[Build Log] Mac Classic Forever - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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[Build Log] Mac Classic Forever

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post #1 of 254 (permalink) Old 05-29-2016, 02:03 PM - Thread Starter
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WARNING AND DISCLAIMER

This is a build log, NOT a set of instructions for you to follow. Many of the activities described below are potentially dangerous and could result in damage to property, injury or death. The author will not be held liable for any consequences of attempting to reenact anything described in this build log.

BUILD LOG

I was given a Mac Classic for free on my recent vacation. It had been used as decoration in a cafe which was being refurbished. It turned out to have a faulty logic board.

With the four external Torx 15 screws removed, I held the back and shook it a little CRT down over a bed to get it to open.

I removed 8 more Torx 15 screws and unhooked two plastic clips to release the entire contents which I discarded because my luggage allowance was only 23kg and I was concerned about putting the CRT in the hold or getting it past security.

I picked up a keyboard and mouse at a computer recycling centre. They are working but use the Apple Desktop Bus protocol.



Back at home, my old iPad has broken glass where the corner is bent but the retina panel is still working.

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post #2 of 254 (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 01:50 PM - Thread Starter
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LCD temporarily placed behind front panel:

Considering milling the aperture to the right size and other options.
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post #3 of 254 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 08:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Disassembled keyboard and mouse:





Scrubbed plastic, rubber feet, cables and mouse ball with toothbrush and toothpaste and reassembled once thoroughly dry:



I've come to the conclusion that there's not much point doing this mod if I change the external appearance of the machine too much. I think the angular mouse, the bar at the back of the keyboard where the reset switch is and the coiled keyboard cable and perhaps the mouse cable joining to the keyboard are a key part of the style. So I want to retain these features.

The keyboard doesn't have the full complement of normal keys for a PC though and the mouse has just one button. There is also the ADB protocol issue.

I've considered replacing the mouse electronics with those of a modern mouse and cutting the one button in half with a hole for a scroll wheel which might work quite well. I've also thought about cutting up the keyboard shell and wrapping a modern keyboard with it which is going to be more difficult to get to look right owing to the different keyboard layout.

There are also ADB to USB converters on the market but they are expensive and I don't know if they solve the problem of missing function keys.

So, for the time being, my plan is to use a microcontroller to translate the ADB signals to PS/2 and keep the mouse and keyboard unmodified. If necessary, I can use the microcontroller to translate key combinations to get the missing keys. This is going to require a fair amount of effort though so it's only going to be worth doing if the rest of the mod turns out well.

The next big problem for aesthetics is the screen. Again, I considered modifying the face of the machine to fit the LCD panel better, either by milling the aperture or by cutting the case in half vertically and horizontally and stretching the whole case to fit but the curvature of the face will interfere in both cases.

It turns out that if I can configure the display to show 1920x1440 centred on the 2048x1536 panel with black borders then the display area will almost exactly fit the aperture. I need to wait until I have the displayport adapter for the panel to test this.
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post #4 of 254 (permalink) Old 06-10-2016, 09:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Hacksaw cuts through the plastic case easily.

Scored the top two tabs with a knife then snapped them off carefully.

Tidied up the edges with a little drum sander on the rotary tool and filed the corners. It's necessary to keep the rotary tool moving quickly over the edges. If you hold it in one place the plastic melts and it digs in.
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post #5 of 254 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 01:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Used some plastic from the picture frame of an award I was given at work to create the window for the front panel. Scored it with a knife and snapped it to shape over the edge of a table with a hammer then sanded the edges and coloured them black with a permanent marker. Drilled holes for mounting. The top two are used to trap the panel when the case is closed. Thge bottom three fit the existing mounting points in the front panel.



Used a dremel reinforced cutting disc on my press drill to cut the CRT mounting posts down flush with the corners of the aperture. Trimmed off unwanted clips from inside the front face by scoring and snapping. The window fits against the corners of the aperture.



The LCD panel lies flat on the window and will be mounted by screwing to the plastic window after I test it when I get the adapter.



There are a few faint scratches on the window from its past life as a picture frame. I had a go at polishing them out with toothpaste. Still needs a bit more work.
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post #6 of 254 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 02:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Mounted a 430 RMB Coolermaster AIO cooler (maybe a Seidon? Literal translation is Sea Magic) as far forwards as possible without interfering with the LCD panel. I aimed for about 3mm clearance because I think the Corsair H100i v2 is about 5mm wider and I wanted to leave that option open.



Currently mounted with screws/washers from a corsair cooler as the plastic is 4mm thick and the supplied screws are a bit short. Need to make a hole for air obviously. Screws looking ugly. Sort that out later maybe.

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post #7 of 254 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 02:35 AM
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Subbed, very curious biggrin.gif
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post #8 of 254 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 10:46 AM - Thread Starter
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I drilled out the rivets from a lian-li v351 motherboard tray and used it as a template to drill holes for mounting the motherboard. One of the pcie bracket slots is cut badly because I didn't clear the swarf away quickly enough and lost sight of what I was doing. The aluminium motherboard tray was soft so I couldn't tell I was cutting into it off track. Can probably fix it later with a little epoxy filler.

Mounting sockets are just screwed straight into the plastic without tapping it first. Seem to be OK.

Bolts may be temporary. Steve Jobs is spinning no doubt.



Test fitting some plausible components. This is a Zotac Z77 ITX (with air cooler still fitted) and a GTX 760.



Front fits on easily with the short GPU.



This PSU is a 260 RMB SFX Black Widow 400W. There are two options for locating the PSU. The position under the GPU as shown would fit a SFX-L PSU and let it get fresh air from the bottom and would keep the middle of the case clear for the cooler pipes but doesn't allow much clearance for air to get to the rear fan of the GPU. So maybe better for a blower GPU.



The other option for PSU placement would be in the middle of the rear panel (picture still shows the first PSU placement since I haven't made a rear panel yet). I think this may be better for the components shown and would certainly work for SFX PSUs and the thin pipes of the Seidon but maybe wouldn't work for SFX-L PSUs and the fat pipes of a Corsair cooler.

IO panel and PCIe support bracket is recycled from the lian-li motherboard tray after cutting it down to two slots.

Short GPU is pointing at the floppy slot wink.gif

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post #9 of 254 (permalink) Old 06-14-2016, 10:59 AM - Thread Starter
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I had previously been planning to install the HDDs in the rear corner vertically flat against the rear panel with a gap for airflow up between them from a fan on the bottom. There is a generous amount of space for that solution.

On playing around with the components, it turns out that if the HDDs are placed vertically flat against the side with only a small gap for air then there will be enough space to install a 120 exit fan and, behind it, enough space for a 50mm thick 120 radiator with a second fan for push pull. This orientation also leaves much more clearance along the length of the top of the GPU.

Something like this:


This seems like a good configuration because it will allow for a watercooled or oversized GPU.

In order to leave 2.5mm clearance between the 240 radiator and the HDD mounting it's going to be necessary to use a very narrow mounting mechanism for that side of the HDDs. I'm going to cut the heads off some shoulder bolts to make pins for the sides of the drives and craft a plate with holes for the pins to sit in. The rear panel will hold the other side and there will need to be brackets to maintain the separation of the rear panel and the drive mounting plate to keep the drives pressed up against the plate and the pins in the holes.

SSDs and the adapter for the LCD are the only remaining essentials to fit but I think it may also be possible to get in a slimline ODD horizontally between the display and the floppy slot.
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post #10 of 254 (permalink) Old 06-15-2016, 09:25 AM - Thread Starter
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I did some work to model the 120mm exit fan and radiator to see if it would really fit and the answer turns out to be that it would interfere with the mini-itx keep out zone for the cpu cooler area. I think there's still enough space for the Seidon water block but motherboards which are using that area for tall components are going to interfere with a 120 radiator in that position.

For example, I'm pretty sure it would be necessary to bend the VRM riser board on a maximus viii impact away from the motherboard in order to move it out of the way of the radiator.

The 120 exit fan on its own should be universally OK though because the keep out zone over the IO area is lower. Also motherboards without risers would have a good chance of being compatible.

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