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[Build Log] Thermaltake Level 20GT Dual Loop (Completed)

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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-05-2020, 07:55 AM - Thread Starter
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[Build Log] Thermaltake Level 20GT Dual Loop (Completed)

This build is a rehash of my most recent build:

https://www.overclock.net/forum/1808...-finished.html

As stated there, the reason for the re-build is because my cats were obsessed with all the exposed lights, tubes and wires of the p90 (which is an obvious outcome).

So I decided to do a build in a more conventional case, one that is not open-air. I didn't want to make it a mod-heavy build, and I saw the Thermaltake Level 20GT case. I don't have a particular affinity for Thermaltake products (I don't do builds often enough anyways), but this seemed like a all-round nice looking case.

The biggest challenge was to fit a dual-loop in the case, as I wanted to re-use my old components. The dual-loop is for looks rather than performance.

With that, we can get started. I'll separate the phases of the build into different posts to make the thread easier to navigate. Feel free to use the Table of Contents below to skip around.

Table of Contents:

1.) Parts List and Breaking Down Old Build
2.) Unboxing Level 20GT and Fitting Radiators/Fans
3.) Most Parts Arrive and Measuring Pass-through Panel
4.) Testing Radiator Fans and Assembling Reservoirs
5.) Installing Motherboard+GPU and Cutting Mirror Pass Through Panel
6.) Drilling Pass Through Holes
7.) Attaching Reservoirs to Case
8.) Finishing Pass Through Drilling and Cutting Tubes
9.) Planning Top Panel Tube Routes
10.) Bending Tubes for Top Panel
11.) Installing Cables and All Tubing
12.) Final Pictures/Video

Last edited by Tomiger; 06-05-2020 at 10:46 AM.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-05-2020, 07:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Final Pictures/Video

Whether you skipped directly to this post or read through the entire log, here are the final results. Hope you enjoyed the log!

Filling the loop and some glamour shots:


And some still photos:

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Last edited by Tomiger; 06-05-2020 at 10:24 AM.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-05-2020, 08:07 AM - Thread Starter
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0.) Parts list

Here is a break down of the parts used in the build. Most everything is the same from the old build:

Hardware:
Thermaltake Level 20GT case
Asrock Z370 Killer
Intel i7 8700K
32GB DDR4 Corsair Vengeance
512GB Samsung 970 Pro MMe.M2
EVGA GTX 1060 SSC
EVGA Supernova 750 G3
Custom PSU cables from MAINframe Customs

Cooling:
XSPC EX120 and EX240 radiator
3x Riing Trio 140mm fans
3x Riing Trio 120mm fans
1x Riing Duo 120mm fan
EK-Supremacy EVO Nickel/plexi CPU water block
EK-FC GeForce GTX FE RGB Nickel waterblock
EK-FC1080 GTX backplate
Monsoon 100mm and 200mm modular reservoirs with bottom pump setup
2x EK-D5 pumps
Mayhems Pastel Concentrate+distilled water and dyes
Assortment of Monsoon fittings

1.) Breaking Down P90 Loops

The first step was to take down the P90 build. This was bittersweet as I really enjoyed this build and wished I could have gotten more use out of it. I am re-using the GPU and CPU blocks, as well as the fittings. I took apart the blocks to clean some of the gunk out and then ran Mayhem's blitz part 2 through the blocks.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-05-2020, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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2.) Unboxing Level 20GT and Fitting Radiators/Fans

At some point during the break down of the P90 loop, the new case came in. It's been quite a while since I've unboxed a "normal" case.

This case has a total of 4 tempered glass windows: the usual main compartment side panel, the front panel, the top panel and for whatever reason, the "other" side panel. I am not one who has enough patience and skill to make my "behind the scenes" cable routing pretty to look at. So I could have gone without the glass there.

But I really like the way the side panels open and close, with the magnets. I also do like the sturdiness the side panels, since they certainly won't flex or bend.

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After unboxing, I stripped out the main compartment so I could start seeing how things will fit.

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The first challenge was how to accommodate the radiators for a dual loop. The front panel area of the case can support up to a 360mm or a 420mm radiator. My first plan would be to use two 240mm radiators, one for each loop. But that just will not fit. I tried thinking of other configurations but nothing seemed to satisfy my requirements. I could have went with just two 120mm radiators or two 140mm radiators, but that would leave a lot of empty space, which bothered me.

I opted to go with one 240mm and one 120mm. That fills in the space inside the case nicely. I didn't have the 240mm radiator I needed on-hand to test this, but I had a left over white one from another build. We'll see in later posts how I will execute the tube routing.

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However, now I needed to deal with the front fans, which would be visible through the front panel glass. I didn't like how there would be a gap between the fans due to the radiators. So I figured out that you can fit a 140mm fan in the front, provided that you install the inside radiators first and be a careful with lining up the screws for the 140mm. With that, I will be able to fit three 140mms in the front, which will fill in the spaces nicely. Below I used the 140mm that came with the case to test.

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3.) Most Parts Arrive and Measuring Pass-through Panel

I decided to spend (or waste, depending on how you look at it) the money for RGB controllable fans. I'll be using 3x 120mm Riing Trio fans for the inside and 3x 140mm Riing Trio fans for the outside. I'll also use a single Riing Duo 120mm for the case exhaust (since I wasn't going to spend the ridiculous amount of money to get another three pack of the Riing Trios just to get one more fan).

I also got the 240mm radiator I needed and some Monsoon parts for the reservoirs I'll be using. I coudn't re-use the giant ones from my previous build. And some RGB strips that are compatiable with the Riing fans. Why not?

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The plan is to put one reservoir on the case floor and the other on the PSU shroud that comes with the case. By shear luck, a 100mm reservoir on the shroud ends up at the same height as a 200mm reservoir on the floor. This was a bonus for me, as it will look a lot nicer having the reservoirs at equal heights. At the time of the photo, I didn't have two black reservoir/pump stands, so I used a spare white one.

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Now for the actual mod portion of the build. I wanted to do a pass-through panel, as I have never done one before. And one of the build logs/videos that I saw which influenced my decision to get this case had done one. So I figured if it was possible to engineer one within the case, I should be able to manage something.

The pass-through panel will sit on the top of the case, resting on these little edges/lips.

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So I took some measurements to order some pieces. I wanted to try something a bit different than the typical solid black or white acrylic panels. I found a place online that sells mirror acrylic, where the mirror is on both sides. I don't mean a two-way mirror like in interrogation rooms, but a mirror on both sides.

I happened to have a spare piece of single-side mirror acrylic that I hacked to fit in to give an idea of what it could look like from the top panel.

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Last edited by Tomiger; 06-05-2020 at 10:52 AM.
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4.) Testing Radiator Fans and Assembling Reservoirs

Since I had all the fans I needed now, I made sure everything fit how I planned. When the fans/LEDs are hooked up and not configured by the software, their default light pattern is a rainbow-wave. Makes for some interesting pictures.

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Next, I put together the modular reservoirs. I'm using the vertical pump mounts to support and secure the reservoirs to the case. I will physically secure them to the case later. For now, I just eye-balled where they will be placed

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5.) Installing Motherboard+GPU and Cutting Mirror Pass Through Panel

With most everything decided as far as location, I installed the motherboard and GPU.

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Next, the two-sided mirror acrylic I ordered came in. I picked a default size that was as close as to what I needed. The length was fine but I needed to make it a bit skinnier. I don't have the proper power tools to do a nice straight cut, so I just scored the hell out of it and snapped it off. It went better than I thought.

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I also needed to cut a little notch out of one sides to fit over some parts of the case. This was small enough that I was able to do it with a scroll saw

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I also wanted to see how lighting would work in the top panel with the mirror acrylic. The problem with mirrors is that they reflect (duh), so anything that you don't want to be seen may be a bit trickier to hide. I wanted the panel to more or less glow, and for the LEDs not be be visible in the reflection. I found that if I stuff the LED strip right onto the side of the panel, it gives the effect I want. I used a spare white LED strip to test this, as the crazy rainbow-wave pattern of the Thermaltake ones was not making it easy to see how well it worked.

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After that, I tapped up the piece since I'll be drilling holes for the pass-through fittings.

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Last edited by Tomiger; 06-05-2020 at 09:12 AM.
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6.) Drilling Pass Through Holes

This was the part I was most worried about. I wasn't sure of the best way to accurately mark where the holes needed to be.

The plan was for every single tube inside the case to be straight/vertical, going up to the panel. So there isn't a lot of room for error.

After a while of searching around, I found an old post on OCN where someone used this little laser tool used to sight in rifle scopes (I believe it is called a boresight, sorry I am not too knowledgeable about this!). The size the user mentioned allows for it to fit quite nicely into a fitting. With that, I made some marks and started drilling.

I did not mark and drill holes for the reservoirs yet. This is because they do have some amount of flexibility in where they can be placed. I also wanted to physically secure them to the case before I made any marks.

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My main concern was whether the pass through fittings would fit for the two radiators, as their holes are very close together. We'll see later once I ordered more pass through fittings that they just barely fit.


I made a couple test tubes to make sure things looked OK

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7.) Attaching Reservoirs to Case

As mentioned above, before making the final pass-through holes, I needed to attach the reservoirs to the case. The short res will be on the PSU shroud. I used a template that came with the mount and went from there:

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Next, the long res will be attached to the case floor. This was less clean and more hacky. I just made some general marks where it will be and use some pliers to break apart the case to allow for some screws to pass through. Not the cleanest, but it is covered up by the mount:


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8.) Finishing Pass Through Drilling and Cutting Tubes

With the reservoirs in place, I made the marks for the in/out-lets and drilled. Now all holes are drilled:

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Now for the easiest set of tube bending I've done: straight bends!

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I'll have pictures later of the tubes installed.
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