Fractal Node 202 - Plex Server with 240mm AiO - Page 2 - - An Overclocking Community

Forum Jump: 

Fractal Node 202 - Plex Server with 240mm AiO

Thread Tools
post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019, 09:02 AM - Thread Starter
New to
Sharangir's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 373
Rep: 6 (Unique: 6)
That's the gear (minus tubing and fittings)

installing the M.2 drive underneath the heatshield

then the APU, first install (since I had to get a 2400G to update the BIOS, because this pos mobo cannot do q-flash +)

installing the cooler to set up the system and check everything

so far, so good

getting tighter with the few cables I need

I removed the SSD cage to get more space there, but I don't think I'll be doing any sleeving.. just too tight in there.

here's the first super design fail that Fractal delivered with this case:

MANY of the available SFX PSUs have the power socket "upside down".
This wouldn't be an issue, if you coud route the cable along the other side of the PSU, but you can't do that.
I'll have to try and squeeze it on top between PSU and case cover, just because they didn't expect anyone to pick the "wrong PSU" for their internal cable.

Last edited by Sharangir; 08-02-2019 at 10:31 AM.
Sharangir is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019, 09:26 AM - Thread Starter
New to
Sharangir's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 373
Rep: 6 (Unique: 6)
While I was waiting for my upgrade HDDs, I decided to look into Radiator fitting..

Had to remove the bottom case cover so I could take out the GPU support.. Why not tool-less, like other companies? After all, you MUST adjust it's position for most GPUs used in this case.

Putting the radiator in there causes the next problem to arise..

I cannot possibly make extensions long enough without risking anything to break.. So I might have to leave the power socket "hanging" out my cases ass..

Those master designers at Fractal design should really, really think their design over, because no 240mm radiator can fit this way.
Sure, that's not the main purpose by a long shot, but it still would've been pretty easy to solve.
How? Simply move the I/O-panel - and with it, the mainboard - "down" by half an inch and you can route the power cable straight along the "top" edge of the case, without it having to go all the way to the opposite corner of the case.
Like this:

Alternative, since I definitely won't be modding the case, and am not very comfortable with the power socket hanging out like this:
Put the radiator on top of the fans, lifting it above the power socket as well.

But there's another issue at hand now:

I thought about drilling holes into the case roof and fit the tubing through there, but that would look ridiculous.

Very short 90° fittings would work. But all the rotary fittings are way too tall, whereas the non-rotary ones would surely end up pointing somewhere weird.

A look at the pump gave me an idea:

yeah, they would work. Like, 0.1mm clearance left, but work..

But the alphacool shop hasn't listed them anywhere.

I ended up contacting them and asking whether I could buy a pair, explaining my issue.

They replied that they didn't sell these but would send me a pair out of kindness.

I also checked the slit where the PCI-Ex riser cable goes through. It's just wide enough to fit my 11/8mm tubing (norprene), so my plan basically is to go straight from the block to the radiator, with a T-piece in the middle of one tube, to allow for the refill process.

Another major design failure by Fractal here. They have a screw on ONE side of this cover, but the other end is bolted to the case. It's like, "here's a screw, you can practice your skills with a screw driver before you bring out the drill to remove this piece from the case". SCREW you!
Why not make the whole thing removable?! Would've left me with a lot of space for my tubing to go through there (so much so that I could've used 13/10 tubing without the stupid anti-kink springs.)
Also, why is the brigde over the cable routing whole not removable?

Fractal advertises this case as being "aio compatible", but you can NOT install an aio without having to CUT through that metal bridge, destabilising the case, OR opening up the aio (as I am doing with mine), because the CPU block cannot fit through this whole. (I never tried fitting a 120mm rad through there, but I doubt that works..)

They should simply stop using the term "design" in their company name.

Anyways, set up Win64 Pro with newest chipset drivers and got the baby up and running smoothly, with stock cooler. While I'm waiting for these 90° angled fittings, I'm transferring all my data from the external raid 5 (5 x 3 TB WD Red) to a 10TB HDD so I can build a new Raid (Raid 5 with 5 x 4 TB WD Red, since 5 x 6 TB WD HC310 was a bit over my budget and came at a higher price per TB - but as "cheap" as the 6 TB WD Red, so I was tempted and thought it over many times; but ended up with the smaller capacity drives because I doubted I would fill double capacity that quickly..) for my Plex server.

That's it for now.

I've got a few questions left, especially regarding the preferred installation of the radiator:
1. Put it in the bottom with the fans "pushing" air through the rad and outside, and let the power socket hang out?
2. Put it on top of the fans with the fans "pushing" air IN through the rad, creating an overpressure inside the case?
3. Put it on top of the fans with them "pulling" air from inside the case through the radiator and out?

Would you sleeve the cables anyway?
I've got a ton of dark grey (shade 19, if I'm not mistaken) and UV green (atomic green) sleeving from MDPC-X, but the green wouldn't really work with the white fans..
(The fans wouldn't be an issue, if they were beneath the radiator, though.)

I will be away for the next two weeks, so feel free to chime in, bash me, bash Fractal Design, offer help, money, tissues (for all the tears of frustration!) or other things.

If you wonder, how I take these reasonably sharp snapshots...
It's a Mamiya 645 Macro 120mm f/4A on my Nikon DSLR, just the kitchen table lamps/light from the window, no modifiers, flashes, etc. used. Also, shooting on a tripod at iso 100 and 2 to 8 second exposures since I just "snap" at the stuff wherever it currently sits, without looking for good lighting or setting up anything.

Last edited by Sharangir; 08-02-2019 at 09:49 AM.
Sharangir is offline  
post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019, 10:08 AM
Vermin Supreme 2020
skupples's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Bradentucky
Posts: 25,481
Rep: 737 (Unique: 388)

Add me on Steam, same name
R.I.P. Zawarudo, may you OC angels' wings in heaven.
If something appears too good to be true, it probably is.
skupples is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 04:38 AM - Thread Starter
New to
Sharangir's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 373
Rep: 6 (Unique: 6)
Any suggestions or feedback?

I'd like to finish this build over the weekend...
Sharangir is offline  
post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 03:36 AM - Thread Starter
New to
Sharangir's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 373
Rep: 6 (Unique: 6)
got them angled connectors

made a fillport

opened up the rad and washed it.. (no gunk inside)

they fit nicely

installed the radiator with the fans pulling out the air to the floor

the screws got in the way of the magnetic filter thingy.. but it worked out in the end..
Sharangir is offline  
post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 03:48 AM - Thread Starter
New to
Sharangir's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 373
Rep: 6 (Unique: 6)
On to the CPU installation.

tiny blob of liquid metal on there

ten (10!) minutes of carefully spreading that gunk..

on goes the pumpblockres with fillport-hole

cables from the fans fit very nicely

there's a hole for everything..

why the USB3.0 connector must be so massive, I'll never understand..

tubes installed

right, forgot the fillport.. but it looks so cool without.

I left the springy anti-kink thingies on, because the slim norprene tube is very prone to kinking.

cable "management"

and done
Sharangir is offline  
post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 04:13 AM - Thread Starter
New to
Sharangir's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 373
Rep: 6 (Unique: 6)
Took some more pics after filling the loop..

Took me several hours, because the fillport is in a stupid orientation and the radiator preferred to keep the air bubbles to itself..

Also, several rounds with the hair dryer, because distilled water got spilled in the process.

the fins on the rad aren't "nicely" painted, but the thick paint layer on some rads just causes a deterioration in cooling performance

birds view

it turned out very nicely, despite the fact that I didn't sleeve anything..

which isn't necessary, since you don't see a thing

except for the logo on the cooler

finally, settled into the spot where it was meant to go

I used the Bios to adjust the speed of the fans and the pump accordingly, because the pump tends to get quite noisy at full speed.
The fans stay inaudible at all times now, even at prime max heat runs. The CPU doesn't go beyond 70°C and the pump isn't audible either.

What I want to do next, is set a negative voltage offset to keep power consumption and temps even lower.

I set up my Plex server and it works nicely with the TV (sitting right above the rig, connected to the same LAN hub) but there's no remote access.
Unfortunately, we're in a company network and they won't allow that stuff..

Add to that the fact that the LAN socket in the wall is on a different Network than the W-Lan (Access Point) in the other corner of the house, where the antenna from the Plex server doesn't reach to.
Meaning, I cannot even stream the music to my darn phone while on the wireless of my own house.

I wasn't able to set up a range extender (even replaced the Nighthawk because support told me it was broken, but had to realise that the Router simply didn't allow to extend the range from the access point in our house, who knows why..)
and they don't allow me to set up an access point at that other wall socket, so I'm out of luck here.

Anyways, I hope somebody liked this project and I am very happy with the outcome, since I was able to install a 240mm AiO in this darned DESIGN-failure of a case, without a single case mod necessary.

Cheers all

P.S.: one last question
How in the world can I dim that stupid LED in the front?
It's blindingly bright, even with the cover installed. Who in the world installs LEDs this bright in a case intended for HTPC use?
Sharangir is offline  

eisbaer , eisbaer lt240 , Htpc , node , node 202

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the - An Overclocking Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page

Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off