[Build Log] [Beige modders Club Entry] AMD s939 Lean Mean Green Machine **COMPLETE** - Page 2 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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[Build Log] [Beige modders Club Entry] AMD s939 Lean Mean Green Machine **COMPLETE**

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post #11 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-18-2014, 12:42 AM
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post #12 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-18-2014, 01:05 AM
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With that 80mm exaust fan, you could use a load of washers or cut up some rubber/plastic tube to use as spacers then you can have all 45 screws Holding it in.

It Looks like you're off to a good start! That removeable MB tray is great, I wish more cases yould have that Feature! smile.gif
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post #13 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-18-2014, 06:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shobai View Post

If you're willing to hear a little crazy talk, I've had a few thoughts.

Firstly, I think you're on the right track with more intake fans than exhaust, considering the size of area above the IO ports - you're not going to fit a reasonable fan in there nicely. I think there are a few options, though, once you cut away as much metal as you reasonably can from that area:
Rely on the pressure from the intake fans to move air out there, as there will be little resistance in that path.
Or, depending on how good your metal work skills are (or how 'ghetto' you're prepared to have the case looking) create a simple duct from the opening out to an externally mounted 120mm fan.

I'd probably go the 'duct' route, if I was in your position, but I enjoy making cardboard contraptions rolleyes.gif

Secondly, you've shown a single 120mm fan on the front panel, but is there any particular reason you couldn't use two? How many drives are you planning to mount in the case? If you're planning a few, would you consider relocating their cage to, for example, the bottom of the case? This would allow a second 120mm fan on the front panel and improve your intake situation.

Finally, this case is absolutely /begging/ for a PSU chamber! You're replacing the PSU, which probably means you'll end up with one with a large fan in the bottom; this is fine. Mount it upside down in the PSU area [bear with me] and create a top chamber in your case by blocking off any openings into the top area. The intake for the PSU will now be through the front panel 5 1/4" bays, which you could either leave open or block with something that will allow the PSU to breathe. Obviously, you'll still need to get power cables into the lower chamber. The benefit of doing this is that your PSU will stay cooler, by only getting near ambient temp air, which helps it stay quieter. It can also mean that the PSU stays in the more efficient regions of its power curve.

So, to recap, try for 2 intake fans on the front panel. Consider separating the PSU chamber from everything else - if you're keen, consider how you could install all your drives up there, out of sight and cooled by roughly ambient air. Finally, rely on the intake fans to generate front to back airflow, and open up the back of the case as much as possible. If you go for 2 intake fanse, you could even compartmentalise further and have the lower one feed air into a GPU/expansion cards 'compartment' and the upper fan feed air across RAM and CPU. You'd need to remove any expansion area blanking panels you didn't need in order that the warm air had somewhere to move to.

Thoughts?

Thanks. I'm going to be relying on the PSU to move some hot air out of the case. Yeah, this will increase the units heat, but the PSU I plan to use shouldn't get too hot anyway. It SHOULD be a Corsair TX650. Older unit, but still new in box. I say SHOULD because my homie hasn't actually sold it to me yet, ha ha. It'll do a 600w load easy, and the rig will only need 350 or so under load. The GPU isn't powerful (7900GT), and the dual core s939 setup will most likely be a little OC'd, I don't see load on the PSU being that bad to need to stay as cool as possible. Especially since I'll be relying on the PSU to move hot air out.

I've already contemplated cutting the back panel for a 80mm fan. The stock size is for a 60mm fan, and those are loud and move zero air. At least a single 80mm I can have some decent options. I'll look into relocating the drive bay for two 120mm intakes in front, BUT, the case front panel would have to be cut to get the airflow, and I don't think I have anything to nicely cover the cut out so it doesn't look like trash.

I do have some hex mesh, but that will "go against the grain" if you will of the look of the case overall. I'll have to investigate deeper.

I also plan to do some hand-me-down PC part swaps soon. So this s939 machine might end up getting a huge 3 pci slot taking, GTX 260 w/ arctic accelero cooler. Making putting the drive bays in bottom of case near impossible if you look at the placement of the 16x PCI-e slot on that mobo in the case. Its all about limits. lol

And i think I've decided on green for sure. I'm trying to match the AMD green of the s939 CPU box I got sitting here. On Krylons website, I'm looking at an Emerald Green Gloss, (I think they called it.) Its a primer + color combo spray can. Probably pick that up today, and do a little work. Of course, pics will commence by tonight of any progress I make. I REALLY need to do cuts before paint, BUT, I can always skip painting things that need cuts, and paint everything that doesn't get cut, so w00t w00t. wink.gif

EDIT: Thanks for all the subs so far! This is no high end, sponsored build, but I appreciate everyone interested in watching a beige box go from bleh-to-beast, eh-to-extreme, meh-to-medievil... mwah ha haaaa

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post #14 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-18-2014, 07:37 AM
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When you get ready to paint, make sure you read/view some tutorials on it. Key points:

1) Sand with 400 grit for good adhesion
2) Degrease with isopropyl or other degreaser and handle with gloves from then on to prevent oils contamination
3) A separate primer can be a good idea for finding imperfections, but if painting over old paint is not required
4) First coat can be a dry "primer coat". Basically as the spray goes on it can appear dry almost immediately.
5) Carefully follow can directions for drying and recoating time.
6) After initial coat you want "wet coats". If the paint is going on as a mist and looks dryish almost immediately, the paint will not merge into a single mass and will not "self level" well. You'll get orangepeel effect. You want the paint sprayed just thick enough to form a liquid-looking sheet but not so thick that it runs. It's a narrow range there.
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post #15 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-18-2014, 02:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Any ideas on how I can fill in those ugly little squares on the front panel? They clash with the hex mesh. I was thinking some hobby putty. Put a coat of sealer over so it can bond that way, and just paint over? Any other ideas to fill that in? And make that panel all smooth and flush?


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post #16 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-18-2014, 05:52 PM
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If you want to be absolutely sure it won't crack, Evercoat everglass. Not cheap and need a face respirator with organic filter.

Other options:

Two-part epoxy for plastics
Hobby putty
Bondo
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post #17 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-18-2014, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwishaMane View Post

Thanks. I'm going to be relying on the PSU to move some hot air out of the case. Yeah, this will increase the units heat, but the PSU I plan to use shouldn't get too hot anyway. It SHOULD be a Corsair TX650. Older unit, but still new in box. I say SHOULD because my homie hasn't actually sold it to me yet, ha ha. It'll do a 600w load easy, and the rig will only need 350 or so under load. The GPU isn't powerful (7900GT), and the dual core s939 setup will most likely be a little OC'd, I don't see load on the PSU being that bad to need to stay as cool as possible. Especially since I'll be relying on the PSU to move hot air out.

I've already contemplated cutting the back panel for a 80mm fan. The stock size is for a 60mm fan, and those are loud and move zero air. At least a single 80mm I can have some decent options. I'll look into relocating the drive bay for two 120mm intakes in front, BUT, the case front panel would have to be cut to get the airflow, and I don't think I have anything to nicely cover the cut out so it doesn't look like trash.

I do have some hex mesh, but that will "go against the grain" if you will of the look of the case overall. I'll have to investigate deeper.

I also plan to do some hand-me-down PC part swaps soon. So this s939 machine might end up getting a huge 3 pci slot taking, GTX 260 w/ arctic accelero cooler. Making putting the drive bays in bottom of case near impossible if you look at the placement of the 16x PCI-e slot on that mobo in the case. Its all about limits. lol

No worries =) At the end of the day, it's your case and you should feel free to build it however you like! There's a wide world of different mods getting around that you can use for inspiration, I got started when I was looking for quiet, powerful computing and I guess that's what I lean towards.

Heh, I doubt the system will pull even that 350W; I ran a Phenom II X3 720 and HD4890, plus sundries, off a quality 300W PSU for a few years - check my posts over on SPCR for the craziness =P

Looks like you ended up cutting the front panel for the single fan anyway, I think Bondo is what I usually see people filling cracks and holes with. Good luck with your build!
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post #18 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-20-2014, 03:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhereg10 View Post

If you want to be absolutely sure it won't crack, Evercoat everglass. Not cheap and need a face respirator with organic filter.
Other options:
Two-part epoxy for plastics
Hobby putty
Bondo
+1 for two-part epoxy (I've Kind of fallen in love with the stuff since the 20€ LAN PC redface.gif ), as Long as it's not going to Flex too much once it's dry it'll work fine!
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post #19 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-20-2014, 10:51 AM
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Good start! And those slide out trays are SO NICE
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post #20 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-21-2014, 12:03 PM
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I'd use bondo for the front holes. You can pick it up at a parts house/auto store, and it's really easy to work with. GREAT log here! Really awesome!



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