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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-21-2020, 01:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Measure twice, cut ... many

It's not like I have OCD or anything... but they weren't the same length. Yes some of these cuts may have been less than a millimetre.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-21-2020, 01:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by Gilles3000 View Post
Subbed! What kind of cable (and gauge) are you using? Don't think I've seen any that hold bends that well.
It is the MPDC-X 15AWG transparent wire. It is not cheap, but since its kind of the feature of this build, I think it should be worth it.
Although it helps if don't make a mess of some the measuring and have to order more...
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-21-2020, 01:58 PM - Thread Starter
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and the biggest problem with this wire..

.. is that is so thick. Where you need two wires into one connector it is almost impossible. In a cheap imitation of some proper cable splicing, I actually cut about a quarter of the strands out and shaved off some of the sleeve just so I could squeeze into the connectors. It also needs a LOT of pressure during the crimp.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-21-2020, 02:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Power cabling ... done

I'm really happy with the bits that you can see. The flip-up door that should hide these cables is not coming back in this case!

I do also have some 23AWG for re-wiring all of the fans and switch cables.. so more soon.

Oh, and something has to be done about that orange LED (Pic 3).
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-04-2020, 04:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Phase II
New bits arrived!!!

They almost fit. As much as I appreciate the LT120 being supplied two fans that would make it a 75mm thick block, that is not going to fit here. Instead I'm using an NF-A12x15 which is really quiet, I see what the fuss is about. The only problem there is that the supplied M3x30 screws need replacing with M3x20s. For the moment I can temporarily bush out with some nuts. The LT block is silent below 60%.

There was a fair amount of slosh from the tank, so I'm just giving it a run without any cooling duties, to make sure that the air gets trapped in the rad. I may yet top-up the pump block, but so far it seems ok. Have to see if that changes when the pump is above the rad..
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Last edited by AlSki.net; 04-04-2020 at 01:13 PM.
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-05-2020, 03:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Well that was erm.... fun....

Firstly, while this case will take a 120mm rad, I can confirm that there is exactly 149.9mm below the centre cable tray and the bottom of the case. This meant that after initial attempts to work out how to fit the rad, there is now a tiny little crease on the top of it. I really hope I don't need a warranty claim now. :-)

Given that I couldn't fit the rad in landscape, it blocks the GPU power cables, then the only way to fit this was in portrait with the fan against the side of the case. That allowed the base to flex a little more. This might be the optimal way, but some choice would have been nice.

Unfortunately the fan screw holes in the Shift do not line up in this direction. They are a fraction of a mm too high on the left (looking into the shift) which results in about 10degree lean on the screws through the fan into the rad, but on the right it is just too much of a stretch to line the rad up. This isn't a big problem given how much this is wedged in, but I really don't want to drop the case now. I've ordered some M3x20mm and when they arrive I can take another look.

At first I thought I was going to be able to mount the AIO on the CPU without removing the MB from the case, but that got rather sticky when the backplate pinged off. If you move it to the MB box, then the box holds the backplate in place, much easier. While I was in there I removed all the stickers from the Motherboard, its just black now :-)
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-05-2020, 03:17 PM - Thread Starter
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I made my own ribbon cable Pt1.

Quote: Originally Posted by Gilles3000 View Post
Subbed! What kind of cable (and gauge) are you using? Don't think I've seen any that hold bends that well.
Well that was prophetic.
So 23AWG does hold its bends but not quite as well.

What I wanted was something like ribbon cable, but only joined after the curves had been added. so I have spent most of the day applying tiny amounts of superglue. Here's a quick before and after shot.
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-05-2020, 03:31 PM - Thread Starter
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While I was doing this, I also rewired the power switch, and also the chassis fan cable as well.

The plan is now slightly changed. Instead of cutting the case internally to fit in a 240down the front, I'm going to instead fit 2x120 in the same space. Not only does this mean that I shouldn't need to cut as much, I will also have a thicker 120 rad at the bottom, and just the ultra slim at the top, but it also means I need to wire 2x radiator fans connected to the CPU fan header, and the chassis fan header will just be used for the basement. So the chassis fan cable is now almost top to bottom of the case.
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Last edited by AlSki.net; 04-25-2020 at 02:02 AM.
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