[Build Log] The Big Red "Devastator" CaseLabs THW10 - Custom Powder Coating - Page 32 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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[Build Log] The Big Red "Devastator" CaseLabs THW10 - Custom Powder Coating

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post #311 of 520 (permalink) Old 05-12-2018, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Mounting the CPU and VRM water blocks

Since I pulled the motherboard tray back out of the case to make installing the case lighting easier, and I'm done playing around with the test bench now is the time to mount the CPU and VRM blocks.

There is a single screw at the bottom of the armor to remove the first section of the armor.




With the first piece of armor removed you can see where there is a M.2 slot. I seriously doubt I will ever use that slot since it would require a system drain, and removing the video cards for access. This also allows access to some of the screws that secure the motherboard to the motherboard tray that slides into the case.




Flipping the motherboard over, the two screws on the right hold the I/O cover in place. The other four screws hold the stock VRM heatsink on. The top back plate gets reused with the VRM block.




Pull the I/O cover off carefully because there are two electrical plugs connected on the bottom. The top one is pulled off already in this picture.




I/O cover off.




Here is the stock VRM heat sink off to the side. On the left under the I/O cover the stock VRM cooler also cools the Aquantia 10 gigabit LAN chipset.




The back side of the stock VRM heatsink.




Since this is a “reverse ATX” build, and the motherboard will be mounted upside down from what would be the normal mounting position, I would like to minimize the upside down writing. I wanted to somehow mod the “Republic of Gamers” name plate in the center of the motherboard.

It looks like a thin piece of metal that’s just glued on there. I thought about taking a heat gun and peeling it off there, but another OCN member that wanted to do something similar said it is built into the motherboard.

Even if I could get it to come off with a heat gun, I couldn’t easily flip the name plate over due to the shape of it. So I was just planning to leave it alone because it won’t show much due to the fact that the first video card will mostly hide it. I did come up with a solution though.




Originally I was just going to leave the top plug of the I/O cover unplugged so it would not illuminate the “Rampage VI Extreme” logo on the I/O cover. I ended up removing this little top circuit panel, and tapped the connector up.




I put a piece of black vinyl over the slot where the light would go through the I/O cover just to keep any light from coming through.




Here’s the beautiful Heatkiller VRM block with acrylic top.




The heatsink on the left is for the 10 gigabit LAN chip, and came included with the VRM block which I thought was a nice touch. I’m sure it would provide adequate cooling, but since I had some larger heat sinks on hand I’ll be using the one on the right since there is plenty of room under the I/O cover for it to fit. Bigger is always better right




Got the 10g chip heat sink on there now. Notice anything else here? I used some of the black vinyl sheets that I used for the fan stickers, and cut out a piece that fit over the “Republic of Gamers” logo in the center of the motherboard. That looks cleaner




The VRM block also came with the appropriate thermal pads.




VRM block mounted.




I always use the Gelid GC Extreme thermal compound for mounting my CPU blocks. I know that the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut is just slightly better than the Gelid compound, but in most charts I’ve seen it is only about one degree better. I’ve also heard of people that suggest the Thermal Grizzly Kryounaut dries out over time, although I’m really not sure how that can happen.

I’ve used this Gelid GC Extreme for years now, and had very good luck with it so I’ll stick with what I know is good and reliable. Plus I like the spreader tool that is included.




That’s about the right amount of thermal compound. I actually ended up putting just a little more on there.




Another controversial topic is how to apply the thermal compound. I always just spread it out as thin as I can across the entire CPU lid. I know that many people will say that this may not be the best method, but it makes me feel good that I know I have complete coverage! Plus I have never had a bad mount using this method.




The protective covering peeled off of the CPU block.






Here's the CPU block mounted. Remember back when I did the unboxing for this block and put some red coolant in it for the pictures? I left that coolant in there sitting on my work bench for like a month, and already you can see the pinkish stain from the fluid. It won’t show once I have red coolant back in there.




This Heatkiller IV Pro HWLuxx Edition block can be mounted in any direction, but the center port must be used as the inlet. Therefore having the outlet at the top will be the best way to bleed the air out, which is crucial sine I’ll probably barely be able to tilt this case to bleed it when the time comes




Here’s the motherboard back mounted to the motherboard tray.




Time for the CPU block LEDs. These are Darkside 3mm white LEDs.




I spliced the two LEDs together, sleeved with the MDPC-X platinum sleeving, and put a fan connector on the end. That will plug into the Splitty9 I’m using as a LED distribution block on the back side of the case.




I put the placeholder video card back in to check out the routing situation. The harness will go over the top of the RAM sticks, below the video card, and through the same case opening as the 24 pin cable.






A final test to be sure the LEDs work ok.




After I get to this point and looking it over... then I come up with the idea of putting black vinyl over the black section of the I/O cover with the “Rampage VI Extreme” logo.

So I had to take the motherboard back off the tray, then it took me three tries to cut a piece of vinyl to fit correctly. This looks way better than I expected! It looks stock, and again helps eliminate the upside down writing.




Here the motherboard is back mounted on the motherboard tray again. There was a few very small bubbles under the sticker. I worked them out the best I could, and then after a day or two they were completely gone.





That’s all for this update.
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post #312 of 520 (permalink) Old 05-12-2018, 10:57 AM
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The HeatKiller CPU and VRM blocks have great aesthetics and are probably top of the class in performance as well. Going to look great in your build.
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post #313 of 520 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 03:26 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Barefooter View Post
Hey Ruff, to answer your questions:

<snip>.
Sorry ... one more question ...

I then ordered 30 feet of Blackest-Black MDPC-X FP Sleeve. It came in the mail really quickly (ordered on the 6th, mailed on the 7th, I got it on the 10 - cross country trip).

What I got is flat in style and the flat part measures about 8 to 9 mm across. My expectation was that the FP version would be round in cross section ... just like their normal sleeving but with a bigger diameter.

Did I get STAT sleeving by mistake?


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post #314 of 520 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 11:31 AM
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All sleeving will be mostly flat as its off the spool, which is would be as flat as possible. It should be 9mm across. Also generally MDPC-X would put a piece of tape on it that says 'FP'. When stretched tight as possible it is definitely smaller than SATA sleeve. But not by a whole lot.
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post #315 of 520 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 02:39 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by lowfat View Post
All sleeving will be mostly flat as its off the spool, which is would be as flat as possible. It should be 9mm across. Also generally MDPC-X would put a piece of tape on it that says 'FP'. When stretched tight as possible it is definitely smaller than SATA sleeve. But not by a whole lot.
Hmmm ... nothing like that ('FP') on the sleeving or the ziplock bag ... but this was mod-one.

Edit: Just hit mod-one up on FB ... got a reply back really quickly with the message that SATA is about 12mm wide - what I have is about 9mm wide. Great ... I am good to go with sleeving my speaker cables.

Edit2: And cable for middle speaker is done.

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Last edited by ruffhi; 05-13-2018 at 04:10 PM.
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post #316 of 520 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 10:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by Master Chicken View Post
The HeatKiller CPU and VRM blocks have great aesthetics and are probably top of the class in performance as well. Going to look great in your build.
Thanks Master Chicken. Yes the Heatkiller blocks are really beautifully made!


Quote: Originally Posted by ruffhi View Post
Sorry ... one more question ...

I then ordered 30 feet of Blackest-Black MDPC-X FP Sleeve. It came in the mail really quickly (ordered on the 6th, mailed on the 7th, I got it on the 10 - cross country trip).

What I got is flat in style and the flat part measures about 8 to 9 mm across. My expectation was that the FP version would be round in cross section ... just like their normal sleeving but with a bigger diameter.

Did I get STAT sleeving by mistake?

Quote: Originally Posted by ruffhi View Post
Hmmm ... nothing like that ('FP') on the sleeving or the ziplock bag ... but this was mod-one.

Edit: Just hit mod-one up on FB ... got a reply back really quickly with the message that SATA is about 12mm wide - what I have is about 9mm wide. Great ... I am good to go with sleeving my speaker cables.

Edit2: And cable for middle speaker is done.
Hey ruffhi, I see lowfat already answered, but you got me curious now.

I only have a small piece of the FP sleeve, I'm measuring about 7.3mm when flat, and my sata sleeve measures 9.5mm to 10mm across when flat.

Those speaker cables look good. Never heard of the "pants" for then ends, but gives them a nice clean look.


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post #317 of 520 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 02:46 PM
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btw ... they also come with pants that have 4 legs. Gets you thinking about things ... well, maybe a little.

https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express...OO6/ref=sr_1_9

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post #318 of 520 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 10:36 AM
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Dat mobo setup

post-flame-small.gifTEARS IN RAIN A Blade Runner inspired build (2017)post-flame-small.gif
post-flame-small.gifPARVUM WARFARE An Advanced Warfare themed build (2014)post-flame-small.gif
post-flame-small.gifPARVUM TITANFALL A Titanfall themed build (2014)post-flame-small.gif
post-flame-small.gifROBOCOP A Robocop themed 900D build (2013/14)post-flame-small.gif


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post #319 of 520 (permalink) Old 05-19-2018, 02:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by ruffhi View Post
btw ... they also come with pants that have 4 legs. Gets you thinking about things ... well, maybe a little.

https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express...OO6/ref=sr_1_9
Quote: Originally Posted by Jameswalt1 View Post
Dat mobo setup


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post #320 of 520 (permalink) Old 05-19-2018, 03:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Water Leak Testing the Chassis

If you’ve been following along for a while you’ve probably seen me air pressure test sub-sections of this build. I haven’t done that in some time now, and the loop is all done except for the section that goes into, and out of all the water blocks on the motherboard tray.

So to bypass the water block section, I connected the main side bottom and top radiators with a piece of soft tube and some barb fittings for an air pressure test. After all the testing I have already done, and the fact that I was very careful with all the fittings to be sure they were all tight, I was confident that it would hold pressure.




Then I became very disappointed when it did not hold pressure It was bleeding off fairly fast too. I used some soapy water to try find where the leak was, but I could not find any leaks. So I decided to put water in it… that will find the leak!

Plus I really wanted to do a test fill and drain of the system anyway before it’s filled with hardware. Also the pumps have not run yet so now I can test the pumps, and make sure there are no issues with having two reservoirs in one loop.

Before I started putting water in, I was testing connecting the quick disconnect fittings I’ll be using for the drain tubes, and found that one of the quick disconnect fittings on the lower radiators was loose

I put those in a long time ago, and had not checked those fittings with soapy water (kind of forgot about those down there), so I tightened that fitting, and air pressure tested it again, thinking that was it! Well that did help, but it was still bleeding off, only about half as slowly now.

Time to put some water in this thing! I used this little funnel here that screws into a G 1/4 fitting. I removed the push down air bleeder from the radiator on the other side so I could just pour the water into the funnel without having to press the air bleeder down simultaneously.




Here’s the soft tube bypass I put in. The shut-off valve in the middle is slightly closed just to give the loop some restriction to simulate some water blocks.




The fill funnel is right above the tube coming out of the top radiator on the left side. Water will flow through the flow sensor, and into both reservoirs. I also had a plug removed from the top of each reservoir. I poured an entire gallon of distilled water into the system before I ever turned the pumps on, and it filled quite easily too




It’s hard to see, but yes there is water in those pumps.




I made a custom power cable just to use for filling and water leak testing. The cable is four feet long plugs into the aux connector for the pumps with a molex connector on the other end. This way even when the build is done I won’t have to unplug the 24 pin connector or anything else, just unplug the pump and plug it into this harness. Right now it’s plugged into a spare power supply over on the work bench. I turned the pumps off here after the first time turning them on. You can see the bubbles going through the bottom tubes.




I then put about another half a gallon of water into the upper radiators before capping them off and turning the pumps on again. This filled both reservoirs about half way full. Then I finished filling them from the back side reservoir top.




I put a piece of tape on the reservoir so I can see how much the water level drops as the air purges out of it. I did give each end of the case a little tilt a few times… very heavy already!




I’ve never done two reservoirs in one loop before. I thought it would work ok, and thankfully it surely does. Here’s a look through the back of the case without the motherboard tray so you can see both reservoirs. They are connected on top through the pass through fitting, and serves as an air balance tube as well as providing support holding the reservoirs in place.

With the pumps running it pulls the water level in the reservoir on the back side closest to the pumps lower than the water level on the main side. I later found that with the water level higher in both reservoirs it was not nearly as pronounced of a difference. Regardless for the final fill up I’ll probably leave a little gap on top and not fill them all the way to the top.




Here the reservoirs are filled all the way up. With it turned off, if you remove a fill plug from the back side reservoir no water spills. When removing a fill plug from the main side reservoir a little bit of water comes out.




So where is that pesky leak? Well it didn’t take too long to see a drip coming from one of the fittings that screw onto the flow indicator at the center of the bottom tube. I was a little leery of this flow indicator when I was installing it, and thought… well if it does leak there’s a good chance it won’t hurt anything.




I tried to tighten the flow indicator fittings by hand, I got them slightly tighter, but then the other side started to drip and I could not get them any tighter by hand. I usually only tighten fittings by hand, but sometimes if necessary I use this little pair of channel lock style pliers with some masking tape on the teeth. It rarely will leave a mark if you are using them on fittings with the knurled outsides. Anyway a little snug with these pliers and that fixed the leak.




So I put the water level almost to the top of the reservoirs as you can see here, and then left the pumps running for a full week. The water level only barely dropped at all, and most importantly there was no other leaks found!



Here’s a shot of when I put the two drains in. A dual rotary fitting with a quick disconnect on each bottom radiator. Normally they are pointed towards the front of the case. Just pivot them to the back and snap on two hoses with quick disconnects to drain the system.




All connected up here. The water drains out fast with a plug out of each reservoir and a plug out of each top radiator.




I drained it into a five gallon bucket. Even with all the flushing I did to the radiators, I still got a little bit cruddy stuff that drained out. Once the loop is finalized I’ll run some Blitz part 2 for a final cleaning before putting the coolant in.




Overall I am pleased with the filling and draining process so far. Hopefully it still goes well once all the water blocks are in the loop.





An Insider Scoop

About a week ago I got a little inside scoop on a new product that will be introduced at Computex next month. Right now, I can only tell you that there will be one going into this build… and it’s not a video card


.
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Last edited by Barefooter; 05-19-2018 at 03:13 PM.
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