[Build Log] The Big Red "Devastator" CaseLabs THW10 - Custom Powder Coating - Page 13 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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[Build Log] The Big Red "Devastator" CaseLabs THW10 - Custom Powder Coating

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post #121 of 538 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 11:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Modding the SSD Hot Swap Bays

I'm installing an Icy Dock SSD hot swap bay unit for my SSDs. Not that I'm planning to be swapping out drives very often. I like these because it's a very compact way to mount four SSDs. I'll probably only have two in there to start with, then I can easily just slide another SSD or two in if I want to expand the SSD storage later. Here it is stock out of the box.




This model has lockable drive mounts. They make one without the locks, but I've read where people had the drives eject while accidently bumping the front of the computer. So I went with the one with locks. The first thing I did was to remove the eight drive bay front pieces and took them down to my local chrome shop to have them chrome plated. This will give the front of the computer a little bling and tie into the "chrome" part of my theme.



There is one more complaint about this unit that I read in a review, and that was the two fans in the rear of the unit were noisy and that there was no way to adjust or turn down the fans. So I'm going to swap out the fans for some better ones. Take out the two screws on each side on the hot sway bay, and the circuit board unit with fans slides right out the back. I have removed all the stickers from the housing too.



I picked up some Noiseblocker BlackSilent 40mm Ultra Quiet Fans. You can see these fans come with purple fan blades... well that would clash with my color theme, so I have to paint them red biggrin.gif
Take the stickers off and remove the little plastic split washer retaining the fan blade.



Taped up the fans with a wire so I can paint both sides of the fans and then hang them.



That looks better painted and back together.



Unplug the stock two pin fans from the circuit board, remove two screws each and they slide right out.



Now break out the soldering iron.



I soldered the power and ground wires together here.



Heat shrink the solder joints and I just abandon the second fan RPM wire, as I only want the RPM signal from one fan.



I drilled a hole in the side of the housing so I can run the fan wiring outside the unit. The wire harness will come out right behind where the top screw mount is.



Now this will plug into Channel #8 on my Aquaeros! I'll set up a curve controller of some kind, probably based off a software sensor of the SSD temps.




If you look carefully you can see the lower left bay has an SSD mounted. Four screws on the bottom hold the SSD to the sliding tray.




One thing I did not realize when I bought the hot swap bay is that the pattern on the front is the same as the ventilation pattern on the front of the case just slightly smaller. Makes for a great match thumb.gif



From the inside, just plugs right into the Aquaero LT on top.



You may recall from earlier pictures that I originally was going to put the Aquaeros on the right side of the case, mainly because that side will be closer to where I sit. Plus I figured it would be easier to get to the hot swap bays since the computer will sit under my desk. But I never touch the front of my Aquaero on my current daily driver, and I'll rarely need to swap an SSD drive, if I do I can just roll the computer out a little bit. By putting the Aqueros on the left it will keep all of the fan wiring on that side and will look cleaner. So this is the finally lay out for the front.





I actually bought this hot swap bay before I even received the case, in fact it was the first thing I purchased for this build. I have worked on it in several different stages between doing other things over the last few months. Finally got er done thumb.gif



Devastator
(14 items)
Secondary Rig
(13 items)
CPU
i9-7900X
Motherboard
Asus Rampage Extreme VI
GPU
2x EVGA 2080Ti XC Gaming
RAM
G.Skill TridentZ Royal 32GB 3600 16-16-16-36
Hard Drive
Intel Optane SSD 480GB
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 EVO 2TB
Hard Drive
2x Seagate Iron Wolf Pro 12TB
Power Supply
EVGA SuperNOVA 1600 T2
Cooling
Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 Radiators 4x 560mm + 2x 280mm
Cooling
Aquacomputer Aquaero XT + Aquaero LT
Cooling
2x Aquacomputer D5s with custom chrome plated Bitspower mod kits
Cooling
2x Aquacomputer Aqualis 880ml Reservoirs with Nano Coating & Aquabus Interface
Case
CaseLabs THW10 with Custom Powder Coating
Operating System
Windows 10 Pro
CPU
Intel Core i7-4790K
Motherboard
Asus Maximus Extreme VI
GPU
EVGA GTX 980 ti Classified
RAM
G.SKILL Trident X Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3 2400
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 Pro 500GB
Hard Drive
Seagate Desktop HDD 4TB
Power Supply
EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2
Cooling
EK 420 Rad + EK 280 Rad
Case
Corsair 750D
Operating System
Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
Monitor
Acer XB271HU
Keyboard
Microsofte Natural Ergonomic 4000
Mouse
Logitech G502
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post #122 of 538 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 11:31 AM
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Going to probably sound dumb. It you re air testing Guage. Is there a check valve on the barn fitting. If not how after filling do you get it to hold pressure or do you just keep the air hose connected

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post #123 of 538 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 08:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emsj86 View Post

Going to probably sound dumb. It you re air testing Guage. Is there a check valve on the barn fitting. If not how after filling do you get it to hold pressure or do you just keep the air hose connected

You must have been on mobile as I don't have any "barn fitting" biggrin.gif

When air pressure testing I just use a bike pump and when it gets a little over 10 psi, I quickly remove the air pump. You will loose a little pressure, but just see where the needle is and make sure it does not drop. If you are testing something small that does not hold much air it's harder to do this.

My gauge seems to loose very slight pressure over several days even with no leaks. Usually if you have a leak, it will drop noticeably over an hour or two. My top two radiators now connected with one tube is not holding pressure. I've already tightened all the fittings but still does not hold air. I haven't had time to figure out what the problem is yet, but that is next on my list to do.



Devastator
(14 items)
Secondary Rig
(13 items)
CPU
i9-7900X
Motherboard
Asus Rampage Extreme VI
GPU
2x EVGA 2080Ti XC Gaming
RAM
G.Skill TridentZ Royal 32GB 3600 16-16-16-36
Hard Drive
Intel Optane SSD 480GB
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 EVO 2TB
Hard Drive
2x Seagate Iron Wolf Pro 12TB
Power Supply
EVGA SuperNOVA 1600 T2
Cooling
Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 Radiators 4x 560mm + 2x 280mm
Cooling
Aquacomputer Aquaero XT + Aquaero LT
Cooling
2x Aquacomputer D5s with custom chrome plated Bitspower mod kits
Cooling
2x Aquacomputer Aqualis 880ml Reservoirs with Nano Coating & Aquabus Interface
Case
CaseLabs THW10 with Custom Powder Coating
Operating System
Windows 10 Pro
CPU
Intel Core i7-4790K
Motherboard
Asus Maximus Extreme VI
GPU
EVGA GTX 980 ti Classified
RAM
G.SKILL Trident X Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3 2400
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 Pro 500GB
Hard Drive
Seagate Desktop HDD 4TB
Power Supply
EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2
Cooling
EK 420 Rad + EK 280 Rad
Case
Corsair 750D
Operating System
Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
Monitor
Acer XB271HU
Keyboard
Microsofte Natural Ergonomic 4000
Mouse
Logitech G502
▲ hide details ▲


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post #124 of 538 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 12:18 PM
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Thanks. Yea I was on mobile lol

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post #125 of 538 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 12:40 PM
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Subbed. You have WAY more patience than I do ... which is why this build looks as good as it does.
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post #126 of 538 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barefooter View Post

My top two radiators now connected with one tube is not holding pressure. I've already tightened all the fittings but still does not hold air. I haven't had time to figure out what the problem is yet, but that is next on my list to do.

Check your rotary seam at the fittings. Mix in some dish soap and water to get a bubbly consistency and smear some of it on the seam. The bubbly water will indicate where the air leak is, if there is some.

I used the same fittings in my build and found two of them to leak at the seam and had to get them RMA'd. sad-smiley-002.gif


Unit 02
(12 items)
CPU
Intel Core i7-8700K
Motherboard
ASUS Maximus X Apex
GPU
NVIDIA Titan Xp
RAM
GSkill Trident Z - 16GB
Hard Drive
Samsung 960 PRO - 512GB
Power Supply
PRIME Ultra 1000 Titanium
Cooling
EK-CoolStream PE 360
Case
Lian Li PC-O11
Monitor
Dell AW3418DW
Keyboard
Corsair K70 RGB
Mouse
SteelSeries Rival 300
Audio
AKG K7XX
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post #127 of 538 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 11:48 AM
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post #128 of 538 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 07:02 AM
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Be very careful pumping your rads up I went to 5-6 psi once in my entire loop and one of my ek rads blew open. Small hairline crack opened up at a seem. Now I use a dr drip pump it up to the .5 and if I get minimal air leakage over 24 hours I run it. I've noticed there is usually a bit of air leak. Once the fluid is in it creates A better seal on the orings and you're 99 percent of the time fine
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barefooter View Post

You must have been on mobile as I don't have any "barn fitting" biggrin.gif

When air pressure testing I just use a bike pump and when it gets a little over 10 psi, I quickly remove the air pump. You will loose a little pressure, but just see where the needle is and make sure it does not drop. If you are testing something small that does not hold much air it's harder to do this.

My gauge seems to loose very slight pressure over several days even with no leaks. Usually if you have a leak, it will drop noticeably over an hour or two. My top two radiators now connected with one tube is not holding pressure. I've already tightened all the fittings but still does not hold air. I haven't had time to figure out what the problem is yet, but that is next on my list to do.

Caselabs S8
With pedestal

Asus Maximus formula vII
Dual gtx 980tis
16gb gskillz ram ddr 1866
4790k 4ghz

Full ek nickel Cpu gpu ram blocks
Dual loop
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post #129 of 538 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trestles126 View Post

Be very careful pumping your rads up I went to 5-6 psi once in my entire loop and one of my ek rads blew open.

D5 pump creates up to 5 psi of pressure, some DDC models up to 10 psi. I'd rather have my loop blow up when pumped with air as opposed to water.
If a rad does not hold 5-6 psi, it's just a bad rad.
I don't air-test personally, but I don't see anything wrong with 10 psi that OP is using.

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post #130 of 538 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 08:23 AM
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Pump away ?

Caselabs S8
With pedestal

Asus Maximus formula vII
Dual gtx 980tis
16gb gskillz ram ddr 1866
4790k 4ghz

Full ek nickel Cpu gpu ram blocks
Dual loop
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