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post #5011 of 5057 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 02:11 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by 8564dan View Post
Anyone here own the pc-v3000?

I'm tempted to move my current build into the 0-11 Dynamic and my new build into a v3000 as I need at least 2 GPUs and I like the space.

The new ROG looks nice but from what I saw in those vids it's multiple vertically mounted GPUs potentially.
I posted mine a few pages back. The new rog is just a giant dynamic and honestly I have the original rog. It's a shame that a "v2" will be plastic and steel for the most part.
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post #5012 of 5057 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 04:51 AM
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I finally got the PCB removed after drilling out the two damaged screws. Appears they were that way from the factory as I also have a bolt on the lower left of the PCB with a screw in it that will not allow me to remove it, so I will have to drill it out too. Others it seems had no issues like this judging from the photos posted.

One question on the PCB USB ports, when you say it is glued to the PCB, are you referring to the cables connected to the USB ports where they plug in or the entire USB Port? I don't want to rip the USB ports out of the PCB when prying them off and need to verify what you are actually referring to. It appears the USB cable connects to the two USB headers and you would separate and pry off just the cables from the header by using a flat screwdriver as mentioned.
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post #5013 of 5057 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 05:16 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by HiTekJeff View Post
One question on the PCB USB ports, when you say it is glued to the PCB, are you referring to the cables connected to the USB ports where they plug in or the entire USB Port? I don't want to rip the USB ports out of the PCB when prying them off and need to verify what you are actually referring to. It appears the USB cable connects to the two USB headers and you would separate and pry off just the cables from the header by using a flat screwdriver as mentioned.
The USB 3.0 type A ports have a groove around them so they slot in place on the PCB. This is where adhesive has been used. You might get away with a flat head screwdriver but if it's really stuck on there like it was on mine, a hobby knife is more effective to cut through most of the adhesive.

Primary System Specs: Lian Li PC-O11 DX - ROG Maximus XI Formula - Watercooled Intel 9900k (4.9Ghz) - Watercooled RTX 2080 Ti FE - G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3200Mhz CL16 32GB - Corsair RM1000i PSU - Samsung 970 EVO 2TB NVME SSD

Secondary System Specs: Fractal Design Define S2 - ROG Maximus X Code - Watercooled Intel 8700k (5Ghz) - Watercooled Strix GTX 1080Ti OC - G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3200Mhz CL16 16GB - Seasonic X-1050W PSU - Intel 600P NVME SSD
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post #5014 of 5057 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 09:49 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Zammin View Post
The USB 3.0 type A ports have a groove around them so they slot in place on the PCB. This is where adhesive has been used. You might get away with a flat head screwdriver but if it's really stuck on there like it was on mine, a hobby knife is more effective to cut through most of the adhesive.
Yes, I can see that and thanks for the info. However, I still am not clear on if the entire USB port comes off the PCB and you rotate it then reattach or if just the USB cable comes off? I have banged up the PCB pretty much so hoping there isn't much there to hurt and I see the groove you around each port. But to me, it looks and feels like the entire port with the cable will come out of PCB and they look like a USB header cable only with the PCB not doing anything for them except holding it. In other words, if the USB ports come off the PCB, not just the cables, then it won't hurt and I can just attach the USB headers with a bit of glue in the other direction.

I've tried many passes with a hobby knife around the grove area on all sides and they are still on there. Never had such problems for something so simple that should only take 10 minutes, not hours.
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post #5015 of 5057 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 07:35 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by HiTekJeff View Post
Yes, I can see that and thanks for the info. However, I still am not clear on if the entire USB port comes off the PCB and you rotate it then reattach or if just the USB cable comes off? I have banged up the PCB pretty much so hoping there isn't much there to hurt and I see the groove you around each port. But to me, it looks and feels like the entire port with the cable will come out of PCB and they look like a USB header cable only with the PCB not doing anything for them except holding it. In other words, if the USB ports come off the PCB, not just the cables, then it won't hurt and I can just attach the USB headers with a bit of glue in the other direction.

I've tried many passes with a hobby knife around the grove area on all sides and they are still on there. Never had such problems for something so simple that should only take 10 minutes, not hours.
The ports and cables are not separate, the whole thing has to come off the PCB and be turned around. I had some trouble with it too but I just kept carefully cutting away at the adhesive on both sides and wiggling/twisting them until they came free.

Primary System Specs: Lian Li PC-O11 DX - ROG Maximus XI Formula - Watercooled Intel 9900k (4.9Ghz) - Watercooled RTX 2080 Ti FE - G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3200Mhz CL16 32GB - Corsair RM1000i PSU - Samsung 970 EVO 2TB NVME SSD

Secondary System Specs: Fractal Design Define S2 - ROG Maximus X Code - Watercooled Intel 8700k (5Ghz) - Watercooled Strix GTX 1080Ti OC - G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3200Mhz CL16 16GB - Seasonic X-1050W PSU - Intel 600P NVME SSD
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post #5016 of 5057 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 11:35 PM
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I finally got them off, it took a while as mine had to have some rubber cut away around 3 sides. It was not just glue because tiny bits of black rubber were stripping off and you had to cut that all away and get to the connector where it was held into the PCB. Anyway, after some time I got them turned around. I then added a bit of Super Glue in that area I cut away to hold each connector firmly in place.

One problem is the on/off power switch came off and I can't seem to get it back on to the PCB. I see where it goes and the button on the PCB works fine, but there doesn't seem to be a way to line them up or have it snap back on. I can make it work with a drop of Super Glue I believe but not sure. Did yours come off and how does it go back on?

Thanks for the tips.
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post #5017 of 5057 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 11:55 AM
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O11 Dynamic with 2 NF A20 (200mm)

This is my 2nd attempt at my O11 dual cpu build.

This time I put 2x Noctua NFA20 intake in the front. I used neoprene to pad the front frame of the chassis and the fans are pressed in to fit.

I put 3 slim 120 Noctuas underneath (also as intakes).

I changed the fan config on the side 360 radiator so both the top and side 360 radiators are now outlets.

I swapped the two fans I had previously on the VRMs for Noctua R80 redux.

So, 7 Noctuas, 6 Corsair ML fans and the PSU fan (a Delta).

I lapped the second Xeon (the first was already lapped) and lapped the CPU blocks and replaced the thermal compound with a thinner one. I also spread the TIM by working the blocks against the heat-spreaders gently until I could feel the surfaces contact.

I painted the gold heat sinks on the motherboard and the silver part on the two H150i pump blocks black.

It’s now almost silent under load. Very happy. Just need to make a filter to replace the front panel.
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post #5018 of 5057 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 07:37 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by heb1001 View Post
O11 Dynamic with 2 NF A20 (200mm)

This is my 2nd attempt at my O11 dual cpu build.

This time I put 2x Noctua NFA20 intake in the front. I used neoprene to pad the front frame of the chassis and the fans are pressed in to fit.

I put 3 slim 120 Noctuas underneath (also as intakes).

I changed the fan config on the side 360 radiator so both the top and side 360 radiators are now outlets.

I swapped the two fans I had previously on the VRMs for Noctua R80 redux.

So, 7 Noctuas, 6 Corsair ML fans and the PSU fan (a Delta).

I lapped the second Xeon (the first was already lapped) and lapped the CPU blocks and replaced the thermal compound with a thinner one. I also spread the TIM by working the blocks against the heat-spreaders gently until I could feel the surfaces contact.

I painted the gold heat sinks on the motherboard and the silver part on the two H150i pump blocks black.

It’s now almost silent under load. Very happy. Just need to make a filter to replace the front panel.
That's gotta be the most airflow in an O11 Dynamic I've ever seen haha. I'm actually digging those huge noctuas in the front. Are you going to make a custom grill to go over the top of them where the glass usually goes? Or just a DemciFlex style magnetic filter?

Primary System Specs: Lian Li PC-O11 DX - ROG Maximus XI Formula - Watercooled Intel 9900k (4.9Ghz) - Watercooled RTX 2080 Ti FE - G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3200Mhz CL16 32GB - Corsair RM1000i PSU - Samsung 970 EVO 2TB NVME SSD

Secondary System Specs: Fractal Design Define S2 - ROG Maximus X Code - Watercooled Intel 8700k (5Ghz) - Watercooled Strix GTX 1080Ti OC - G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3200Mhz CL16 16GB - Seasonic X-1050W PSU - Intel 600P NVME SSD
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post #5019 of 5057 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 11:06 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Zammin View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by heb1001 View Post
O11 Dynamic with 2 NF A20 (200mm)

This is my 2nd attempt at my O11 dual cpu build.

This time I put 2x Noctua NFA20 intake in the front. I used neoprene to pad the front frame of the chassis and the fans are pressed in to fit.

I put 3 slim 120 Noctuas underneath (also as intakes).

I changed the fan config on the side 360 radiator so both the top and side 360 radiators are now outlets.

I swapped the two fans I had previously on the VRMs for Noctua R80 redux.

So, 7 Noctuas, 6 Corsair ML fans and the PSU fan (a Delta).

I lapped the second Xeon (the first was already lapped) and lapped the CPU blocks and replaced the thermal compound with a thinner one. I also spread the TIM by working the blocks against the heat-spreaders gently until I could feel the surfaces contact.

I painted the gold heat sinks on the motherboard and the silver part on the two H150i pump blocks black.

It’s now almost silent under load. Very happy. Just need to make a filter to replace the front panel.
That's gotta be the most airflow in an O11 Dynamic I've ever seen haha. I'm actually digging those huge noctuas in the front. Are you going to make a custom grill to go over the top of them where the glass usually goes? Or just a DemciFlex style magnetic filter?
Not sure yet. I might make a frame and stretch some black material across like a loudspeaker cover (as in the photo but made to the correct size).
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post #5020 of 5057 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 06:35 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by heb1001 View Post
Not sure yet. I might make a frame and stretch some black material across like a loudspeaker cover (as in the photo but made to the correct size).
That would actually look really cool IMO. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

Primary System Specs: Lian Li PC-O11 DX - ROG Maximus XI Formula - Watercooled Intel 9900k (4.9Ghz) - Watercooled RTX 2080 Ti FE - G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3200Mhz CL16 32GB - Corsair RM1000i PSU - Samsung 970 EVO 2TB NVME SSD

Secondary System Specs: Fractal Design Define S2 - ROG Maximus X Code - Watercooled Intel 8700k (5Ghz) - Watercooled Strix GTX 1080Ti OC - G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3200Mhz CL16 16GB - Seasonic X-1050W PSU - Intel 600P NVME SSD
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