[Official] Case Labs Owners Club - Page 2340 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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post #23391 of 23449 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 05:41 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by skupples View Post
The entho elite was $1400?????
Yes that's what he told me, he got it at Canada Computers:

https://www.canadacomputers.com/prod...item_id=104581

Its seems about that +Tax Wow!!

Funny I didn't even look until just now I only knew based on what he told me

Last edited by NewUser16; 04-14-2019 at 05:48 PM.
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post #23392 of 23449 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 05:57 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by jsutter71 View Post
Paint removal.
https://youtu.be/1XaoWgo0P60

The reason I have to repaint is because I have some holes to fill in. Thanks again Caselabs for closing shop after 40 years. Never thought I'd have to worry when I spent $800 on this case that I wouldn't be able to replace sections. Anyways I'm using a couple different products and afterwards requires sanding and painting. I learned a long time ago that paint over paint doesn't always turnout well. Initially I wasn't going to remove the factory paint but when I repainted the mid plate after fixing some holes I wasn't happy with the new paint job. When I started removing that paint the factory paint started coming off. Then it turned into this project.
Wow!!! you really mean business. I know how much you like your case, I have follow your updates/upgrades over the years so I hope that ultimately your project will come out exactly how you have envisioned.

I wish you the best of luck
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post #23393 of 23449 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 06:08 PM
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that thing looks about on-par with 900D build quality, maybe slightly higher... I'd buy something like Elite @ $500, but not the $1,000 USD its going for in the US. (after tax tag n title)

Either way - my next build is always the same build

The STH10 needs a true rebuild next time around. I noticed some screws have popped out along where the floor meets the motherboard wall, which has compromised integrity via allowing the case to flex.

that next rebuild will also include all new radiators(sticking to 120s until my 40 AP15s die!), QDCs, and finally splitting into dual loops. FOR THE LULZ, THAT'S WHY! get your math outta my face.


note - QD4s are YUUUUUUUUUUUUUGE... I'm still not sure how I'm gonna make them work w/ two GPUs. Shame really, I spent so much money on this chrome set & black set. I'll likely have to step down to one of the smaller scales. QD4s are so large that you need 3/8 thread adapters for the non-powder coated versions, and I wouldn't recommend the powder coat. It causes ease of mating issues.

Last edited by skupples; 04-14-2019 at 06:12 PM.
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post #23394 of 23449 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 06:36 PM
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Yahh I would say 900D it's on a cheaper side, overall its wobbly case, not sturdy at all but again there is a $400-$500 difference in price.

How long have you had your STH10, I'm always curious how others setups look but don't feel obligated
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post #23395 of 23449 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 06:51 PM
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I've had it for at least 5 years now, and it was second hand from an OCN user that I don't see active anymore. He sold it to buy his own LN2 tank.

It's just stuffed full of random stuff at the moment. two different 1080ti, two different blocks, n the cheapest possible 9700k+mobo+memory pack I could find over the holidays. I gutted out my x79 stuff & gifted it to someone in a nice little glass panel CM case. That + the disappointment in GPU progress resulted in me building my first used + baseline system in many moons. However, I do have 8tb of NVMe coming in, along with the ASUS 4 way pcie nvme addon card... However, once again i'm going base line via 4x 2tb intel 660p. 4 of those will blow my SATA SSD raid out of the water.

Last edited by skupples; 04-14-2019 at 06:54 PM.
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post #23396 of 23449 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 12:48 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by jsutter71 View Post
Paint removal.
https://youtu.be/1XaoWgo0P60

The reason I have to repaint is because I have some holes to fill in. Thanks again Caselabs for closing shop after 40 years. Never thought I'd have to worry when I spent $800 on this case that I wouldn't be able to replace sections. Anyways I'm using a couple different products and afterwards requires sanding and painting. I learned a long time ago that paint over paint doesn't always turnout well. Initially I wasn't going to remove the factory paint but when I repainted the mid plate after fixing some holes I wasn't happy with the new paint job. When I started removing that paint the factory paint started coming off. Then it turned into this project.
That case deserves to be "Powder Coated" not spray painted! Using automotive paint is much better than spray painting, but you still can't beat the tough and hard finish of Powder Coating.

You have already done half of the work. When I got my THW10 custom Powder Coated the guy told me that half of the cost was in stripping the old coating off!

Check out the Prismatic Powders site and click on the "Find Applicator" button to find an applicator near you.

I used Illusion Red with Clear Vision Top Coat. The color goes on first and then the clear coat goes over that. Pick a few of the colors you like, call them and they will send you free samples




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post #23397 of 23449 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 04:28 PM
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I have to say, that red is absolutely astonishing and I mean it.
How durable is it compare to the org. powder coating?
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post #23398 of 23449 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 06:25 AM
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That paint job does look pretty cool. I might have to do that to my SM5 eventually.

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post #23399 of 23449 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 07:01 AM
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Although I love to see great pant job mods and the above is good example, and as I said its a truly gorges and In some ways I even envy that, but personally I don't know if I would do it, unless I'm force to.
I like the Caselabs org. black powder coating, it's fairly durable and even thou I am very careful and I don't move my case at all, it's too darn heavy, probably around 130-150lbs if not more, I am fairly strong older dude, yet I'm still having serious problem lifting it. I like to preserve the org. paint and don't matter how good custom paint might be, its much more prone to get damage..but that's just me

Last edited by NewUser16; 04-16-2019 at 07:07 AM.
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post #23400 of 23449 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 10:58 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by NewUser16 View Post
I have to say, that red is absolutely astonishing and I mean it.
How durable is it compare to the org. powder coating?
Thank you... it is even more amazing in person! It's very hard to capture the metallic in a photo.

As for the durability, I would say that it's at least as durable as the original powder coating probably actually more durable. When I was planning exactly where to mount the reservoirs just holding them up on the center wall of the case slightly scuffed the surface of the factory Gunmetal finish.

Also the clear coating that goes over the color makes it a tougher, more scratch resistance finish than a single coat of powder coating. When the guy that did my powder coating explained that to me I changed my color selection to what I used.


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