[Build Log] The Big Red "Devastator" CaseLabs THW10 - Custom Powder Coating - Page 38 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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[Build Log] The Big Red "Devastator" CaseLabs THW10 - Custom Powder Coating

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post #371 of 538 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 03:35 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Barefooter View Post
Well I just lost all of nice update that I had worked on for hours by accidentally closing my browser when I was just about done

This new site just sucks for posting

The old one would have saved all of my work automatically.

I am going to finish this build, but this crap just makes me feel like saying screw it and not showing it here!
Sorry to hear about the frustration with the site. Your build is nothing short of amazing. I have a couple of cases that are unpainted from CL. I just left them primered as I could not make up my mind as to how I wanted to paint them but you have given me some good inspiration. When I do my next build I will likely pull one of these apart and get them powdercoated as you have.

Keep up the good work.

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post #372 of 538 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 01:01 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Barefooter View Post
Well I just lost all of nice update that I had worked on for hours by accidentally closing my browser when I was just about done

This new site just sucks for posting

The old one would have saved all of my work automatically.

I am going to finish this build, but this crap just makes me feel like saying screw it and not showing it here!

Ah damn, my sympathies. That’s just infuriating, the old site was so much easier to use. But don’t give up on the build log now, not after putting so much effort into it!

If it helps I tended to pre-type my main build log entries in full anyway, drafting a version in Word first – layout, pictures, the lot – and only copying it across here for posting once happy with it. (Although that was more a product of continuous fretting over the quality of my writing and presentation.) Of course it still took ages to upload the photos, resize them, redo the formatting, and all the rest of it; but at least working from a completed reference of what I wanted to say and how I wanted to say it.


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post #373 of 538 (permalink) Old 09-07-2018, 02:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by Deathscythes View Post
Meh that sucks, man
I know the feeling it happened to me once. Redacting a build log is something I find very enjoyable but retyping something trying to remember what you previously wrote is very frustrating and demotivating :/
Quote: Originally Posted by Dagamus NM View Post
Sorry to hear about the frustration with the site. Your build is nothing short of amazing. I have a couple of cases that are unpainted from CL. I just left them primered as I could not make up my mind as to how I wanted to paint them but you have given me some good inspiration. When I do my next build I will likely pull one of these apart and get them powdercoated as you have.

Keep up the good work.
Quote: Originally Posted by OCDesign View Post
Ah damn, my sympathies. That’s just infuriating, the old site was so much easier to use. But don’t give up on the build log now, not after putting so much effort into it!

If it helps I tended to pre-type my main build log entries in full anyway, drafting a version in Word first – layout, pictures, the lot – and only copying it across here for posting once happy with it. (Although that was more a product of continuous fretting over the quality of my writing and presentation.) Of course it still took ages to upload the photos, resize them, redo the formatting, and all the rest of it; but at least working from a completed reference of what I wanted to say and how I wanted to say it.
Thanks guys for your support and kind words! I appreciate it. Obviously I was pretty frustrated at the moment.


@Dagamus NM you are probably one of only a very few people that have more than one CaseLabs case just laying around. If you ever decide to part with one please look me up first

@OCDesign yes luckily I have a rough draft saved in a Word document. I too switched to drafting my long winded posts in Word, and preparing all my pictures before starting the actual post. After they changed the site over late last January I kept getting some kind of time out thing and it would only save the latter part of the post and kept losing pictures.

The new site is not very friendly compared with the older version. Meanwhile I've been sick as a dog for over a week now. I'm just now starting to feel better... so hopefully this weekend I'll have time and feel up to redoing my last post that went poof.

I think you are going to like it


.



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post #374 of 538 (permalink) Old 09-08-2018, 01:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Polishing the HDD Waterblocks

The outside HDD waterblock is going right up close to the window of the case, so I want to make that block look spectacular by polishing it.
To start with I removed all the screws holding the acrylic block to the nickel coated copper plate.




Most Bitspower logos at least on their fittings are etched in, and there is no way to remove them, but not in this case! As I suspected there was a thin piece of plastic on top that comes right off. Obviously this will not be going back on.




I removed the o-ring seal for now.




Here’s my set-up. I’m using a piece of glass from an old end table I had around. I use a squirt bottle to wet the sand paper. That is half a sheet of 400 grit wet-dry sand paper to start with.




After sanding with 400 grit I move onto the 800 grit.




Then I used 1200 grit, 1500 grit and finally 2000 grit. However, take a close look at the middle area of this block. As it turned out after I polished this surface, it was apparent that I did not use the 400 grit enough, and had to redo the process starting with 400 grit again.

So don’t short cut the 400 grit! This just shows how important the first step with the 400 grit sandpaper is.




Now see the complete sandpaper marks across the entire block after starting over with 400 grit.




Here’s after the 800 grit.




After going over it with the 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper again, the outside is ready for the polishing. I use Meguiar's PlastX Clear Plastic Polish with a micro fiber cloth to polish the block with.




Here we go with the outside surfaces all polished.






The top polished block compared with the stock block on the bottom. See how all the inside machining marks are identical.




Now to do the inside of the waterblock, I taped off the sides because they are very smooth already. I think those surfaces just need the polishing compound, and I don’t want to scratch up those surfaces with the sandpaper.

I used a small block of wood and 1/8 sheet of sandpaper wrapped around it.




Then with scissors I cut out a piece shaped like this, and used my finger to get down into the areas going to the ports. I also wrapped some sandpaper around a 50mm extension fitting that fit perfectly into the circle area at the bottom. By twisting the fitting around I was able to get into the corners of the circle area.




Here’s after the 400 grit was done. This time I made sure to get this sanded enough! The hardest part was getting the circle area near the ports where it meets the angled area sanded enough. The 400 grit requires the most time. Each finer grit is just removing the sanding marks.






Here is after using 800 grit.




After doing the 1200 grit and 1500 grit, here’s after the 2000 grit was done. If you look carefully at the bottom left corner of the outside of the block you can still see some sanding marks on the outside of the waterblock, I had to polish that corner a little more.




The top block with the outside polished, and this inside sanded all the way to 2000 grit. It just needs the inside polished now.




Here is where the real magic is! The top block with the inside all polished on top of the stock waterblock. It looks like it is made out of glass




Imagine a nice clear red fluid running through these waterblocks with the blocks illuminated with white LEDs.




I did use some precision tip Q-tips to get into the corners in the circle areas near the ports.




I mounted the acrylic block back onto the nickel coated copper plate. It looks even more spectacular in person!






Here’s with some red coolant. That is actually some watered down EK red I had in a jug from when I was playing around with some different coolants. That’s not the coolant I’ll be using, but it is close just so we can see what it looks like with red fluid.






I’m super happy with how this came out. I did not really keep track of how long I spent doing it because I would spend 30 minutes here, and hour there. I would guess that I spent a minimum of six hours, but more likely between eight and ten hours. It certainly requires patience.

The second HDD waterblock is only going to show the end where the fittings go into, and a little bit of the top of the waterblock, so I’ll probably just polish those two surfaces on the second waterblock.

Once I have that completed I can mount these waterblocks onto the hard disk drives, and make the LED harnesses for them.

.
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Devastator
(14 items)
Secondary Rig
(13 items)
CPU
i9-7900X
Motherboard
Asus Rampage Extreme VI
GPU
2x EVGA 2080Ti XC Gaming
RAM
G.Skill TridentZ Royal 32GB 3600 16-16-16-36
Hard Drive
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Samsung 850 EVO 2TB
Hard Drive
2x Seagate Iron Wolf Pro 12TB
Power Supply
EVGA SuperNOVA 1600 T2
Cooling
Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 Radiators 4x 560mm + 2x 280mm
Cooling
Aquacomputer Aquaero XT + Aquaero LT
Cooling
2x Aquacomputer D5s with custom chrome plated Bitspower mod kits
Cooling
2x Aquacomputer Aqualis 880ml Reservoirs with Nano Coating & Aquabus Interface
Case
CaseLabs THW10 with Custom Powder Coating
Operating System
Windows 10 Pro
CPU
Intel Core i7-4790K
Motherboard
Asus Maximus Extreme VI
GPU
EVGA GTX 980 ti Classified
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G.SKILL Trident X Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3 2400
Hard Drive
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Hard Drive
Seagate Desktop HDD 4TB
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EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2
Cooling
EK 420 Rad + EK 280 Rad
Case
Corsair 750D
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Last edited by Barefooter; 09-08-2018 at 01:25 PM.
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post #375 of 538 (permalink) Old 09-08-2018, 08:42 PM
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I had no idea such technique existed. If I understood you "simply" made the block clearer?! That's amazing!
How does it work? What does the polish solution actually do? Could that be used to "fix" scratched tubing?
Thank you for this amazing post, man! This build log is a great source of info and inspiration =)
Take care, man

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post #376 of 538 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 03:53 AM
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Beautiful. Provokes the obvious question - why on earth aren’t they sold like that!



The polished glass-like finish looks so much more refined, especially against the nickel backplate. The stock version seems positively crude by comparison.
Well worth all the time spent. Set in that position it’s going to be such an eye catcher.


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post #377 of 538 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 04:15 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by OCDesign View Post
Beautiful. Provokes the obvious question - why on earth aren’t they sold like that!



Ask how long it took to get that way and you have your answer.


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post #378 of 538 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 05:21 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by taowulf View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by OCDesign View Post
Beautiful. Provokes the obvious question - why on earth aren’t they sold like that!
Ask how long it took to get that way and you have your answer.

Of course, you’re quite right. Nobody here would be willing to pay truly ridiculous price premiums buying expensive yet elegant accessories to customise our technology - that would be preposterous!

We’d never do that…


(Honestly if Bitspower offered the choice of the standard block vs - for just three times the price - the Deluxe Hand-Crafted Barefooter Edition in polished acrylic, I guarantee I’d still manage to persuade myself that it was somehow absolutely essential to get the classy one.)


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Last edited by OCDesign; 09-09-2018 at 06:01 AM.
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post #379 of 538 (permalink) Old 09-11-2018, 09:06 PM
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Looks amazing. I did this with my cpu block which is on a smaller scale but well worth it. Manf. Do have ways to do it faster. Look at radikult custom reservoirs and singularity computers for example they polish there stuff or you can get it unpolished / frosted

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post #380 of 538 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 02:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by Deathscythes View Post
I had no idea such technique existed. If I understood you "simply" made the block clearer?! That's amazing!
How does it work? What does the polish solution actually do? Could that be used to "fix" scratched tubing?
Thank you for this amazing post, man! This build log is a great source of info and inspiration =)
Take care, man
Yes basically it makes the block "clearer". It makes the block look magnificent, and shows the coolant nicely. The polishing compound is kind of like polishing or waxing a car, it takes all the fine scratches from the sandpaper out. It probably would work on tubing, although I have not tried it on any tubing. Glad you enjoyed the post!


Quote: Originally Posted by taowulf View Post
Ask how long it took to get that way and you have your answer.
You nailed it taowulf! It takes way too long for a production part.


Quote: Originally Posted by OCDesign View Post
Of course, you’re quite right. Nobody here would be willing to pay truly ridiculous price premiums buying expensive yet elegant accessories to customise our technology - that would be preposterous!

We’d never do that…


(Honestly if Bitspower offered the choice of the standard block vs - for just three times the price - the Deluxe Hand-Crafted Barefooter Edition in polished acrylic, I guarantee I’d still manage to persuade myself that it was somehow absolutely essential to get the classy one.)
Thanks my friend... I got a good laugh out of that


Quote: Originally Posted by emsj86 View Post
Looks amazing. I did this with my cpu block which is on a smaller scale but well worth it. Manf. Do have ways to do it faster. Look at radikult custom reservoirs and singularity computers for example they polish there stuff or you can get it unpolished / frosted
I had not seen radikult custom reservoirs before. Some pretty cool stuff there

.



Devastator
(14 items)
Secondary Rig
(13 items)
CPU
i9-7900X
Motherboard
Asus Rampage Extreme VI
GPU
2x EVGA 2080Ti XC Gaming
RAM
G.Skill TridentZ Royal 32GB 3600 16-16-16-36
Hard Drive
Intel Optane SSD 480GB
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 EVO 2TB
Hard Drive
2x Seagate Iron Wolf Pro 12TB
Power Supply
EVGA SuperNOVA 1600 T2
Cooling
Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 Radiators 4x 560mm + 2x 280mm
Cooling
Aquacomputer Aquaero XT + Aquaero LT
Cooling
2x Aquacomputer D5s with custom chrome plated Bitspower mod kits
Cooling
2x Aquacomputer Aqualis 880ml Reservoirs with Nano Coating & Aquabus Interface
Case
CaseLabs THW10 with Custom Powder Coating
Operating System
Windows 10 Pro
CPU
Intel Core i7-4790K
Motherboard
Asus Maximus Extreme VI
GPU
EVGA GTX 980 ti Classified
RAM
G.SKILL Trident X Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3 2400
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 Pro 500GB
Hard Drive
Seagate Desktop HDD 4TB
Power Supply
EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2
Cooling
EK 420 Rad + EK 280 Rad
Case
Corsair 750D
Operating System
Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
Monitor
Acer XB271HU
Keyboard
Microsofte Natural Ergonomic 4000
Mouse
Logitech G502
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