[Case Mod] [COMPLETE] December MOTM 2nd Place! - Relic: A BeigeMod First Case Mod - Page 8 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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[Case Mod] [COMPLETE] December MOTM 2nd Place! - Relic: A BeigeMod First Case Mod

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post #71 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 03:27 PM - Thread Starter
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23. BEZEL SPOT FILLING - A LITTLE DAB'LL DO IT

In which we find that glazing putty is a gift from the gods.

Yon glazing and spot putty:

AppleMark

Applied much smoother and easier than the Everglass. And stayed workable for minutes. A pleasure to use.

AppleMark

First pass:

AppleMarkAppleMark

Sand with 320 grit:

AppleMarkAppleMarkAppleMarkAppleMark

And a second, skim coat:

AppleMarkAppleMarkAppleMarkAppleMark

And sand again with 320 grit:

AppleMark

Spot filling:

AppleMark

And final sanding, again with 320 grit:

AppleMark

After I finished, just to check the surfacing, I wet-sanded it down with 800 and 1000. It was smooth as a baby's bottom. A pity I'll have to rough it up again with 400 before I do the final painting.

Let's do another comparison, before starting, and progress to date:

AppleMarkAppleMark

Notice that I also filled in the groove that ran up the side posts in addition to sculpting the new fan ducts. This turned out 1000 times better than I expected I could do.
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post #72 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 04:22 PM
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Subbed! this looks interesting.

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post #73 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 04:40 PM
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You're doing a great job of keeping it even on both sides. The finished product is going to look amazing. Are you going to do any sort of mesh or pattern in the fan ducts or leave them open so the lights really shine through?

R2D2
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post #74 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 04:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Sparda09 View Post

Subbed! this looks interesting.

Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickcnse View Post

You're doing a great job of keeping it even on both sides. The finished product is going to look amazing. Are you going to do any sort of mesh or pattern in the fan ducts or leave them open so the lights really shine through?

And thank you, Nick.

I'm going back and forth on the mesh. My wife had this folding metal-mesh filing box that fell apart (hinges broke), and I'm thinking of salvaging mesh from it.

AppleMark


It's pretty nice looking stuff. Especially since it's free!

But I really need to add some sort of filter media to that intake to keep dust down, too.

So I'm torn on what to do. I may try to modify the front bezel (add a slot on the bottom or one side) so that I can easily slide a mesh/filter in and out, so that I can have the exposed view when I'm showing it, but filtered the rest of the time.
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post #75 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 05:00 PM
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That mesh looks about perfect. I ended up ordering some from frozencpu that was only a dollar but it looks horrible. On the plus side I didn't feel bad when I messed up and cut some holes in the wrong place or bent it inappropriately so I had to start over. I also finally gave up on figuring out how to filter it because my case is open every other week or so and I just clean everything out while I'm in there. one of the things I was thinking about though is attaching the filter (a nylon) to a magnet and just clipping it onto mesh fan guards.

R2D2
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post #76 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 11:33 PM
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Next up you're going to want to get some high build primer to go over all that body cheese. Also, a somewhat curved but fairly rigid sanding block will help knock down any remaining high spots. If you just hand sand, your fingers will put pressure into the low spots too, so it's harder to get an absolutely even finish. Now is the time to make sure it's flawless as when you paint it you will see every imperfection.

I use IKEA trash cans for mesh. Same idea and looks like the same stuff... except yours has grooves bent into it for rigidity. The IKEA trash cans used to be just a rolled tapered cylinder. They switched designs and now they're more square, and have a round semi-spherical bump on all sides. Much harder to flatten out.

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post #77 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 05:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TLHarrell View Post

Next up you're going to want to get some high build primer to go over all that body cheese. Also, a somewhat curved but fairly rigid sanding block will help knock down any remaining high spots. If you just hand sand, your fingers will put pressure into the low spots too, so it's harder to get an absolutely even finish. Now is the time to make sure it's flawless as when you paint it you will see every imperfection.

I use IKEA trash cans for mesh. Same idea and looks like the same stuff... except yours has grooves bent into it for rigidity. The IKEA trash cans used to be just a rolled tapered cylinder. They switched designs and now they're more square, and have a round semi-spherical bump on all sides. Much harder to flatten out.

You are absolutely right.

Unfortunately, I painted it last night and didn't see your post until this morning. frown.gif

At this point, I'm going to have to wait until the current paint fully cures (7 days) before attempting any fixes or tweaks. It doesn't look bad at all!, heck it looks awesome...but you can definitely see some imperfections if you look closely. I'm open to further suggestions. Thanks for sticking with me as I stumble through all this.
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post #78 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 06:29 AM
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You are absolutely right.

Unfortunately, I painted it last night and didn't see your post until this morning. frown.gif

At this point, I'm going to have to wait until the current paint fully cures (7 days) before attempting any fixes or tweaks. It doesn't look bad at all!, heck it looks awesome...but you can definitely see some imperfections if you look closely. I'm open to further suggestions. Thanks for sticking with me as I stumble through all this.

Let's see it!

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post #79 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 07:12 AM - Thread Starter
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23. BEZEL PAINTING - IF PERFECTION WAS OUR GOAL....

Body work's done, so here's the painting process and result. I think that the final result is frankly quite nice, but far from perfect. Have a gander!

TIL: Primer is more than about ensuring a good paint bond. It's also an opportunity to spot imperfections in the finish so you can fix them before you lay down your fancy shmancy paint coat. So props to TLHarrell, whose very wise words of wisdom came alas too late.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wihglah View Post

Let's see it!

Ask, my friend, and it shall be yours.

So here's where I started. A roughed-up front bezel and Krylon Fusion satin finish. I thought about going completely flat, and was warned away from glossy finishes, so I figured this was a decent compromise:

AppleMark

TIL: It is impossible to really see the imperfections in the body filler. You absolutely *must* lay down a primer coat first. The uniformity of color will help bring them out so you can repair them then.

First Coat:

AppleMarkAppleMark

Dry for about 20 minutes, then recoat:

AppleMarkAppleMark

And repeated a third time, which I didn't photograph.

And the final result:

AppleMarkAppleMark
AppleMarkAppleMark
AppleMark

These are the kind of imperfections that you can see if you look closely and the light catches it just so:

AppleMark

But overall, I think this is a bit better than what I started with. wink.gif

AppleMarkAppleMark

Now, after it cures for 6 more days, I can (if it bugs me too much) sand it down some more, fill those spots, and have another whack at it. I'll have to see what gnaws at me.

Next step, I have to get the internal frame painting finished and assembled, so I can see what this bad boy looks like with lights in it!
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post #80 of 512 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 07:46 AM
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For sure, I'd say priming is the most important part of painting. It looks like you've still got some pretty big problem areas (on your top hole) that you should still be working with glazing putty, maybe even a bit of body filler, its tough to see how deep it is.

Everyone has a different process, but for me when I'm priming the first coat of primer gets sanded about 90% off back down to bare. Clean and prep surface, re-primer, sand down again, leaving more and more each time depending on how many coats you want to do. It's a really time consuming process, but it make or breaks your project.

As for colors I've heard that the darker the color the more noticeable any imperfections will be, so if you go black and shiny you're gonna have to have a pretty much perfect surface.

Waiting for 7 days? I guess if you want to take a break or something that's nice, but I don't think it's necessary, especially if you are just going to sand it off and use an actual primer on it. I remember I had a project and I started painting like 18-24 hours before it's deadline, I managed to do like 6 coats of filling primer and 4 or so coats of paint, of course I didn't get to sleep until the final dry time (around 4 hours) but it turned out pretty nice so I think waiting 7 days is overkill.

I've never used type of Krylon paint, but I think that primers used different chemicals in them that are better suited to concealing small defects. I love how it says no sanding or priming required right across the can^^



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