Working on the Tubing
I do have three small pieces of tubing previously installed. One on top of the case connecting the two top radiators, one down in front connecting the two front radiators, and the one to the flow meter so I could make the wiring to it.
I've had most of the loop planned out in my head for months now. The only section I wasn't quite sure about is the final return line, so I'm going to work on that section first. I'll detail the loop flow later.
I'm not going to be doing any bends (although I reserve the right to change my mind
), just straight Bitspower 16mm Acrylic tubing and Bitspower EML16 fittings with various 90s, and tees. Rather than using a hack saw I bought a little power cut-off saw to cut the tubing with. If you search "TruePower 919 High Speed Mini Miter/Cut-Off Saw",
you will find one. I can't remember who, but someone here on OCN recommended this saw.
This roll of double back tape is the perfect height to support the end of the tubing to keep it level. I use masking tape to easily mark where I want to make the cut. The saw does not quite cut all the way through the 16mm tubing, just cut down as far as you can and then loosen the little vise and turn the tube with the saw still running.
Here's the cut end. The nice thing is if you need to cut the tube shorter, with this saw you can cut just a saw blade thickness off of the end if you need to. This saw really works great!
I also bought this Henco deburrer tool. It's supposed to clean up the end and make it smooth. I could not find this tool anywhere in the States, so I had to order this from someplace in Europe and the shipping was more than the tool cost!
I like good tools and don't mind paying up for them, but this tool was a complete disappointment! The very first time I tried it I knew I wasted my money and would not use it again
Recently PrimoChill came out with this tool PrimoChill RFB Rigid Tubing Finishing Bit
Side by side comparison of both tools.
This PrimoChill tool is awesome! It quickly and easily makes a nice smooth finish with no sanding required at all. At first I used it in a drill, but found that at times it would slightly score the inside of the tubing where the bearing is. It works fine with the drill, however I found that it works quite well just turning the tool by hand. I even use the tool by hand to shave a couple of millimeters off the end of the tubing to adjust the length shorter.
The one on the left is from the first tool, it really leaves a rough ugly finish that would certainly need sanding. The one on the right is from using the PrimoChill tool, leaving a nice smooth finish with zero sanding.
In this picture on the far left tube I used the reamer tool that comes in the Monsoon bending kits. Before I got the PrimoChill tool, I was using that reamer, and then sanding it smoother. This one has not been sanded yet.
I highly recommend the PrimoChill tool! It's faster, easier to use, and leaves the best finish on the end
Remember that even though I have two reservoirs, two pumps, and six radiators, it is going to be one large loop. In this picture, the two short tubes into the reservoir with tee fittings will tie the two reservoirs together. The one on the right goes to the pass through and will connect to the reservoir on the other side, and will be the feed line to the pumps. The one on the left will go through the case opening to the other reservoir, and will connect to the flow meter for the return line. That one on the left is sagging down at the rotary fitting from the weight, don't worry it will be level before I'm done.
Here is the return line finished. With these flow meters you should not use a 90 degree fitting connected directly to the flow meter as this can cause erratic readings. Also there should be a length of straight tube both in and out of the flow meter for best results.
At the top of the vertical tube I used two 90 degree fittings to off-set the vertical tube to the rear. Otherwise if would have run directly into where the feed line is going to go. Also this allowed me to use a 90 degree fitting directly into the tee fitting at the bottom.
Now from the return side tee on the left, the next tube goes through the opening in the middle of the case connecting to the reservoir on the other side.
Here it is from the other side of the case.
Feed line from the reservoirs to the pump inlet installed.
Now you can notice that the pass through fitting for the feed line was placed there to be both level with the reservoir inlet as well as spaced the same distance from the reservoir as the return line on the other side
When I was younger I used to work with my Dad who was a carpenter/contractor, and he would always make sure everything was level, plumb, and square. Ever since then when things aren't level or are out of square it drives me nuts! In fact when I look at other builds, that is the first thing that I notice is if something isn't level, or straight up and down.
I put all of this section together without the collars for the EML16 fittings while I fitted everything. I spent quite a bit of time shortening and adjusting the tubing lengths in order to make them all level, vertical, and perpendicular. Then put the collars on and tightened them all up.
For this side I still need to do the line out of the pumps and into the rear inside lower radiator port, and one long tube from the outer lower radiator port to the front radiator on this side.