[Build Log] The Big Red "Devastator" CaseLabs THW10 - Custom Powder Coating - Page 29 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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[Build Log] The Big Red "Devastator" CaseLabs THW10 - Custom Powder Coating

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post #281 of 517 (permalink) Old 03-24-2018, 02:02 PM - Thread Starter
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CPU Water Block Selection and Unboxing


As far as I know, most all existing CPU blocks will fit on this motherboard. However, the VRMs get smoking hot on the X299 platform depending on how hard you overclock it. Since I definitely will be overclocking this build, cooling the VRMs is essential.

The problem is that until recently nobody made a separate VRM block, so using a mono block was the only solution, other than mounting a fan over the VRMs.


Let’s take a look at what’s available right now for these motherboards. First up is the EK mono block, which is a nice looking block. Since this is a “reverse” build and the motherboard will be upside down, I’m trying to minimize the upside down writing. So that eliminates this mono block from my consideration. Picture from EK.





Next up is this Bitspower acrylic mono block model #ASX299R6A RGB-Nickel. I actually really like the looks of this block, it comes with a flow indicator wheel you can see, and RGB lighting. The next four pictures are from Bitspower.





This shows it mounted on an Apex motherboard.





This is a newer Bitspower mono block that was recently released, model #ASX299R6E RGB-Nickel. This one has the RGB lighting, a flow meter, temperature inlet and outlet sensors, as well as water leak sensors around where the fittings screw in.

It would be nice to be able to utilize the water block connector header on the motherboard, and the header for the LEDs, but since I already have a flow meter tied into the Aquaero I don’t really need that feature. The leak detection is a neat idea, but it only detects a leak around the two fitting on the block, and I think if you do get a warning, it will be too late! What's it going to do, give you a splash screen warning right before smoke comes out of your rig





I’m not crazy about how this block looks, but it does look better mounted on the motherboard where it matches the theme/style of the motherboard armor.





Another concern I had about using a mono block is that I’ve seen people complaining about a height problem between the CPU and the VRM when using a delidded CPU like I am using, where the block does not sit flat like is should. I would think it would be ok, but there is certainly no worries about that when using a separate CPU block and VRM block!

So I decided to go with the Watercool Heatkiller IV PRO Acrylic HWLuxx Edition CPU block product #18009 along with the new VRM block product #11561 they just came out with. I did consider getting the nickel version of the CPU block which looks really nice, but the VRM block is only available in acrylic, and I also plan to have acrylic blocks on the video cards too, so acrylic it is.






Here’s the VRM block, besides the thermal pads it comes with a heat sink for the 10G Lan chip under the armor. No instructions came with it, but I did order this on the first day it was available. I was surprised it actually had a proper label on the box.







The CPU block hardware comes nicely packaged. I like how the two different mounting systems hardware is separated in different pouches, and not jumbled together. Easier to get what you need, and easier to store what you aren’t going to use now.





Notice this block has LED holes in the sides. They do not come with LED holes, but if you order directly from the Watercool store and request the LED holes in the comment section of your order, they will drill them for you! Pretty cool if you ask me





Here’s some shots from outside in the sun.





I did not realize this CPU block does not have a jet plate like the EK blocks do. I like that! It’s less likely for anything to get plugged up in there. Not that I’m planning to have anything but clean coolant in there.






I’m tempted to polish the sides of the CPU block, but there is ten flat surfaces on the sides which would make it a pain to polish. Besides you won’t really be able to see the sides once it is installed.





Now let’s put some coolant in there and see how it looks. On my last PPC order I picked up this Aquacomputer DP Ultra coolant. I’ve never seen it before, and never seen any mention of it anywhere. I’m going to drain and flush my current daily driver soon, and plan to try this out in there first. The new site doesn't like vertically orientated pictures So here a sideways picture for you.





So far this coolant is exactly what I’ve been looking for, a nice clear red color that isn’t too dark. Most of the reds are “blood red” and too dark for what I really want.








Of course I have to put a pair of 3mm LEDs in there to show you how it will look lit up with coolant inside.







That's all for now.


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Last edited by Barefooter; 03-25-2018 at 03:59 PM.
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post #282 of 517 (permalink) Old 03-31-2018, 10:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Custom Front Panel USB Type-C Port

I ordered this case with the USB 3.0 and Audio panel option, which gives you four USB 3 ports along with headphone and microphone jacks. When CaseLabs announced the new Magnum SMA8-A Revision case it was going to have an updated I/O panel with a USB Type-C port, and they would eventually be made available separately if you wanted to update an existing CaseLabs case.

This sounded good to me, might as well have the latest port available, and my motherboard has a USB Type-C header. Someone posted a picture of the new I/O panel on the CaseLabs owners club thread, here it is.




First off, I do not need or want the HDMI port in front, I’m sure it’ll be handy for people using it for VR, but I plan to run four monitors which is the maximum number of monitors that Nvidia cards can use, so I would have to cut the cable off the back of the I/O panel, or leave an HDMI cable hanging inside the case. Plus I did not realize that the Type-C port also eliminated two of the regular USB 3 ports. I often use three of the front ports on my main rig at the same time, so I did not want to lose two front USB 3 ports.

Looking for alternatives I found this USB Type-C Cable made by Lian Li. I like the 90° bend on the motherboard end. Here’s the cable out of the box.




It has some heat shrink over this end of the cable. I’m not sure why it’s there, but I took off the heat shrink to see what was under there, maybe there was a way to lengthen or shorten the cable. As I suspected, there is special shielding on the wires, and any attempt to change the length of the wires will certainly degrade the signal quality. I do not understand why there is heat shrink there instead of the outer cable covering running the length of the cable.




Here’s a test fit of the cable. There’s an unused reservoir mount screw hole I can use to screw a clip on the middle of the cable.




My plan is to cut a hole in the single flex bay cover that goes on top. Due to cable length it will have to go in this area.




Here you can better see the inside of the cable where the heat shrink is removed.




First thing is to somehow sleeve this cable. I could almost get MDPC-X sata sleeving over the cable, except for the 90° bend end of the cable is square, and the corners are just big enough to not let the sleeve go over it. I took a file and filed the square edges round. I wasn’t sure if I would get into the actual connector portion or not, and did risk ruining the cable. This picture shows after I have one corner rounded off.




This allowed me to just barely get the sata sleeve over the cable. I wrapped the bare wire section where the heat shrink was with with electrical tape and sleeved the cable.




Next I marked the spot and drilled three holes where I want the port to be in the flex bay cover. I then used very small round and flat files to get the opening just the right size to barely get the port end through. I do have an extra single flex bay cover powder coated red just in case this does not turn out how I like it.




Nice fit, but it sticks a little too far out the front.




Before this I did use a piece of scrape sheet metal to make a test mounting. My test piece had a perfect hole already, so I cut a small square out of that sheet metal and glued it to the end of the cable. That should make it fit more flush in front.




I could have just drilled two more holes in the flex bay cover and put two small machine screws through to secure the cable to the flex bay cover, but I really wanted to make it a cleaner look, with just the port and no screws. On my test mounting I attempted to epoxy nuts to the inside, so that I could unscrew the cable if I ever wanted to, but it was just not strong enough.

I decided to use JB Weld two part epoxy and just epoxy the cable into place from the back side. The back side won’t show so it will be ok. The JB Weld sets up in about five minutes which can be good or bad. I did several practice runs with these two clamps before I mixed up the epoxy.




The practice went perfect, but once I was working with the actual epoxy and putting the clamps on… of course the whole thing explodes and snaps apart, the cable comes out, epoxy is dripping everywhere, I realized that I did not put any masking tape back on the front of the flex bay cover, and there is epoxy on there now, so I wipe it off put it together, and again it snaps apart! Now I also have epoxy on the clamp surfaces too

I’m working in my garage because the fumes from this epoxy last for over a week, I have a bag of these clamps in my work shop, so rather than try to clean the clamps, I decide run around to the work shop on the other side of the house, get more clamps, meanwhile I’m running out of time before the epoxy sets up and ruins everything if it’s not in place properly, or I end up with epoxy on the uncovered front of the flex bay! I was so mad at myself for not putting masking tape on the front.

I just barely got the front wiped off and it all together properly when the epoxy started to harden. I got it done just in time, although I did have to make a second batch of epoxy to add a little more on.




Let’s see how the finished project looks installed.







Here’s the front view. Notice the port is similar size and shape to the front ventilation slots. I would have loved to put this in the middle of the flex bay, but the cable was just not long enough.




Here’s a slick little USB drive. It has a USB Type-C connector on one end, and the slider on the side slides out to a standard USB 3.1 on the other side, so you can use this drive in either type of port.





Here’s a look with the hard drive cage installed.







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Last edited by Barefooter; 03-31-2018 at 10:52 AM.
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post #283 of 517 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 10:04 AM
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Another excellent post - thanks. I can see the panic and the running around part (where is that run around smilie when you need it!) perfectly in my head.

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post #284 of 517 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 04:19 PM
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love it!


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Ok so here is my report....IT AIN"T HAPPENING!
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post #285 of 517 (permalink) Old 04-02-2018, 02:24 PM
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Nicely done.

That's curious about the HDMI out front. Do you have to go outside of the back, plug into HDMI, then snake back in and run to the front? Yeah, not for me.
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post #286 of 517 (permalink) Old 04-04-2018, 03:39 PM
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Hey the read has been incredible, A few month ago I made the decision to start a similar project of my own also on a THW10 and your log has been a godsend. Not only your explanations have been amazing but had made me realize of many things I wasn't expecting. So thanks a lot for the amazing tips and I am looking forward to future updates now that I am a member.

Could you give us a final tally of all the fittings you used? Its the main part I am not as comfortable with my skills to ballpark.
Anyway thanks for the inspiration!
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post #287 of 517 (permalink) Old 04-12-2018, 03:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by ruffhi View Post
Another excellent post - thanks. I can see the panic and the running around part (where is that run around smilie when you need it!) perfectly in my head.

Quote: Originally Posted by cpachris View Post
love it!
Thanks guys I really appreciate the comments! This build log gets a lot of views, but not many comments at times. It's good to know people are enjoying it


Quote: Originally Posted by Master Chicken View Post
Nicely done.

That's curious about the HDMI out front. Do you have to go outside of the back, plug into HDMI, then snake back in and run to the front? Yeah, not for me.
Thanks. Yes you would either have to snake it around back, or use a card like this one that has in internal HDMI port. Either way the HDMI port kills it for me.





Quote: Originally Posted by Nonor64 View Post
Hey the read has been incredible, A few month ago I made the decision to start a similar project of my own also on a THW10 and your log has been a godsend. Not only your explanations have been amazing but had made me realize of many things I wasn't expecting. So thanks a lot for the amazing tips and I am looking forward to future updates now that I am a member.

Could you give us a final tally of all the fittings you used? Its the main part I am not as comfortable with my skills to ballpark.
Anyway thanks for the inspiration!
Welcome to OCN! Glad you joined up and are following along.

I plan to put together a spread sheet of all the fittings I use once the plumbing is completely finished. Generally... it always takes more fittings than you planned on




Since I started this build, I have not done much gaming at all. What little spare time I have I've been working on this build. However, I'm a HUGE Far Cry fan, and I just had to buy the new Far Cry 5 game that was just released a few weeks back. So I've been tearing it up on that game since the release without getting much done on the build. I'm almost 30 hours in, and loving the game so far.

I do have a small update I'll get posted in the next couple of days.


.
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post #288 of 517 (permalink) Old 04-13-2018, 10:36 PM
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Very nice...

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post #289 of 517 (permalink) Old 04-14-2018, 08:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Power and Rest Buttons

Here’s the stock power and reset buttons that came with the case. They are black plastic, the buttons operate smoothly, and the cables are sleeved.




I decided to use different switches that would match better with the chrome on the hot swap bays. Here’s the 22mm silver with red ring start button, and a silver reset button with a red dot.




Here you can see the stock cables that came with the case look nice.




These are the cables that came with the silver switches I bought. They are slightly longer than the stock CaseLabs wires, and that will work better for my motherboard orientation. I cut the plastic covering off and sleeved them with black MDPC-X sleeving.




Here’s a close up of the Asus power/reset connector that comes with Asus motherboards. These are awesome! Just connect up all the single and double wire connectors on this one block and then you can easily plug one connector into the motherboard. I may put a piece of sata heat shrink over this whole thing now that each switch harness has gone through it’s individual hole in the front mounting plate.




As you can see the wires have these funky clear insulation pieces on this end. Once installed this area will be hidden behind the front radiators, so I’m not too concerned with the looks, and these connectors actually hold nicely onto the switches.




I put a large piece of heat shrink over the whole connector. It looks cleaner, plus this should help keep any wires from being accidentally pulled off.




If you look carefully you can see that I put one more piece of heat shrink over the smaller end.




Here we go all done.




Next up is sleeving the USB 3 - Audio front panel cables and installing this I/O panel into the case.

.
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post #290 of 517 (permalink) Old 04-19-2018, 02:01 PM
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Did you include any filtering capacitors in your PSU/VGA cables? The stock cables appear to have them installed:
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