[Build Log] The Big Red "Devastator" CaseLabs THW10 - Custom Powder Coating - Page 14 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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[Build Log] The Big Red "Devastator" CaseLabs THW10 - Custom Powder Coating

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post #131 of 517 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 10:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Master Chicken View Post

Subbed. You have WAY more patience than I do ... which is why this build looks as good as it does.
Welcome and thank you!

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Originally Posted by chibi View Post

Check your rotary seam at the fittings. Mix in some dish soap and water to get a bubbly consistency and smear some of it on the seam. The bubbly water will indicate where the air leak is, if there is some.

I used the same fittings in my build and found two of them to leak at the seam and had to get them RMA'd. sad-smiley-002.gif.
I saw this on your build log and the Bitspower Owners Gallery... and thought to myself "shoot I just ordered some of those fittings, hope mine don't leak". I did use some soapy water the day before you posted this, I just did not have time to post these pictures until now.



It turns out one of those fittings is leaking at the seam just like yours mad.gif
After I removed that fitting, and turning the threaded part, it felt rough, not smooth like the other fittings. I don't remember it doing that when I put the fitting in. Luckily I have some extras.

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Originally Posted by lever2stacks View Post

Wow this is amazing work. I can't believe I've missed this thread subbed!!!!!
Thanks man glad to have you! I've been drooling over the glass tube work you are doing on your build! Made me seriously consider using glass tube here, but I think I'll wait for a future build that is on a smaller scale before I tackle that.

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Originally Posted by Trestles126 View Post

Be very careful pumping your rads up I went to 5-6 psi once in my entire loop and one of my ek rads blew open. Small hairline crack opened up at a seem. Now I use a dr drip pump it up to the .5 and if I get minimal air leakage over 24 hours I run it. I've noticed there is usually a bit of air leak. Once the fluid is in it creates A better seal on the orings and you're 99 percent of the time fine
Thanks for the heads up Trestles! I appreciate it. I have extensive automotive experience and these radiators are basically just like small car radiators. Automotive radiators are under approximately 15 psi all the time, so I feel that 10 psi is plenty safe. Sounds like you had a bad radiator on the one that cracked at the seam.

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Originally Posted by cmpxchg8b View Post

D5 pump creates up to 5 psi of pressure, some DDC models up to 10 psi. I'd rather have my loop blow up when pumped with air as opposed to water.
If a rad does not hold 5-6 psi, it's just a bad rad.
I don't air-test personally, but I don't see anything wrong with 10 psi that OP is using.
Yes... I'd rather blow it up now than find out later. If it holds 10 psi I think you are good thumb.gif


I'm really glad I found this leak now, it will be much easier to fix the issue now. This is exactly why I like to air pressure test sub-assemblies as I go!
I haven't had a chance to change the fitting yet, but I think I bought a half dozen of those. Hopefully the rest are ok.


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post #132 of 517 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 10:17 AM
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Good that you found the leak.

Seeing as you replaced all those white plastic caps that come on the SR2MPs, is a good thing as well, they are notorious for having too soft an o ring material and it deforms or shreds and they leak tiny amounts that can be quite the challenge to find.

Also, periodically check your air tester . . . the adapter fittings for G1/4 to NPT are also known bad actors, even with half a roll of pipe tape.

D.
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post #133 of 517 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Good that you found the leak.

Seeing as you replaced all those white plastic caps that come on the SR2MPs, is a good thing as well, they are notorious for having too soft an o ring material and it deforms or shreds and they leak tiny amounts that can be quite the challenge to find.

Also, periodically check your air tester . . . the adapter fittings for G1/4 to NPT are also known bad actors, even with half a roll of pipe tape.

D.

Not to mention the plastic gets stripped at the hex hole after one or two times of removing them. Making it impossible to tight them to the radiator. Atlease they give you stop plugs unlike certain companies.

The first thing I did with my build was replace all the stop plugs on SR2MP with Bitspower low profile plugs(I did clean Performance-pcs, Dazmode & Highflow.nl out).

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post #134 of 517 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 03:12 PM
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post #135 of 517 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 09:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Good that you found the leak.

Seeing as you replaced all those white plastic caps that come on the SR2MPs, is a good thing as well, they are notorious for having too soft an o ring material and it deforms or shreds and they leak tiny amounts that can be quite the challenge to find.

Also, periodically check your air tester . . . the adapter fittings for G1/4 to NPT are also known bad actors, even with half a roll of pipe tape.

D.
I didn't even know the O-rings were known to be soft. Mine were black, but one look at them and I said there's no way I'm using these. They did make for great paint plugs though smile.gif
When I first put the air pressure tester together, I did have to use quite a bit of Teflon tape and really, really tighten the fittings to get it to seal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Revan654 View Post

Not to mention the plastic gets stripped at the hex hole after one or two times of removing them. Making it impossible to tight them to the radiator. Atlease they give you stop plugs unlike certain companies.

The first thing I did with my build was replace all the stop plugs on SR2MP with Bitspower low profile plugs(I did clean Performance-pcs, Dazmode & Highflow.nl out).
Yes I've stripped a few of the stock stop plugs too. It almost seems like the material is softer on some than others.
I think I ordered 35 of the Silver shining low profile stop plugs from PPCs and they were able to fulfil that, although they had two different emblems on them.


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This is pretty sweet, the grey and red contrast is slick! Sub
Thanks and welcome aboard!


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post #136 of 517 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 09:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Installing the EVGA SuperNOVA 1600 T2 Power Supply

What power supply should I get? This was one of the easier decisions for me to make. This build deserves the biggest, baddest, power supply I can get!

Could I get by with a smaller power supply? Probably, but if I decide to run three or four graphics cards, I'll still have enough power. Plus I've been the guy that buys three power supplies for the same computer... every time I'd upgrade, I'd have to buy another bigger power supply too. That's not happening here, so the EVGA SuperNOVA 1600 T2 is the obvious choice for me.



Of course it comes in a nice bag rolleyes.gif



A whole bunch of cables I'll probably never use.



The grey striping around the fan opening and on the label match the interior of the case pretty good too thumb.gif




Nine total VGA and five Sata - Peripherals. Plenty of power here!



Mounted in the case. The fan does not even turn on until it is drawing over 600 watts!



I would really like to take this power supply apart, take the fan apart and paint the fan blade red to match the rest of the fans! The fan is not a standard fan and not easy to remove from what I read on the Thermal Bench review.
Plus having a ten year warranty is pretty nice to have. So for now I'm leaving the power supply stock.



Here's how it looks with the outer panels on.





Now I can start making some power cables. I need power to the Aquaeros, the Farbwerk, the Splittys to power the fans, and the SSD hot swap bay to start with.


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post #137 of 517 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 11:06 AM
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I always put a on off valve right before the gauge filled system up then noted pressure turned on off valve to off then rechecked 24 hours later and turned to on gauges do tend to leak from what I've found.

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post #138 of 517 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 11:07 AM
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A whole bunch of cables I'll probably never use.



Those cables are pretty high quality, They use JMT parts(Which are some best Connectors you can use). Plus the terminals are gold plated not tin plated. Most sleeving shops only use HWT brand & sell tin terminals, HWT are mediocre at best. It's why most of my sleeving supplies are imported from other countries. Yet these are still higher quality then what CableMod tries to sell you in there 100 dollar+ Kits.

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post #139 of 517 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 11:07 AM
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Looks amazing dig the double doors

Caselabs S8
With pedestal

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Dual gtx 980tis
16gb gskillz ram ddr 1866
4790k 4ghz

Full ek nickel Cpu gpu ram blocks
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post #140 of 517 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 02:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barefooter View Post

I didn't even know the O-rings were known to be soft. Mine were black, but one look at them and I said there's no way I'm using these. They did make for great paint plugs though smile.gif
When I first put the air pressure tester together, I did have to use quite a bit of Teflon tape and really, really tighten the fittings to get it to seal.
Yes I've stripped a few of the stock stop plugs too. It almost seems like the material is softer on some than others.
I think I ordered 35 of the Silver shining low profile stop plugs from PPCs and they were able to fulfil that, although they had two different emblems on them.

I'm picking up a heck of a lot of tips off your build.

I ordered Barrow matt black low profile stop plugs for the same purpose; to replace all those dodgy stops that came with the rads.

Virtually identical, no emblems, Less than half the price of the Bitspower equivalents in my part of the world.

I am using a similar drain solution to yours, except I'm also coming outside the (TH10A) case to link the left and right rads (a bit like you did to link your top rads) and I'm having a single quick disconnect come off that link. So mine will only have a single 'tailpipe'. I'll do pics when I finally think of a name and start a build log.
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