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post #1751 of 1768 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 01:36 AM
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@postem First of all, we're talking nickel-plated coolers here; so no chance of that happening either way.
(this is the Noctua thread, all their coolers come plated)

Lastly, my fault for neglecting an important piece.. sorry about that :S
After the copious cold water/toothbrush treatment and prior to leaving it for a few minutes to dry, blow it. They're good dryers as well, same principle as with drying your hands; will take almost the entirety of the water out right away, the sun exposure immediately after just for good measure.

I don't have smart phones, iphones, ipads or anything with which i can take a digital picture, but i have nickel-plated coolers dating to about a decade and i promise you, their condition is such that, had i told you they're still brand new, you'd have believed me. Toothbrushes; a wonderful thing

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post #1752 of 1768 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 10:08 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Aenra View Post
@postem First of all, we're talking nickel-plated coolers here; so no chance of that happening either way.
(this is the Noctua thread, all their coolers come plated)

Lastly, my fault for neglecting an important piece.. sorry about that :S
After the copious cold water/toothbrush treatment and prior to leaving it for a few minutes to dry, blow it. They're good dryers as well, same principle as with drying your hands; will take almost the entirety of the water out right away, the sun exposure immediately after just for good measure.

I don't have smart phones, iphones, ipads or anything with which i can take a digital picture, but i have nickel-plated coolers dating to about a decade and i promise you, their condition is such that, had i told you they're still brand new, you'd have believed me. Toothbrushes; a wonderful thing
Thanks for the reply.
AFAIK noctuas are only heatpipe/base copper/nickel plated, the whole of the fins are just aluminium, otherwise also the cooler would probably double the weight, and the price.
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post #1753 of 1768 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 11:46 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by postem View Post
Thanks for the reply.
AFAIK noctuas are only heatpipe/base copper/nickel plated, the whole of the fins are just aluminium, otherwise also the cooler would probably double the weight, and the price.
That is my understanding as well. Same applies to Thermalright.

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post #1754 of 1768 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 01:30 PM
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Work in progress, love my Noctua
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post #1755 of 1768 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 01:32 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by postem View Post
AFAIK noctuas are only heatpipe/base copper/nickel plated, the whole of the fins are just aluminium, otherwise also the cooler would probably double the weight, and the price.
I know that.. partly a possible cultural gap, partly my never bothering to cover the basics, though it appears i once again should have. Surprise.
Where liquid -could- harm your cooler, could, it will not; because it is plated and soldered. Shall we frame it thus and finally call it a day?

Anyway, i've never had rust, discoloration or any other issue with cleaning air coolers the way i have been. As stated in fact, they still look brand new; despite their age and in some cases (chipset coolers, particularly my HR-55), heavy usage in adverse conditions, as i used to smoke in the office. Even so.
But you guys are obviously free to discount it.

Here, i'll help. Coolers get grey and rusty in a few years, nothing we can do about it. To quote another poster here, it's only natural.

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post #1756 of 1768 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 04:12 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Aenra View Post
I know that.. partly a possible cultural gap, partly my never bothering to cover the basics, though it appears i once again should have. Surprise.
Where liquid -could- harm your cooler, could, it will not; because it is plated and soldered. Shall we frame it thus and finally call it a day?

Anyway, i've never had rust, discoloration or any other issue with cleaning air coolers the way i have been. As stated in fact, they still look brand new; despite their age and in some cases (chipset coolers, particularly my HR-55), heavy usage in adverse conditions, as i used to smoke in the office. Even so.
But you guys are obviously free to discount it.

Here, i'll help. Coolers get grey and rusty in a few years, nothing we can do about it. To quote another poster here, it's only natural.
You, like most users haven't had flinsh develop a patina, but it does happen quite often. As for oxidation developing into white corrosion, that is usually the resust of a damp cooler being stored is an air-tight place, like in box. That kind of oxidation doesn't happen over night.

I have washed coolers, even motherboards and GPU in hot soapy water to clean heavy smoke buildup. I then rinse with distilled water and blow-dry with wife's hair dryer. For motherboards of GPUs I often warm up the oven and set them in for a few more hours. Reasons for usign distilled water final rinse is it has no impurities in it to react with anything and it does not conduct electricity.

To remove patina try using a silver cleaning cloth like used to clean silverware or jewelry. I've done this a few times on cooler fins.

Phanteks Owners Club Ways to Better Cooling
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@ 4.0GHz =R1 Ultimate w/2x TY-143 fans =Dominator GT 6x2GB =Rampage III Extreme =ASUS GTX580 DirectCU II =TX850 =Enthoo Primo w/ custom castor base
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post #1757 of 1768 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 12:53 PM
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Agreed, can help if the situation requires it i suppose, but assuming a good blowing prior to letting it out, even that is too much.
Of course, OK, depends on location too; am in southern EU, so a few minutes in the sun for me is.. yeah.. again though, always blow it first; nothing takes water out like a good blower.
(and semi-unrelated, but by blower i mean the garden variety; no "PC-specialised" crap, no chemicals, no replaceable air cans; good 'ole traditional air blower)

Where it's a must is on copper surfaces; there yeah, after coating with a proper paste and wiping it out, you do need a thorough, consistent rub with a cloth; consistent, not hard

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post #1758 of 1768 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 05:53 AM
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Hello everyone,

Did anyone tried or know of anyone who did, to use the Thermalright TY-143 fans instead of the stock fans? If yes, what kind of improvements can we expect from a push/pull with TY-143s? ( I know that 2500rpm == moarr noise ... xD ).

Bottom line, my AIO is dead and I'm having second thoughts going to AIOs again ... I have 2 of those fans here and I remember that on the NH-D14 there was a 8º improvement... curious about D15.

Thank you all!

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post #1759 of 1768 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 06:04 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Pedros View Post
Hello everyone,

Did anyone tried or know of anyone who did, to use the Thermalright TY-143 fans instead of the stock fans? If yes, what kind of improvements can we expect from a push/pull with TY-143s? ( I know that 2500rpm == moarr noise ... xD ).

Bottom line, my AIO is dead and I'm having second thoughts going to AIOs again ... I have 2 of those fans here and I remember that on the NH-D14 there was a 8º improvement... curious about D15.

Thank you all!
@doyll has done this. You should similar performance gains with the D15 as the D14.

Yeah....the little girl hentai avatar is really creeping me out....
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post #1760 of 1768 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 07:26 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Pedros View Post
Hello everyone,

Did anyone tried or know of anyone who did, to use the Thermalright TY-143 fans instead of the stock fans? If yes, what kind of improvements can we expect from a push/pull with TY-143s? ( I know that 2500rpm == moarr noise ... xD ).

Bottom line, my AIO is dead and I'm having second thoughts going to AIOs again ... I have 2 of those fans here and I remember that on the NH-D14 there was a 8º improvement... curious about D15.

Thank you all!
Quote: Originally Posted by ciarlatano View Post
@doyll has done this. You should similar performance gains with the D15 as the D14.
What ciarlatano said. D15, D15S and D14 all perform almost exactly the same with same fans, if anything the D14 is maybe 1c better. If it was me and you can't fit 171mm tall by 155mm wide TRUE Spirit 140 Power in, them D14 or D15S would be good choice. D15S has offset fin packs so does not reach as far down toward PCie sockets. It is also less money with only one fan that you plan replacing with TY-143's anyway.
But TRUE Spirit 140 Power with TY-14e's is even better if it will fit.

Phanteks Owners Club Ways to Better Cooling
i7 980 @ 3.55GHz =PH-TC14PE w/2x TY-143 fans =Crucial Ballistix 3x4GB =GA-X58A-UD5 =ASUS GTX580 DirectCU II =Enermax Modu84+ =Define R2 w/3x TY-140 case intake fans; all PWM controlled by CPU fan socketPhanteks Enthoo Primo MoBo Rampage III Extreme CPUi7 980X
@ 4.0GHz =R1 Ultimate w/2x TY-143 fans =Dominator GT 6x2GB =Rampage III Extreme =ASUS GTX580 DirectCU II =TX850 =Enthoo Primo w/ custom castor base

Last edited by doyll; 08-23-2019 at 07:56 AM.
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