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[Build Log] The Big Red "Devastator" CaseLabs THW10 - Custom Powder Coating

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post #241 of 520 (permalink) Old 01-06-2018, 04:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Asus Aura Sync RGB Software Demo

I've been playing around with the Asus Aura Sync software. I've seen where some people are having problems with this software, particularly with the RAM portion. This is a fairly new version of the Aura Sync software that has only been out for a month now. It has worked perfectly for me, however I have not used it much, and I don't currently have much other software installed either.

I'm going to show you some screen shots of the software, and some videos of what the RGBs on the motherboard and RAM look like in each different mode. This is software version 1.05.28 from 12-6-17 downloaded from the Rampage VI Extreme support page. I'm still set-up on the test bench here. I've propped the motherboard up on an angle, and used a tripod for all these pictures and videos.

Let's start with showing you pictures of the single colors. You can click on the red, green, or blue boxes to the left of the color wheel to go directly to those colors. You can also click anyplace around the color wheel, or drag the little circle on the color wheel where you want it. There are also sliders to control the "Saturation" and "Brightness" levels. I left these maxed for all the pictures and videos here.



Here's the motherboard with all the LEDs off and just room lights on.



All of the rest of the pictures and videos in this post are taken in complete darkness with the monitor turned off. Here are the "Static" colors starting with red. There is a good chance that once my build is complete that I'll just leave everything red like this. The RAM is not quite as bright in person as it looks like in these pictures, it's actually more uniform across the motherboard.



Moving around the color wheel here the next color is yellow, although it looks more like white here.



Green



Light Blue



Dark Blue



This is in the Purple area of the color wheel.



Finally the Pink color. The purple and pink look much better in person.



Here is White, this is the one picture I turned the "Saturation" level all the way down as that's the only way to get white.




The right edge of the motherboard lights up too.



Now that we've seen all the Static colors. Here's what the defaults lighting looks like before you change anything. You can always just click the "Default" button to return to this mode. All of the videos below are just over 20 seconds each.




The first lighting option listed on the left side of the software is "Breathing" with a single color. I use red for all the single color videos here. You can pick any color you would like.




Besides the "Single" color option if you click on the drop down arrow there is also an option to adjust "By Areas". Seven different modes have this option. This screen shot shows the top part of the long list of areas you can adjust individually.



Here's the complete list of areas you can adjust:
Back IO-1
Back IO-2
Back IO-3
PCIE-1
PCIE-2
PCIE-3
PCIE-4
RGB strip-1
RGB strip-2
Center
PCH-1
PCH-2
PCH-3
PCH-4
Back Plate-1
Back Plate-2
Back Plate-3
Back Plate-4
Back Plate-5
Back Plate-6
Back Plate-7
DRAM1 1 (there must be five zone per RAM stick)
DRAM1 2
DRAM1 3
DRAM1 4
DRAM1 5
DRAM2 1
DRAM2 2
DRAM2 3
DRAM2 4
DRAM2 5
DRAM3 1
DRAM3 2
DRAM3 3
DRAM3 4
DRAM3 5
DRAM4 1
DRAM4 2
DRAM4 3
DRAM4 4
DRAM4 5
Add Strip

As you can see with all these different options for all the different zones, that your options are virtually unlimited. Plus you can add other Asus Aura Sync compatible peripherals like mice, keyboards, water blocks, additional RGB strips, and even some monitors have lighting behind them that you can control with this software.


Here is the "Color Cycle" mode. There are no options here it just cycles through all of the colors.




"Rainbow" is the next mode. This is with "Color Cycle" selected. You can adjust the speed with the slider at the bottom. The slider only stops at five points between slow and fast.






"Rainbow" also has the "Gradient" option on the drop down menu. Here you can select all or part of the colors on the color wheel. I uses zero on the "Start Hue" and 359 on the "End Hue" box, it would not take 360. This will use all of the colors. Also there is an option to click the "Reverse" box to make it go around the color wheel the other way.






This is the "Comet" mode with a single color of red at medium speed.






The "Comet" in Gradient mode. This is the only video where I slid the speed slider all the way to fast, and using the full color spectrum again. I know the screen shot shows the speed is set to medium, but the video was shot at the fastest speed. The "By Area" is available here as well in the drop down menu.






"Flash and Dash" is the next mode. This is with a single color of red again. "Gradient" and "By Area" are in the drop down menu.






The "Flash and Dash", "Comet", and "Rainbow" modes include a "Sequence" button that allows you to adjust the sequence of the LEDs. I'm sure if you add more items that are controllable they will appear in this list. Here's what it looks like it you click on the "Sequence" button.



This is the "Wave" mode in red. "By Area" is available here too.






Here is the "Glowing Yoyo" mode in red and this has "By Area" adjustment as well.






"Starry-Night" mode is next, also adjustable with the "By Area" mode if desired.






"Strobing" mode is the last mode with "By Area" in the drop down menu. This is just the single red color again.






Under the "Smart" mode you can adjust the lighting to work off of temperature, going from green to yellow to red according to the temperatures you set.



The "Smart" mode also has a drop down list that allows you to also use "CPU Loading" and set the percentages of CPU load that you want to use.



Here's the "Music" mode. I did not spend much time with this mode. Nothing really happens if no music or sound is playing. You can choose from Rock, Hip Hop, Party, Sleep, Funk, Romance, Jazz or Normal, and the RGBs change with the music playing.



If you click on the "Shut Down" tab you can set a different lighting scheme for when your computer is turned off, including turning it off completely which is what I'll do.



I hope you enjoyed this Asus Aura Sync RGB software demo. As I've stated before I'm not a big RGB fan myself, but it was fun playing around with all these different options. I think there is something here for just about everyone. If you really don't like the lighting you can turn it off completely. I would have purchased this motherboard even if it had no RGB lighting, but since it does I'll be using it in some fashion.

Next I'll be taking the test bench apart and putting the motherboard tray back in the case so I can start on the all the power cables for the motherboard.



Edit:
I have found that the Aura software will lose it's saved settings after restarting the computer. After searching around I've found this is a common problem that is fixed if you go into the bios and turn off "Fast Boot" it will then use the last saved settings upon restart. I verified this did fix the problem. Another thing I'd like to see is a way to save different lighting profiles. Hopefully they will add that feature in a future update.


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post #242 of 520 (permalink) Old 01-07-2018, 12:38 AM
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I like the idea of a breathing effect, but I don't like how it's implemented, it's not smooth enough.

I kept static in my conf
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post #243 of 520 (permalink) Old 01-07-2018, 01:02 AM
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good work wink.gif

With the R6E, I chose the color I wanted with the soft AURA, then uninstalled the soft and it works fine
Will the G.Skill RGB also work ?

Sorry for my english
tistou's config
(19 items)
CPU
i9 7980x
Motherboard
Asus Rampage VI Extreme
GPU
EVGA RTX 2080ti XC Ultra
RAM
G.Skill Trident Z @4000 C17
Hard Drive
Intel Optane 900P
Hard Drive
Samsung 970 EVO
Power Supply
Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium 1000W
Cooling
Alphacool VPP755 x2
Cooling
Mod Pump Bitspower
Cooling
Mod Pump Ek Waterblock
Cooling
Ek Velocity
Cooling
Waterblock EVGA Hydro Copper XC
Cooling
MORA 3 9x120
Case
Lian Li A77FA
Operating System
Windows 10 Pro x64
Monitor
Dell U2417H
Keyboard
Logitech Illuminated K740
Mouse
Logitech MX Revolution
Audio
Asus Xonar Phoebus
▲ hide details ▲
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post #244 of 520 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 01:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubijub View Post

I like the idea of a breathing effect, but I don't like how it's implemented, it's not smooth enough.

I kept static in my conf
Yes I agree on the Breathing effect. I think the Starry-Night is too slow too, even when turned up all the way fast. I will probably stick to static red myself.


Quote:
Originally Posted by tistou77 View Post

good work wink.gif

With the R6E, I chose the color I wanted with the soft AURA, then uninstalled the soft and it works fine
Will the G.Skill RGB also work ?
Thanks. I'm not sure if the G.Skill RGB ram will still work the same without the software since I have not tried it. I plan on keeping the software installed.


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post #245 of 520 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 02:00 PM
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G.Skill RGB ram need the software, I tested wink.gif

Sorry for my english
tistou's config
(19 items)
CPU
i9 7980x
Motherboard
Asus Rampage VI Extreme
GPU
EVGA RTX 2080ti XC Ultra
RAM
G.Skill Trident Z @4000 C17
Hard Drive
Intel Optane 900P
Hard Drive
Samsung 970 EVO
Power Supply
Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium 1000W
Cooling
Alphacool VPP755 x2
Cooling
Mod Pump Bitspower
Cooling
Mod Pump Ek Waterblock
Cooling
Ek Velocity
Cooling
Waterblock EVGA Hydro Copper XC
Cooling
MORA 3 9x120
Case
Lian Li A77FA
Operating System
Windows 10 Pro x64
Monitor
Dell U2417H
Keyboard
Logitech Illuminated K740
Mouse
Logitech MX Revolution
Audio
Asus Xonar Phoebus
▲ hide details ▲
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post #246 of 520 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 06:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Installing the Aquasuite Software and preliminary set up

I decided go ahead and install the Aquasuite software, and update all the firmware before I take the test bench down. Remember awhile back I reflashed the Aquaero XT and Aquaero LT with another computer, then just a few days later they came out with new Aquasuite software and new firmware. Murphy's law right rolleyes.gif

The newest version of Aquasuite is 2017-3.2. It will not work with any Aquaeros or other devices unless you update the firmware on all connected devices. You also can't install the software if it does not detect any Aquaero devices first. I rolled the cart over close to my bench, and hooked up a long USB cable from the motherboard on the test bench to my Hubby7 USB splitter in the case. All of my components are already hooked up to the Hubby7.



Close up of the Hubby7 on the right which has the Aquaero XT, both D5 pumps, the flow meter, the fill level sensor in the reservoir and a farbwerk connected to it. Just to the left of the Hubby7 is a Splitty9 which is the Aquabus splitter.



I have a separate power supply on the test bench, and the Aquaeros and fans are being powered by the EVGA 1600 T2 power supply in the case, so the USB cable is all that's needed to connect everything up.



The Aquasuite software installed no problem. Next is firmware updates which requires a five pin USB cable connected to each device. All of my components are wired with both USB and Aquabus cables already. In fact this is the reason I made custom cables for both the Aquabus and the five pin USB cables, so that I can easily perform firmware updates in the future without having to go around and hook up an extra USB cable to all of the various devices. Many people remove the USB cables once everything is set up and just use the Aquabus cables for control. It's absolutely fine to leave both Aquabus and the USB cables connected like I am doing. This newest software will use the Aquabus automatically, where older versions of the software required you to select USB or Aquabus control.

I first flashed the Aquaero XT from the Aquaero>System tab, click on "Firmware Update" then click on the "Update firmware now" button . This screenshot is after it has already been flashed.




Setting up the Aquaero LT as a Slave Unit
I've used an Aquaero XT for years now, but this is my first time using an Aquaero LT as a slave unit. After I set up this Aquaero LT as a slave unit the first time, I used the touch screen of the Aquaero XT to set up and test all eight channels because I had no software to work with. It's much harder and more time consuming to use the touch screen!

Since this Aquaero LT is already flashed into a slave unit, the firmware cannot be updated without performing a factory reset first. This is going to require four jumpers for the temp sensor pins. I did not have any jumpers on hand but I had a bunch of extra temp sensors, so I took four temp sensor, cut them down short, twisted the wires together and put a piece of heat shrink on the end. Now I have jumpers thumb.gif



The set up for a slave unit is a little tricky the first time, here's the steps I took:

1. Turn the computer off and turn the power supply off with the switch on the back of it, or unplug the power supply from the wall. This removes all power from the USB cables.

2. Disconnect all the wiring from the Aquaero LT except for the molex power.

3. Place the four jumpers on temp sensors 5, 6, 7, and 8.

4. Turn the power back on, you will hear a loud beep noise, leave it powered on for a few minutes.

5. Power down the power supply again.

6. Remove the jumpers from the temp sensor pins.

7. Connect a USB cable to the motherboard or the Hubby7 if you are using one. Be careful to connect the USB cable in the correct orientation, it can be connected backwards! The pin #1 has an arrow on the connector body and has a red wire to it.

8. Turn the power supply back on, start the computer, and then start the Aquasuite software.

9. Now there will be another Aquaero Tab on the left pane of Aquasuite, perform the firmware update in the System Tab like described above.

10. Next on the same Aquaero>System Tab there is another section at the bottom called "Expansion Devices", this is where you reflash the Aquaero LT into a slave unit. Press the "Reprogram Device" button and in about a minute it is flashed into a slave unit.

Another warning states the slave unit will not be recognized by USB any longer and will only work over the Aquabus connected to the main Aquaero XT. Also keep in mind that the only ports that will work on the slave unit are the four fan channels, the temp sensor inputs, and now you can add a second flow meter to the Aquabus low port. All other outputs are now disabled.

Power everything down again, you can disconnect the USB cable as it is unusable. Connect the Aquabus high port to the Hubby7 or the Aquabus high port on the Aquaero XT. Then you can connect your wiring for the extra fan channels to the Aquaero LT. This newest software will allow you to add a third Aquaero for up to 12 channels of control if you need it. Previously you could only have one slave unit.

Now back to the Aquasuite software, if you go back and click on the second Aquaero Tab in the left column it is going to show a USB symbol with a red X through it. The right hand pane shows "The device has no USB connection or is not recognized by the system". You can go ahead and click on the button to "Remove device from aquasuite" as there is no use for that tab anymore.

Click on the Aquaero>Aquabus tab on the left. This will should show you all the connected aquabus devices. The slave unit will show up as "aquaero expansion 1" if you click on that is shows all the available data sources. Here's a screenshot that also shows my two Aquacomputer D5 pumps, the Aqualis XT reservoir fill level sensor, and the Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor. The buttons show mps 1 through mps 4. I don't think there is a way to rename them on this page, if so I can't find it.



While the Aquabus Tab page shows what's available on the Aquabus circuit, if you actually want to use the extra four fan channels on the slave unit, there is one more step. Click on the Aquaero>Controllers tab on the left pane of Aquasuite. Initially it will only show the four fan channels on the Aquaero XT, click on the plus sign next to "Outputs" in the upper right hand corner. This adds fan channel #5, go ahead and add three more outputs for a total of all eight fan channels. This screenshot shows all eight channels.



Let's move to the Aquaero>Fans tab. It should now show all eight channels on the top of this page. Under "Advanced Setting" you can change the fans to PWM control.



Clicking on Fan channel 6 here I'm using "Powered Control", this is for the little SSD hot swap bay fans. If you open the "Settings" section here you can rename the fans, I left the default Fan # and added to the end of the name.




Flashing the D5 Pumps, Fill Level Sensor and Flow Meter Firmware

This will be a much easier process than the Aquaero LT! All four MPS device were added to the Aquasuite software automatically for me since everything was already wired up. This is the MPS>System Tab for Pump #1, it automatically selected the correct "Device Type", just click on the "Update Firmware Now" button to update the firmware. Then I edited the name in the "Device Description" box. That will now show on the Tab in the left pane.



For Pump #2 it was the same procedure except I also changed the "Aquabus Address" from 12 to 13 on the MPS>System Tab. All MPS device install to address 12 by default.



Click on the MPS>System Tab for the Flow Meter. The correct "Device Type" was automatically selected again. Update the firmware, then I changed the Aquabus address to 14, and changed the "Device Description" done!



The MPS>System tab for the fill level sensor is similar. Now here the "Device Type" automatically selected one of the flow meters, so I changed that to "Aqualis Fill Level". Then I updated the firmware, changed the Aquabus address to 15, and edited the "Device Description".



Now shut the computer off, power down the power supply, and restart. Here's what the Aquaero>Puimps Tab now looks like.



I still have to set up the Sensors, Fan Curves, and a few other things, and I'll cover all that stuff at a later time. At least now I'm pretty well set up when I get to the point of putting water in the system and firing it up. This post ended up being far longer than I was planning on smile.gif


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post #247 of 520 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 03:02 AM
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There are 2 things to watch out with controllers

A/ if you use a controller, the controller will only use the range defined in your fan/pump settings
Eg : if your fan settings are Min: 50%, Max: 100%, then if you set your controller at 50%, it will de facto set it at 50% of the range, ie 75%. If you want the controller to truly use the whole range, you need to set the minimum at 0%

B/ if you use set points, when the system is cold, the AQ will go as far as shut down the fans (as there is no need), which is nice. However, you may want to have one or more of your fan groups that are always on, even at little speed, to cool stuff like SSD, memory, etc...

The trick to accomodate this is the following :
- On the fan setup :
* set the minimum as the minimum you want always on. For instance I have set mines so that my fans blowing on the mobo run at 500rpm minimum
* tick the box "Hold minimum power" ==> this is the key : this will force the fans to be up at min speed, even if the controller wants to shut them down

This way I have my 3 fan groups controlled by the same set point, with one group with "hold mimimum power" :
- the min power group is powered all the time
- the other groups are turned off most of the time, and a little bit on when the Delta T° reaches close to 9° (and mostly on under load, obviously)
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post #248 of 520 (permalink) Old 01-18-2018, 06:05 PM
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Rampage VI Extreme is SICK motherboard.
Every year Rampage Extreme is nicer and nicer.

You should left case in original color.
Fit better with hardware and mobo but this is amazing build anyway.
I would build for self Grey or Gunmetal Caselabs S8s with bigger budget.
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post #249 of 520 (permalink) Old 01-19-2018, 09:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tistou77 View Post

G.Skill RGB ram need the software, I tested wink.gif
Ok good to know and good thing I was planning to keep the software installed smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlada011 View Post

Rampage VI Extreme is SICK motherboard.
Every year Rampage Extreme is nicer and nicer.

You should left case in original color.
Fit better with hardware and mobo but this is amazing build anyway.
I would build for self Grey or Gunmetal Caselabs S8s with bigger budget.
Yes it's definitely a very nice motherboard! Very happy with it so far.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubijub View Post

There are 2 things to watch out with controllers

A/ if you use a controller, the controller will only use the range defined in your fan/pump settings
Eg : if your fan settings are Min: 50%, Max: 100%, then if you set your controller at 50%, it will de facto set it at 50% of the range, ie 75%. If you want the controller to truly use the whole range, you need to set the minimum at 0%

B/ if you use set points, when the system is cold, the AQ will go as far as shut down the fans (as there is no need), which is nice. However, you may want to have one or more of your fan groups that are always on, even at little speed, to cool stuff like SSD, memory, etc...

The trick to accomodate this is the following :
- On the fan setup :
* set the minimum as the minimum you want always on. For instance I have set mines so that my fans blowing on the mobo run at 500rpm minimum
* tick the box "Hold minimum power" ==> this is the key : this will force the fans to be up at min speed, even if the controller wants to shut them down

This way I have my 3 fan groups controlled by the same set point, with one group with "hold mimimum power" :
- the min power group is powered all the time
- the other groups are turned off most of the time, and a little bit on when the Delta T° reaches close to 9° (and mostly on under load, obviously)

Good tips there Jubijub thank you! I've had an Aquaero XT in my current daily use computer for years now, but it's a much simpler set up, just fans and a flow meter. I last set up that Aquaero/Aquasuite several years ago, and once it was set up how I wanted it, I just let it run and never really mess around with it.

So it's been a few years since I've gone through setting a new one up, and the software is a little different now, plus this is a far more complex set up. I'm still learning new things about Aquasuite software as time goes on. It is really amazing all the things you can do with it!



While the test bench is still set up, I've been running some CPU benchmarks and some CrystalDiskMark benchmarks on the Intel 900P SSD. I'll get those posted up sometime over the weekend.


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post #250 of 520 (permalink) Old 01-20-2018, 11:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Cinebench and CrystalDiskMark Benchmarks

I couldn't resist running a few benchmarks while the test bench is still set up. I ran Cinebench on the 7900x both with the stock factory settings, and I also ran it with my current 4.9 GHz overclock profile from when I did The Quick and Dirty 5 GHz Over-Clock awhile back.

I always like to have something to compare benchmarks to as well, so I'll compare it with my current daily driver rig. This will be interesting to see what I'm using now and compare it to what I will be using once I finish this build.

Keep in mind the test bench is only using a stock air cooled GTX 690. So there's no use in running any Firestrike, Heaven, or Time Spy type of benchmarks until I get the video cards I'm actually going to use in this build.

My current daily driver computer has the following:
ASUS ROG Maximus VI Extreme Z87
i7-4790k overclocked to 4.8 GHz
32 GB of G.SKILL TridentX DDR3 2400 ram
Samsung 850 Pro 500 GB
Samsung 850 EVO 2 TB
Seagate 4 TB HDD
3 x GTX 980ti Classified in 3 way SLI with a +75 and +300 over clock


Here's 4790k 4.8 GHz on the Single Core test with a 172 score.




This is the Single Core test for the 7900x stock setting on the left with a score of 185 , and 4.9 GHz on the right with a score of 214. I forgot the CPUz windows on that screenshot.




This is the regular Cinebench test using all cores. Four cores for the 4790k with a 942 score.




Here's the 7900x all ten cores with the stock setting on the left scores 2129, and 4.9 GHz on the right scores 2560. It hit 2600 on a subsequent test.




With both CPUs overclocked the 7900x is about 24% faster than the 4790k in single core performance. Now comparing a Quad core CPU to a Deca core CPU isn't exactly fair on a multi-core Cinebench test, but going from a score of 942 on the 4790k, to a score of 2600 with the 7900x is a whopping 175% increase! The overclock to 4.9 GHz is a 22% increase over the stock settings of the 7900x thumb.gif



The best XTU score I ever got with the 4790k was 1221 Marks. Here's a quick XTU Benchmark on the 7900x 4.9 GHz with a score of 3494 Marks, over 180% increase over the 4790k!




I'll throw in a RealBench 2.56 benchmark here too. The test bench only has the one GTX 690, so it can't compete with the three GTX 980ti Classified cards on the Image editing and OpenCL portions of this benchmark. The 7900x is well over three times better in the Encoding portion of the benchmark, and almost twice the score in the Heavy Multitasking test.





Samsung 850 Pro SSD 500 GB vs the Intel Optane 900P SSD 480GB

To compare the Samsung SSDs in my current rig to the new Intel Optane 900P SSD in the new build, I'm going to use the CyrstalDiskMark 5.5 Benchmark test. I turned the "Rapid Mode" off in the Samsung Magician software and ran the test on both of my Samsung SSDs. The left screenshot is the 850 Pro 500 GB, and the right one is the 850 EVO 2 TB. As you can see they came out virtually the same.



Here's the Intel 900P, it's roughly four to five times faster on the sequential speeds. Take a look at the random 4K numbers at the bottom though, it has almost 10 times faster random read speed than the Samsung SSDs! This should make it pretty snappy.



Just for fun I ran the benchmark on my Seagate 4 TB HDD. Laughable numbers comparatively.



I've had some fun with the hardware I have so far on the test bench. I've tested the CPU, motherboard, and ram. I've got all my basic software loaded and tested, including the motherboard RGBs. I've got some basic overclocking done so I have a pretty good idea of what I have to work with. I have some baseline benchmarks done, now it's time to take the test bench apart, put the motherboard tray back in the case and move forward.


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