[Case Mod] [COMPLETE] December MOTM 2nd Place! - Relic: A BeigeMod First Case Mod - Page 16 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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[Case Mod] [COMPLETE] December MOTM 2nd Place! - Relic: A BeigeMod First Case Mod

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post #151 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-19-2014, 09:20 PM
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This log is AWESOME!

Kinda makes me want to go out and find an older beige case, too bad I lack steady hands, tools, cool ideas, the ability to paint, and just about everything else required to make a nice mod. frown.gif

Ooh well, cannot wait to see it finished!
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post #152 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-20-2014, 01:23 AM
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post #153 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-20-2014, 02:14 AM
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Great work as always man. I was thinking about how to mount a baking tin/cookie tray to as case panel. I'd be inclined to try mounting the lip inside and using some filler around the seem to make it smooth and continuous. Either way, looking forward to seeing what you come up with! thumb.gif

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post #154 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-20-2014, 08:26 AM
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For the cookie pan, I'd cut around the edge right in the center of the rolled part. This will make the lip less thick, but still keep a nice edge for mounting. Make a cutout in the case panel, insert the cookie sheet from the inside. For attaching it, I'd look at dropping some pop rivets through the cookie sheet rim, just at the very edge of the panel cutout. Put the head on the outside of the panel, and the rivet gun on the inside. This will attach it solidly, and the rivets can be hidden with a nice fillet of JB Weld on the outside.

Painting is a ton of fun. Masking can be a pain, but yes, the final reveal is always a treat. I usually do all my painting in reverse on the back of acrylic sheets, but I can also cheat a bit as I have a laser. So it either cuts the masks for me, or I can engrave off the paint to provide another color, or a clear area.

I have a hammer! I can put things together! I can knock things apart! I can alter my environment at will and make an incredible din all the while! -Calvin
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post #155 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-20-2014, 08:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TLHarrell View Post

For the cookie pan, I'd cut around the edge right in the center of the rolled part. This will make the lip less thick, but still keep a nice edge for mounting. Make a cutout in the case panel, insert the cookie sheet from the inside. For attaching it, I'd look at dropping some pop rivets through the cookie sheet rim, just at the very edge of the panel cutout. Put the head on the outside of the panel, and the rivet gun on the inside. This will attach it solidly, and the rivets can be hidden with a nice fillet of JB Weld on the outside.

Painting is a ton of fun. Masking can be a pain, but yes, the final reveal is always a treat. I usually do all my painting in reverse on the back of acrylic sheets, but I can also cheat a bit as I have a laser. So it either cuts the masks for me, or I can engrave off the paint to provide another color, or a clear area.

Thank you. That is excellent advice.
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post #156 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-20-2014, 09:19 AM
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32. RUBBER WASHERS, COOKIE SHEETS, AND LOGOS


AppleMark

Worse yet, this is giving me other ideas. Like the kind that would require taking another look at the top panel with maybe a Dremel. No. No don't even think about it... far too late for that. Would require more *shudder* painting....

If you know anyone or have a machine shop in the area that has a laser cutter you might be able to get them to do some cuts. Would be a hell of a lot easier then with a dremel and would be pretty much perfect, all they would need is prepped material and a vector of the cutting path. Would double check firs though to see what their machine's capabilities is, it takes a beast of a machine to cut decently thick metal, acrylic would be a lot easier.



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post #157 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-20-2014, 01:23 PM - Thread Starter
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If you know anyone or have a machine shop in the area that has a laser cutter you might be able to get them to do some cuts. Would be a hell of a lot easier then with a dremel and would be pretty much perfect, all they would need is prepped material and a vector of the cutting path. Would double check firs though to see what their machine's capabilities is, it takes a beast of a machine to cut decently thick metal, acrylic would be a lot easier.

As tempting as that is... and it's very tempting... I'm trying to keep as much of the work in-house both on principle and to keep down costs. Even realizing that it's going to be a lot of work, and a machine shop could do a better job.

I'm a bit masochistic that way. wink.gif

EDIT: However, I am taking part of your advice. I'm going to see if I can cut it into acrylic instead of metal. Ordered my side window acrylic and some sample colored acrylics from Tap Plastics today.

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post #158 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-20-2014, 06:10 PM
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only use a dremel for plexi when it's absolutely necessary...

with that said use a fine handsaw "not a wood saw smile.gif ".
use some large an small files and some sandpaper for the finer adjustments.

I tried with a lot of different things and this produced the best results.

do not take off the protective plastic until you are 100% done working with the plexi.
the protective plastic serves to make the plexiglass a bit more pliable when working with it.

if you take it off it will shatter a lot easier not to mention the horrid marks and scratches smile.gif
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post #159 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-20-2014, 09:42 PM - Thread Starter
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only use a dremel for plexi when it's absolutely necessary...

with that said use a fine handsaw "not a wood saw smile.gif ".
use some large an small files and some sandpaper for the finer adjustments.

I tried with a lot of different things and this produced the best results.

do not take off the protective plastic until you are 100% done working with the plexi.
the protective plastic serves to make the plexiglass a bit more pliable when working with it.

if you take it off it will shatter a lot easier not to mention the horrid marks and scratches smile.gif

Sounds like a coping saw would be the best choice them?




Or perhaps a scrollsaw with a fine blade?

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post #160 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-20-2014, 10:28 PM
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Ugh. I hate cutting acrylic on a scroll saw. The blade still produces a little too much heat, so it rewelds some of the chips. I never did get used to using a coping saw. The band saw I have makes quick work of some of the cuts I need to do on larger parts.

I have a hammer! I can put things together! I can knock things apart! I can alter my environment at will and make an incredible din all the while! -Calvin
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