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[Build Log] Humble SM5 MK2: Even more humbler

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post #21 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 01:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Lighting

Yep lights are getting a separate update because the way I did it is as far as I've seen different to the way everyone else has.


Remote & Receivers

What makes my set up possible and makes it so stupidly simple is the remote and receivers, I bought these off Banggood for dirt cheap I think total it was $30 or $40 for the remote and 4 receivers. You can get them in RGB (red, green blue), RGBW (red, green, blue, white) or W/WW (white / warm white) in 12v or 24v.

I wont post links but if you go to Banggood and search "Mi Light Remote" or receiver they'll come up.


Remote



So the remote is pretty simple, the one I have is touch sensitive (like the above pic) but you can get a physical button one but the colour and brightness selectors are still touch sensitive.

What's so special about the remote, well for one it's no IR like most, it's a 2.4GHz RF one so not only don't you need to point it at the receivers you don't even have to be in the same room. The second thing that makes it awesome is it can have 4 receivers per remote so you can control 4 completely different strips (like I do, more on this later). It takes 2 AAA batteries and as far as I can tell it doesn't chew through them to badly which is a plus. I haven't actually tested the range but it should be far enough for most stuff, my place is a bit to small to really test it.

As for colours you have a pretty good selection and with the touch selector you can get pretty much whatever one your after but it can be a little fiddly, same with the brightness can be fiddly.

With being able to have 4 separate receivers you can set them to different colours, brightness's and even modes, so channel 1 could be static blue, channel 2, colour shifting etc. you get the idea, you can also turn each channel on / off independently or use the "master" on / off at the top of the remote to turn all of them off.


Receivers



These are pretty simple, they have screw terminals for the led strip side and one for a power input or (what I used) a 12v DC barrel jack. There also pretty small.

As I already said these come in 12v or 24v and RGB, RGBW (what I have) or W/WW and they have quite a few modes (in spoiler).

Modes (Click to show)
Program1 (RGBW Fade in Fade out)
This program fades in and fades out the color red, green, blue and white one after another.
Program2 (color Flash)
In this program, red, green,blue, white yellow purple flashes to change.
Program3 (Disco)
Different color strobe and flash to change.
Program4 (Red Color Ramp up and Flash)
In this program, red color brightens from 0% - 100% and shuts down, then flashes three times.
Program5 (Green color ramp up and flash)
In this program, green color brightens from 0% - 100% and shuts down, then flashes three times.
Program6 (Blue color ramp up and flash)
In this program, blue color brightens from 0% -100% and shuts down, then flashes three times.
Program7 (color change + flash)
Here several colors fade into each other and then flash randomly.
Program8 (Fade in and fade out)
Here different colors fade into each other.
Program9 (Strobe white)
Just white color flashes up.

Aside from that there isn't much else to really say about the receivers.


My set up


Let me explain how my set up is done. I'm using RGBW lights because I wanted a proper white LED not a mixed white of RGB, everything was done custom which means I bought the RGBW cable and soldered everything myself.

First thing first, I'm using all 4 channels they are:

  • Channel 1, desk.
  • Channel 2, monitors.
  • Channel 3, speakers.
  • Channel 4, PC.




Here are the receivers on my wall, they have a 12v 6a power supply (blue tape is holding the label on lol), there all just velcroed onto the wall and hidden by the PC.

I also have another one in the PC as you can see from the previous post of the back of the case.




Lighting it's self

As I previously said I soldered everything so wiring it all up was pretty easy, the only thing that made it a little tricky was the pads on the strip are very small and so are the wires and if you use to much heat the pads pull off.

Desk: Has a 1.8m long strip on it.

Monitors: Have 3, 50cm long strips with clip connectors between them.

Speakers: 2, 5cm strips with separate codes with the ends just twisted together and shoved in the receiver.

PC: 2, 30cm strips one up top one down bottom, power cable is a DC jack to Molex.


These pics are from the PC lighting but all the rest looks the same aside from the sleeving and defused channels.










You can see I used a little bit of Kapton tape before I used heat shrink because I knew my shrink wouldn't fully seal it.

Can also see the 2 different LED's for the RGB and White.




So that's my lighting set up, just thought some of you might find it interesting.


Notes

For those of you who are thinking about doing this and want to do multiple receivers like I did, I highly recommend you solder them, you can use connectors for the LED strip then strip the wires for the receivers but soldering will give a far better connection.

The reason I recommend soldering them is because my monitor ones that have connectors between the strips (I was lazy), I occasionally have problems with the colours being different, what I mean is the left strip will show the purple colour I want but the right one will be more pink because it's not getting a good enough connection through to it.

What I personally used to do most of these is a simple cheap USB soldering iron running off a 10,000mha power bank, I ran it off a power bank rather from the wall is 2 reason, 1 you need a long USB cord which I didn't have and 2, bigclivedotcom on Youtube (awesome channel btw) found that with the USB soldering iron you could potentially put mains voltage through the tip of the iron which would damage what your working on, with LED's it's not that big of a deal but I still personally wouldn't do it just because putting full 240v, 10a through a tiny soldering iron doesn't sound very fun. In saying that, the USB iron is pretty much a perfect temp and has a perfect tip size for doing these RGBW strips especially if your like me and have crap eyes and shaky hands redface.gif.

Also don't tin the wires (put solder on the wires) that go into the screw terminals, they could slip / pull out and they may not get a good connection, I suppose you can get away with it for the LED's but if your using bare wires for the power just don't tin them, leave them bare.

Now for the people saying "but soldering is to hard", no, no it's not, it's actually pretty easy and can be a useful skill to have once you have the hang of it, Youtube is your best friend, EEVBlog does a good video about it, although Dave does waffle a bit.

Humble SM5 MK2
(23 items)
CPU
AMD Ryzen 7 1800X
Motherboard
MSI B350M Mortar Arctic
GPU
MSI GTX 1070 ARMOR OC
RAM
G.Skill Trident Z F4-3200C14D-32GTZKW 32GB
Hard Drive
Samsung 960 EVO NVMe M.2 250GB
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 EVO 1TB
Hard Drive
Western Digital Blue WD10EZEX 1TB
Power Supply
EVGA Supernova G2 850W
Cooling
Corsair H100i V2
Cooling
Corsair ML120 Pro x5
Case
CaseLabs SM5
Operating System
Windows 10 Enterprise 2016 LTSB 64-Bit
Monitor
Dell U2414H
Monitor
Dell U2414H
Monitor
Asus VG248QE
Keyboard
WASD CODE 87-Key - Cherry MX Clear
Mouse
Zowie FK1
Mousepad
Artisan ZERO MID Black Large Mouse Pad
Audio
JDS Labs Element
Audio
Sennheiser HD 599
Audio
Samson Q2U
Audio
Swan M50W Powered 2.1 System
Audio
Rode AI1
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post #22 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-06-2017, 12:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Small Update

Not much to say in this one.

Fans

Ended up getting some new fans for the H100i V2 and the case, Corsair ML120 Pro's, cost $150 for all 5 which isn't to bad.





Decent fans for the price and the best part, so much quieter than those stupid stock H100i V2 ones yessir.gif.

Monitors

These may be pushed back a bit, I'm not 100% sure yet, need to upgrade the NAS because I'm running out of room so changing that whole thing to a server rack set up which the games server will also go into, will be rather costly and one the server chassis I'm eye it's time limited so monitors may have to wait for at most a couple of months, just have to see how everything goes.

Humble SM5 MK2
(23 items)
CPU
AMD Ryzen 7 1800X
Motherboard
MSI B350M Mortar Arctic
GPU
MSI GTX 1070 ARMOR OC
RAM
G.Skill Trident Z F4-3200C14D-32GTZKW 32GB
Hard Drive
Samsung 960 EVO NVMe M.2 250GB
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 EVO 1TB
Hard Drive
Western Digital Blue WD10EZEX 1TB
Power Supply
EVGA Supernova G2 850W
Cooling
Corsair H100i V2
Cooling
Corsair ML120 Pro x5
Case
CaseLabs SM5
Operating System
Windows 10 Enterprise 2016 LTSB 64-Bit
Monitor
Dell U2414H
Monitor
Dell U2414H
Monitor
Asus VG248QE
Keyboard
WASD CODE 87-Key - Cherry MX Clear
Mouse
Zowie FK1
Mousepad
Artisan ZERO MID Black Large Mouse Pad
Audio
JDS Labs Element
Audio
Sennheiser HD 599
Audio
Samson Q2U
Audio
Swan M50W Powered 2.1 System
Audio
Rode AI1
▲ hide details ▲
Aussiejuggalo is online now  
post #23 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 01:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Thought some of you might find this funny.
Attached Thumbnails
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Humble SM5 MK2
(23 items)
CPU
AMD Ryzen 7 1800X
Motherboard
MSI B350M Mortar Arctic
GPU
MSI GTX 1070 ARMOR OC
RAM
G.Skill Trident Z F4-3200C14D-32GTZKW 32GB
Hard Drive
Samsung 960 EVO NVMe M.2 250GB
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 EVO 1TB
Hard Drive
Western Digital Blue WD10EZEX 1TB
Power Supply
EVGA Supernova G2 850W
Cooling
Corsair H100i V2
Cooling
Corsair ML120 Pro x5
Case
CaseLabs SM5
Operating System
Windows 10 Enterprise 2016 LTSB 64-Bit
Monitor
Dell U2414H
Monitor
Dell U2414H
Monitor
Asus VG248QE
Keyboard
WASD CODE 87-Key - Cherry MX Clear
Mouse
Zowie FK1
Mousepad
Artisan ZERO MID Black Large Mouse Pad
Audio
JDS Labs Element
Audio
Sennheiser HD 599
Audio
Samson Q2U
Audio
Swan M50W Powered 2.1 System
Audio
Rode AI1
▲ hide details ▲
Aussiejuggalo is online now  
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