[Case Mod] [COMPLETE] December MOTM 2nd Place! - Relic: A BeigeMod First Case Mod - Page 11 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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[Case Mod] [COMPLETE] December MOTM 2nd Place! - Relic: A BeigeMod First Case Mod

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post #101 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 06:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtuning View Post

[/SPOILER]

Drilling holes like this is not easy at all... I did a few panels in aluminum and it was a difficult, nevermind in steel. Sometimes form can follow function thumb.gif.

Yeah, I hear ya. And that does take some of the sting out.

At this point, I'm considering cutting that section out as one hole and JB-Welding some sort of grill in its place. My concerns are compromising the structure. That's not the strongest steel they used there. Thoughts?
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post #102 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhereg10 View Post

Yeah, I hear ya. And that does take some of the sting out.

At this point, I'm considering cutting that section out as one hole and JB-Welding some sort of grill in its place. My concerns are compromising the structure. That's not the strongest steel they used there. Thoughts?

I assume you are going to cover it with a fan? if so - leave it.

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post #103 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhereg10 View Post

Yeah, I hear ya. And that does take some of the sting out.

At this point, I'm considering cutting that section out as one hole and JB-Welding some sort of grill in its place. My concerns are compromising the structure. That's not the strongest steel they used there. Thoughts?

It's on the bottom right? (I'm a little tired lol) If so i'd just leave it. Unless you want maximum airflow. Then again i do stuff like this all the time, and it works maybe....40% of the time? wink.gif
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post #104 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 08:11 AM
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Next time you want to drill an array of holes like that make sure you have a new sharp bit with the easy start tip. Also pratice on a block of wood and if you make it out of a nice hard piece of wood and you can use it as template for the real thing.

The build is coming along well l. Keep up the great work.


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post #105 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 10:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Going to post my next update in a minute, but first, some thank you's and responses to posts:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wihglah View Post

Could you find a way to slip a Demciflex filter in between the new front panel and the chassis?

Like sand out a channel or slot maybe on the bottom?

I think I'm going to do exactly that, sand out a channel or slot. But I think I'll do a DIY filter made out of hosiery over mesh, as some have suggested. More in keeping with the whole hacked-together theme of the case. wink.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lhtrf View Post

Don't think. It does work! awesome thing about it, is you can decide how you want the filter too! Want it to restrict airflow less? Stretch it out more! Got enough static pressure and want to keep as much dust out? Stretch it just a bit over the "Non wrinkled" part, so it still lets air pass but dust stays on it! biggrin.gif

And thank you. I am further inspired! Now to decide, what color hose? White? Black? Or I could even do red in front of the red LED fans... muaaahahahahah!! *cough cough* Sorry, got carried away.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlderonnX View Post

Looks good

Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtuning View Post

Drilling holes like this is not easy at all... I did a few panels in aluminum and it was a difficult, nevermind in steel. Sometimes form can follow function thumb.gif.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wihglah View Post

I assume you are going to cover it with a fan? if so - leave it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EpIcSnIpErZ23 View Post

It's on the bottom right? (I'm a little tired lol) If so i'd just leave it. Unless you want maximum airflow. Then again i do stuff like this all the time, and it works maybe....40% of the time? wink.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by animal0307 View Post

Next time you want to drill an array of holes like that make sure you have a new sharp bit with the easy start tip. Also pratice on a block of wood and if you make it out of a nice hard piece of wood and you can use it as template for the real thing.

The build is coming along well l. Keep up the great work.

Thank you all for the encouragement, and the tips there. Especially the tips on drilling an array of holes, animal. Much obliged and I'll do some practicing on wood and scrap metal before I tackle that again.

I'm serious guys, your comments made a difference in how I viewed the mess I made.

To answer your question, EpicSnipEr and Wihglah, Yes, those holes are on the bottom, and will be covered by the PSU. For example:

AppleMark

No one but us will know it was ever done. wink.gif Based on that, I'm going to carefully back away from messing with it further, and move along. However, I reserve the right to lose all patience with it in the future, take the bottom back off, and hack that part out. smile.gif
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post #106 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhereg10 View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Going to post my next update in a minute, but first, some thank you's and responses to posts:
I think I'm going to do exactly that, sand out a channel or slot. But I think I'll do a DIY filter made out of hosiery over mesh, as some have suggested. More in keeping with the whole hacked-together theme of the case. wink.gif
And thank you. I am further inspired! Now to decide, what color hose? White? Black? Or I could even do red in front of the red LED fans... muaaahahahahah!! *cough cough* Sorry, got carried away.




Thank you all for the encouragement, and the tips there. Especially the tips on drilling an array of holes, animal. Much obliged and I'll do some practicing on wood and scrap metal before I tackle that again.

I'm serious guys, your comments made a difference in how I viewed the mess I made.

To answer your question, EpicSnipEr and Wihglah, Yes, those holes are on the bottom, and will be covered by the PSU. For example:

AppleMark

No one but us will know it was ever done. wink.gif Based on that, I'm going to carefully back away from messing with it further, and move along. However, I reserve the right to lose all patience with it in the future, take the bottom back off, and hack that part out. smile.gif

Yeah dude, i get that feeling all the time biggrin.gif I opened up space on the front of my haf stacker to fit a 360mm rad, and it looks like crap even though you can't see it unless the case is stripped down. It's been eating at me since i did it....aghhh wheee.gif
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post #107 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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24. HOW *NOT* TO DRILL AN ARRAY OF HOLES FOR PSU INTAKE

It was bound to happen, a screw-up that I couldn't easily recover from. Luckily, it's in a place where most people won't see it, and there are some things I can do to fix it later, but I frankly don't have the desire to mess with it further at the moment.

So here's the offending piece:



What's the problem? Uh oh, well wayyy back at the beginning, I flipped the Mobo and PSU so that the PSU would be on the bottom. And this case was old enough that it only expected PSUs to mount such that they draw air from inside the case and exhaust it out the back (in fact, originally, the PSU fan was the ONLY "case fan" for air flow).

But newer cases (as in this decade) typically have the option to draw fresh air from the bottom of the case, and exhaust it out the back of the PSU, so the PSU gets cool air, and its air flow is independent of the rest of the case. I want that functionality. But unfortunately, I forgot about it until now. Better take care of that before I go painting the bottom panel, right?

Unfortunately, before I could take that step, I had another small problem:



This case was not designed for the PSU to be flipped "upside down" with respect to the panel opening. So there's some obstruction. Let's get that out of the way with the trusty dremel:



Much better.

Now for problem area #2. The screw holes don't line up.



Two of the PSU holes are out in the open air. Not much I can do about that at the moment. I'll need (at some point) to add a backer plate to the back panel and redrill holes. But honestly, with the PSU on the bottom, those two aren't a huge concern.
The two bottom holes, however, I can address by making a stencil and drilling holes in the back panel.

So first, let's attach a piece of cardstock to the back of the PSU, trace out the shape of the PSU, and punch holes where the screws should go:



And then we stick that on the back of the back panel, and transfer the hole locations to the back panel and drill out the holes. I used a 3/16" bit:



Well that all seems to have gone rather well. Now I can use a similar method to figure out where the PSU vent hole(s) should be. First step, I need a hole template, which MNPCTech kindly has available online.



Cut out the hole, center it over the PSU intake, and tape it down. Cut off some (but not all) of the excess cardstock that overhangs the side and back. Cut the front of the cardstock flush with the PSU.



Then I mounted that to the back panel using the nice screw holes I just finished drilling.



Doesn't that look nice?

Then I attached the bottom panel to that assembly. It more or less just snapped into place (which bodes well for later actual assembly). I could then tape the stencil to the bottom panel:



Carefully removing the PSU/Backpanel, I was left with the location of the vent transferred onto the bottom panel and drew some lines through the center of the circle so I'd have some guides to work with.



Now... here's where things started to go wrong. Take a closer look at that bottom panel and the vent location:



Notice that the PSU is not centered on the bottom panel, so the vent isn't centered. Further, it's a 140mm hole, and I don't have a hole saw that size. To make matters worse, the hole overlaps the "legs" for the bottom panel. I can't just cut a 140mm hole even if I did have a hole saw that size.

Now, I considered cutting a "window" for the bottom vent at this point. Basically it would be partially a circle, but would skate around the bottom panel "legs" area. The problem with that is I was starting to become concerned with the structural integrity of the bottom panel. It's not exactly the thickest material, and already has flex to it. Cutting out a big hole right next to where the weight of the case will be resting seemed a bad idea.

So, I reasoned, I would do a "swiss cheese" pattern of holes, following the lines that I had cut. It is at this point I wish I'd had this advice already:
Quote:
Originally Posted by animal0307 View Post

Next time you want to drill an array of holes like that make sure you have a new sharp bit with the easy start tip. Also practice on a block of wood and if you make it out of a nice hard piece of wood and you can use it as template for the real thing.

Yeah... things didn't quite go well.

First off, since the vent area isn't centered, trying to follow the "hole" pattern will result in a set of holes that won't be centered on the bottom, and may run out of room in different spots. And that's exactly what happened. Secondly, I used the wrong bit, and tried to use one that was too large. It had a tendency to "walk" on me, offsetting the holes by up to 1/16" (which really shows in an array of holes):



Finally, because of all those problems, when I was done with the 1/2" bit, I felt I didn't have enough venting, and tried to fill in with a 3/8" bit. And that just made it worse from a symmetry standpoint. The end result was less than stellar:



Note the off-center holes (1), the 3/8" holes (2) and spots where because of various issues I couldn't fit a hole where one should have gone (3).

Overall, I think I have plenty of venting for the PSU intake, but frankly I was very unhappy with the resulting aesthetics. (That's putting it mildly. There was a lot of swearing, followed by the imbibing of alcohol.)



But overall, if I was going to learn that lesson, this was the place to learn it. The final result won't be visible to the casual viewer of the case once the PSU is mounted:



Lessons Learned:

1) Don't try to do array's of holes if at all possible.... lol. If I had to do it over, I would probably have cut a window and epoxied a stiff grill/mesh on the bottom for stability.

2) If you must, take animal0307's advice. Use the right bits, and practice on wood (and then metal) first.

3) Drill your holes from the center outward so that any errors are on the outer edges. In my case, I worked myself into a "corner" in the middle and couldn't fit holes where I wanted them.

At this point, I'm calling this done. I may revisit it later if it's still eating at me. I can, of course, cut out the offending section and go with the epoxied mesh.

Hope you find this little adventure useful. smile.gif
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post #108 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-10-2014, 01:40 PM
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This is what happens when you have an old beige case, power tools, and a bored redneck...Looking good so far!
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post #109 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-10-2014, 03:10 PM - Thread Starter
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This is what happens when you have an old beige case, power tools, and a bored redneck...Looking good so far!

I shudder to think what those same power tools would result in, in the hands of a madman like you. wink.gif
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post #110 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-10-2014, 06:54 PM - Thread Starter
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25. 'BACK IN BLACK" and "GREAT BALLS OF FIRE"

So I've gotten over my recent error. I've moved on, see. It just doesn't bother me.

Okay, maybe not completely.

But I have done some other work, and covered over some of the pain with my new best friend:

AppleMark

Now some of you may be saying... "But Jhereg, didn't you just finish laying down a coat of paint on those?"

And you'd be right. But silly me, I didn't do a good enough job prepping it (I think) and the finish was rather rough even after sanding with 400 grit. So I smoothed it out a bit more, and that got me back down to the primer in some spots. So I'm hitting them again.

And also, I'll be painting the bottom, which was only primed before, and the "underside" of the top panel. Why only the underside? Why if you look at the second half of this post, you'll see exactly why.

First a little cleanup with rubbing alcohol:

AppleMark

Let that dry. Then a couple coats on one side:

AppleMark

And a couple hours later a couple coats on the other side:

AppleMark

And some work on the drive cages. Those things are a bear to do, because I just can't seem to get into all the nooks and crannies with the sandpaper.

AppleMark

And at this point, I ran out of paint. Looks like I'll be buying my third can of the flat black enamel. biggrin.gif

Now I promised I'd give a bit of insight into what I had in store for the top of the top panel.

So here's what I did. Remember that "pizza pan" experiment from a few updates ago?

AppleMarkAppleMarkAppleMark

First a layer of dark red, then light red, then orange, then yellow.

Well I'm still running with it. And it's starting to come together.

What I did next was use some plain old white glue to make a "liquid mask". Don't freak out just yet. I ordered some actual honest to goodness liquid latex mask for the final product, but I wanted to see if it would look on metal how I imagined it in my head, and Elmers glue was what I had on hand.

Once that was dribbled on (sorry, didn't get a photo) I waited for it to dry. Well... I waited it to skin over. I was too impatient to wait for the thicker blobs to dry, and I was just playing around anyway.

Then I sprayed a satin black enamel over that. Resulting in this:

AppleMark

And after waiting for that to dry to the touch, I proceeded to peel off the glue (most of it, some had not cured enough, and some had stuck too well to the base coats).

AppleMarkAppleMark

Overall, the end result was pretty cool:

AppleMark

Of course, you can see places where the glue pulled off the basecoat, and where the glue didn't dry fully. Again, with a proper latex masking fluid, I don't think I would have had the problems I did have.

After letting the black fully cure, I sanded it and just finished an application of a satin clearcoat to protect the "seams" between the top coat and the basecoat.

AppleMark
AppleMark


This hasn't been sanded at all, mind you. I will do that once the clearcoat cures. But I expect some pretty nice results. I expect with some actual *care* in the prep work and application, and using actual latex liquid masking, I can really make a cool effect that will complement the red lighting theme that is evolving for this case.

Thoughts?
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