[Case Mod] [COMPLETE] December MOTM 2nd Place! - Relic: A BeigeMod First Case Mod - Page 7 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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[Case Mod] [COMPLETE] December MOTM 2nd Place! - Relic: A BeigeMod First Case Mod

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post #61 of 512 (permalink) Old 05-31-2014, 09:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wihglah View Post

Subbed - great work so far.

I've seen these front panel mods go bad previously by using gloss paint. It shows up every imperfection. I strongly recommend a matt finish.

Thank you! I had bought a semigloss Krylon Fusion. I will look at matte finish based on your advice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4WDBenio View Post

The recovery work is the most helpful, thanks for the tips. :-)

My pleasure. Documenting my mistakes for other first timers was part of my goal. One thing I'm learning about the expanding foam is do no more than an egg sized area at a time, let it cure between, and let the final hit cure for a day or more before trimming. :-)
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post #62 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 09:40 PM - Thread Starter
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20. ADVENTURES IN SPRAYPAINTING

And here's where I betray another area where I feel I need much more practice. I've never had the best luck with spray paint. I don't know whether it's been a lack of prep, a lack of patience, or what, but I am never completely pleased with the result.

However, this time I am trying mightily to take my time and do it right. I can say with no reservations that I've spent 10x as much effort on preparation as I've ever done for any other painting project. My fear is that I'm missing the window on recoat, or forgetting a sanding/cleaning step somewhere. *shrugs*

INTERIOR:

You saw in the last update that I used a good self-etching primer.

AppleMarkAppleMark

After letting that cure for a few days (which may have been a mistake, not sure) I applied the first coats of my interior finish, a flat black (with accent colors / locations To Be Determined).

First coats, front and back:

AppleMarkAppleMark

Second coat:

AppleMark

Comparing the primer-only on the top panel with the base coats on the interior:

AppleMark

Closeup of some of the interior pieces. The edges look a bit rough. I haven't done any sanding yet.

AppleMark

The plan is to sand everything with 600, then recoat, and work my way up to 2000 grit on the last coat. I want as smooth a matte finish as I can manage.

EXTERIOR:

At the same time, I'm playing around with a scrap piece of steel to see if my idea for the exterior finish is going to work. Don't freak out just yet, this is only the undercoat. So far I'm not impressed with the effect I'm getting here. I suspect that I really need an airbrush to get the undercoat pattern I'm looking for. But I'm going to run with this test and see where it leads.

The undercoat is a dark red, accented with sprays of a lighter red, orange, and yellow.

AppleMarkAppleMarkAppleMark

The idea here is to finish up this gloss undercoat, then add a pattern of liquid masking latex.

After that is dry, I'll spray a topcoat of black semigloss over that and peel off the mask.

Then a clearcoat over that.

The desired effect will be veins of color running through a black semigloss finish. Honestly I have no idea whether it's going to look nice at all, which is why I'm testing it out on scrap first.

Feedback welcome, of course.
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post #63 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-03-2014, 02:26 PM - Thread Starter
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21. FRONT BEZEL FILLER PT 1 - AKA THIS IS WHY WE CAN'T HAVE NICE THINGS

Well that was an education. Body Filler is awesome. Like amazing stuff that you can do practically anything with.

Let's start with a short recap of where yon front bezel has been thus far:

AppleMarkAppleMarkAppleMarkAppleMark

And so we find ourselves ready to do a bit of body filler application, hoping beyond hope that I didn't screw something up five steps ago that will make it look like crap. Again, I confess, this is my first ever attempt at using body filler, so I'll be amazed if this turns out as I expect, but I'm very pleased so far.

First, let's have a look at our supplies:

AppleMark

High quality body filler and hardener, plastic blades, respirator with carbon filters, safety glasses, nitrile gloves, and a plastic lid for mixing. The plastic lid was soon overhelmed and tossed in favor of a larger version. I'm told you should mix this stuff on cardboard or paper because it can contaminate the resin. So I dabbed out a dollop of resin, added a line of hardener per instructions:

AppleMark

So far so good. Now for the first application.

AppleMarkAppleMarkAppleMarkAppleMark

I did the best I could for a first application, but I didn't know quite what I was doing, so it was pretty ugly.

TIL:

This stuff is *thick*. It's like a very thick cake icing with some gooey-ness to it. My first glop of it I made a mess because I didn't realize it would kind of flop over into the fan duct. And scraping it back off of that was nearly impossible. It just spreads around. But since it can be sanded, I didn't panic.

This stuff hardens *fast*. It stays spreadable for only a few minutes, then it starts to get "runners" if you try to work it further. Best to stop messing with it as soon as you see it hitting play-dough consistency.

And lastly, it drys *fast* and can be sanded in 5-10 minutes after application. In a couple of cases, by the time I finished the last part of the bezel, the first part was dry enough to sand.

So let's get sanding. I used an 80 grit sandpaper for this part, since I was doing rough shaping. And a few places I had to break out the dremel.

AppleMarkAppleMarkAppleMark

Unfortunately this happened:

AppleMark

The foam on one side was built up more than the other, and I tried to sand the high side down to match the low side. As a result, I sanded completely through the filler down to the foam, which obviously cracked under the pressure of sanding. Oops.

TIL:


Make sure you build up and don't try to sand down too much. Pay attention to where your substrate is high and low.

EDIT: Oops, hit submit before I intended to. So I'll just make this a two-part post. Stay tuned!
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post #64 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-04-2014, 02:05 PM
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Looks really promising. I like the profile you went for.

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post #65 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-04-2014, 02:19 PM
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Pretty cool stuff. I like the building up of the resin, it's going to make a super unique case!

R2D2
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post #66 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-04-2014, 05:06 PM
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What ? Full case mod with facial reconstruction job !!! Sub.
Seriously that is quite intense make over. great job keep us posted.
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post #67 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-04-2014, 05:13 PM - Thread Starter
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22. BEZEL FILLER PT 2 - AKA PERSISTENCE IS ITS OWN REWARD

In which our intrepid modder learns that all things are possible with body filler.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wihglah View Post

Looks really promising. I like the profile you went for.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickcnse View Post

Pretty cool stuff. I like the building up of the resin, it's going to make a super unique case!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wanou View Post

What ? Full case mod with facial reconstruction job !!! Sub.
Seriously that is quite intense make over. great job keep us posted.

Thank you all! Wait til you get a load of the photos below. I think you will be most pleased.

WARNING: LOTS OF PHOTOS

TIL: It's okay to go overkill. This stuff is pretty easy to sand when it's been drying less than an hour. So I stopped being so tentative with it. I didn't slather it on too thick, but I wasn't afraid to overbuild a few areas, knowing I could sand it down after.

So on to the second coat, which I let dry for 15 minutes and then sanded. Throughout this stage, I was using 80 grit sandpaper, pretty aggressive stuff. Ignore the orbital sander in the photos. I tried using that, but found it was practically useless for this work (too big, too many curves) so it was almost all hand sanding.

AppleMark

And the third application. It's really starting to take shape:

AppleMarkAppleMarkAppleMarkAppleMark

And then sanding down the third application:

AppleMarkAppleMark

And now the fourth and last application.

AppleMarkAppleMark

And sanding that down.

AppleMarkAppleMarkAppleMark

I discovered at this point that there was no frakking way that I could get any cleaner than this:

AppleMark

The Everglass is just too thick to fill fine cracks like this for a noob like me. It balls up and doesn't spread enough, and I would just end up wasting 3/4 of it.

In our next installment.... glazing and spot putty!
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post #68 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 09:14 AM
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Looking great so far!

This is one of my favorite products to use during the finishing process. DryDex

The coolest part of it is that it goes on a super bright pink, looks like cake frosting almost and then drys white when it's ready to be sanded. It's not super hard like a body filler, it's more like glazing putty and isn't the strongest stuff, but if you fiber glass over it, it could have worked nicely.

Just make sure you always use a mask and good ventilation when applying those body fillers, some pretty nasty stuff in there. Same when sanding it as well as the foams, never good to breathe that junk in.

If you get a really nice finish on the body filler after puttying it up you may not even need to fiber glass. Couple of good coats of primer, (love this stuff) and paint of your choice should look great. Are you going for a glossy finish? If you want to get really sexy with it head to the automotive store and pick up some 1500, 2000, and 3000 grit sand paper. Wet sand and then wipe up your drool with some paper towels.



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post #69 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 12:01 PM
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Excellent stuff. What about instead of trying to fill all the little scratches, you sanded down smooth and then built it up with body filler again?

Also does it add much weight to the front panel? Won't really make a difference, just curious!

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post #70 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 12:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Thank you both for your continued feedback, I really appreciate it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PurdueBoy View Post

Looking great so far!

This is one of my favorite products to use during the finishing process. DryDex

The coolest part of it is that it goes on a super bright pink, looks like cake frosting almost and then drys white when it's ready to be sanded. It's not super hard like a body filler, it's more like glazing putty and isn't the strongest stuff, but if you fiber glass over it, it could have worked nicely.

Just make sure you always use a mask and good ventilation when applying those body fillers, some pretty nasty stuff in there. Same when sanding it as well as the foams, never good to breathe that junk in.

If you get a really nice finish on the body filler after puttying it up you may not even need to fiber glass. Couple of good coats of primer, (love this stuff) and paint of your choice should look great. Are you going for a glossy finish? If you want to get really sexy with it head to the automotive store and pick up some 1500, 2000, and 3000 grit sand paper. Wet sand and then wipe up your drool with some paper towels.

Thanks for the tip! That stuff looks like it would be useful for smaller filling areas, but I had a good 1-inch thick gap that needed to be filled. I'd bet it would have required multiple layers, and probably would have cracked on me unless, as you suggest, I covered it with fiberglass afterward. And I'm not sure of my abilities with fiberglass mat/cloth just yet. wink.gif I will keep it in mind for my next mod.

I definitely kept the respirator on with an organic filter during application and a dust filter during sanding. But it bears reminding.

This body filler in particular (EverCoat) has fiberglass strands in it. As you'll see in my next post, your prediction is correct. With a good filler and glazing putty, you don't need to fiberglass over it. And I did as you suggested, and picked up sandpaper up to 2000 grit for wet-sanding the final finish, even though it's going to only be a satin. I'm debating whether to do a satin clearcoat over it. biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian18741 View Post

Excellent stuff. What about instead of trying to fill all the little scratches, you sanded down smooth and then built it up with body filler again?

Also does it add much weight to the front panel? Won't really make a difference, just curious!

I used the glazing putty (which is more like toothpaste consistency than the body filler is) to fill in the little scratches, which you'll see in the next update. It came out very nice, and good enough for my first attempt for sure.

As far as weight, what I'm ending up with is:

  • Weight of the original ABS bezel.
  • Minus the chunks I cut out and plus the weight of two PVC rings, which is probably a wash.
  • Plus the weight of foam inside the bezel ranging in thickness from 1/2" to 1.5" thick (negligible weight)
  • Plus the weight of foam on top of the bezel ranging from 1/4" to 1" thick. (negligible weight)
  • Plus the weight of a 1/8-1/4" layer of body filler plus glazing putty.


Overall, it really doesn't seem much heavier, but when I'm done I'll actually weigh it.
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