[Case Mod] [COMPLETE] December MOTM 2nd Place! - Relic: A BeigeMod First Case Mod - Page 43 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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[Case Mod] [COMPLETE] December MOTM 2nd Place! - Relic: A BeigeMod First Case Mod

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post #421 of 512 (permalink) Old 11-25-2014, 08:19 AM
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Guide for sleeving doubles from Lutro0. http://modbunker.com/guides/#tab-2-7

I have a hammer! I can put things together! I can knock things apart! I can alter my environment at will and make an incredible din all the while! -Calvin
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post #422 of 512 (permalink) Old 11-25-2014, 09:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohenryy View Post

Can't wait to see it when everything is finished. All the hardwork really shows in this build.

Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpha One View Post

When I used to do sleeving, I used this company, they have everything you'll ever want.

http://www.wirecare.com/braided-sleeving.asp

this is the sleeving part, but they also have a lot more, take a look.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpha One View Post

True you could pay someone to do it and might get a better looking job, but you would lose the experience and the chance to hone your own skills, that in itself is worth more than getting it done for you.

And thank you as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtuning View Post

Keep your head up. Take a break from it and tackle it another day. I didn't see one but do you have a pin out of the psu?

Yup that's basically what I did. As for pinout, since the PSU is semimodular, the wires exit it in a bundle so order at the PSU isnt really an issue. So all I'm left with is the standard pin order on the mobo side.
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Originally Posted by TLHarrell View Post

Guide for sleeving doubles from Lutro0. http://modbunker.com/guides/#tab-2-7

Thanks man! Looks like the answer is splice the wires together closer to the PSU if possible, leaving only one wire to sleeve. Have to check the amps and wire size tho.
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post #423 of 512 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 08:42 AM
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Wire size is usually 16 or 18 gauge. Either one should be sufficient.

I have a hammer! I can put things together! I can knock things apart! I can alter my environment at will and make an incredible din all the while! -Calvin
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post #424 of 512 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TLHarrell View Post

Wire size is usually 16 or 18 gauge. Either one should be sufficient.

Interesting. Why do they double up if one is sufficient?
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post #425 of 512 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 04:21 PM
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Usually it's a loop back to the power supply for current sensing. This makes sure that the PSU delivers the proper current and can adjust for voltage drop at the motherboard.

I have a hammer! I can put things together! I can knock things apart! I can alter my environment at will and make an incredible din all the while! -Calvin
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post #426 of 512 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 05:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TLHarrell View Post

Usually it's a loop back to the power supply for current sensing. This makes sure that the PSU delivers the proper current and can adjust for voltage drop at the motherboard.

Thanks again. I doublechecked the pinout location on this one, and it's apparently a ground (COM) next to the grey "Power Good" sensing wire.
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post #427 of 512 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 06:36 PM
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I'm glad to see you tackled sleeving your psu. Anyone can buy perfectly sleeved cables but a true modder attempts it at least. I think you did a great job. You shod see my first attempt at sleeving. Keep up the good work buddy.


"wнy ғollow ѕoмeone elѕeѕ paтн, wнen yoυ can rυn ѕcreaмιng тнroυgн тнe woodѕ and мaĸe yoυr own."
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post #428 of 512 (permalink) Old 11-27-2014, 09:27 AM
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Looking good! thumb.gif
Shame about breaking that comb, will we have to wait on another one before you can continue?
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post #429 of 512 (permalink) Old 11-27-2014, 10:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReaperN1 View Post

I'm glad to see you tackled sleeving your psu. Anyone can buy perfectly sleeved cables but a true modder attempts it at least. I think you did a great job. You shod see my first attempt at sleeving. Keep up the good work buddy.

Thanks man. Got family plans today and tomorrow, but I'll be posting an update in Sunday.
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Looking good! thumb.gif
Shame about breaking that comb, will we have to wait on another one before you can continue?

Thanks Bruce. I'm gonna keep going with just two combs for now. Bought a heat gun to make shrinking a little easier. Getting the flame in there next to the PSU was tough.

I think I'll buy some E22 combs from Lutro0 so I can add them after.

I also need to get on the ball with the front panel. Wanna have this presentable for the December amateur mod competition. thumb.gif
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post #430 of 512 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 05:56 PM - Thread Starter
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61. Two Become One: Handling double wires for PSU sleeving

Finally got some time to make some progress here. Between the Thanksgiving holidays and trying to recover from the Thanksgiving holidays...heheh.

Also, I moved my stuff to the workshop so I wasn't taking up half the dining room table. Took a bit to clean the space up so I didn't dirty up the sleeving.

If you followed my previous posts, I had run into a bit of an issue. I was attempting to unpin, sleeve, and repin each wire one at a time so that I didn't have to tag the wires. Unfortunately, what I found was that several of the wires were doubles at the connector, and to really do it right, I needed to just unpin everything and then handle those doubles.

Also, I found that my homemade pin removal tools (a couple of carpenter's staples) were just too thick and unwieldy. Not having a lot of patience, I ran to Fry's and paid far too much for a couple of tools they had there.

AppleMark

Please don't ask how much I paid, the shame is nearly unbearable.

I then proceeded to start unpinning and got the next pin loose (upper right arrow, below). And discovered why a noob like me should not try unpinning, sleeving, and repinning one at a time.



Yeah... see where that arrow at the lower left is pointing? That's a sleeve come loose from the heat shrink due to having to manhandle the next pin out of the connector. *sigh*

So regardless, I soldiered on. Here's the two pin removal tools in action:

AppleMark

After trying to remove the second pin, I got fed up with the removal tools. Even as dedicated tools, they were too thick to easily get both of them in there between the pin and the plastic connector housing. One side would slide in no problem, but that shoved the pin so tight against the other side that I couldn't get the second tool in there.

So I took direct action. To the grindstone!

AppleMark

MUUAAAHAHAHAHA!

Yup. I ground the ends of the tool down so that it tapered to a sort of blade profile. That made a huge difference in being able to get both tools in there.

But even after that, I found it difficult to pull the wires out, even once the flanges on the pin were compressed. So I wrapped some tape around a pair of pliers so I could get a grip without tearing the insulation.

AppleMark

This worked, but frankly I can't help but think I must be doing something wrong. It felt like it took too much force to get those pins out.

After that, the work went pretty fast. Before long I had a whole bunch of labeled pins free.

AppleMark

Which meant I could finally remove the old sleeve and untangle all the wires:

AppleMark

AppleMark

My next step was to approach this more methodically than before, and precut a bunch of heat-shrink:

AppleMark

And then I cut away the old and fixed that piece of black sleeving that had come loose:

AppleMark

I know these don't look perfect, but I hope you'll forgive me. It's my first attempt here and I'm still getting a feel for this stuff.

Next I decided to fire up the soldering iron and fix the required splices for the double wires. My thanks to TLHarrell for pointing out the Lutro0 video on how to handle those.

First I grabbed a pair, and cut one so that the splice would be at the PSU. This allows you to have only one wire from the PSU to the connector. For this particular wire, one was a twisted pair and the other a straight run, so I cut the twisted wire so the sleeved one would be less difficult to manage.

AppleMark

Then I stripped the cut wire, and used my Exacto to remove some of the insulation from the remaining wire where the two would match up:

AppleMark

Then I soldered the two together:

AppleMark

And slipped the heat-shrink over it and applied yon heat gun:

AppleMarkAppleMark

And the finished product:

AppleMark

I had to do four pairs I think. Here's another finished pair. I got better at it as I went:

AppleMark

That was all for this evening, but now all the wires are prepped for sleeving. I think tomorrow I'll shift gears a bit, and work on the front power and reset buttons.
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