[Case Mod] [COMPLETE] December MOTM 2nd Place! - Relic: A BeigeMod First Case Mod - Page 21 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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[Case Mod] [COMPLETE] December MOTM 2nd Place! - Relic: A BeigeMod First Case Mod

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post #201 of 512 (permalink) Old 07-01-2014, 12:12 PM - Thread Starter
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38. NOBODY BUT ME AND JB (WELD)

So I've never really messed much with JB Weld. I played around with some half-used tubes that I found earlier in this project, and the stuff was like putty. But after asking around, I'm told that it was probably just old and that a new set of tubes would be much runnier. Which is what I want.

(I should preface this by saying I attempted to use solder to mate the surfaces. BIG FAIL. I couldn't get the panels hot enough with my torch without seeing the panels start to warp. So I cleaned off the solder and started over.)

AppleMark

Let's go mount that side panel!

First I made sure I had a stiff, flat surface UNDER the side panel, so I could be sure it would be completely flat when I added weight to the top. You can't see it in this photo, but I also slid an old grocery sack over the wood, in case the JB Weld ran:

AppleMark

Then I roughed up the mating surfaces with sandpaper and degreased them with isopropyl. The circle on the left is where I'll do my mixing, since I expect to use almost half a tube and I'm nervous about working time. I want room to move.

AppleMark

And here's the panel set in place.

LESSON LEARNED:

Apply the stuff to the bottom surface, not the top surface. It was much runnier than I expected (duh) and I got a lot of drips as I applied it. Better would have been to clearly mark the mating surfaces on the side-panel, and make a "bead" of it, then set the bumpout in place.

Still, it worked pretty well. Sorry no photos of me applying it. I ran out of hands, and it was a mess trying to keep the process under control. rolleyes.gif

AppleMark

Then I weighted that baby down with some scrap lumber.

AppleMark

After that, I used acetone to clean up some of the spillage.

And now... we wait.

sleepysmiley03.gif

sleepysmileyanim.gif

stitchfacesmiley.png

After the JB Weld cures, I will sand down any high spots, and then I may apply another bead to the inside of the mating surface just to be safe. After that, I'll be using the Everglass to strengthen and sculpt the bumpout.
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post #202 of 512 (permalink) Old 07-01-2014, 12:29 PM
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JB DRY!!! I WANT TO SEE THE RESULT!!! jealoussmiley.gif

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post #203 of 512 (permalink) Old 07-01-2014, 01:26 PM
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JB DRY!!! I WANT TO SEE THE RESULT!!! jealoussmiley.gif


patience!

Leave that sucka for 24 hours bro.

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post #204 of 512 (permalink) Old 07-01-2014, 01:34 PM - Thread Starter
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post #205 of 512 (permalink) Old 07-02-2014, 09:17 AM
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Surely it's close enough to 24 hours now?!?!?!!!!

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post #206 of 512 (permalink) Old 07-02-2014, 09:27 AM - Thread Starter
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post #207 of 512 (permalink) Old 07-02-2014, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ron1389 View Post

JB DRY!!! I WANT TO SEE THE RESULT!!! jealoussmiley.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wihglah View Post

patience!

Leave that sucka for 24 hours bro.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian18741 View Post

Surely it's close enough to 24 hours now?!?!?!!!!

Okay okay, enough cruelty... I pulled the wood off and had a look!

AppleMark

First off, adding that bumpout really stiffened up that side panel. I mean before it had some serious torsion flex, but now it's straight and stiff. Very nice effect. Second, it seems like the panel is very solidly attached. I used a small amount of force, and didn't hear or see any cracking.

AppleMark

Interesting side-effect you can see here. There were some existing holes in the side panel and the JBWeld oozed into those. Bet the joint at those spots is quite strong. I'm glad I thought to put plastic down under that, or I'd be sanding wood off the back of the panel! rolleyes.gif

But that does give me the idea that next time I'll drill pinholes between the two pieces for extra bonding surface.

AppleMarkAppleMark
AppleMarkAppleMark

As you can see, some spots came out really clean, and others the JB Weld ran like nobody's business as I was trying to apply it. So I've got some serious cleanup to do.

So if you're thinking of doing something similar:

1) Make sure you set a very flat surface underneath the bottom piece to ensure you get a flat join.
2) Rough up both surfaces well. I used 80 grit, believe it or not.
3) Degrease it and let dry.
4) Apply the JB Weld to the top of the bottom piece to minimize runs and mess. If I'd thought of it, I'd have loaded it into some sort of syringe or squeeze tube like cake decorators use to get a nice bead.
5) Set the top part on and weight it down good. Don't touch or peek for 24 hours!

Looks like this got me a good strong joint.

Next steps;

1) Grind off some of the excess, which will be tricky because the metal is thin. Some spots, I won't even bother since it will be hidden inside the case.

2) Add body filler to sculpt the join. I've got an idea to use sandpaper wrapped around a piece of PVC to get a nice smooth curve. We'll see how that works out.

3) Prime and prepare to paint with the rest of the exterior.

Then I can start on the front-side panel window!
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post #208 of 512 (permalink) Old 07-02-2014, 10:25 AM
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lolwut, is that a cookie sheet?

Either way, its always nice to see a fresh approach to a mod, no matter how unconventional lol

Biased rPGA and MXM 3.0A/B Elitest.
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post #209 of 512 (permalink) Old 07-02-2014, 10:26 AM
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That looks really solid! I wonder what it will looks like when it's painted.

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post #210 of 512 (permalink) Old 07-02-2014, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhereg10 View Post



Okay okay, enough cruelty... I pulled the wood off and had a look! Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
AppleMark

First off, adding that bumpout really stiffened up that side panel. I mean before it had some serious torsion flex, but now it's straight and stiff. Very nice effect. Second, it seems like the panel is very solidly attached. I used a small amount of force, and didn't hear or see any cracking.

AppleMark

Interesting side-effect you can see here. There were some existing holes in the side panel and the JBWeld oozed into those. Bet the joint at those spots is quite strong. I'm glad I thought to put plastic down under that, or I'd be sanding wood off the back of the panel! rolleyes.gif

But that does give me the idea that next time I'll drill pinholes between the two pieces for extra bonding surface.

AppleMarkAppleMark
AppleMarkAppleMark

As you can see, some spots came out really clean, and others the JB Weld ran like nobody's business as I was trying to apply it. So I've got some serious cleanup to do.

So if you're thinking of doing something similar:

1) Make sure you set a very flat surface underneath the bottom piece to ensure you get a flat join.
2) Rough up both surfaces well. I used 80 grit, believe it or not.
3) Degrease it and let dry.
4) Apply the JB Weld to the top of the bottom piece to minimize runs and mess. If I'd thought of it, I'd have loaded it into some sort of syringe or squeeze tube like cake decorators use to get a nice bead.
5) Set the top part on and weight it down good. Don't touch or peek for 24 hours!

Looks like this got me a good strong joint.

Next steps;

1) Grind off some of the excess, which will be tricky because the metal is thin. Some spots, I won't even bother since it will be hidden inside the case.

2) Add body filler to sculpt the join. I've got an idea to use sandpaper wrapped around a piece of PVC to get a nice smooth curve. We'll see how that works out.

3) Prime and prepare to paint with the rest of the exterior.
Then I can start on the front-side panel window!

Looking good smile.gifthumb.gif

Quotes taken out of context and still sounds good. wink.gif
“Who’s the more foolish; the fool, or the fool who follows him?”
“That… is why you fail.”
“It’s worse.”
“That’s no moon.”
"..."
“Sorry about the mess.”
**Got to love StarWars** biggrin.gif
thumb.gif The {Official} Canadian OCN Club thumb.gif
thumb.gif OCN Beigemodders Club thumb.gif
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