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morpheus vega edition? anyone know what's different compared to regular?

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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-15-2018, 03:42 PM
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I have a pair of Corgar Vortex on my RX480. VRMs get to 90C with the fans at 100% and 30C room temperature. I'm using some small Al heatsinks that I had from an extra Accelero unit (the stock Morpheus VRM heatsink does not fit). Swapping the fans to a pair of Grand Flex fans temps. drop to 84C (30C room temp. also).

Even at 90C VRMs don't give me issues, but I can't say how it would apply to a Vega card.

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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-15-2018, 04:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by Melcar View Post
I have a pair of Corgar Vortex on my RX480. VRMs get to 90C with the fans at 100% and 30C room temperature. I'm using some small Al heatsinks that I had from an extra Accelero unit (the stock Morpheus VRM heatsink does not fit). Swapping the fans to a pair of Grand Flex fans temps. drop to 84C (30C room temp. also).

Even at 90C VRMs don't give me issues, but I can't say how it would apply to a Vega card.
I was thinking of getting two Arctic BioniX F120's. Pretty cheap and figured they would be decent enough to provide downdraft.. Not sure now.

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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-16-2018, 06:02 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by orlfman View Post
I was thinking of getting two Arctic BioniX F120's. Pretty cheap and figured they would be decent enough to provide downdraft.. Not sure now.
I've not used the BioniX but have used F9, F12 and F14 PWM and TC in several applications and find them quite good, especially for their low price. Used the TC models on GPU coolers because their remote sensor temperature controlled speed made it so easy to have fan speed cycle with temp on GPUs without having to purchase or make fan plug adapters.

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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-20-2018, 12:19 AM - Thread Starter
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So I got my morpheus in. Ordered the regular silver morpheus ii and newegg sent me the core, black edition. I really don't mind.



The arctic f12 ball bearing fans push nearly zero air at low rpm. At first I left the fan profile in wattman at default and in heaven benchmark after 15 minutes my core was 75c, hbm 90c, and hotspot 102c. Fan rpm was around 20% speed... 20% of 1350 max rpm. After messing with the fan profile temps dropped to a more reasonable 67c core, 77c hbm, and 95c hotspot. It actually made me impressed by the cooler though as with near zero air flow the heatsink was keeping such a behemoth within "stable" ranges practically all by itself. Compared to reference 85c core, 95c hbm, and 97c hotspot. Hotspot really didn't change much for me at all. I already re-mounted three times to no avail. My die is molded so I figured my hotspot must truly be hot regardless. Frequency wise I'm maintaining 1540-1560mhz on the core with default voltage and p states. along with solid 945mhz hbm 2. In a few games, like FO4, i'm cruzing at 1630mhz core. So I'm pretty thrilled. Reference I was averaging 1410mhz. Even in FO4.

Picked up some m2.5 screws at home depot and I added thermal pads on the chips on the back side like the doublers. In installing the cooler I used the reference retention bracket for I can use the backplate. I used the morpheus mounting screws and springs. I took the springs off the morpheus screws and placed them under the retention bracket to mimic how amd had theirs done. At first I wasn't going to do it but I noticed a solid reason as to why amd did it the way they did. Amd's bracket only has non-conductive padding on the center of the bracket, but not along its legs that reach out. The springs prevent the bracket from touching the pcb as the springs sit on the mounting holes which are grounded while also acting as a mechanism to prevent over tightening. I know people appear to have gotten away without using the springs with the reference bracket from some of the guides I read, but I just wanted to be somewhat safe. In terms of mounting pressure, Morpheus bracket has non-conductive padding on the backside of its bracket that goes all the way down the legs. Along with the springs so in the end I figured the pressure must be similar.

I am thinking of getting better static pressure fans though. I went with arctic because they were a cheap pair of fans for temporary use. I'm just debating whether to get two 2150rpm typhoons pwm, ek Vardar 2200rpm, or wait for arctic's new static pressure fans to hit US retail.


Last edited by orlfman; 11-20-2018 at 12:37 AM.
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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-20-2018, 02:18 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by orlfman View Post
So I got my morpheus in. Ordered the regular silver morpheus ii and newegg sent me the core, black edition. I really don't mind.



The arctic f12 ball bearing fans push nearly zero air at low rpm. At first I left the fan profile in wattman at default and in heaven benchmark after 15 minutes my core was 75c, hbm 90c, and hotspot 102c. Fan rpm was around 20% speed... 20% of 1350 max rpm. After messing with the fan profile temps dropped to a more reasonable 67c core, 77c hbm, and 95c hotspot. It actually made me impressed by the cooler though as with near zero air flow the heatsink was keeping such a behemoth within "stable" ranges practically all by itself. Compared to reference 85c core, 95c hbm, and 97c hotspot. Hotspot really didn't change much for me at all. I already re-mounted three times to no avail. My die is molded so I figured my hotspot must truly be hot regardless. Frequency wise I'm maintaining 1540-1560mhz on the core with default voltage and p states. along with solid 945mhz hbm 2. In a few games, like FO4, i'm cruzing at 1630mhz core. So I'm pretty thrilled. Reference I was averaging 1410mhz. Even in FO4.

Picked up some m2.5 screws at home depot and I added thermal pads on the chips on the back side like the doublers. In installing the cooler I used the reference retention bracket for I can use the backplate. I used the morpheus mounting screws and springs. I took the springs off the morpheus screws and placed them under the retention bracket to mimic how amd had theirs done. At first I wasn't going to do it but I noticed a solid reason as to why amd did it the way they did. Amd's bracket only has non-conductive padding on the center of the bracket, but not along its legs that reach out. The springs prevent the bracket from touching the pcb as the springs sit on the mounting holes which are grounded while also acting as a mechanism to prevent over tightening. I know people appear to have gotten away without using the springs with the reference bracket from some of the guides I read, but I just wanted to be somewhat safe. In terms of mounting pressure, Morpheus bracket has non-conductive padding on the backside of its bracket that goes all the way down the legs. Along with the springs so in the end I figured the pressure must be similar.

I am thinking of getting better static pressure fans though. I went with arctic because they were a cheap pair of fans for temporary use. I'm just debating whether to get two 2150rpm typhoons pwm, ek Vardar 2200rpm, or wait for arctic's new static pressure fans to hit US retail.
For what it's worth (I'm on a 1070ti instead of a Vega) I'm using a pair of 1450rpm BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 with great results, core temps dropped to 50c at 1050rpm, from 75c at ~2500rpm on the stock blower cooler. No way to check VRM temps on nvidia sadly, but I'll take the risk and assume they're fine since boost clocks are stable throughout testing.
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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-20-2018, 05:10 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by orlfman View Post
So I got my morpheus in. Ordered the regular silver morpheus ii and newegg sent me the core, black edition. I really don't mind.

The arctic f12 ball bearing fans push nearly zero air at low rpm. At first I left the fan profile in wattman at default and in heaven benchmark after 15 minutes my core was 75c, hbm 90c, and hotspot 102c. Fan rpm was around 20% speed... 20% of 1350 max rpm. After messing with the fan profile temps dropped to a more reasonable 67c core, 77c hbm, and 95c hotspot. It actually made me impressed by the cooler though as with near zero air flow the heatsink was keeping such a behemoth within "stable" ranges practically all by itself. Compared to reference 85c core, 95c hbm, and 97c hotspot. Hotspot really didn't change much for me at all. I already re-mounted three times to no avail. My die is molded so I figured my hotspot must truly be hot regardless. Frequency wise I'm maintaining 1540-1560mhz on the core with default voltage and p states. along with solid 945mhz hbm 2. In a few games, like FO4, i'm cruzing at 1630mhz core. So I'm pretty thrilled. Reference I was averaging 1410mhz. Even in FO4.

Picked up some m2.5 screws at home depot and I added thermal pads on the chips on the back side like the doublers. In installing the cooler I used the reference retention bracket for I can use the backplate. I used the morpheus mounting screws and springs. I took the springs off the morpheus screws and placed them under the retention bracket to mimic how amd had theirs done. At first I wasn't going to do it but I noticed a solid reason as to why amd did it the way they did. Amd's bracket only has non-conductive padding on the center of the bracket, but not along its legs that reach out. The springs prevent the bracket from touching the pcb as the springs sit on the mounting holes which are grounded while also acting as a mechanism to prevent over tightening. I know people appear to have gotten away without using the springs with the reference bracket from some of the guides I read, but I just wanted to be somewhat safe. In terms of mounting pressure, Morpheus bracket has non-conductive padding on the backside of its bracket that goes all the way down the legs. Along with the springs so in the end I figured the pressure must be similar.

I am thinking of getting better static pressure fans though. I went with arctic because they were a cheap pair of fans for temporary use. I'm just debating whether to get two 2150rpm typhoons pwm, ek Vardar 2200rpm, or wait for arctic's new static pressure fans to hit US retail.
What is temp to speeds i curve set at?

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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-20-2018, 10:15 AM
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Black Core Edition:

This is how I chose to deal with the VRM's. Works well. Those chokes get kind of toasty as well so I sinked those as well. The fans are 2400 rpm Silent Wings 3.
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-20-2018, 11:01 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Elloquin View Post
Black Core Edition:

This is how I chose to deal with the VRM's. Works well. Those chokes get kind of toasty as well so I sinked those as well. The fans are 2400 rpm Silent Wings 3.
Nice looking heatsinks. I suspect the copper ones can remove more heat then the bigger aluminum ones do .. considering the heat transmitting ability of is aluminum is 205 W/(m K) and Cooper is 400 W/(m K)

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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-20-2018, 11:17 AM
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Did you glue the heatsinks on? Or just tape?

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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-20-2018, 01:37 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by doyll View Post
Nice looking heatsinks. I suspect the copper ones can remove more heat then the bigger aluminum ones do .. considering the heat transmitting ability of is aluminum is 205 W/(m K) and Cooper is 400 W/(m K)
Thank you. That was the thought. The bigger aluminum ones shouldn't be used on the VRM's. It's a ROG STRIX Vega 64 card and those resistors to the right of the VRM's are higher than the VRM's themselves. The copper sinks are 10 x 10 x 15mm. Any bigger and you run the risk of poor contact with the VRM and/or shorting those resistors. There are two more VRM's to the left under those other aluminum sinks. I couldn't use copper there because the resistors and the choke in that area are too close <10mm. The chokes run much cooler than the VRM's anyway.


Quote: Originally Posted by Melcar View Post
Did you glue the heatsinks on? Or just tape?
I just used the thermal tape the cooler came with. Just stick them on hold down for 60 secs set the next one. When your done just run a hairdryer over them on low heat for a few minutes to help set the glue. Then let it sit for an hour or two. I did the same thing on a 7890 years ago and still have the card and the heat sinks are still on there. I have also used TIM and made a tiny spot clean in the middle of the sink and then put a tiny dot of crazy glue in that spot and stuck it on the chip in the past. To get them off if needed put the card in the freezer overnight take it out and you should be able to twist the heat sink off. Disclaimer: just because it has worked for me does in no way guarantee it will work for you

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Last edited by Elloquin; 11-20-2018 at 01:47 PM.
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