Yep lights are getting a separate update because the way I did it is as far as I've seen different to the way everyone else has.Remote & Receivers
What makes my set up possible and makes it so stupidly simple is the remote and receivers, I bought these off Banggood for dirt cheap I think total it was $30 or $40 for the remote and 4 receivers. You can get them in RGB (red, green blue), RGBW (red, green, blue, white) or W/WW (white / warm white) in 12v or 24v.
I wont post links but if you go to Banggood and search "Mi Light Remote" or receiver they'll come up.Remote
So the remote is pretty simple, the one I have is touch sensitive (like the above pic) but you can get a physical button one but the colour and brightness selectors are still touch sensitive.
What's so special about the remote, well for one it's no IR like most, it's a 2.4GHz RF one so not only don't you need to point it at the receivers you don't even have to be in the same room. The second thing that makes it awesome is it can have 4 receivers per remote so you can control 4 completely different strips (like I do, more on this later). It takes 2 AAA batteries and as far as I can tell it doesn't chew through them to badly which is a plus. I haven't actually tested the range but it should be far enough for most stuff, my place is a bit to small to really test it.
As for colours you have a pretty good selection and with the touch selector you can get pretty much whatever one your after but it can be a little fiddly, same with the brightness can be fiddly.
With being able to have 4 separate receivers you can set them to different colours, brightness's and even modes, so channel 1 could be static blue, channel 2, colour shifting etc. you get the idea, you can also turn each channel on / off independently or use the "master" on / off at the top of the remote to turn all of them off.Receivers
These are pretty simple, they have screw terminals for the led strip side and one for a power input or (what I used) a 12v DC barrel jack. There also pretty small.
As I already said these come in 12v or 24v and RGB, RGBW (what I have) or W/WW and they have quite a few modes (in spoiler).Modes (Click to show)
Program1 (RGBW Fade in Fade out)
This program fades in and fades out the color red, green, blue and white one after another.
Program2 (color Flash)
In this program, red, green,blue, white yellow purple flashes to change.
Different color strobe and flash to change.
Program4 (Red Color Ramp up and Flash)
In this program, red color brightens from 0% - 100% and shuts down, then flashes three times.
Program5 (Green color ramp up and flash)
In this program, green color brightens from 0% - 100% and shuts down, then flashes three times.
Program6 (Blue color ramp up and flash)
In this program, blue color brightens from 0% -100% and shuts down, then flashes three times.
Program7 (color change + flash)
Here several colors fade into each other and then flash randomly.
Program8 (Fade in and fade out)
Here different colors fade into each other.
Program9 (Strobe white)
Just white color flashes up.
Aside from that there isn't much else to really say about the receivers.My set up
Let me explain how my set up is done. I'm using RGBW lights because I wanted a proper white LED not a mixed white of RGB, everything was done custom which means I bought the RGBW cable and soldered everything myself.
First thing first, I'm using all 4 channels they are:
- Channel 1, desk.
- Channel 2, monitors.
- Channel 3, speakers.
- Channel 4, PC.
Here are the receivers on my wall, they have a 12v 6a power supply (blue tape is holding the label on lol)
, there all just velcroed onto the wall and hidden by the PC.
I also have another one in the PC as you can see from the previous post of the back of the case.Lighting it's self
As I previously said I soldered everything so wiring it all up was pretty easy, the only thing that made it a little tricky was the pads on the strip are very small and so are the wires and if you use to much heat the pads pull off.Desk:
Has a 1.8m long strip on it.Monitors:
Have 3, 50cm long strips with clip connectors between them.Speakers:
2, 5cm strips with separate codes with the ends just twisted together and shoved in the receiver.PC:
2, 30cm strips one up top one down bottom, power cable is a DC jack to Molex.
These pics are from the PC lighting but all the rest looks the same aside from the sleeving and defused channels.
You can see I used a little bit of Kapton tape before I used heat shrink because I knew my shrink wouldn't fully seal it.
Can also see the 2 different LED's for the RGB and White.So that's my lighting set up, just thought some of you might find it interesting.Notes
For those of you who are thinking about doing this and want to do multiple receivers like I did, I highly recommend you solder them, you can use connectors for the LED strip then strip the wires for the receivers but soldering will give a far better connection.
The reason I recommend soldering them is because my monitor ones that have connectors between the strips (I was lazy), I occasionally have problems with the colours being different, what I mean is the left strip will show the purple colour I want but the right one will be more pink because it's not getting a good enough connection through to it.
What I personally used to do most of these is a simple cheap USB soldering iron running off a 10,000mha power bank, I ran it off a power bank rather from the wall is 2 reason, 1 you need a long USB cord which I didn't have and 2, bigclivedotcom on Youtube (awesome channel btw) found that with the USB soldering iron you could potentially put mains voltage through the tip of the iron which would damage what your working on, with LED's it's not that
big of a deal but I still personally wouldn't do it just because putting full 240v, 10a through a tiny soldering iron doesn't sound very fun. In saying that, the USB iron is pretty much a perfect temp and has a perfect tip size for doing these RGBW strips especially if your like me and have crap eyes and shaky hands
tin the wires (put solder on the wires) that go into the screw terminals, they could slip / pull out and they may not get a good connection, I suppose you can get away with it for the LED's but if your using bare wires for the power just don't tin them, leave them bare.
Now for the people saying "but soldering is to hard", no, no it's not, it's actually pretty easy and can be a useful skill to have once you have the hang of it, Youtube is your best friend, EEVBlog does a good video about it, although Dave does waffle a bit.