bad habit; just take my word for it and stop using it.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 01:25 PM
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Front audio is hit or miss. Some are fine, others sound like garbage. If his front panel audio sounds fine it's probably fine. Not sure why he'd stop using something he's happy with.

My Taichi front panel audio sounds great, my Z170-E sound like butt, and my Gigabyte Z97 UDH was genuinely unusable with how much noise and static it picked up.

I pretty much never use mine since I got a DAC for my headphones, though.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 01:28 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by white owl View Post
Is the connector one where you insert the wire and push through the slot to crimp it?

No, not really. Dupont terminals take some practice to crimp properly and while the right way to do that might be using the tool designed to do so, it can be done with the newest version of the the MDPC-X crimping tool.


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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 01:37 PM - Thread Starter
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I use my front audio becasue it has a stronger signal and sounds the same as the rear. Plus for some reason when I stream videos the rear might not output vocals, just sound effects and music. Doing a clean install soon and will omit the Nvidia audio driver as a possible suspect.
Level of interest/attention:
Audiophile who has to build my own 1/4 wave transmission lines because I hate the mass produced, high tuned ported boxes typical high end HT stuff makes you settle for. Bose loves their subs to peak at 55hz and roll way off before 30hz. Why high end HT still uses sealed and ported enclosures is beyond me. $500 for a $20 driver and a high tuned MDF cube lol. Others follow this same trend.

The difference in quality between my jacks must not be very large if any. Cable length makes for more resistance but with the tiny amounts of power going through them, it's less than negligible in this case or in most really. Audio cable length is only an issue if you're doing something crazy long, using wire that's too small or if you're using CCA. Typically some combination of those.


Quote: Originally Posted by iamjanco View Post
No, not really. Dupont terminals take some practice to crimp properly and while the right way to do that might be using the tool designed to do so, it can be done with the newest version of the the MDPC-X crimping tool.
Oh well. Thanks for the help.

Quote: Originally Posted by SpeedyVT
If you're not doing extreme things to parts for the sake of extreme things regardless of the part you're not a real overclocker.
Quote: Originally Posted by doyll View Post
The key is generally not which brands are good but which specific products are. Motherboards and GPUs are perfect examples of companies having everything from golden to garbage function/quality.
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Last edited by white owl; 02-23-2019 at 01:41 PM.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 10:53 PM
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if it still works fine, a bit of hot glue should keep it from popping out again

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