[Case Mod] [COMPLETE] December MOTM 2nd Place! - Relic: A BeigeMod First Case Mod - Page 5 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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[Case Mod] [COMPLETE] December MOTM 2nd Place! - Relic: A BeigeMod First Case Mod

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post #41 of 512 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 06:03 PM
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I'm personally loving it the way it is. If you don't like it after you build it up, you can always sand it back down anyways.

R2D2
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post #42 of 512 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickcnse View Post

I'm personally loving it the way it is. If you don't like it after you build it up, you can always sand it back down anyways.
I'm with this. Leave it as is then just check it later once you're pretty much finished with the mods. If it's not to your liking, you can trim it down accordingly. wink.gif
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post #43 of 512 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 11:51 AM
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I'd probably chop them back until the center is nearly flush with the original panel. Less filling that way. Leave maybe 1/16" at center.

I have a hammer! I can put things together! I can knock things apart! I can alter my environment at will and make an incredible din all the while! -Calvin
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post #44 of 512 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 04:27 PM
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damn dude.

This is so nostalgic.
Reminds me of mods made back when water-cooling wasn't commonplace and all cases where beige.
You know back when thermaltake didn't exist and Antec was a big deal.
With the CPU's just breaking the 1 GHz barrier.

Mods back then where all made with stuff bought in the hardware store, homemade led chains and your imagination.

Makes me want to do an old-school air cooled case mod smile.gif

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post #45 of 512 (permalink) Old 05-27-2014, 11:39 AM - Thread Starter
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14. Side WIndow Planning

Alright, next up is planning the size and location for the side-panel window while I start work on fiberglassing the front panel. I'm interested in any feedback here.

Here is the interior showing relative locations of the components:

Note: These are not the final mobo/psu/drives for this system. They are old stuff that I don't care if it gets banged up from installing/uninstalling multiple times so I have something to test fit.



And the current side panel:



Here are a few possible variations on window size and position. Apologies for the rough look there, I just took Photoshop and erased some of the upper layer to get a feel for looks.

Which do you think provides the best aesthetics?

MOBO ONLY:



MOBO AND PARTIAL CAGE:



ALL BUT UPPER CAGE:



FULL WINDOW:



I'm concerned about the last two because of structural integrity. That steel side-panel is pretty floppy. However, considering acrylic is probably more stable than the steel, having a side window might actually stiffen the panel up.

Thoughts or preferences?

Quote:
Originally Posted by XorioZ View Post

damn dude.

This is so nostalgic.
Reminds me of mods made back when water-cooling wasn't commonplace and all cases where beige.
You know back when thermaltake didn't exist and Antec was a big deal.
With the CPU's just breaking the 1 GHz barrier.

Mods back then where all made with stuff bought in the hardware store, homemade led chains and your imagination.

Makes me want to do an old-school air cooled case mod smile.gif

Subed

And thank you. I tell you, this is a blast. And get this... I found a repair shop nearby that *might* provide me a nearly endless supply for tinkering.
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post #46 of 512 (permalink) Old 05-27-2014, 10:17 PM - Thread Starter
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15. FRONT BEZEL SCULPTING PART 1

Based on advice from PurdueBoy, I opted to build up the basic bezel form with expanding foam prior to covering with fiberglass. To get the general shape I want, first I wrapped it with plastic. This would help form the shape I'm going for.

AppleMark

And as before, I screwed up again and overfilled it. Not that I used too much foam, but I put too much in at one time.

Lesson Learned: Spray a bit of foam, let it expand and harden, and then repeat. Don't try to fill the entire section at once.


AppleMark


Weighted it down to ensure it didn't expand into the tubes.

AppleMark
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post #47 of 512 (permalink) Old 05-28-2014, 12:05 PM - Thread Starter
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16. FRONT BEZEL SCULPTING PART 2

The expanding foam finished curing, and I carved off most of the excess.

AppleMark
AppleMark

The overall shape of the final product starting to show.

I expect the foam will contract somewhat, and that's fine, since the next step is to sand this down a bit more and then begin applying a resin.

For the resin, I'm going with Evercoat Everglass for this attempt. This was recommended by MNPCTech for its combination of strength and flexibility.



EDIT: Note that many resins do not play well with many foams, and this situation may be no exception. I'm going to do a couple of test spots on some foam and see if there's any melting. If there is, I'll likely "prime" the foam with an epoxy base to seal it before applying the resin.
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post #48 of 512 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014, 05:54 AM - Thread Starter
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17. SO I TOLD MY WIFE I WAS GOING OUT TO DO SOME STRIPPING...

She told me I wouldn't make more than $10.

*snare-drum snap*

So I'm sick. Sick I tell you, of that beige paint. Now, I could just scuff it up and paint over it, but where's the fun in that? Let's strip down to bare metal and reprime that baby!

I used this stuff, purchased at my local auto parts store, and laid down some cardboard. I wore vinyl gloves, which turned out to be a mistake (more on that in a minute). I kept good air flow, but didn't use a respirator for this. It seemed pretty mild, vapor-wise.



Started with the top and the side panels:



The top was a breeze. The paint bubbled up within 5 minutes of soaking in this stuff.



The side panel, on the other hand, took about 20 minutes before the paint loosened.

Not sure why but both side panels were much more problematic. The paint texture, now that I think about it, was different on those as well. The top was smoother and the sides had a more powder-coat feel.



This was as clean as I could get the top and sides after a single dose of the stripper:



LESSONS LEARNED:

Wear nitrile gloves (which I switched to). In the vinyl gloves, my hands started burning about 30 minutes in, and when I took the gloves off, I could tell the material was compromised by the stripper. A bit of hand washing and I was fine.

Let the stripper do its work. Don't rush it, that just breaks the paint into flecks which then will try to re-bond with the surface. In my defense, the top was so easy and fast, it made me impatient and set uneralistic expectations. I should have waited about 30 minutes on the side panels.
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post #49 of 512 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014, 12:15 PM
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Looking good. Took it the extra mile with the paint stripper.

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post #50 of 512 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014, 12:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickcnse View Post

Looking good. Took it the extra mile with the paint stripper.

Thank you!

And my wife was right. I spent several hours out there stripping and not one woman came by to stuff dollar bills in my belt. Not one. *shakes head sadly*
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