[Build Log] The Big Red "Devastator" CaseLabs THW10 - Custom Powder Coating - Page 49 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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[Build Log] The Big Red "Devastator" CaseLabs THW10 - Custom Powder Coating

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post #481 of 528 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 02:24 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Barefooter View Post
The Devastator has been on the cart there since the beginning. That cart was for sure a must have this build. I've turned it around hundreds of times, and even rolled it out into the back yard for pictures from time to time. @iamjanco is using one of these carts now too.

The 750D case I carried down stairs from my office. It's heavy but I can still carry it up and down the stairs. Not a chance I can move the Devastator by myself. A two man job for sure!

I’m speechless. Looking back through the pictures – all this time, how on earth have I not noticed that?

You seriously did this entire build with that huge case - on casters and full of heavy, expensive, painstakingly assembled gear - perched on top of a working height movable cart that is only a little wider than it is? And then just casually wheeled the whole thing around, outside, for photos? I recall the odd set of outdoor pics but assumed that you’d bubble wrapped and boxed it. You’re a lot braver than I am - with Beast that far off the ground I’d have had a heart attack going anywhere near! That was assembled and photographed entirely in this room – it, and me, sitting firmly on the floor (indeed lying on the floor a lot of the time) – and it damn well stayed there! I’ve never moved it further than the adjacent room, with kid gloves and a nervous expression every time…


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post #482 of 528 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 05:53 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by OCDesign View Post
I’m speechless. Looking back through the pictures – all this time, how on earth have I not noticed that?

You seriously did this entire build with that huge case - on casters and full of heavy, expensive, painstakingly assembled gear - perched on top of a working height movable cart that is only a little wider than it is? And then just casually wheeled the whole thing around, outside, for photos? I recall the odd set of outdoor pics but assumed that you’d bubble wrapped and boxed it. You’re a lot braver than I am - with Beast that far off the ground I’d have had a heart attack going anywhere near! That was assembled and photographed entirely in this room – it, and me, sitting firmly on the floor (indeed lying on the floor a lot of the time) – and it damn well stayed there! I’ve never moved it further than the adjacent room, with kid gloves and a nervous expression every time…
Having used the cart myself for a few days now I have to admit it's a godsend. I don't have a lot of room where I'm currently at, and have been wheeling it around (and turning it in every direction) effortlessly, with what amounts to at least 100lbs of weight on it. It really is rock stable.

Just make sure if you decide to get one that you've also got a rubber mallet on hand. While the cart pretty much came assembled and was shipped in a huge box, you'll definitely need that mallet when installing the casters. The only other assembly required was attaching the outlet strip to it (the cabling is heavy gauge, the strip itself somewhat cheap), and positioning the upper section of the cart onto the lower section to set the height of the cart, then bolting those two sections together.

Given what's available today for the same amount of money, it gets a 4.5 (out of 5) from me. Took a half a star off for one cracked plastic bushing used to seat the casters, but I was able to work around that. Packaging could have been better too; but it was what it was.

@Barefooter ...and thanks for the plugs, BF!


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post #483 of 528 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 07:55 PM
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Loving how the build is turning out. I think I went thru 6 different re builds in the time this has been going together. Its nice to see the detail and patience you are having to make this great

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post #484 of 528 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 03:34 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by iamjanco View Post
Having used the cart myself for a few days now I have to admit it's a godsend. I don't have a lot of room where I'm currently at, and have been wheeling it around (and turning it in every direction) effortlessly, with what amounts to at least 100lbs of weight on it. It really is rock stable.

Just make sure if you decide to get one that you've also got a rubber mallet on hand. While the cart pretty much came assembled and was shipped in a huge box, you'll definitely need that mallet when installing the casters. The only other assembly required was attaching the outlet strip to it (the cabling is heavy gauge, the strip itself somewhat cheap), and positioning the upper section of the cart onto the lower section to set the height of the cart, then bolting those two sections together.

Given what's available today for the same amount of money, it gets a 4.5 (out of 5) from me. Took a half a star off for one cracked plastic bushing used to seat the casters, but I was able to work around that. Packaging could have been better too; but it was what it was.

@Barefooter ...and thanks for the plugs, BF!

Glad it’s less precarious than it looks! How are the casters on it? In my experience good quality stuff is so often badly let down by being fitted with cheap plastic casters, which seem fine…right up to the moment they don’t. And with the centre of gravity so high up it only takes one to send a lot of money very quickly to the ground.


For myself having the machine up on a cart is probably of limited advantage. Doubtless it would be more convenient to work on at that height, but the Ironbeast rig was always intended to go on the floor and the new build will almost certainly do likewise (fitting into a sort of ‘docking bay’ in the side of my new desk, whenever I actually finish making it). The custom roller-base on the smooth wood in here lets me easily slide it around with a finger in much the same way as the cart, and an awkward staircase means in practice it’s never really going anywhere else but here. The rather uncomfortable sprawling on the floor to deal with lower pipework and PSU cables may be undignified, but I can live with that.


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post #485 of 528 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 08:54 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by OCDesign View Post
Glad it’s less precarious than it looks! How are the casters on it? In my experience good quality stuff is so often badly let down by being fitted with cheap plastic casters, which seem fine…right up to the moment they don’t. And with the centre of gravity so high up it only takes one to send a lot of money very quickly to the ground.

For myself having the machine up on a cart is probably of limited advantage. Doubtless it would be more convenient to work on at that height, but the Ironbeast rig was always intended to go on the floor and the new build will almost certainly do likewise (fitting into a sort of ‘docking bay’ in the side of my new desk, whenever I actually finish making it). The custom roller-base on the smooth wood in here lets me easily slide it around with a finger in much the same way as the cart, and an awkward staircase means in practice it’s never really going anywhere else but here. The rather uncomfortable sprawling on the floor to deal with lower pipework and PSU cables may be undignified, but I can live with that.
^oops, missed this one the other day (been a few hectic couple of days).

I wouldn't necessary call the casters impervious to damage, but I think they'll hold up well given my use case. Looking at them from where I sit now I'd say they're about 3" tall, and maybe 0.75" wide, made of hard material. As I mentioned earlier on though, the weakest part of the product are the plastic bushings that are inserted into the frame, one of which arrived with the topmost rim where it seats against the frame broken off (found it in the box, believe it or not). I chalk that one up to handling during shipping, but I wouldn't necessarily blame FedEx who dropped it off at my door. It ships in such a large and flimsy, thin cardboard box that it could have happened anywhere along the way from the factory.

Again, the frame itself is definitely sturdy once assembled. Not sure I'd go soap box derby racing down a steep hill riding it, but I I'm pretty sure it hold up otherwise.


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post #486 of 528 (permalink) Old 03-16-2019, 08:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by OCDesign View Post
I’m speechless. Looking back through the pictures – all this time, how on earth have I not noticed that?

You seriously did this entire build with that huge case - on casters and full of heavy, expensive, painstakingly assembled gear - perched on top of a working height movable cart that is only a little wider than it is? And then just casually wheeled the whole thing around, outside, for photos? I recall the odd set of outdoor pics but assumed that you’d bubble wrapped and boxed it. You’re a lot braver than I am - with Beast that far off the ground I’d have had a heart attack going anywhere near! That was assembled and photographed entirely in this room – it, and me, sitting firmly on the floor (indeed lying on the floor a lot of the time) – and it damn well stayed there! I’ve never moved it further than the adjacent room, with kid gloves and a nervous expression every time…

Quote: Originally Posted by iamjanco View Post
Having used the cart myself for a few days now I have to admit it's a godsend. I don't have a lot of room where I'm currently at, and have been wheeling it around (and turning it in every direction) effortlessly, with what amounts to at least 100lbs of weight on it. It really is rock stable.

Just make sure if you decide to get one that you've also got a rubber mallet on hand. While the cart pretty much came assembled and was shipped in a huge box, you'll definitely need that mallet when installing the casters. The only other assembly required was attaching the outlet strip to it (the cabling is heavy gauge, the strip itself somewhat cheap), and positioning the upper section of the cart onto the lower section to set the height of the cart, then bolting those two sections together.

Given what's available today for the same amount of money, it gets a 4.5 (out of 5) from me. Took a half a star off for one cracked plastic bushing used to seat the casters, but I was able to work around that. Packaging could have been better too; but it was what it was.

@Barefooter ...and thanks for the plugs, BF!

Quote: Originally Posted by OCDesign View Post
Glad it’s less precarious than it looks! How are the casters on it? In my experience good quality stuff is so often badly let down by being fitted with cheap plastic casters, which seem fine…right up to the moment they don’t. And with the centre of gravity so high up it only takes one to send a lot of money very quickly to the ground.


For myself having the machine up on a cart is probably of limited advantage. Doubtless it would be more convenient to work on at that height, but the Ironbeast rig was always intended to go on the floor and the new build will almost certainly do likewise (fitting into a sort of ‘docking bay’ in the side of my new desk, whenever I actually finish making it). The custom roller-base on the smooth wood in here lets me easily slide it around with a finger in much the same way as the cart, and an awkward staircase means in practice it’s never really going anywhere else but here. The rather uncomfortable sprawling on the floor to deal with lower pipework and PSU cables may be undignified, but I can live with that.

Quote: Originally Posted by iamjanco View Post
^oops, missed this one the other day (been a few hectic couple of days).

I wouldn't necessary call the casters impervious to damage, but I think they'll hold up well given my use case. Looking at them from where I sit now I'd say they're about 3" tall, and maybe 0.75" wide, made of hard material. As I mentioned earlier on though, the weakest part of the product are the plastic bushings that are inserted into the frame, one of which arrived with the topmost rim where it seats against the frame broken off (found it in the box, believe it or not). I chalk that one up to handling during shipping, but I wouldn't necessarily blame FedEx who dropped it off at my door. It ships in such a large and flimsy, thin cardboard box that it could have happened anywhere along the way from the factory.

Again, the frame itself is definitely sturdy once assembled. Not sure I'd go soap box derby racing down a steep hill riding it, but I I'm pretty sure it hold up otherwise.
Before I purchased the cart I was looking into getting a hydraulic table cart, where I could raise and lower the build to different heights, but they were much more expensive and I didn't want the handle/jack portion to be in my way. So I went with this cart. It is not much larger than the build dimensions which is what I wanted. There is a version without the keyboard tray too, although I've mostly used the keyboard tray for tools or parts at times

As @iamjanco mentioned the cart is quite sturdy! It is called an "A/V Cart" so it's made for heavy equipment. In fact it's rated for up to 300lbs. My case is on casters, but all four casters are locked down and it really doesn't budge. There is a nice raised lip around the top of the cart too.

Here's a product link The storage shelves come in quite handy as well. I've had four 2.5 gallon distilled water containers on the bottom at one time.

I mostly just turn it around or move it only a few feet at a time on a smooth concrete floor. When I roll it out into the back yard for photos it's probably less than 30 feet away, but I do roll it very carefully then, and it goes over my paver patio just fine.

You can also leave to top leg pieces off and just put the top on the lower leg pieces for a strong short table like this.




Quote: Originally Posted by emsj86 View Post
Loving how the build is turning out. I think I went thru 6 different re builds in the time this has been going together. Its nice to see the detail and patience you are having to make this great
Thanks man! Yes, I'm certainly not setting any speed records here, but the end is getting close now

As one of my first subscribers thank you for following along!



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post #487 of 528 (permalink) Old 03-16-2019, 01:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Modding the NVLink Bridge... again

As soon as I had the first video card waterblock installed, I reached over to my NVLink bridge to see how it fits… and it doesn’t fit! The pointed ends hit the terminal blocks of the video cards. Well I never saw that coming!

Obviously I was not happy about that! I immediately took out my Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel, and cut the tips of the NVLink bridge off. I figured if it doesn’t work I’ll have to buy a different NVLink bridge anyway.

I did take the bridge apart before cutting off the tips, and then filed it down flat.




It does fit on the video cards with the tips cut down like this. I’ll have to admit that I did consider just leaving this edge like it was because it hardly shows… but I just can’t do that.




I picked up some J-B Weld 8237 PlasticWeld Epoxy Putty. I have used J-B Weld before with great success, but this is the first time I’ve used this particular product. It is more of a putty consistency rather than liquid.

You just cut a piece off the end, the outer layer is blue and the inside is white, and then mix it together until it's all one color. This is how much I mixed up to use.




I just formed a piece on each end, and let it harden 24 hours.






Then I just used a file, and sandpaper to smooth it out to match the bridge.









I repainted the entire bridge, and let the paint dry for a week. Here’s a look at the bridge before I cut the tips off.




Here’s the new shorter modded version of the NVLink bridge. Looks good to me






Here we go with the NVLink bridge installed. One thing I neglected to mention in my post on installing the waterblocks, I also flipped the terminal blocks over so the “Watercool” logo is right side up on my reverse ATX build. The terminal blocks are symmetrical, and therefore can easily be mounted either way.

I can’t tell you how happy this makes me! If you haven’t noticed it already, I have removed as many labels, logos, and branding as I can on this build. The “Watercool” logos on the terminal blocks are going to be about the only really noticeable logos on the build.




I also swapped out the allen socket stop plugs in the terminal blocks for the Bitspower low profile stop plugs that I have used throughout the build.





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post #488 of 528 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 03:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Reinstalling the Hard Disk Drives – The Last Bend

After Seagate admitted to messing up my RMA by only sending me one of two hard drives, they did step up to the plate, and shipped me the second one via over-night shipping.
The hardest part of this whole removal and reinstallation of the hard drive cage assembly is going to be plugging the LED connectors back into the Splitty9 under the reservoir on the back side here.

I removed this upper front pull fan for access to the LED wires.




After I removed the waterblocks from the hard drives, you can see that the spindle area makes great contact, but the circuit board area really didn’t make good contact.




I had enough of the 1mm thermal pad material left over to cover the spindle areas of both hard drives, and I purchased a sheet of 1.5mm thermal pad to cover the circuit board area. I had to buy more thermal pad material anyway, and I think this will work a little better.




Waterblocks remounted.




Now to put the LED harnesses back in, and remount the hard drives in the cage.




Zip tied the harnesses around the back side.




Hard drive cage ready to reinstall.






Reinstalled the top tube from the hard drives to the upper radiator on this side.




Time to put the hard drive power cable, and SATA cables in while there is better access without the lower tubing in place.






The Last Bend

I had to dig the bending board out for the last bend for this build. When I originally made the tube from the hard drive waterblocks to the SSD block I was not sure how the tubing was going to exactly work out for the video cards since I did not have them yet.




I had previously made the tube from the hard drives going to the front port on the SSD waterblock, as the instructions actually show the rear port as the input port which would come from the video card blocks. I’m going to redo that tube so that it goes to the rear port because I like the way the tubing from the video card waterblocks blends nicely going into the front port of the SSD waterblock.

Looking at the waterblock here I don’t think it really matters which way the water flows through this block anyway. Especially since the SSD doesn’t even really need to be water cooled. I would suspect there would be less than one degree difference in temperature as to the flow direction, if there is any difference at all.




If I was really thinking ahead I would have made this tube like this to start with then I could have merely shortened it if I needed to. Anyway here is the last tube to complete the loop.








I did not test these hard drives first... just going for it, and hope that they work ok


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post #489 of 528 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 06:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Final Leak Test – Blitz Part 2 Flushing – List of Fittings Used

Since the loop is now complete, I ran a final leak test for 24 hours. A large portion of the loop has been running for quite some time now, but from the CPU block, through the video card blocks, the SSD block, the HDD blocks, and up to the top radiator on this side is all new or newly reinstalled. Thankfully no leaks!

I really debated whether or not I should do a final Mayhems Blitz Part 2 flushing because the fluid looks nice and clean, I can’t see any debris anywhere. Besides the fact that I already have the Blitz Part 2 on hand, there are three main reasons why I decided to go ahead and flush the entire system with Blitz Part 2.

First of all, even though I thoroughly flushed, and cleaned all the radiators with Blitz Part 1 and Blitz Part 2 early on before I installed the radiators, quite some time has passed since then. Secondly I’ve had just distilled water in the system several times, then drained the system, and it sat with some residual water in it for several weeks or months at a time.

The third reason is that although draining and filling the system in my workshop with it on a cart is fairly easy, but once this rig is moved into my office it will be a real pain to drain and fill. I will either have to put some wood blocks under the case to lift it up off of the floor, or more likely roll it over to the edge of the stairs, and put a bucket a few steps below to drain the coolant into.

The fluid with the Blitz Part 2 has a blueish tint to it, and also foams up especially as soon as you turn on the pumps.




Back when I put distilled water with red dye in the system when I had a soft tube bypassing the video cards remember how the red coloring just vanished after a few days? The Blitz Part 2 is obviously doing something here. This was after running the pumps a few times before the system was even full of the Blitz Part 2.




Here’s the other side. The pinkish coloring ended up turning mostly clear not long after it was completely full of Blitz Part 2 and it circulated for a bit.




After I flushed the system with Blitz Part 2 for 24 hours, I drained it into this five gallon bucket. On my last order to PPCs I added these shut off valves to the drain hoses, this way water does not come out as soon as the drain tubes are connected.

These are Barrow shut off valves, I’ve never used Barrow fittings. I wanted to try these because they have metal handles, unlike the Bitspower valves that have plastic handles. I have had three of the Bitspower ones and the handle has broken on every one of them!

These shut off valve do have a metal handle… however they don’t completely shut the water flow off! I was just going to leave these drain tubes hooked up until I was done flushing, but can’t since they leak. Not a big deal as I can easily remove the drain tubes from the quick disconnects. Just beware if you get these fitting they may not completely shut off the water flow.

I made sure to get the cart in the shot here especially for @OCDesign

Here you can see the Blitz Part 2 drained into the bucket, a spare power supply on the shelf powering up the pumps, and some spare distilled water on the bottom.




I was quite surprised to see how much debris was in the bottom of the bucket that had drained out of the system, especially how thoroughly I thought I had cleaned the radiators out originally.




It’s kind of hard to see in the photo.




The Blitz Part 2 instructions state to then fill the system, run for 30 minutes, then drain and fill a second time, run 30 more minutes and drain again, then you can put the coolant in. I really only had time to do one drain and fill each evening, so I filled the system with distilled water ran for 24 hours, then drained it the next evening. I got more debris out this time, but not nearly as much.

I filled the system again, and ran the pumps for another 24 hours. This time I only got a little bit of debris out, but there was still stuff in there. After a third fill and run over night, this time hardly any debris was in the bottom of the bucket. So I filled it a fourth time, and plan to leave that water in the system until everything is completely dialed in before I do a final drain and fill the system with coolant.

Fittings list

Now that the loop is completely finished I made a fitting inventory spread sheet of all the fittings used. I ended up using a total of 128 fittings, 45 of those were some kind of stop plug fitting, six of which came with the reservoirs. Just think about how many fittings I would have used if I had not switch to using bent tubing




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post #490 of 528 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 11:41 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Barefooter View Post
After I flushed the system with Blitz Part 2 for 24 hours, I drained it into this five gallon bucket. On my last order to PPCs I added these shut off valves to the drain hoses, this way water does not come out as soon as the drain tubes are connected.

These are Barrow shut off valves, I’ve never used Barrow fittings. I wanted to try these because they have metal handles, unlike the Bitspower valves that have plastic handles. I have had three of the Bitspower ones and the handle has broken on every one of them!

These shut off valve do have a metal handle… however they don’t completely shut the water flow off! I was just going to leave these drain tubes hooked up until I was done flushing, but can’t since they leak. Not a big deal as I can easily remove the drain tubes from the quick disconnects. Just beware if you get these fitting they may not completely shut off the water flow.
I tried Bitspower shut off . I tried the early Barrow shut offs due to the plastic handle. Since then I have only used the new metal handle Barrow versions with no problems. No observed leaks.

The latest value I have tried is the EKWB EK-AF G1/4" 10mm Ball Valve (Black) and while I haven't actually used it in the system (yet), it seems very nice ... open / shut action is very smooth. The Barrow valves are a little sticky.

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