lowfat's Big Lian Li. MOTM Jan 2015. Finished (again) Mar 09, 2016. - Page 71 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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lowfat's Big Lian Li. MOTM Jan 2015. Finished (again) Mar 09, 2016.

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post #701 of 1227 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 05:04 PM
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post #702 of 1227 (permalink) Old 03-27-2014, 11:50 AM
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They both look so amazing, could we see a pic of then in the rig?

Lan Rig:
N Case M1 Silver
i5 6600K 4.6ghz W/ Delid
Asus Z170 Impact VIII
Corsair H100i GTX (NOT RECOMMENDED FOR USE WITH THE M1!)
16Gb Kingston Fury 2133mhz
Gigabyte GTX 970 g1 gaming (No OC)
Samsung 850 EVO 250gb (OS Drive)
2x Samsung 850 EVO 250gb Raid 0 (Games and large programs Drive)
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post #703 of 1227 (permalink) Old 03-27-2014, 12:07 PM - Thread Starter
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They both look so amazing, could we see a pic of then in the rig?

Those two blocks will never make it in this rig actually. tongue.gif
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post #704 of 1227 (permalink) Old 03-27-2014, 08:03 PM
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Those two blocks will never make it in this rig actually. tongue.gif
*gasp , why? The frosted matches the res perfectly! :O

Lan Rig:
N Case M1 Silver
i5 6600K 4.6ghz W/ Delid
Asus Z170 Impact VIII
Corsair H100i GTX (NOT RECOMMENDED FOR USE WITH THE M1!)
16Gb Kingston Fury 2133mhz
Gigabyte GTX 970 g1 gaming (No OC)
Samsung 850 EVO 250gb (OS Drive)
2x Samsung 850 EVO 250gb Raid 0 (Games and large programs Drive)
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post #705 of 1227 (permalink) Old 03-27-2014, 08:13 PM - Thread Starter
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*gasp , why? The frosted matches the res perfectly! :O

Actually I am going to be unfrosting the reservoir when I take the rig apart here soon. redface.gif



My FCPU order came in today. A PWM D5, an EK top & pump case, and some more acrylic tubing.

This will be polished tomorrow. I think I may even well made a guide. I get a lot of PMs on how to do it so I think it is time for a guide.



I gave the pump casing a bit of a polish w/ some Autosol. Although it was relatively shiny stock.



Also set up my 'studio' wall. So my pics from now on should be a bit more professional'ish. tongue.gif
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post #706 of 1227 (permalink) Old 03-27-2014, 08:45 PM
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Also set up my 'studio' wall. So my pics from now on should be a bit more professional'ish. tongue.gif

Pictures of your studio? I would like to set up one as well so I appreciate any examples or inspiration thumb.gif Pictures look amazing as usual! Nice polishing job as well.

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post #707 of 1227 (permalink) Old 03-28-2014, 08:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Pictures of your studio? I would like to set up one as well so I appreciate any examples or inspiration thumb.gif Pictures look amazing as usual! Nice polishing job as well.

Jeffinslaw

Not really a studio. Just a wall tongue.gif. Yesterday I went and bought a large white flat sheet. Ironed & starched it. Then tacked it to the wall for a white backdrop. That plus an old idea desk is my entire studio. The desk I will paint once the snow melts.




Not sure I like the new pump mount EK is using for the D5.
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post #708 of 1227 (permalink) Old 03-28-2014, 05:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Here were is a guide of sorts to how I polish my acrylic block tops.

Stock.


In this pic you see the machine marks that we need to get rid of. They are on the inside of the block only. They must be removed to have glass like clarity at the polishing stage.




First you use a heat gun on the EK badge. Get it nice and hot but don't melt the acrylic tongue.gif. If you are not going to reinstall the EK badge you will need to sand the recessed circle at each stage.


Start w/ 400g on the bottom of the block. Use a piece of glass to make sure you are sanding flat when you are doing the bottom. You don't want an uneven sand job and possibly get a leak. For the flat part of the bottom you will want to sand in two different directions. You don't need a lot of 400g. You will also need to use 400g on the inside machined areas where the coolant flows.


Then move up to 800g. You can do the tops and side w/ this grit as well. Not too much pressure on the top though as you want to maintain the circles and print. By the end of 800g all tool marks should be gone. Once again sand in the coolant channels. Make sure to get the edges.


Move up to 1000g. Do the entire block just like above.



Rinse and repeat w/ 1500g (if possible) and 2000g. Should look similar to this at the end of 2000g.



Now the polish. Use a good acrylic / plastic polish. Not a metal polish. It will cut polishing time by 10x. I use Meguiar's PlastX. You'll need some good polishing cloths too. Old t-shirts work.




Now go to town on the polishing. Use a liberal amount. First polish w/ a wet part of the clock (wet from polish). Then move to a clean part and polish dry. Do clean in the threaded parts add polish to the threads and corkscrew in a cloth.


Finished product.


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post #709 of 1227 (permalink) Old 03-28-2014, 05:54 PM
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Finished product.

That block right there is a beauty! I know you probably hear this all the time but your works are amazing. thumb.gif
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post #710 of 1227 (permalink) Old 03-28-2014, 06:02 PM - Thread Starter
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WOW (Click to show)

That block right there is a beauty! I know you probably hear this all the time but your works are amazing. thumb.gif

Thanks. Here are a couple more w/ pump in place. I still need to take it apart to sleeve it though. rolleyes.gif





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