Gigabyte G1 Gaming GeForce GTX 960 / 970 / 980 LED Swap - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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Gigabyte G1 Gaming GeForce GTX 960 / 970 / 980 LED Swap

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post #1 of 550 (permalink) Old 10-17-2014, 11:04 PM - Thread Starter
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This mod works on the Gigabyte G1 Gaming GeForce GTX 970 and 980 and will most likely work for the new 960. Have not got to look at the new extra leds on the 960 yet though so cant guarantee anything, but would assume its similar.

ORIGINAL POST AND PICTURES (Click to show)
Like many others the gigabyte gtx 970 seemed to be the best offering of the 970 line to me, the only problem was the blue led. I have found several topics with the same question about changing the led and some said it's not possible, I wasn't going to let that stop me though.

I figured it would be like Nvidia stock coolers where you might have to sand off the acrylic color coat. Nope. All clear. But I found it's possible to take out the windforce plate without removing the heatsink or anything. There are two VERY small screws to remove from the shroud and you can simply slide the led logo plate out.

dqanP1al.jpg
c0UWuNcl.jpg

It comes off with a little 2 pin connector from the pcb. I decided to tinker and carefully using an xacto you can peel up the adhesive back. This reveals 2 smd edge emitting leds and 2 resistors. They are also definitely blue leds.

UjYn3rdl.jpg
l06h7ejl.jpg
rHrWpF9l.jpg
qfARWDMl.jpg
Pb3Uwykl.jpg

This is with the strip vertical so you can tell the bottom led is facing towards camera and the top is emitting downwards
5K66TUxl.jpg

So we know now it's definitely possible and extremely easy, just need to find the right leds to replace them with. I have been searching for side emitting leds and can't find them individually so I was thinking about using a normal smd led and mounting it on it's side. Just need to figure out the size. Will post back with updates but if anyone has any input or can help me figure out the correct led to use it would be appreciated.

Like I said I know this isn't a big breakthrough but I've seen it posted about and thought I'd let everyone know it's possible. Now if we can get a second windforce plate it would be easy to swap it back to stock to return for warranty if needed.
White LED Swap (Click to show) Red LED Swap (Click to show) Green LED Swap (Click to show)



Thanks to @theSarcoplasmic for explaining it better than I did!


Places to buy LEDS

So far, there are:

If you have any information or other places to buy the correct LEDS from please PM me.


Written Instructions below. Sorry for lack of pictures on important parts.


Turn off power source, wait 15 seconds for power to die, unplug LED from GPU (near the W on WINDFORCE logo)


Remove the screws (2) on the logo. They're small.


Slide it out using tweezers.


The WINDFORCE logo comes out of its mount easily


Use an exacto knife to pry away the back of the popped out logo. The back is stuck on with a layer of adhesive, just peel it out.


Here's how the strips look, and the LEDs that will be replacing them.


No pictures on this part, but soldering is broken down into two steps: removing the LED and replacing the LED (duh). The following instructions only state how to remove ONE LED. Repeat instructions for the other side.

To remove the LED:
  1. Ensure that the strip is immobile (put something heavy in the middle of the plastic LED mount strip).
  2. Heat up your soldering iron.
  3. Using sand paper, sand away the oxidization on the copper tip of the iron. This will help it pass heat easier.
  4. Using a pair of tweezers, lift up the original LEDs so that there is "pressure" for them to be lifted away from the plastic strip.
  5. Very very gently, touch the soldering tip to one side of the electrode. Be careful not to touch the electrode itself, as this will ruin your LED. The solder should melt and the LED should lift away from the plastic strip.
  6. Switch electrodes and repeat. Congrats, you just removed 1 LED. Before you repeat with the other, place on new LED to ensure it works.


To replace the LED:
  1. Ensure again that your strip is immobile.
  2. You removed a bit of solder when you removed the previous LED, now it's time to replenish some of it: place the solder wire at the clumps of solder remaining on the plastic strip and touch lightly with your solder iron. Repeat until satisfactory. Now repeat for the other clump of solder.
  3. Using a pair of tweezers, position the new LED light over the original position of the LED. You don't need to worry about testing for polarity, because SMD electrodes have a "bottom" side that will rest more stable than the "top" side. Due to this, simply just position the LED facing the middle of the plastic strip (see picture above for reference).
  4. After aligning the electrodes of the LED to the solder, tap gently at the solder/electrode contact. The solder should melt around the electrode.
  5. Repeat for other electrode.
  6. Plug into your GPU, replug your system, and test!

Now repeat for the other electrode!

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If this thread has helped you leaving rep is always appreciated!!!

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post #2 of 550 (permalink) Old 10-18-2014, 11:59 AM
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I made an account just to subscribe and comment. This is exactly what I was looking for. Looking forward to updates! +rep
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post #3 of 550 (permalink) Old 10-18-2014, 12:19 PM - Thread Starter
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I made an account just to subscribe and comment. This is exactly what I was looking for. Looking forward to updates! +rep

Glad to help! Once I figure out the correct led it should be a simple swap. And if we can buy or somehow get a second windforce led piece you can have a custom one and stock you can switch back if needed return. I like that you don't even need to remove the heatsink, just the 2 small screws

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post #4 of 550 (permalink) Old 10-18-2014, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by No Hands 55 View Post

Glad to help! Once I figure out the correct led it should be a simple swap. And if we can buy or somehow get a second windforce led piece you can have a custom one and stock you can switch back if needed return. I like that you don't even need to remove the heatsink, just the 2 small screws

Also, If you were really crafty, you could even swap out the windforce plate. It seems like you could just get the right piece of clear acrylic and stencil out what you wanted and paint the rest black. And totally, the fact that getting to the LEDs with just 2 small screws makes this extremely convenient.
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post #5 of 550 (permalink) Old 10-18-2014, 04:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Legenjerry View Post

Also, If you were really crafty, you could even swap out the windforce plate. It seems like you could just get the right piece of clear acrylic and stencil out what you wanted and paint the rest black. And totally, the fact that getting to the LEDs with just 2 small screws makes this extremely convenient.

Yes you definitely could. The windforce is more or less beveled and protrudes but even if you wanted to make your own flat piece saying something else in sure it would look good. It would probably just need some black paint or reflective tape on the sides to keep the light inside the acrylic

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post #6 of 550 (permalink) Old 10-18-2014, 04:30 PM
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What are the values on those resistors? 1K?

I have a Newark catalog somewhere around here. I'll let you know if I find some part numbers.
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post #7 of 550 (permalink) Old 10-18-2014, 04:37 PM
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Looking forward to results, took my card apart last week to look at the LEDS and just ended up putting everything back together as I didn't want to mess with it atm. The interest for doing this seems pretty high. I wonder if Gigabyte would send an extra logo+led for warranty purposes if requested.

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post #8 of 550 (permalink) Old 10-18-2014, 04:49 PM
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Have been looking for this as well, just haven't gotten around to checking like you've done. Very nice job, and the fact that you don't have to take any heatsinks or anything off is really nice to hear. Rep for you!

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post #9 of 550 (permalink) Old 10-18-2014, 04:51 PM
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nice job. I agree the blue led is ugly and looks like something from 2007. even white would be better
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post #10 of 550 (permalink) Old 10-18-2014, 04:57 PM
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nice job. I agree the blue led is ugly and looks like something from 2007. even white would be better

I personally don't think it looks bad by itself, but some people (like me rolleyes.gif ) go with color themes on their rigs, which makes the blue LED interfere. I'm going to try with white LEDs since everything else is white in my build tongue.gif

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