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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 06:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Back connectors

So. Ive been doing a lot of thinking in this. Ive tested it out on several "bad" motherboards. I want to take all of my connectors. Like the 24 pin. Eps. And my fan cables and solder them back onto the backside of my motherbaord and have it look completely cableless. Ive tried a 4 pin eps. And have done the case mods to open up the back where the connectors go to make room for clearance. I know the eps connector is easy. And all id have to do is pretty much 180 the 24pin connectors. Has anyone else thought of this?

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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 06:20 PM
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It has been done before. Just remember to reverse the pins in the cables going to the connectors.

Jeannie
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 08:34 AM - Thread Starter
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I've never actually seen it done and couldn't find any pictures on it, I understand that i would need to either make new cables. I plan on doing so that i have the nice correct length and probably doing every wire individually so that i can be as precise as i need to be so that i can make routing them Easier so i don't have 2 feet of cable being bunched up in one place.

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 01:52 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by TPClausen View Post
I've never actually seen it done and couldn't find any pictures on it, I understand that i would need to either make new cables. I plan on doing so that i have the nice correct length and probably doing every wire individually so that i can be as precise as i need to be so that i can make routing them Easier so i don't have 2 feet of cable being bunched up in one place.
Someone here (I think @Duality92 ) actually did something like that here a while back. I couldn't find it in the quick search I did here (the forums search engine has been next to useless since the botched migration).

Edit: Methinks it may be this one (https://www.overclock.net/forum/362-...ality92-8.html) except some, if not all of the cables were going to be soldered directly to the back of the MOBO instead of merely swapping around the sockets (my three remaining brain cells are Benadryl befuddled right now).

Jeannie
CPU
i7-3930k
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
GPU
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
GPU
Monoprice 1x2 powered HDMI Splitter
RAM
Kingston HyperX 32GB (8 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model KHX1600C9D3K8/32GX
Hard Drive
128GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD
Hard Drive
4TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD
Hard Drive
4TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD
Hard Drive
4TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD
Hard Drive
4TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD
Optical Drive
LG 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA Internal Blu-ray Drive CH12LS28
Power Supply
Corsair HX750W
Cooling
COOLER MASTER GeminII S524 120mm Long Life Sleeve CPU Cooler
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2
Operating System
Windows 7 Ultimate
Monitor
3 x Asus VG248QE
Monitor
Vizio VO320E 32" TV
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 with Unifying Receiving
Audio
Corsair SP2500 2.1 Speakers
Audio
ASUS Xonar Essence STX Virtual 7.1 Channels 24-bit 192KHz PCI Express x1 Interface 124 dB SNR / Headphone AMP Card
Other
LSI 9211-8i HBA card
Other
HooToo® HT-CR001 3.5" PCI-E to USB 3.0 Multi-in-One Front Panel Internal Card Reader (6 Memory Slots, Genesys GL3220 Chipset) & SuperSpeed USB 3.0 3-Port Hub (VIA VL800 Chipset), can read & write: M2/MS Micro, High-Speed CF(UDMA), UHS-I, SD, SDHC,...
Other
StarTech HSB220SAT25B 2 Drive 2.5in Trayless Hot Swap SATA Mobile Rack Backplane
CPU
i7-5930K Haswell-e
Motherboard
Asus X99-E WS/USB 3.1
GPU
Visiontek Radeon 7870 2GB with 6 miniDisplayports
RAM
G-Skill Ripjaws 64GB (8x8GB) DDR4 2133
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 EVO 4TB SSDs
Hard Drive
Samsung 950 Pro 512GB m.2 SSD boot drive
Power Supply
Corsair AX760
Cooling
Noctua NH-D15S Cpu cooler
Case
Scratch built. Currently under construction at https://www.overclock.net/t/1602023/preparing-for-a-scratch-built-case
Operating System
Win 7 Ultimate
Mouse
Logitech M525
Mouse
El Cheapo Allsop hard plastic
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Last edited by Lady Fitzgerald; 03-22-2019 at 02:04 PM.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 05:10 PM
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I tried doing it, but it's really, really hard to get the 24-pin out, the guy who did it then, basically scratched my board, ripped a few SMT components, so I had to buy a new board. Looking back today, his method was bad, but he did tell me he wasn't sure if he could do it and I told him if he killed the board, I'd just buy a new one. Well, I did have to buy a new one and I instead designed and had manufactured a custom PCB to basically do a 180 to the 24-pin.

What's hard about desoldering the existing pins is the lead free solder, older board has oxidization, the sleeves in the through holes are easily removable if you haven't melted all the solder and if you pull one out, well, your board is scrapped.

It had been done though, just make sure to get someone who really knows what he's doing.

And as Jeannie pointed out my thread, here's the album. https://imageshack.com/a/KuLM/1

Edit : Here are the pictures of the board that no longer worked.

https://www.overclock.net/forum/25787728-post93.html
https://www.overclock.net/forum/25863963-post118.html

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Last edited by Duality92; 03-22-2019 at 05:13 PM.
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