HELIOS - ASSEMBLED 2015-SEP-06 - (Caselabs SMH10 | Black/Copper | EVGA SR-2 Black Edition) - Page 21 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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HELIOS - ASSEMBLED 2015-SEP-06 - (Caselabs SMH10 | Black/Copper | EVGA SR-2 Black Edition)

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post #201 of 276 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 05:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nismoskyline View Post

subbed, this build is going to be amazing once done smile.gif

Welcome to the party! And thank you, I do my best. biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by socketus View Post

Now this is a sitchy-ation ... quite the bog. I'd opt for the costly BP ... but like you say, actually getting them may be more challenging.
I like the picture of a shiny copper loop punctuated by black fittings. Then again, shiny copper without bulky fittings would. be. sweet !

Not much help ... but droolworthy either way.

Yeah I'm leaning towards the BP fittings as well at the moment, and all opinions I've gathered
so far share that sentiment. I'll try to get them from BP directly if possible (I'll need to, really,
since the fittings I need are not actually on sale at any of their resellers I've found that also
ships to me).

And this actually was helpful, just bouncing ideas and POV's around is exactly why I made that
post. thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barefooter View Post

If you are going to polish the copper pipes my concern is that they would not match the copper fittings, they would at least be slightly off. If you use the black ones then it would give a nice contrast. Plus having so many more options with fittings will make it nicer to work with as the build progresses.

Yes they are expensive... but with a build like this...

Oh, that's a very good point as well. The finish on the copper fittings is actually very shiny, and
since they are truly copper plated you might even be able to polish them some more. But yes,
there might always be that last bit of discrepancy you can't get out.

And yes, I'm thinking that now is not the time to start skimping on things, that would kind of let
down all that's come before IMO. I just need to save up some monies to get those BP fittings
should I decide to go that route.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mocboy123 View Post

I always love stumbling into one of these amazing water cooling builds smile.gif

Haha, don't we all? biggrin.gif
Welcome to the fun!
Quote:
Originally Posted by mocboy123 View Post

I'm not too crazy about the copper fittings. I like the black Bitspowers, I think that will look really cool. Plus, Bitspower is god-like when it comes to fittings.

Noted, thank you!
Quote:
Originally Posted by kingchris View Post

i managed to get the 90 degree M/F alphacool fittings, but have changed to the monsoon light ports Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
they better match the size of the fitting Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I have eight of those M/F fittings which I ordered before they took them out of their catalog.

Also: blue/copper... noted for possible future builds, thanks for that one! biggrin.gif


Thanks for the input guys, it is much appreciated. Feedback I got on other forums has also
been leaning towards BP fittings, and so am I at the moment. However, should I decide to go
that route, it will be end of year at the earliest since I need to pay a few large-ish bills with
my October and November money.
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post #202 of 276 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 02:46 PM
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Good choice if you go with Bitspower fittings, they are so much better quality. I had an Alphacool 90 degree fitting leak at the swivel when I was doing my first leak test. I replaced it, and three others, with Bitspower fittings. The Alphacool fittings were very loose at the swivel joint. It's frustrating when you try to save some money on parts, only to find out they are crap.tongue.gif

I can understand the wait for funds though, Bitspower fittings are expensive. Imo the black finish will look great with your copper tubing.thumb.gif

CaseLabs S8 Build: S8 White w/Pedestal ~ i7 5775C Broadwell ~ ASUS Maximus VII Hero ~ Titan Xp SLI ~ GSkill Ripjaws X 2133 16GB ~ EVGA Supernova 1200 P2 ~ Acer Predator XB271HU ~ Ducky Shine 2 MX Brown w/Yellow Backlighting ~ Mucho WC parts waiting for the loop rebuild/upgrade......


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post #203 of 276 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 05:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DerComissar View Post

Good choice if you go with Bitspower fittings, they are so much better quality. I had an Alphacool 90 degree fitting leak at the swivel when I was doing my first leak test. I replaced it, and three others, with Bitspower fittings. The Alphacool fittings were very loose at the swivel joint. It's frustrating when you try to save some money on parts, only to find out they are crap.tongue.gif

I can understand the wait for funds though, Bitspower fittings are expensive. Imo the black finish will look great with your copper tubing.thumb.gif

Huh, that's not a very good batting average I'd say. I haven't had any problems with my Alphacool fittings
I ordered for testing purposes, but I have noticed that they're rather loose as well.

Anyway:

Colour-Coordinating the RAM Blocks


We all know copper is goodness. But, like so many treasures on this planet, it should not occur
in overabundance so as to keep its specialness. While I do really like the Alphacool RAM blocks,
I was never perfectly happy with either version available. The POM top is just too much black
with not enough copper, while the plexi top puts so much copper on show that it renders it less
effective in the overall effect IMO.

So, over the past ten days or so, I've been working on fixing that. I forgot to buy normal primer,
so I just did three coats of etch primer. Not exactly by the book, but such is life. If this
had been a really prominend piece with a large surface area I would have gone out and bought
some normal primer, but for such a small piece this was adequate.

After that, I gave it five coats of black, sanding it down with various grits between 1200 and
5000 after each coat, depending on how bumpy the most recent surface was (it's been rather rainy
and cold here, not at all optimal conditions for painting, and I can't do it in the apartment
because we have clients coming by here, so it can't smell like paint :lol: ). Anyway, eventually
I got a nice and smooth black surface, to which I then added two layers of clear coat, sanding
and polishing them down as well. Unfortunately, one of the pieces slipped off the table today
and got its paint job banged up, so I need to redo the last stages on that. Hence, only one
piece in the last few shots.


Anyway, this is what the RAM blocks look stock, and with black screws I swapped out to reduce
the amount of copper:


(click image for full res)
aw--helios--ram-blocks--01--black-vs-copper-screws.jpg


Masking the blocks:
(click image for full res)
aw--helios--2013-10-29--01--ram-blocks-masked.jpeg


And in black, without the clear coat yet:
(click image for full res)
aw--helios--2013-10-29--02--ram-blocks-black.jpeg


Right after taking off the masking tape, you can see the edges are still very raw:
(click image for full res)
aw--helios--2013-10-29--03--ram-blocks-raw.jpeg


Interestingly, the plexi tops are polished on the sides and the top side, but not the side
which comes into contact with the water, giving it a slightly milky appearance. Can't have
that of course. Left is the polished block (5000 grit paper, wet, then 10 000 polishing compound
and my trusty random orbital sander with a felt pad).
(click image for full res)
aw--helios--2013-10-29--04--ram-blocks-tops.jpeg


The cold plate, clear coated and polished:
(click image for full res)
aw--helios--2013-10-29--05--ram-blocks-cold-plate.jpeg


And from another angle...
(click image for full res)
aw--helios--2013-10-29--06--ram-blocks-cold-plate.jpeg


And assembled:
(click image for full res)
aw--helios--2013-10-29--07--ram-blocks-complete.jpeg


(click image for full res)
aw--helios--2013-10-29--08--ram-blocks-complete.jpeg


The finish is not absolutely perfect. Part of that is simply due to the geometry of the
cold plate, which won't really allow proper sanding without taking off too much paint in
some parts, so no matter how many coats you apply, you're always going to take off just a
little too much at some corner or edge if you want it to be perfect everywhere else, meaning
you need to apply another coat and so on. If it were a huge flat panel it would probably
have been simpler in that regard.

Other reasons for imperfections are the rather cold and damp weather we've been having here,
which has just not really allowed the paint to flow ideally. Unfortunately, my dad has part
of his business at home, so there are clients coming by from time to time, which means I can't
paint in the comparably warm and dry apartment.

And lastly, of course, is simply my inexperience. I have done a bit of painting before, but
this was my first attempt at a proper flat gloss job. The bracket for the GPU block was a bit
of a different beast since I wanted to get that powder coat-like finish, which didn't require
as much sanding and polishing, obviously (but still took be a bit to get right, the droplets
had a tendency to be of very varying sizes, which was of no use of course).

But overall I'm still very happy with it considering it's the first time I've done something
like this. The imperfections are there, but you can't really see them unless there's really
good lighing coming in just from the right angle. I'm definitely looking forward to doing
some more of this in the future and honing my skills (yes, yes, I'm aware I could just give
it to a body shop or something like that, but where would the fun in that be).
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post #204 of 276 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 08:30 PM
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post #205 of 276 (permalink) Old 10-30-2013, 01:28 AM - Thread Starter
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post #206 of 276 (permalink) Old 10-30-2013, 02:11 AM
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with the ram block just try a shot with the cooper screws, but looks good as is!


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post #207 of 276 (permalink) Old 10-30-2013, 02:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingchris View Post

with the ram block just try a shot with the cooper screws, but looks good as is!

I've been thinking about that, but I need to order some copper screws first. The ones that came with the block have
been repurposed (and mostly shortened) for other parts (reservoir, GPU block). But yeah, I'll definitely give that a
shot, thanks, thinking it might look very nice, too! thumb.gif
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post #208 of 276 (permalink) Old 11-02-2013, 06:32 PM
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Say AW - I was reading your reply to LunaP about having bottom venting in your case, and I double checked on that - sounded weird ... so I look at your Helios page 1 build, and sure enough, the bottom plate is solid with fan mounts. But I go to page 2



and see that the bottom panel is now mesh ! And no mention that I can find of this magical transformation on either page.

Care to tell how you did that ?
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post #209 of 276 (permalink) Old 11-02-2013, 08:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by socketus View Post

Say AW - I was reading your reply to LunaP about having bottom venting in your case, and I double checked on that - sounded weird ... so I look at your Helios page 1 build, and sure enough, the bottom plate is solid with fan mounts. But I go to page 2



and see that the bottom panel is now mesh ! And no mention that I can find of this magical transformation on either page.

Care to tell how you did that ?

Sure thing buddy:

With the magic of Caselabs' very own ventilated bottom cover for the STH10/SMH10. biggrin.gif

The original panel has actually been repurposed for the back panel for ZEUS (the
one into which I drilled all those holes). Worked out rather nicely I must say. thumb.gif
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post #210 of 276 (permalink) Old 11-03-2013, 03:29 PM
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DANG !! the mysteries of the CL site !

imagine that, CL actually had an idea at one time ... wonder what caused it ? Wish they had continued .... I wonder what was their goal ?

You know now, what this means .... a ventilated bottom panel GAP !

Wish I had one ... for my ST10. Dang !! Double DANGITS !!

thanks for the mystery reveal wink.gif
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