[Case Mod] [COMPLETE] December MOTM 2nd Place! - Relic: A BeigeMod First Case Mod - Page 44 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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[Case Mod] [COMPLETE] December MOTM 2nd Place! - Relic: A BeigeMod First Case Mod

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post #431 of 512 (permalink) Old 12-04-2014, 10:36 AM
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Detailed as ever, once again I love how in depth you go with everything I can see it really helping people get into modding. smile.gif

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post #432 of 512 (permalink) Old 12-11-2014, 06:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George C View Post

Detailed as ever, once again I love how in depth you go with everything I can see it really helping people get into modding. smile.gif

Thank you. Helping others figure out how to mod with stuff they may have easy access too has been part of my goal.

Here's a bit of an update, though it turned out to be a fail. rolleyes.gif

Decided to try and finish the power/reset panel. The idea was to take the second prepainted bay cover and drill two holes for the buttons. First I needed to trim some of the excess material off the ends. These aren't original to this case, and the fit was too snug.

AppleMarkAppleMark

Then I covered it with tape to protect the finish, and marked the centerline and where I wanted the two holes. I'm using one 22mm button for power and one 16mm button for reset. After that, I drilled the pilot hols for the forstner bit.



And then drilled out the holes with the forstner bits.

AppleMark

AppleMarkAppleMark

The plastic left some pretty neat remains on the bit. Next I used a file to smooth out the cuts.



And peeled the tape off:



Overall, I was pretty pleased, though the smaller hole was 0.5mm off centered which annoyed me. Then I did a test fit on the case. Trying to decide whether to put the buttons at the top bay or the bottom bay. Any thoughts?



And of course, that's when I realized my mistake. Rather than actually measure the barrel-sizes of the buttons, I used Google-fu to determine what size the holes should be. And I either got bad info, or I screwed up, because I ended up cutting both holes too large for the buttons.

Basically, I need to do all of that again. A mixed blessing. I have two more bay covers, and this will allow me to try to get the holes centered better. Stay tuned!
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post #433 of 512 (permalink) Old 12-11-2014, 10:18 PM
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I've done the same thing more times than I can count. I ended up buying some digital calipers at Harbor Freight for about $10 on sale. I don't know how I ever survived without them. Even though I use them I still occasionally make the same mistake. I've gotten into the habit of cutting holes just a hair too small and filing them so that they are snug. Great update on the build buddy and I wish you luck on your MOTM. Keep up the good work.


"wнy ғollow ѕoмeone elѕeѕ paтн, wнen yoυ can rυn ѕcreaмιng тнroυgн тнe woodѕ and мaĸe yoυr own."
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post #434 of 512 (permalink) Old 12-12-2014, 03:51 PM
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post #435 of 512 (permalink) Old 12-13-2014, 09:34 AM - Thread Starter
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62. Halfway Home - Halfway done with the 24-pin connector
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Originally Posted by BruceB View Post

How's the sleeving going?
Good luck with MOTM! thumb.gif

Funny you should ask that. I had set aside most of this morning to working on sleeving the PSU. biggrin.gif

I'm getting better at getting the heat shrink where I want it on the pin and sleeving.

AppleMark
AppleMark

If I had it to do all over again, I would shift the sleeving much closer to the end of the pin, but since my early pins were sleeved with this spacing, it's a bit late to redo it now (though I may redo it all later).

Here I am, halfway done with the 24-pin connector.

AppleMark

You can easily tell which pin I started with (the far left) as it's the least consistent. I have some work to do on wire training, obviously.

Also, I found the black paracord, which I purchased locally, was obviously lower quality than the paracord I purchased online from West Coast Paracord. It tended to bunch up when I attempted to slip the heat-shrink on it, and that is why you will see less cord under the heat shrink for that color. At first I though it was my technique changing, but when I got back to the red/black cord, I could tell the difference. Who knew?

Also, had I to do it over again, I might not have gone with the "closed cell" cable combs. I'm finding it's difficult to thread the sleeved wire through without it stretching/marking up the sleeving I just applied. I've ordered some of the E22 cable combs to add additional combs to the sleeving afterward.

I want to give another shout-out to Lutro0 for his video on paracord heat-shrink application. Without his tutorial, I never would have known about pre-stretching the heat-shrink with neeedle-nose pliers like so:

AppleMark

And I would not have bought his paracord threading tool. That think is a dream to use.

AppleMark

On another note, I found this stuff locally, and thought I'd see if there is any application for it:

AppleMark
AppleMark

Basically, it's a cored cord rolleyes.gif similar to paracord but much larger. Here it is compared to the size of standard 550 paracord.

AppleMark

I will play around with it and see if it's useful for sleeving bundles of wires or (if I can actually get it over the connector) SATA wires. I'll keep you posted.
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post #436 of 512 (permalink) Old 12-13-2014, 09:48 AM
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I like that thicker cord you have in the last few pics - never been one much for sleeving, but I do like that.
Keep up the good work!
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post #437 of 512 (permalink) Old 12-13-2014, 11:25 AM - Thread Starter
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63. The Best Kind of Failure: When it breaks where you wanted it to...

Remember that first pin (#12) that I sleeved and how I didn't like the job I did?

AppleMark

Yup, popped right out of the heat shrink there on the right.

So I unpinned it and cut the heat shrink away completely:

AppleMark

And redid it:

AppleMark

Much better...

And onward to the work.

AppleMark
AppleMark

I only have four wires left on the 24-pin now!

AppleMark

Whee!!! Unfortunately, the natives are demanding lunch, and the wife is working, so I must leave you here and tend to weighty matters such as warming up pizza, Popeye's chicken, and red beans and rice. Dang. Now I'm hungry too.... thumb.gif
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post #438 of 512 (permalink) Old 12-13-2014, 12:51 PM - Thread Starter
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post #439 of 512 (permalink) Old 12-13-2014, 04:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Finished the 8 pin CPU connector as well.

First I had to decide what to do with the permanent 4-pin CPU connector. None of my mobos need a 4-pin. I could either sleeve it as well, leave it as is, or cut it and cap it inside the case.

In the end, I decided to do none of the above. Instead, I coiled it up inside the case in its original poly sleeve. The red arrows point to the path I ran it:



Below, you can see it coiled up in the front of the PSU:

AppleMark

Then I sleeved the 8-pin CPU connector. This went very fast. I'm beginning to get a feel for this stuff.

AppleMark

As you can see, I threaded each wire through the combs and repinned it as each one was sleeved. Apparently my heat shrink or sleeving was better as I didn't have as much trouble getting them through the combs.

AppleMark

You'll notice my heat shrink is much shorter, and the sleeving runs closer to the connector now.

Here are the two finished harnesses. As I said before, I have some more clip-on combs coming for the 24-pin.

AppleMark

Next I reassembled the PSU. It was very difficult getting the wires back in the original opening, even with not running the four wires for the 4-pin through. The primary reason was because some of my sleeving went back into the case, and most of the heat-shrink also did. If I had it to do over again, I'd run all the sleeving just short of the hole or make the hole larger. At this point, I really don't have time to do that.

So instead, I bundled it up as tight as I could with a zip-tie and that held it compact enough to get the cover back on the PSU.

AppleMark

And then a quick test on an obsolete mobo to ensure I didn't screw anything up:

AppleMark

Now comes the big question, what do I do with the molex and PCIe connectors? These are currently "ribboned" cables.

AppleMark

I can separate them out and sleeve them, and I eventually want to do this, but I'm not sure I have time right now. I think what I'll do is leave these as they are, since they are modular, and see if I have time after I finish the other tasks to mess with them.

I did run into one other problem. Another sleeve came loose when I was adjusting the combs on the 24-pin.

AppleMark

At first I thought it was just a bad sleeving job on my part. But then I realized that this was one of the twisted-pair wires that I had sleeved. I had forgotten some of the wires weren't straight, and was probably careless in moving the comb and it snagged on the curves in the wire.

Regardless, I unpinned that one, and reapplied heat shrink.

AppleMark

I'm really pleased how this all turned out. Especially once I get the additional combs in there.
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post #440 of 512 (permalink) Old 12-13-2014, 08:54 PM
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Looks great! An idea or next time, try pre cutting the heat shrink to all the same length, it saves time when sleeving and looks all even. Keep it up thumb.gif

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