Welcome to Lutro0's Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions
This FAQ is always being updated and is a work in progress, if there is something that you want to see on here please feel free to comment and I will add it.
To start off I get asked where to buy all of the connectors and supplies in the same place. There is a few stores that I know that carry EVERYTHING in one place:
MAINFrame Customs, LLC
How Much Sleeving Should I Buy For My Sleeving Job?
The best and really only way is to measure them yourself or look at the datasheet for your psu. This can be found on the website for the manufacturer of your psu or a review site as well.
Now you just have to look at the cable length and then add them up....
Let’s say you have a 24pin cable and the datasheet says it is 520mm long, so:
24x520mm = 12,480 millimeters = 12.48 meters
So for just the 24pin you will need 12.48 meters of sleeving.
And then you continue to do the same for the eps, sata, molex, and pcie cables. (not to mention any other things/cables you want sleeved)
Once you have everything added up you will want to add 10-20% more sleeve to it just in case you mess something up or perhaps forget about something.
How Much Heatshrink Should I Buy For My Sleeving Job?
So you add up all of the wires of your cables/things that you will be sleeving.
I.E. a 24pin cable has 24 pins. So you will need 48 cuts of HS for just the 24pin.
I always add 50-100 more pieces no matter what so you don’t have to settle for a messed up look, even more so if this is your first time sleeving.
If you are using tubing that is not pre-cut
, I believe the rule of thumb is to find out how much 20% of your total order of sleeving will be and order that amount in HS.
But again I would choose to try and do the math
, for example is you are using 15mm cuts of HS, you would need 30mm of hs per wire
, and if you are using 20mm cuts you would need 40mm per wire and so on. Remember to add the equivalent of 50 to 100 extra pieces so you can get a little extra.
If you are using heatshrink for the heatshrinkless method for PET type sleeve then a 4ft length can provide up to 100 or more usable pieces to use that method. They dont need to be even or perfect as you are cutting them up anyhow.
What Color Scheme Should I Use For My Sleeving?
- What colors should I pick
This question is also asked all the time, but as with anything having to do with a creative item its very much personal preference.
To break this down I will explain a rule of thumb that I have been following for a while now when I get asked this question, again its not the end all for color choosing but if you follow it - you will have a very well thought out color scheme that will not look ugly.
There is 3 main color styles and one exception.
1. Single Color Schemes
- This will be the most common as most premade extensions can be found in one color. The most common being black and white - but there is tons of other choices as well. The main downfall with a single color choice is that they seem lacking and while they do blend most custom sleevers tend to lean towards the next two methods as it shows the craftsmanship that goes into sleeving in the first place.
2. Double Color Schemes
- This is one of the most prominent color styling and is implemented most of the time in a simple manner:
a. Base color - The base color for the double color scheme will always be the main color of the case or a main color of internal parts.
b. Accent color - The accent color for a double color scheme will be the "popping" color or the color that is sparse in the case but the modder wants to make it pop and bring attention to it. When done tastefully this will bring out the latent colors in your case and give a flow feeling.
3. Triple Color Schemes
- This is one of the most beautiful color schemes in my opinion but this depends on if your case has the colors for it, but when the triple color scheme is done right it will make your cables and system look perfect.
a. Base Color - The base color for the triple color scheme will always be the main color of the case or a main color of internal parts.
b. Mid Color - The mid color for the triple color scheme will be the in between color that is not too little to be a accent and not to much to be a base. Great Mid colors are grays and whites.
c. Accent Color - The accent color for a triple color scheme will be the "popping" color or the color that is sparse in the case but the modder wants to make it pop and bring attention to it. When done tastefully this will bring out the latent colors in your case and give a flow feeling.
4. The Exception to the rule: Quad Color Schemes
- This scheme in my opinion is cluttered however I have seen it implemented with some success. However be warned that it is hard to match the rest of your cables should you choose this scheme.
The quad color scheme is just like the triple color scheme with the exception that it either has two mid colors or two accent colors. The reason this is not a good idea is that you only have 12 rows of cables on a 24pin and to get a clean and defined pattern takes alot of work and even then does not look as clean as a triple color.
However do not let me deter you from being creative as depending on the theme and mod it can be pulled off.
Things to think about
- Some things to ponder upon when thinking of your color schemes should be what you plan to do with your 8pins and 6pins as well as your 4pin cables and how your color scheme will affect them and the final result.
Another thing to think about is that you don't necessarily need to match the exact color in your case for your sleeving to blend, as once you take a step back the colors will start to match under low lighting and sometimes will even bring attraction to your cables and hard work.
And on a final note, If you plan to flood your case with a colored light - you may want to think about sticking to a black and white theme or a black and gray and even a single color. The reason for this is once you flood your beautiful sleeving with colored light it discolors it and even turns it into a redscale or bluescale and so on depending on what light you are flooding it with. My recommendation to those that are taking the time to match everything and sleeve it in a perfectly color coded fashion is that they should stick to a humble glow of pure white inside of their case, this way all of the color and work in all of its glory is displayed the way it was meant to be.
What Different Kinds Of Sleeveing Is There & Whats Worth Buying?
- What is all out there and what is the best?
This question is asked all the time, but it is a very subjective one. The reason for that being that everyone has a personal choice. So while I cant say which ones is the best I will say which ones is the most popular, and we will start with that one right off the bat.
Lutro0 Customs Teleios Sleeving
LC Teleios Sleeving is the product of tons of research into every single kind of sleeve that is available. It takes the very best attributes of those sleeves and puts it all into a 4mm and 8mm sata sized sleeve. LC Teleios is a newcomer into the sleeving world, however every single review that it has gotten has the reviewer ranking it above all of the rest.
It was made to be easy to use, uses vibrant colors that match your motherboard components, is woven in such a way to bring the densest and softest feeling sleeve out there, and it can cover almost any color of wire.
Newcomers to the sleeving scene that have used Teleios have produced awesome works of sleeve art without ever having sleeved before as the Teleios sleeve is made to be easily used in both heatshrinkless style and heatshrink style.
The color choices for Teleios are currently 11 vibrant solid colors and 2 unique mixed colors called the Fusion Line.
The sata sizes come in 11 vibrant colors and is made to have a very snug fit on any Sata Data cable. Its size of 8mm makes it a little more difficult to get onto the Sata Data cables, however once its on it covers almost all colors of cables and it grips tight to the cable to give you an unbelievably clean look.
Teleios can be found in the USA and in the UK at E22.Biz. Please note, however both sleeve shops sell worldwide with cheaper pricing then most shops out there. Both shops also sell basically everything you could ever need for your sleeving job with the best prices out there right now.
– MDPC Sleeve and products has been considered the quality choice in the sleeving industry and as such they have lived up to that name over and over. The owner Nils stops at nothing to hold his products to the highest standard and will never relent in upholding that standard.
The sleeving itself is the perfect size for single sleeving and has an awesome coverage of the wire, however if you are doing white sleeving you will need to prep your cables which will be covered later on in the FAQ.
The color choices are right on par with what you would want in your system. Also the Heat Shrink color choices are one of a kind and will outdo anything out there at this time.
Please remember that the only flaw with MDPC is that to get great coverage you need to stretch it VERY tight and most sleevers that start out find this to be difficult.
But I will stop blabbing and let you look for yourself, You can check out MDPC on their website located here: http://www.mdpc-x.com/
- Paracord sleeve is a very popular sleeving choice for those that are on a budget, however that does come at a price. Sleeving with paracord is just like sleeving with shoelaces and the material is nylon, and feels a bit like rope. Now if it is stretched right it will not feel floppy and work just fine, but you will have to take some extra time with it to make sure you get a good result.
The color choices of paracord are super abundant and you can find any color you want in at least a few shades.
Paracord comes in a few different sizes but the most popular sizes for sleeving will be 450lb paracord and 550lb paracord – the difference between the two is some extra strands in the middle of it (the core) and the 550lb being very slightly bigger. Both will work just fine for sleeving.
For finding paracord you simply need to do a search for “450 Paracord” or “550 Paracord”
Please caution that alot of paracord out there is cheaply made and looks like crud, so make sure to buy from a well known distributor.
It can also be found in an coreless style, but only one shop sells it.
CEANCUT (techflex cleancut)
– Techflex CleanCut sleeving has become a popular choice for sleeving because of its full coverage and its super cheap price from an E-Bay distributor, FurryLetters.
The main downfall of CleanCut is that it only comes in 2 colors, black and gray. The sleeving itself is a plastic type and is very flexible and works perfect for single sleeving.
Prices vary from seller to seller but like stated earlier most buy it from FurryLetters on E-Bay, The main link to his shop can be found here: http://stores.ebay.com/FURRYLETTERS
Mod/Smart Kobra HD (Primochill)
– Kobra HD is marketed as a high density plastic sleeving in different sizes, and to those terms it is exactly that. However the size used for single sleeving (1/8th) is just a bit too small and gets caught on the molex pins of a wire, which means you have to use tape or an tool to get it on the wire without it snagging on it. Another thing to be aware is the high cost, some places go up to .60 a foot. Kobra is indeed a decent alternative if you have alot of time and patience on your hands, but be aware that the coverage gets spotty on larger wires and your sleeving experience will be slow due to the material.
You can buy Kobra HD sleeving at both Frozencpu.com and Performance-pcs.com
Techflex Flexo PET
- Flexo comes in almost as many colors as paracord but this sleeving is mainly used in industrial environments to bundle large bundles of sleeve and has a terrible coverage so its best not used for sleeving - however its a cheap choice and was one of the first sleeves to be used to sleeve with.
You can buy Flexo sleeving at Frozencpu.com
- The Bitspower sleeving is still under review, but the initial use with it shows allot of the same flaws as Kobra HD when it comes to size, but the coverage of Bitspower sleeving is super dense which is the highlight of the sleeve. However, its size makes it hard to sleeve with and the over denseness of the sleeve makes the sleeve not stretch very much. This is important in a sleeve as you want it to conform to the wire. However, even with these downfalls its a viable sleeving material just not the first I would grab for.
Bitspower also makes a heatshrink tubing which has a nice thin wall, however the shrink has a low melting point which disappointingly leaves it kinda useless as you always want to melt the sleeve underneath a little and the shrink is very prone to melt and deform before the sleeve will melt before.
You can purchase Bitspower Sleeving at major online shops including Performance-pcs.com
- SM sells a sleeve that is just like MDPC but in different colors, the diameter is a but smaller but the quality is just the same, so I will not explain that more. The owner is also a great guy and does his best to provide top notch products.
They also sell heatshrink but right now the heatshrink is sub par and they are in the process of getting new stock.
is our Canadian modding shop to the north. The owner is a great person and does his best to strive to innovation and best products he can. his sleeve comes in many different colors and unique styles - he also offered a heatshrink that while its not the best will get most jobs done easily.
PC Modz Depot
- PCMZD is a great sleeve, everything about it is nice minus the coloring - the colors are an see through on some of them and just dont match some systems. Dont take my word for it give them a try the owner is an awesome fellow is ready to help out anyone he can. They also carry heatshrink but I have not at this time had a chance to try it.
- ShakMods sleeving is just like PCMZD in some different colors, the weave is the same and the same issues are with it. However Shak provides different heatshrink that is medium level heat shrink and will work for for your project. Also Shakmods has come out with a line of matte sleeving that is unique in the fact that the colors are slightly faded to give a eggshell finish. Many people are undecided on if they like the look or not as most people choose to have vibrant colors instead.
Some quick mentions for sleeve that I have not fully tested are as follows:
Big City Sleeving
- BCS is Otis Fats I have not gotten my hands on any so I have not done a review yet but its worth looking into.
FTW Sleeve Rignoobies Brand
- This sleeve is made by the popular Rig Noobies and is an up and coming company. Give them a chance you might be surprised.
- This is a new company overseas and they have come out with a sleeve series called their PHALANX SLEEVES. I have not had the chance to use their sleeve yet but I have some on the way to do a review on it. It comes in many colors and looks to be promising!
- ModDiy has been around for a while and are a great shop for just about anything sleeving and more. They carry a line called Deluxe High Density Weave and it comes in vaired sizes from 2mm to 16mm. They also carry the super hard to find connectors that honestly cannot be found anywhere else - however they know it and charge allot for them all the way up to over 2 dollars and the shipping is high at times. But they are a great shop for all your needs.
- CableMod is a supplier of OEM Cable sets for allot of different power supplies - at this point they dont sell sleeving by itself but they use a paracord like fabric that seems to work well. I have heard mixed results from the people who buy them but I have not had the chance to review one but I have one on its way so I will update this. Right now they are indeed the cheapest place to buy OEM sets in multiple colors for your psus so it wont be too bad to give them a try.
Ultimate Personal Computers
- UPC is a custom sleeving source as well as a sleeving supply shop - their main sleeving called Ageis Sleeving is new to the market and so far the comments are positive. I have not has any in my hands yet but when I do, I will update this section.
– There is a few other types of sleeving out there at this moment, but I have not added the due to their popularity not being very high and the price or quality being too high or too low. I will be adding the other types as I find some time.
What Kind And Size Of Heatshrink Do I Use?
– What kind of heatshrink and size should I buy?
This is another question that gets asked all the time. There is a few things you need to know about heatshrink to make a good choice.
1.Shrink Ratio – what this means is how many times smaller the shrink will get once it has been heated from its original size. The smaller the shrink gets the tighter the hold will be on the shrink and wire. So, the lowest shrink ratio you will want is 3:1, but the best ratio you cant get is 4:1.
2.Wall Thickness and Glue or no Glue. – Wall thickness refers to the actual thickness of the actual heatshrink it self or the actual materials size, again smaller is better with this as any added thickness to the shrink will make the shrunken diameter larger. So thin walled will be your best bet. I have also seen and used glue lined shrink myself, and although it seems like a great idea, it becomes messy and almost always has a thick wall on it, so right away it goes outside the parameters of what a good heatshrink should be.
3.Precut or not Precut – This is a personal choice but most pro sleevers will tell you right off the bat – get the precut and save yourself some time and allow yourself to get a clean look. It is not really cheaper to cut it yourself when you factor in how many time you may need to fix your sleeving. If you need some longer lengths then buy a small amount of it for the special parts.
4.Shrink Size and Length – For the most part the best diameter for shrink is either 3/16 in or ¼ in, this will allow you to get your shrink over most sleeve and wire combos if you have the right ratio. For length you will want to use what most pro sleevers use and that is 15mm, if you buy the precut most places already have it cut at that size.
With that all being said, what Heatshrink do I recommend?
I suggest you look at MDPC Heatshrink as it has everything we listed above as well as high melting point, what I mean by that is it will take a great amount of heat before the actual shrink melts. Also it comes in many color choices. It can be found at: http://www.mdpc-x.com/
Otherwise, I would suggest getting this ¼ in 3:1 thinwalled heatshrink
It has a cheap price and is a great product for heatshrinless methods. However if used right it may provide a great alternative for heatshrink style, it just depends on the wire you use.
What Sleeving Tools Will I Need For My Sleeving Job?
– What Sleeving Tools Will I Need For A Clean Looking Sleeving Job?
You will need at least some basic tools as well as some advanced depending on how much sleeving you are going to be doing. Now you can use staples and such, but I highly discourage this as it can be more of a hassle than it needs to be if you just buy the right tools and do it right the first time.
I have made an in-depth purchasing guide as well as a video break down of each tool and why it is important.
To view the video guide, please look at my Youtube Video on the subject located here - Please note that since this video I have found better tools for these jobs and I have updated them in the list but the basics are the same.:
Also here is the full purchase list of tools:
Basic "Must Have" Sleeving Tools
: Can be found most places - look for Precision Scissors.
Flush Side Cutter
Round Molex Remover
Molex Extraction Tool. Part Number : 11-03-0044
But can be found all over the web such as Frozencpu and Performance-PCs
Lutro0 Customs has designed a custom Molex Extraction Tool that is easier to use, stronger, and works on every single PSU with ease!
: Found at most stores this is used for numbering your cables if you use that method or if you dont buy a paracord threading tool to cover the pins when using Small diameter sleeving or paracord so it doesnt snag. Please note that many people do not like to use masking tape as you still damage the paracord even when you mask it right, and masking takes a very long time.
: Found at most stores. I prefer a bic lighter because its easier to control the flame and its not too hot. A torch lighter sounds like a good idea but it will insta melt the heatshrink.
: There is too many options to list, try Amazon, Ebay, or Froogle.
This heatgun may have some bad reviews but its been one that I have used for a long time with no issues and at the time of posting this it was 15 bucks.
You can find a heatgun anywhere but looks for a dual speed and one that comes with a reducer as small as you can get it - this will help you when you need to pin point your sleeving.
I have seen people have luck with embossing guns with reducers as well.
Paracord Tool Threader
: - This is only if you are using paracord, basically you use this or the masking tape but this tool will make your sleeving faster and frustrations less.
Exacto Hobby Knife
: Found at most stores - this is used to open most pins that the original molex tool and the round pin extractor dont - DO NOT GET SUCKED INTO THE ALL IN ONE KITS - as they all are poorly made. Get the right tools the first time and dont waste money.
LC Sleeving Tool
Can be found in many shops
This is only needed if you are going to do heatshrink style sleeving as it helps mark the perfect spot for the sleeve so you get straight heatshrinks the whole time.
Optional / Advanced Sleeving Tools
Overlap - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=1277
: This is the Hans Long Crimper and is found in most places that sell modding supplies - I suggest against getting this even though the price is tempting. But I go through this further later in the FAQ.
Bite - LC Crimper : This crimper is hand milled to perfection by me and tested and is the cheapest/best crimper before having to shell out 200 or more to get the original molex crimper. It is milled by hand to accept most guages of wire and even 16awg perfectly.
: This crimper also has the bite and will produce perfect crimps. The only issue I have heard with it is having poor performance on 16awg type wires and sometimes can crush the smaller fan terminals. But this is indeed a good crimper.
I will go over crimpers more later in the FAQ.
Self Adjusting Wire Stripper
Don't let the price get you discouraged - look at the link and check the examples and you will see why its important to have this tool. It is the cheapest for its design anything below rips the wire and anything higher does the same.
Heat Shrink Cutting Jig
: It is self explanatory, and can be made out of anything, just make sure your length is set to what you want.
Big Sharp Knife
: Found in most stores and this is for the jig only.
: Found in most hobby stores.
How Do I Sleeve?
To start this off Nils from MDPC has put together a nice visual guide on his method of sleeving that works well with MDPC & LC Teleios Sleeve. This guide was used with permission from the maker himself; please do not repost this without first getting permission.
And the second guide will be a link to my video sleeving guides, I am not posting them here as it is by far way too much information to repost, and you can keep up to date by following the thread itself. To see the guides please follow this link: https://www.overclock.net/t/1122053/...tool-tutorials
What Voltages Are The Different Wires On A PSU?
For the most part all power supplies follow a basic standard for the motherboard pin side, which means for a 24 pin that connects to the motherboard the pin out and voltages will always be the same. What does differ however is in what order they come out of the power supply itself as that is totally up to the manufacture on the layout. For the PSU side pin outs you will need to look on the makers website or request it from them by email or other means. Otherwise I have shown below a few basic pin out and voltages for a few different cables.
What Connector Types Do I Need And Where Do I Buy Them?
– I get this question all the time. Lutro0, where do you buy all of your connectors and what connector do I need for this or that? Well, I hope to answer all of that! I will list the most common connector names and post a link where you can purchase them.
24pin - Molex Power Connectors
8pin - Molex EPS Power Connectors
4pin - Molex EPS Power Connectors
6pin - Molex PCIE Power Connectors
8pin - Molex PCIE Power Connector
Sata - Power Connectors
4pin - Molex Power
[b]What Is The Difference Between Modular, Semi-Modular, And Non-Modular/[b]
– Modular, Semi-Modular or Non-Modular?
In this section I hope to break down the basics for choosing a PSU to sleeve and the advantages and disadvantages of each type.
1. Fully Modular
- A fully modular PSU is a PSU that has fully disconnecting cables. These are the number one choice for sleevers and modders as it makes cleaning up a computer easy and sleeving effective and easier.
: The advantages to this are clear - each cable can be removed and then sleeved and only the cables you want can be used. One thing to keep in mind is that the pinout (cable arrangement) is set by the PSU maker on the PSU side, what I mean by this is that all PSU makers use their own pin out on the end that plugs into the powersupply. For this reason cables cannot be switched from PSU to PSU unless it is the same PSU or PSU model family. (and sometimes even this is not true) Each PSU maker lists or will make available the pinout if asked or looked on their site. Also using a modular PSU gives you the ability to easily make custom length cables by making your own.
: You have an OEM pin out and most likely split wires that will need to be made into a Y split to get rid of double wires. Also you have two ends that will need to be cleaned up and sleeved perfect so attention to detail is a must.
- A Semi-Modular PSU is a PSU that has a both hardwired and cables that can be removed. Typically the hardwired cables are the 24pin and an 8pin eps.
: The advantages to this are not having to clean up both ends of the cable for the 24pin and 8pin eps. It also still allows you to remove the cables you will not use.
: Losing your warranty due to the limited options on sleeving methods. Takes a bit more work to get a clean result.
- A Non-Modular PSU is a PSU that has hardwired cables.
: The advantages to this are not having to clean up both ends of the cable for the 24pin and 8pin eps.
Disadvantages: Losing your warranty due to the limited options on sleeving methods. Takes a bit more work to get a clean result. Hard to work with huge bundle of wires and hard to route and clean up.
There is only two ways to sleeve a Non-Modular and Semi-Modular PSU.
How To Sleeve A Non-Modular And Semi-Modular PSU.
– How to sleeve a PSU that has hardwired cables?
It is relatively simple to sleeve a Non-Modular and Semi-Modular PSU. You only have two options to pick from:
a. Keep your warranty
- You will sleeve and shrink the cables up to the area where the cables enter the PSU and then use a larger piece of heatshrink to sleeve them all together. (a zip tie under the heatshrink is typically used to hold them in place) This allows you to keep your warranty (contact psu maker to make sure) but looks kinda ugly if you can see your powersupply through your window. Super glue is also helpfull for keeping the bunch in place.
b. Kill your warranty
- In this method you simply remove the cover to your PSU and then sleeve the cables up inside of the PSU so that the cables are heatshrunk inside of the psu cover and then using a zip tie on the inside of the PSu to secure them. Brush on super glue under the heatshrink and under the sleeve will keep them in place better, Also I suggest using adhesive lined heatshrink for use inside of the PSU.
This method is by far the best and will look professional and clean. Please be careful when working inside of a PSU as the capacitors will hold enough of a charge to shock the crud out of you. Also please note that you may need to widen the hole where the cables enter as once you sleeve them the bundle will be thicker. I suggest taping off the psu with painters tape and then cutting out the hole to keep shavings out of the PSU.
At this point you can also choose to mod the PSU Fan in the PSU with a different one. Their will be a proprioatry connector that can be removed and soldered back onto the fan. Please make sure to use a fan that is the same cfm or better for the psu and make sure that the fan works before putting it all back together so your PSU does not overheat.
You can terminate cables you will not use by unsoldering them inside the psu or simply cutting them and sealing the ends - but please only attempt this if you are sure of what you are doing.
Which Crimpers & Pins Do I Buy?
– What crimpers & pins to use and the reason why they are chosen.
To understand the following information you need to understand that not all crimpers are created equally. Molex has a chart in which it defines what is a good crimp and what is a bad crimp in its own standards - but from an experienced sleevers point of view there is only one good crimp, and that is the bite crimp.
The bite crimp is defined by crimping the end pins or the stress relief into the insulation essentially locking in the terminal a little more. Furthermore the definition of a good crimp is the tool being able to crimp the inside wings well, which is where the terminal will make most of its contact with the wire allowing flow of electricity.
Here is a small sample of tools that I have used a ton of time testing, this is just a small portion as there is no need to show you all of them. You will notice the markings on the tools, this will be used to reference the picture of the crimps that they can produce. The marks go from 0 - 7 marks. Most notably the 0 mark is the MDPC Crimping tool, and the 2 mark with LC before it is the LC ATX Ratchet Crimper.
So you see there is a ton of options when it comes to crimpers, the prices range from $20 - $80.
Now lets take a look at the crimps they can produce, please match them up to the marks on the crimper to the marks on the wire.
You will notice many flaws in the wires and that the wire gauge itself is a custom made 16AWG wire
To explain the crimps we will go down the list starting with the 0 mark.
0 Mark: This crimp is right on the mark. You will notice that it has a slight bite and does not crush the wire and the inner wings have a good hold on the actual metal of the wire - this is an example of a good crimp.
1 Mark: This is an example of a crushed stress relief section as well as its over lapping making it very sub par.
2 Mark: This crimp is also right on the mark. Everything you want from a clean crimp is shown on that crimp - this is also the LC ATX Ratchet Crimper.
3 Mark: This crimp not only has bitten so much into the connector but it has actually broke into the insulation and created a bump in the insulation. While this is a strong crimp it creates a mess to work with and degrades the quality and durability of the crimp. It has also crushed the wire wings weakening the overall crimp.
4 Mark: This is a pure example of a bad crimp - over lapping wings and a crushed wire insulation.
5 Mark: This crimp has so much force that it forced the stress relief wings out of order and totally crushed the insulation weakening the crimp point - I even have to straighten out the pin as it made a curve in it.
6 Mark: This is another example of an overlapping crimp with crushed insulation.
7 Mark: This crimper has so much force that it bulged the wire and the inside wire back while crushing the top.
So from these photos we can determine that Mark 0 and Mark 2 Have the best crimps!
But this is no surprise but I will let the photos explain.
These crimpers are both the same models but with different handles. I have contacted the company who makes them and asked them to make the crimp pressure just a tad bit less so that a thicker wire gauge could be used ( this is due to my custom line of sleeving wire that will improve cable management and training )and the slight variation can be seen in a side by side comparison of the crimps.
I will also say that if you live closer to Germany please consider getting the tool from MDPC-X, The store is owned by a wonderful man names Nils - he will go the extra mile to help you get the supplies you need.
You will see that the LC ATX Ratchet Crimper hugs and bites the wire just a tiny bit gentler. However in all honesty the difference is minimal and both tools would would all the well on the custom wire. However the price difference is what makes the LC ATX Ratchet Crimper all that much more sweeter.
So now that you see what the two available tools can do (the Han Long [HT-225D] tool is the same at both Performance PCs and FrozenCPU) lets talk a moment about pins before we continue.
Most terminals that are sold are non-OEM terminals , this means that a manufacturer other then Molex has made them and sold them to our online shops. The problem with this is that they decided it would be a good idea to make the wings that hold the wire smaller and then sell the longer winged pins as "double wire" pins.
Any experienced sleever will tell you that these terminals "shorter wings" are garbage as they don't allow the proper bite into the wire to hold and make a strong crimp.
So what we can take away from this is that only the original Molex brand terminals should be bought even if you are just using the hans long [HT-225D] crimper.
These are original Molex terminals . You will note that they have longer wings on them. These are important as it allows the crimp to have extra hold and contact to the wire.
Most non-molex or non-oem terminals have very short wings and are never recommended for your crimp jobs.
Here is the part number for those pins -a reel is a string of pins while a bag is pins not on a reel- :
Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Female terminals
- 39-00-0038 (Reel)
Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Female terminals
- 39-00-0039 (Bag)
Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Male terminals
- 39-00-0040 (Reel) (These are the pins used for making an extension)
Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Male terminals
- 39-00-0041 (Bag) (These are the pins used for making an extension)
From top to bottom: (MDPC Crimper, Hans Long Crimper [HT-225D], SN-28B Crimper)
And finally, here is a list of crimpers that should be considered for purchase:
Han Long [HT-225D] For a couple crimps or a small project (not recommended for a full set because of the way it crimps the "wings")
Note: these can be found at many different mod shops including, FrozenCPU, Performance-pcs and others.
SN-28B Crimper This crimper has potential, but even at the lowest setting crushes the wire too much for my personal liking. However there is different models (according to the color of the handle and apparently the date it was made) that seem to work better then the others with some adjustment to the "teeth". With those flaws and never knowing if you will get a tool that can be fixed to work I find IMO that this is a poor option although it does have potential to be a good crimper.
MDPC Crimper A great crimper at a higher price (this will produce perfect crimps all the time that will hold, also it comes with pins): http://de.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-crimping/mdpc-crimpzange.htm
Note: This is the german site and it is sold on the international site but his shop times are limited
Lutro0 Customs Crimper The same as the MDPC Crimper but at a lower price and is USA based.
Molex Brand Ratchet Crimper This may be the best tool as its made by Molex, but the price is way out of range for most people: http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/pro...FC-GB100000001
Can You Sleeve Sata Data Cables With Paracord?
– Is there a size of paracord that can be used to sleeve sata data cables?
Sadly the answer is no. Paracord generally tops out at 650, there may be some made that's larger but I have not ever found any. But not all is lost...
Bitfenix makes sleeved sata cables that will match as they are using a soft nylon type material that looks like paracord.
Here is an example:
What Are The Easiest Powersupplies to Sleeve?
– Lutro0 what powersupply model are the easiest to sleeve?
I cannot count how many times I get asked that question. Sadly there is not a perfect answer to it as the powersupply list is constantly changing. However there is two series and 1 or two powersupplies that I can most truly recommend.
But before I do that let me explain what constitutes a bad powersupply and why a powersupply would be better than others (in terms of sleeving).
When you sleeve a powersupply you want a fully modular powersupply, the reason for this is you can custom make your own cables and not have to open the powersupply and really make the cables fit into your case exactly how you want. This means not having a ton of extra cable behind your case to mess with and only using the number of cables you need to use.
Why then you ask would any fully modular powersupply be better then another. Two words: Double wires. Anyone who has had to sleeve a double wire will tell you that it is the most aggravating thing about sleeving. That’s because you have (should) splice the wire somewhere where it will be hidden so that you only have single wires going into the connector. Now some may try to stuff a double wire into those connectors but this is IMO poor form. When you stuff two wires into the connector beside otherwise single wires the fat double wire look out of place and you lose that symmetrical look of everything being uniform and looking neat. Besides the fact that it’s a pain in the butt to get the pin to latch and more than likely it will look bunched. Also when you eliminate the double wires you also get rid of the strange 8pin eps/24pin combos that some powersuppply makers use.
So the stuff that makes up a good powersupply to sleeve or in other words easier is a fully modular powersupply that does not have double wires (or very few) and has a relatively easy pinout and little to no caps/ferrite beads.
You may have heard of the term 1 to 1 or 1-1 powersupply. What this implies is that the cables go from one pin to another with no double on the other side. This is also a term for a extension-like pinout.
So whats a pin out? A pin out in powersupply terms is how the PSU maker electricaly designed the layout for the pins on the powersupply. PSU makers have proprietary set ups on the powersupply side and this is a reason we see all sorts of strange double wires, connectors and the sorts – because it is totally up to the PSU maker to make this how they think it should be and how it can make the PSU more stable. However, on the motherboard side it is always the same as they have to follow the 24pin ATX version 2.0 or the 20pin ATX Version 1.0 standard which is a 24/20 pin layout with the voltages and sense wires always the same. (While we are on this you may notice some powersupplies only using 23 pins with one missing, this is fine as it’s still the ATX standard and is not needed and a little Protip is that most of the time including a fake wire for this spot will clean it up and give you a full 24pin once again.)
Caps and ferrite beads are another huge pain for sleevers. PSU makers add these to keep in spec and to clean up and stabilize the power output from the PSU, in most cases with a good PSU these can be removed with little to no effect. But the chance that they will in extreme settings is always there. (Protip: Ferrite beads can be removed by either breaking them with a hammer or simply sliding them off)
Now that you have an understanding of what makes a good/easy powersupply to sleeve lets break down a few suggestions and why I recommend them.
Corsair AX 1200 / 1200I
Now I know you are already asking why not the rest of the AX series from Corsair. The reason for this is the Corsair AX line is basically a Seasonic PSU / One or two other makers rebranded for Corsair. This means they will follow the 20/10 or the likes pinout with mucho double wires. This means a advanced sleeving time with double wires.
However the AX1200 / 1200I is made differently, the 1200/1200i uses a 10/14 to 24pin as well as the rest of the cables being single with the exception of maybe a few. This makes it desirable for easy sleeving. Also to boot the unit itself is of good review and is otherwise pure black and ready for any theme with a covering of a custom sticker.
Corsair RM Series
The Corsair RM series has few double wires on the 24pin and no caps on anything. This to date looks to be one of the easiest Powersupplies to sleeve on the market. Plus the prices for these units are fair.
Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid Series ( 1050W, 1300W, 850W)
Once again these powersupplies are of good review and the color scheme is not intrusive for modding and the cables are a 24pin to 24pin as well as the others. Now you will notice some of the cables use the ribbon configuration, this is not a problem as you can simply tear apart the cables once you have started a small cut.
Silverstone Strider Gold, Plus, and Evolution Series
I could list all of them but there are many and there is a few in there that still have double wires, so I say this disclaimer that you look up photos of the powersupply and look at the pinout to get a positive double check that yours does not have double wires.
Typically if the Strider PSU you pick out has a few blue connector sockets on it, then it does not have double wires or very little.
Most of the Silverstone Striders have positive reviews and for those of us that have been sleeving for a while have done a few of these and are the staple for powersupplies that you intend to sleeve for a mod.
With the exception of the blue sockets this PSU is great for any color scheme when sleeving. They all use a 24pin to 24pin.
Something to keep a note of when sleeving these powersupplies is that the pcie lanes have capacitors on them which Silverstone added to reduce electrical noise and to keep the PSU in spec. However you can cut them off with neglitable effect to the power. Please keep in mind that you should make sure that you have some headroom if you intend to cut off the caps and plan on overclocking. What I mean by this is if your system will draw at max 850w then you should consider getting a model that is 150w or more, this way you are not pushing the PSU to its limits thus increasing the chances of your now cappless PSU from effecting your overclock. However I must add that I have been cutting off these caps for a long time now and have NEVER had a client with an overclock issue and I have had many hardcore overclockers buy cables from me or custom units.
To conclude there is other powersupplies that are out there that might be suitable for sleeving but these are what I have been recommending for a while now and new and experienced sleevers have been very happy with these choices. As more powersupplies come onto the market I will be adding them.
– Is there any sites dedicated to sleeving?
There is many that can be mentioned, however the one of the bests sites that are around are of course the one you are on right now. https://www.overclock.net/f/17973/cables-and-sleeving
However there has been a combination of international sleevers on Facebook that I suggest you poke your head into and gather information and meet other sleevers.
Please check it out here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/ComputerSleeving/
Also I am happy to announce that a Sub-Reddit has been made for specifically people who sleeve. Please check out the new channel here: http://www.reddit.com/r/PCSleeving/
How To Train Your Sleeved Cables?
– How do I train a sleeved cable to bend a certain way and look cleaner? Also, how do I get the same look as the cables that I see in your pictures?
I get asked the latter question all the time. If you have read through the FAQ you will know by now there is a huge different between an extension and OEM sleeving.
An extension by design simply extends the existing cable, this allow for a perfect 1-1 pinout that goes straight from one connector to the other. This allows for a perfect looking cable and is one of the reason my sleeved cables pictures look perfect and rainbow or “flow” exactly the way I want them.
OEM psu sleeving (sleeving the existing cables) however will be a harder task as you are at the mercy of the PSU maker and the pinout they have used. This can make training your cable very difficult. However read the following tips for producing a better result.
There are eight tips for achieving a good looking cable in terms of organization and training it to “flow” properly.
1. Tighten the sleeve as much as possible! This will work with plastic sleeve the best - but is still totally possible with paracord if you stretch it right. If you get the right stretch down and do it consistently – the full cable will hold its shape better.
2. As you are sleeving and putting the wires back into the connector, bend and train the cable as you finish each row. This will give you an upper hand when you end up training the whole cable. To train the cables - simply hold the row in your hand and do slight bends in the direction you want the cable to go all the way from the front of the cable to the back. If done properly it will make the final training of the full cable much easier.
3. Train, train, and train the finished cable, then come back and do it some more. Do this before you put it in the system and after. For example hold all the rows together and bend in the direction you have been training them by doing slight bends from the front to the back. Once the cable is in the system do the same thing until you get the desired result.
4. Zip-ties are your friends! If you get handy with some zip ties this will make it easier when its placed into the system - a few well-placed goes a long way. For example, a zip-tie behind the case on a 24pin will bundle the cable some and allow you to train it easier on the facing side.
5. Learning about wire lengths and how to use them to your advantage will help a long way into getting the cable to bend the way you want. This however takes time and trial and error. For example making one row slightly longer on the outer bend will give you some extra slack to bend the cable in the right direction. This however is mainly for extensions or pcie/ eps cables.
6. The wire you use will affect how easy it is to train the cable. Try different kinds until you find a stiff cable that is easy to sleeve. However always stick to 18awg or a custom 16awg, just look for different wire coatings. I would stay away from solid core as they are harder if not impossible to get a good crimp.
This is an example of the 16AWG wire made for hearshrinkless, you will notice that the diameter is smaller so that you will have an easy time sleeving but the thick wire will allow you to train your wires super easy.
7. If you are doing an OEM PSU you will have to train the parts that are seen and tuck away the other side. This is due to the OEM Pinouts. For example, use a zip tie to hide the twisting and double wires of a 24pin to the back of the case. Then train the exposed cables until the desired effect is achieved.
8. Make yourself a set of extensions to add onto your OEM sleeved cables. This is the perfect way to get your cables to look professional and get the look you always wanted. This will include making custom length OEM cables and then using the extensions to get the perfect bend. Its more work for sure, but for those that desire nothing less than perfect – this is the only way to go.
I will be honest however, training a cable is an art. It will take tons of trial and error and practice until you get it down. Even then sometimes with OEM sleeving (sleeving the original cables) the PSU makers pinout will make it very hard and sometimes almost impossible to get a perfect “flow”. But, with enough practice you can make it look pleasing.
Where To Buy Sleeving & Mod Supplies?
– Where do you buy all of your supplies & sleeving, and are they any good?
First of all I have to honestly say that now that I own a store that sells sleeving goods and services that I use my own products, however I am not about making money - but about getting the right person to the right store. Even if that means its not mine. That is why I give a list to where supplies can be bought and still do reviews to help out the other shops. There is more then enough room for everyone and if the client does not have to pay a ton in shipping then everyone wins.
I have gotten that question numerous times since I started sleeving. I have always planned to get ahold of all sleeving shops and have done so for a long time now. However, I for the most part have never done an actual video review on these items because for the most part there is not too much to go over.
But then came a time when these mod shops were starting to contact me to do a review on their products, and I now have about 10 different shops world wide with stuff in transit to my house. So thus, the Lutro0 Customs - Product Reviews Shop Series and Product Series was born.
I will continue to post my Review Videos on my YouTube Channel. I will also provide a list of most sleeve shops and cable providers.
Below is a list of makers, buyers, and solutions when it comes to sleeving.
Sleeve Product Providers List
Custom Pre-Sleeved Solutions:
Big City Sleeving -
Factory Made Pre-Sleeved Solutions:
Plastic Type Sleeving:
Furryletters (Techflex Cleancut)-
Big City Sleeving -
Kobra HD -
Paracord Type Sleeving:
A word of warning, many bargain type paracord even from reputable sites can be fuzzy or snaggled. The reason is that its not made for sleeving so they really dont look into the looks too much. Paracord can be bought anywhere.
Otherwise you can get lucky with some of the following shops - I find that rothco on amazon is normally a good source or shoprobbies.com
--- 10% discount modgroup10 code
How To Sleeve Sata Pass-Through or Crimp Style Power Connectors?
– What is the best way to sleeve a molex sata power connector?
There is tons of methods for what you are asking. The main reason I have not made a video for it is that reason alone. It is very difficult to get a clean look, and it can be very frustrating because it takes many tries to get it just right. Also there is allot of misinformation out there as well as bad looking jobs that dont explain what they did to get that look.
Please remember to practice on a spare one many times before you give this a try as it is nothing less than an art form to get it right.
Here are the following ways to sleeve a pass-through molex sata power connector.
-please note that none of the following pictures are my own or of my own work, they are used simply for reference and the credit is fully given to those that have made the photos and took the time to make them-
1. The small section of sleeving in-between method without heatshrink:
This method requires the absolute correct measurement of the sleeve in between the connectors. A common misconception is that you need heatshrink to hold onto it. The way I get around this is to make the sleeve go from one connector to the other with no gaps, but put a small amount of super glue underneath the sleeve to hold it into place - make sure that they are snug and under the little lip of the pass through connector. I do not have an example of this method on hand as the one I did was for a project for NVIDIA and I did not take any photos, but if you look at the following example it looks very similar.
A. Modified non-heatshrink:
This method will produce the same effect as method one, however you sleeve the full cable first and then cut away a small amount of sleeve to allow the wire to be pushed into the pass through molex terminal. This method will produce amazing results but its is VERY DIFFICULT to master. You will most likely waste tons of sleeve and wires before you get a perfect result. The following picture is one of the best executions of this method I have ever seen!
2. The small section of sleeving in-between method with heatshrink:
This method requires the absolute correct measurement of the sleeve and the heatshrink in between the connectors. A common misconception is that you need to make the sleeve shorter then the section to have the heatshrink hold onto it. But this only produces a bump that looks terrible. The way I get around this is to make the sleeve go from one connector to the other with no gaps, but put a small amount of super glue underneath the sleeve to hold it into place and then cut smaller sections of heatshrink to put over the ends to close up the end sections of the sleeve - make sure that they are snug and under the little lip of the pass through connector. Here is an example of this method, and one of the best executions of this method to a T.
Also here is an example of the method without bringing the sleeve right up to the connector, this is what I see most of the time and you can see how it throws off the look of the cable by having a little bump in between them:
3. Using colored wire method:
This is simple enough in the way that you use the first method to bring the sleeve up to the first connector but then leave the rest of the connectors with bare wire, but you use colored wire that matches your sleeve to leave a matching look. Here is an example of this method that is sold @ Mod-DIY:
4. Heatshrink the whole thing method:
This is also simple as you follow method one up to the first connector and then use colored heatshrink to give the matched look on the sections in-between your other connectors. Here is an example of this method, but remember that you can use colored heatshrink as well to make it match better:
5. Sleeve and heatshrink the whole bundle method:
As the name of the method states, you sleeve the whole bundle and shrink it in-between the connectors. I would recommend using a bit of super glue to hold it into place a bit better as well as holding the wires flat so they don't look like a round tube, this way you can get it to lay like a flat cable and give it a better look. Here is an example of such a method without laying the cables flat:
6. Use single crimp style connectors:
This is my favorite method as its the cleanest and best looking out of all of them, however it will depend on how many aux connectors your PSU has and how many sata powered devices you have.
But something to think about is that you can always make an 4pin Molex to crimped sata power connector if you need more sata connectors then your have aux connectors.
Simply put you use the crimp style sata power connectors and use one aux connector on your PSU per sata device, this way you are not compromising having to use the methods above and it provides the cleanest look of all. The downfall is having more sleeved cables to deal with and finding the room for them. Again its up to how many sata devices you have to use. Here is an example of what I mean, and you can see right away why this is my favorite as its the cleanest possible method:
A. Alternate daisy chain method both with heatshrink and without:
This method is if you have to have an extra device you can have the sleeved cables daisy chain off of one of the sata crimp connectors, what this would involve is having to crimp two wires to one crimp and be careful to insert it into one of the crimp sata connectors, this is very difficult to do and I would suggest a small diameter sleeve and a small diameter wires such as the UL1007 wire from amazon of other supplier. http://www.amazon.com/UL1007-Commercial-Copper-Bright-Diameter/dp/B003HGHPQ6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1355106964&sr=8-5&keywords=black+18awg
What makes that wire special is that it has a super small outer diameter and will give you the extra room you need to make a double wire into a single pin happen. But even then this takes much practice and patience to get a clean look. Here is a example of this method, while its not the cleanest example if done right with or without heatshrink it can be a saver if you don't have enough aux connectors on your PSU or have enough 4pin Molex power connectors to use - again this method does not bring the sleeve all the way up to the connector which is the cleanest method. Remember this can be done without heatshrink as well but the following photo does provide a good idea of what it looks like:
Heatshrinkless Or Heathshrink Methods?
– What does all of this mean?
This may be a basic question for most of us, but it can get a little confusing. Let me explain.
Heatshrink style sleeving
is using heatshrink to hold the sleeve onto the wire when single or multiple sleeveing. Here is an example:
Also here is two video guides on this method to give you a deeper insight:
You can see that the heatshrink is on each wire, also the best heatshrink method sleeving keeps it straight in a row with a clean transition into the connector.
Right now the best heatshrink you can use for this is from MDPC as it has a thin wall and is 4:1 and precision cut to be perfect. This in combo with the LC Sleeving Tool make the job easy. Remember though just because the HS is holding the wire you should still melt the sleeve under the heatshrink a little buy hovering the heatgun on it a little bit more then just what it takes to shrink the HS.
Heatshrinkless Style Sleeving
is a relatively new method. It was birthed in MDPC but Lutro0 Customs was the first to sell extensions in this method and from there the popularity grew immensely as it offered an easier way to sleeve for everyone and gives the wires a much stronger hold. Heatshrinkless is a confusing name as for PET sleeving you need to use heatshrink to use the method, but for paracord you do not.
Here is an example:
Also here is some video examples:
As said before you only need to use heatshrink for the heatshrinkless method if you are using plastic type or PET sleeving, this is because it will expand if it has nothing to hold it down, also it creates a sort of plastic weld to the wire that is super strong, and then you cut off the shrink. Paracord on the other hand is a nylon material and will not expand so you can lightly melt it and shape it with your fingers so heatshrink is not needed.
I hope that explains the methods betters so its not confusing.
What Wire Do I Buy For What Method?
– What wire is the best for which method?Click to Expand (Click to show)
I have been asked to put this on the faq for a while, but before I continue I want you to throw away all knowledge you have on sleeving wire basics and just trust my info as it has been tried and true on many many jobs.
Heatshrink Method Wire
Nils has given out a certain diameter range of the best wire for his crimper and sleeving. I agree with some of it but I have found throughout many many jobs that the smaller the diameter of the wire for the heatshrink method the better! Think about it, you are trying to put a wire, a peice of heatshrink, part of a crimp, and a little bit of sleeve (this is for looks) into a small square hole on a connector. Logic would dictate if you can reduce the size of the materials going in then the easier it would be.... right?
Thats why MDPC heatshrink is so awesome, it has a thin wall and makes it easier - also this is why its almost impossible to use heatshrink on stock 16awg cables, they are just too thick.
Here is a link to the perfect wire I have found in the usa for heatshrink style sleeving. :http://www.amazon.com/UL1007-Commercial-Copper-Bright-Diameter/dp/B003HGHPQ6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1355106964&sr=8-5&keywords=black+18awg
Now you dont need to buy it at amazon or the LC site, infact the UL1007 is a standard of wire and if you buy UL1007 18AWG wire from any distributor it should be the same thing.
The combination of the Outside Diameter of 0.0403 inches and the insulation material provides a great grip on the crimp and allows for super super easy heatshrink style sleeving. I have found no better wire then this.
The only con I have found is that it has some light writing on the cable, but this can be removed with any strong cleaner just maker sure to wipe it off right away so it doesnt eat the insulation. But honestly if you sleeve right you wont see it period. I always leave it on.
Heatshrinkless Method Wire
Being I was one of the first to market this style I have done tons of research into this wire. Infact after not being able to find an 16AWG wire (which has been a dream of mine for a while now - to be able to easily use a 16awg wire in sleeving) I went out and had wire custom made for heatshrinkless style and to help with cable management. My 16AWG cable is the only cable of its diameter and guage on the market due to the specifications of the cable. Which is why I am listing it on this FAQ - not to sell it, but its the only place to buy it.
This is an example of the 16AWG wire made for heatshrinkless style, you will notice that the diameter is smaller so that you will have an easy time sleeving but the thick wire will allow you to train your wires super easy.
I have specially designed this wire to be exactly the right diameter and type of insulation it needs to be to have robust crimps and allow for great cable management.
There is a few other cables out there like the 18AWG Coleman Cable that is a great alternative cable to use for heatshrinkless style, but I find that its hard to find for a good price other then on Amazon, which doesnt help out our international friends.
How Do I De-Pin My PSU Pins?
– How do I get the wires out of the connectors without damaging, what is the best tool?
This question has been a long time coming and for a large part seems to be one of the hardest things for a sleever to get down. Everyone at one time seems to have a problem with this.
I want to say first off, that please please please! DO NOT waste your money on the depinning kits out there. While they all have the basic intentions right they all not even comparable to the Original Molex Tool. The Original Molex Tool was made by Molex just for the removal of the ATX terminals we use. Its made of high tool quality metal and will last you a lifetime if you take care of it. Furthermore, there is only 3 tools you will ever need for depinning anything in your computer. What's even better is the Modified LC Molex Extractor that was designed off of the Original One - but the LC Modified is cheaper and customed to work the best.
1. The Better LC Modified Molex Extractor
2. A Round 4Pin Molex Extractor
3. A run of the mill Exacto knife with a pointed tip. (the exacto knife is used to pull up any of the tap type connectors)
That tool set will last you longer, make your jobs easier, and in the long run cost you less then any other tool on the market.
Before going any further I suggest you give a look at my MDPC Video Guide starting at time: 2:46 - this is where I show exactly how to use the tool and how to handle the problem wires. This is the best method for handling them.
If you watch the video you will see that my Original Molex Tool is slightly tweaked to be wider then how they come originally - this is a tweak I do to help get the tool on the outside of the pin.
The instructions are simple:
1. Insert the Molex Tool making sure to have both prongs on the outside of the terminal on the inside.
2. Push the wire up into connector while pushing down on the tool to make sure its all the way in.
3. While makeing sure the tool is still all the way in pull out the wire. (sometimes you make need to pull with some force as some terminals dig into the connector as this is how the PSU maker has made them.
This method will ALWAYS work, sometimes you may need allot more pull force then you think you should need but as long as you keep the wire straight so your pulling force is straight out of the connector you will be fine. If you need to repeat the steps and try again.
Allot of people also ask how do I remove the male terminals from the male connectors. It is done exactly the same way.
1. Insert your Molex Tool the same direction as the wings on the terminal and from the front side push the tool in untill it falls into the grooves for de-pinning. This can be frustrating as you can see them while you do this - but you will feel when it goes in. It just takes a little moving around.
2. Pull out wire while tool is pushed in.
And lastly we will cover the Round 4pin Extractor.
The Round 4pin Extractor needs little explanation as you simple use the right end to put over the round pin and then pull it out.
I will cover the Exacto Knife in another section as it needs allot of pictures to fully explain. But the simple rule with the Knife is that if it has a tab slightly lift it and pull the wire out, and if it doesn't have a tab you need to push down on the top part of the metal pin exposed on the side and push down to slide the pin out with the knife. But I will show you how when I update next.
Can I Sleeve An SLI Bridge?
– Can you sleeve one and what do you need to do it?
This is another question I get frequently, Nothing is more of an eyesore then an sli bridge that is not painted or that doesn't match the system it is in.
First things first, I want to share a video on one of the way this can be done by Alexander van der Linde If you haven't heard of his YouTube Channel I suggest you check it out.
Here is his video on a clean and unique method for getting this task done:
Now this is only one method.
The basics of getting this task done are simply finding a sleeve that will go over the bridge and still compress down to look good. Also you want a heatshrink that you can stretch or have an exact size that will fit as well.
Now because there is so many different kinds of sleeving and I have seen it accomplished with just about 20 different kinda of sleeve and heatsrhink I will only provide the basic way of figuring out what you need:
One quick tip before we get started, just because your motherboard or gpu came with a bridge doesnt mean you need to use that one if its hard to sleeve. They can be purchased everywhere or gotten for free from OCN members.
Measure the diameter of the end of bridge (imagine you have a big circle - whats the smallest diameter circle you will need to get it over the end.
Now that you have that circle you need to find a sleeve that will STRETCH TO THE CIRCLE SIZE - DO NOT BUY THE SAME SIZE AS YOUR NEEDED CIRCLE! If you do that then you will not be able to collapse the sleeve enough to make it look like a tight weave. (cheap black sleeving can be bought by Barry (furryletters) on eBay check out his shop and look for clean cut, remember to call him and he will give you a better price)
Find some heatshrink that is a little bit under your circle so that you have to stretch it to make it fit, this will ensure a tight grip on the sleeve and bridge - make sure you at least have 3:1 or higher and not glue lined.
Stretch the HS with a needle nose pliers slowly until it fits.
Follow normal sleeving procedures.
So I hope that helps, there is so many different ways to do things when modding. And when sleeving odd shaped things always keep in mind if there is sharp corners try to use a file and make them not so sharp or use a little tape.
How Do I Sew My Cables?
- How do I sew my sleeved cables to get them to stay in place.?
I personally have never done this so I will be leaving the answer to this question to FrankNSteinPC. If you have not checked him out on Youtube yet please check his channel at: http://www.youtube.com/FrankNSteinPC
I have gotten his permission to post his videos on here for you, he is a great guy if you get a chance to meet him I suggest you do. Also his Mods are beautiful, if you find the time check them out.
Can I Crimp A Terminal With A Needle Nose Pliers?
- What if I only need to crimp one or two wires because of a mistake or if I want to not use my crimper and use a needle nose on the heavier terminals?
If you accidentally pull out the wire from the terminal and you dont want to buy a crimper you can use a needle nose pliers to crimp the terminals without having to buy a crimper. However if you need to do more then 4 or so then I would seriously look into getting a crimper as they will be stronger and way less time consuming to do.
But the process is simple:
Make sure to have a needle nose pliers and a wire stripper that you can strip the wire to 3mm or so. Strip the wire and proceed to the next step.
Make sure that the extra wire length is inside of the pin - this will give it a better connection and hold it into place for you a bit.
Crimp down the one side carefully.
Then fold over the other side and clamp it down, make sure to get it right on so it does not overhang.
Fold over the upper wing as close to the other, I even bend the open on over a little so I can round it over a bit more.
Try to round it over as much as possible - dont just clamp it down otherwise you will end up with a ovelapping metal that will not insert properly. These crimps are not the strongest but will work in an emergency.
And thats it! Like I said I dont recommend doing this with allot of crimps but if you are in a bind it will work in a pinch, this also work with other pins as well.
Please remember that I am always updating this and if you want to see something on here please just leave a comment with your questions!
Lutro0s Sleeving Pro Tips
This section of the FAQ will consist of random bits and pieces categorized by series that I tend to go in depth in at times, or show examples of perfect work or "how it should look", and even random materials that are needed for special sleeving methods and those methods.
Pro Tip #001 Heatshrinkless Basics Explained (How it should look series)
Pro Tip #001:
When heatshrinkless sleeving one of the most important things to get right is how you are melting the sleeve and how it looks when you insert it into the connector. If you did too much or too little it will show in this phase or not even click inside the connector at all.
That is why heatshrink is used on plastic sleeving and paracord you can use no heatshrink. As you melt the plastic the heatshrink will help form a cone of sorts neatly sealing the edge of the sleeve. With plastic type monofilament sleeve this is so much more important as those strands like to bend out of place, and paracord melts together allowing you to make a cord and its a softer material so it will go into the connector much easier allowing much more room for error.
The heatshrink you use is so important for this "heatshrinkless" method as it needs to be somewhat resistant to heat and hold its form when heated with a lighter for longer amounts of time not leaving too much of a residue on the sleeve. Also you do not want it being too tight and squeeze the plastic too hard as that will not give you a gradual cone but more of a melt then sleeve with no transition making putting the sleeved cable into the connector almost impossible and defiantly not leaving it how it should look. I recommend the following shrink for heatshrinkless as its the same I use cut in about 10mm lengths so the last edge does not get shrunk making it easy to cut off. The heatshrink needs to be able to handle the heat because when you are done heating it up you need to pat it down to help form the cone shape and ensuring a strong melt onto the wire and pin.
Of course there are more things that make the heatshrinkless method not only easy but a thing of beauty fully filling the connector leaving you with a fully sleeved cable that is easy to train.
The example shown is of LC Custom 16awg wire with LC Stiff-Line Brown Sleeving which is why it looks full and super dense not showing the wire a bit and this shot is a closeup.
I hope that this helps you sleevers out there get more of an understanding of a method that is never cut and dry but more of an art.
Pro Tip #002 Importance of washing your hands.
Pro Tip #002:
When sleeving with light colors for example white or yellow or a light green, wash your hands before you sleeve to avoid staining the sleeve with heatshrink residue due to HSless Sleeving.
This should also be done before sleeving with any material due to the natural body oils making the wire slick and harder to stretch. If you use a nice dish soap (non lotion or scented) it will improve your grip on the sleeve. This makes sleeving allot easier and keeps your sleeving clean and slightly less attractive to dust.
WISK also says, "Also can use a plastic sandwich bag or ziplock as gloves while stretching to avoid skin oils and helps against rope burn too"
Pro Tip #003 Use PVC Wire Instead of Silicone Or Other Soft Wire Insulators.
Pro Tip #003:
People have asked me many times on what type of wire they should use and I have found a trend in people thinking that they need to get silicone wire or a very soft insulation on their wire to be able to route them better or for fear of having their sleeved cables be to stiff.
The truth of the matter is flexibility or softness is a huge misconception in sleeving and really the opposite is true.
In my opinion and in my experience you want wire that is stiff and that can be trained to hold its shape when you sleeve it. This way it will hold up and be able to be showcased in a nice route when its all done.
Silicone wire for sleeving is terrible. Its overly flexible and the terminals are crimped into a soft material and don't feel as sturdy.
Its really hard to get a wire that is too stiff, as you will always be able to twist and route the cable, but from my experience the stiffer the wire after its sleeved the better for training. Now obviously using solid wire would be going to far and you still would want to use a stranded wire with a insulation that can accept a terminal crimp and wont be brittle.
This is why I offer a specific wire on my shop even though wire can be found in allot of places, a good wire with a proper diameter and good insulation is hard to find if you don't know what to look for. For more specifics on what type and diameter of wire to purchase please refer to the question: What Type Of Wire Do I Buy - in the Sleeving FAQ
Pro Tip #004 Use Brush on Super Glue.
Pro Tip #004:
Brush on SuperGlue can be a very valuable asset when sleeving. By placing a small amount on the wire and then pulling the sleeve over it and holding for a second for it to tack and then heatshrinking it will allow for a more permanent hold. This can be very useful when you having issues with Sata Data Cables, Fan Connectors, Front IO Panel Connectors, and Heatshrink Style with Paracord.
I in fact use super glue on allot of my client work as I know it will take some more abuse that way.
Brush On Superglue can be found at your local hardware store.