[Case Mod] [COMPLETE] December MOTM 2nd Place! - Relic: A BeigeMod First Case Mod - Page 35 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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[Case Mod] [COMPLETE] December MOTM 2nd Place! - Relic: A BeigeMod First Case Mod

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post #341 of 512 (permalink) Old 11-06-2014, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Jhereg10 View Post

Alright here's a follow up question, if you don't mind.

Let's say I satin clear it, and then discover a high spot. If I sand that down and then do another coat of satin clear, will the "sanding blemish" disappear?

If you wet sand an area to take out trash, It would be better to clear the whole panel, it would be difficult to blend the texture perfectly.
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post #342 of 512 (permalink) Old 11-08-2014, 08:10 PM - Thread Starter
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53. It's In The Details - Cutting A Logo Out of Acrylic

While I'm waiting for the clearcoat to dry, I thought I'd work on the logo a bit.

You may remember the PSU cover I've been playing around with:



I have been wanting to make some sort of backlit logo for the mod that was in or on that PSU cover. It just seems like it would work nicely. This is what I came up with on paper:

AppleMark

But how to get that to be a "translucent" or "window" in the PSU cover? I toyed with several ideas. Making the cover out of acrylic or metal. Masking off translucent acrylic and painting all of it opaque except for the letters, making a vinyl "negative" of the letters and covering translucent acrylic. I had this rolling around in my head for weeks. In the end, I settled on the following:

1) Cutting a rectangular window in the PSU cover.
2) Fitting an opaque black acrylic panel on the front of it, or inset into it, with the logo as a cutout in the acrylic.
3) A translucent white or red acrylic panel behind the opaque black panel, to act as a light diffuser.

Then all that was left was, how do I cut a complicated pattern of letters in black acrylic without it looking like a four-year old with a crayon did it?

It wasn't easy.

First I took my piece of acrylic and covered it with masking tape to protect it from scratches. LESSON LEARNED: Next time use a lower tack tape. The green stuff is a little *too good* on adhering to acrylic. You'll see why that was an issue further below.

AppleMark

Then I printed my logo on cardstock for maximum stiffness and used a spray adhesive to stick it to the masked acrylic:
AppleMarkAppleMark

The next step was to drill some pilot holes. I thought I would try to do some of the bulk cutting with my Dremel. I put in the smallest "roto bit" that i had, and it was just barely small enough. LESSON LEARNED: Use a smaller bit for this kind of work. That bit, even though it was small enough, tended to walk and oscillate alarmingly and actually overbored slightly. I had to fudge the carving a bit later on to compensate for those spots.

AppleMark

After attempting to do a bit more on the "R" and almost mangling it, I gave up on using the Dremel and switched to the scrollsaw. The dremel holes gave me the openings I needed to get my scrollsaw bit threaded through there:

AppleMark

Here I'm almost done. That first letter was the roughest. LESSON LEARNED: Practice on a piece of scrap acrylic first. It took me at least one full letter to get the feel for how much pressure I needed to apply on the curves to get the blade to follow the pattern. I overshot several times on the "R" and had to fudge around those to get it to look decent.

AppleMark

All the initial cutting done, and stuck it in front of a lamp to see the effect:

AppleMark

Not bad! Next step was to use some files to clean up the mistakes and rough spots a bit, and flatten out some of the straight cuts a bit more:

AppleMark

After that, I stuck a piece of translucent white behind it:

AppleMark

And set that in front of the red LED strip in the case:

AppleMark

Yes, imagine if you will, me grinning from ear to ear.

Now that final lesson learned came when I tried to pull that tape off. Some of those cuts are *very* close to lopping off part of the "e" or "c". I was very worried the tape would break those off. Next time I'll use tape with less tack.

AppleMark

The letters do still have some roughness to them. I'm debating whether to leave them like this (which fits with the "relic" theme) or to continue to smooth them out. Any thoughts on what to use to smooth out those cuts?
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post #343 of 512 (permalink) Old 11-08-2014, 08:18 PM
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I use needle files for small fine work like this. You can get a cheap set at harbor freight and many other stores for around $5. They come with about 6 or so different shaped ones. They take a little while to work with depending on the amount of material that is removed. They come in handy quite often. Is that a Dremel scroll saw I see? It looks exactly like mine from the pics. It's been a great little machine as I've got a ton of hours on it. It's looking great so far and it just needs a bit of smoothing out. Keep up the good work buddy. I want to be modding on my build so bad, especially after seeing your update.


"wнy ғollow ѕoмeone elѕeѕ paтн, wнen yoυ can rυn ѕcreaмιng тнroυgн тнe woodѕ and мaĸe yoυr own."
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post #344 of 512 (permalink) Old 11-08-2014, 09:28 PM
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Looks good to me.

 

Practice first is the key to detail work. Also have you considered getting a wire or round blade for your scroll saw? In my experience they a million times easier at doing detailed work, I'm not sure how they would work with plastics though. I imagine them may load up rather quickly and goop up with melted plastic if the don't cut right. 

Keep up the good work. The paint reminds me of my beige box mod back in high school.



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post #345 of 512 (permalink) Old 11-09-2014, 10:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by animal0307 View Post

Looks good to me.

Practice first is the key to detail work. Also have you considered getting a wire or round blade for your scroll saw? In my experience they a million times easier at doing detailed work, I'm not sure how they would work with plastics though. I imagine them may load up rather quickly and goop up with melted plastic if the don't cut right. 


Keep up the good work. The paint reminds me of my beige box mod back in high school.

Thank you. I will have to look into that round blade.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ReaperN1 View Post

I use needle files for small fine work like this. You can get a cheap set at harbor freight and many other stores for around $5. They come with about 6 or so different shaped ones. They take a little while to work with depending on the amount of material that is removed. They come in handy quite often. Is that a Dremel scroll saw I see? It looks exactly like mine from the pics. It's been a great little machine as I've got a ton of hours on it. It's looking great so far and it just needs a bit of smoothing out. Keep up the good work buddy. I want to be modding on my build so bad, especially after seeing your update.

I was using a needlefile set that, amazingly, I picked up at Harbor Freight. But it was hard to see how clean (or not) it was until I pulled off all the tape and such. Have to retape it and work on it some more.

As for the scrollsaw, yup, it's a Dremel that I picked up secondhand years ago and stuck in a corner. I think this project is the most use I've gotten out of it. Too bad you can't get metal-cutting blades for it. I looked all over and couldn't find anything that was designed for that, and it would have been very handy for cutting access holes in small panels.
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post #346 of 512 (permalink) Old 11-09-2014, 10:21 AM
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Ya it would be nice if the scroll saw could cut metal. I use mine almost everyday wether I'm cutting wood or acrylic. I usually use blue painters tape and use a pen or pencil to trace an outline of what I want. Then I use the needle files to take away material until I get to the outline. That way it comes out the same as the template or outline. That's what I usually do when I'm trying to do something detailed like your relic logo. That method has worked great for me. Little detailed things like this are always tricky and in my experience, take a lot of time. The end product is worth it though. Your doing a great job.


"wнy ғollow ѕoмeone elѕeѕ paтн, wнen yoυ can rυn ѕcreaмιng тнroυgн тнe woodѕ and мaĸe yoυr own."
-n1


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-BL


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post #347 of 512 (permalink) Old 11-09-2014, 10:56 AM
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post #348 of 512 (permalink) Old 11-09-2014, 01:56 PM - Thread Starter
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54. Windows to the Soul - Finally Mounting the Acrylic Window

I feel like I finally hit a milestone today. I'm ready to start reassembling the exterior of the case, though I've still got quite a bit of work to do on the interior panels and wiring holes.

Yesterday I put the last coats of clear semigloss acrylic on the front and backside of the exterior panels:

AppleMark

Here's the finished top panel, ready for mounting the GPU Antec Kuhler:

AppleMark

Still playing around with the filter. I may replace the central emblem with something else. Not sure yet. Otherwise, the top panel is done.

Next step was to permanently install the trim around the side panel window:
AppleMarkAppleMark

Came out quite nice. Sorry about the potato-quality. Should have taken time to block the sunbeam and add more ambient lighting:

AppleMarkAppleMark

Then I flipped the panel over and placed the acrylic. It was almost too small. Wasn't paying attention when I cut the hole and just assumed I had ordered it big enough for anything I might cut. But I got lucky. I used some double-sided tape temporarily to mount the acrylic panel and I'm not trimming it just yet:

AppleMark

Here's what it looked like from the front with the panel in:

AppleMark

And here's what it looks like with the panel on and the case lights running:

AppleMark

And now to respond to the last couple of replies:
Quote:
Originally Posted by ReaperN1 View Post

Ya it would be nice if the scroll saw could cut metal. I use mine almost everyday wether I'm cutting wood or acrylic. I usually use blue painters tape and use a pen or pencil to trace an outline of what I want. Then I use the needle files to take away material until I get to the outline. That way it comes out the same as the template or outline. That's what I usually do when I'm trying to do something detailed like your relic logo. That method has worked great for me. Little detailed things like this are always tricky and in my experience, take a lot of time. The end product is worth it though. Your doing a great job.

Thanks man. I appreciate the complement from someone as meticulous as you are.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buehlar View Post

Love the unfinished idea for the Relic logo. Think it'll fit the build better with the rough and jagged edges. thumb.gif

Thanks. I will definitely leave it as is for now, then.

Hope you guys liked this update. Next focus is the interior panels and the PSU cover and logo. Then I'll probably transplant the guts back over and start doing some wiring modifications and finish up the front of the case. I also need to make a filter for the front fans that doesn't block the LEDs.
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post #349 of 512 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 01:41 PM
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Thinking of it, it's crazy how this all started out as some disgusting looking beige case. biggrin.gif

That side panel window though. Amazing. drool.gif
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post #350 of 512 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 08:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vaatibal View Post

Thinking of it, it's crazy how this all started out as some disgusting looking beige case. biggrin.gif

That side panel window though. Amazing. drool.gif
It appears you are enjoying this. Here, have a few more "darkroom" shots:



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