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Need Advice for Cooler Orientation and fans

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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 08:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Need Advice for Cooler Orientation and fans

My current PC is a Ryzen 7 2700, B450 Tomahawk, TR HR-01X with a DIY AM4 mount, Powercolor RX580 Red Devil in a Coolermaster CM690 1st gen. my fan setup is as follows :


Two front intake fans : CM 120mm Blue LED fan in front of the HDDs and CM 120mm Blue LED fan in a CM 4in3 module in 5.25 slots


HR-01X : Silverstone 120x25 globe fan? Its the quietest fan I have and so it went on the HR-01X



Bottom intake : Papst 120x32 fan from 90s vintage


Side intake : Delta 70x10 blowing onto the mobo backplate


Top exhaust : 2x CM 120mm generic fans


Rear exhaust : NMB 120x38, 24V fan running on 12V


two front intake fans, side intake, top exhaust and bottom intake are all running on 7V via a custom adapter.


Here's how it all looks :





Lately I'm getting irritated by the noise it makes, its very evident past 10PM when ambient noise reaches to very low levels. Temperature wise, I'm still running the CPU at stock settings and touch a max of 61* on the CPU, 45* on the VRM. I will be OCing it soon.


My questions :


Do I need to change the orientation of the heatsink i.e., flip it 90*? Is there a benefit or is this fine? I remember even with a TR kit it will be mounted 90* from what I have now. I will have to make a new mount from scratch to get the 90* rotation, although making one will not cost me anything and quite easy.


How many of these fans can I get rid of? I can try running them on 5V but ideally want to get rid of as much fans as possible. I'm on a very tight budget (blew it all on the ryzen upgrade) and so buying any new fans is out of question.


I'm currently using CM mastergel pro TIM for the CPU. Should I change it over to Conductonaut/liquid metal? My RX580 is already on liquid metal and have experience dealing with it. I don't have any better TIM with me and have no means of getting new TIM as of now.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Side intake : Delta 70x10 blowing onto the mobo backplate

Top exhaust : 2x CM 120mm generic fans

Get rid of those. Top exhaust is generally unnecessary if you have a good rear exhaust and cooling the "mobo backplate" never is something I've ever seen anyone do ever, lol. it's not needed.

and yes, rotate the cooler.

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AMD FX-8320 Vishera @ X4 5022mhz (+43.5%)
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AMD X4 960T Zosma @ X6 4870mhz (+62.3%)
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 07:33 AM
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What The Polk said. Top exhaust tend to pull air up .. not just in front of cooler but heated air coming off of GPU too.

Front to back airflow in towers usually works best. Below is link to basics about airflow and how to optimize case airflow. Hopefully it will help you understand how to improve your airflow and lower noise levels and make it easier to help you resolve your issues.

https://www.overclock.net/forum/22319249-post5.html

Yes, turning your CPU cooler 90 will help front to back flow.

I've not used 690 so am kinda guessing, but I suspect removing all unused PCIe back slot covers to increase rear venting around GPU thus improving front to back airflow and lowering temps, with front fan panele full of intake fans with a good pressure rating as well as blocking any holes in front fan mounting panel not covered by fans will push a nice supply of air into case.

Phanteks Owners Club Ways to Better Cooling
i7 980 @ 3.55GHz =PH-TC14PE w/2x TY-143 fans =Crucial Ballistix 3x4GB =GA-X58A-UD5 =ASUS GTX580 DirectCU II =Enermax Modu84+ =Define R2 w/3x TY-140 case intake fans; all PWM controlled by CPU fan socketPhanteks Enthoo Primo MoBo Rampage III Extreme CPUi7 980X
@ 4.0GHz =R1 Ultimate w/2x TY-143 fans =Dominator GT 6x2GB =Rampage III Extreme =ASUS GTX580 DirectCU II =TX850 =Enthoo Primo w/ custom castor base
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 09:51 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by doyll View Post
What The Polk said.

Yeah....the little girl hentai avatar is really creeping me out....
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 10:05 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by ciarlatano View Post

Intel i9 9900K Coffee Lake @ X8 5309mhz (+47.5%)
AMD FX-8320 Vishera @ X4 5022mhz (+43.5%)
Intel i5 4690K Haswell @ X4 5013mhz (+43.2%)
AMD X4 960T Zosma @ X6 4870mhz (+62.3%)
Intel i7 6700 Skylake @ X4 4709mhz (+38.5%)
Intel i5 6400 Skylake @ X4 4588mhz (+69.9%)
2 OP pls nerf
(24 items)
NUC U
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i9 9900K
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AsRock Z390 Taichi
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Mushkin Pilot NVMe 1TB
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HP EX950 NVMe 2TB
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Samsung 860 Evo 1TB
Hard Drive
Sandisk Ultra II 480GB SSD
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Toshiba X300 5TB
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Power Supply
Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 750w
Cooling
Corsair H115i Pro
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Fractal Design Meshify S2
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Acer XF270HU
Monitor
Dell E2311H
Keyboard
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SMSL SA50 + FiiO E10K
Audio
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Philips SHP9500S
Audio
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CPU
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Motherboard
Intel NUC8i3BEH
GPU
Iris Plus 655
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Logitech M510
CPU
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Hard Drive
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 10:34 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by ciarlatano View Post
Indeed!

If you want trophies, build system to handle extreme load testing.

If you just want normal use, build system to handle maximum loads you will every run at safe temps and noise levels you are happy with.
You'll never know the difference .. unless you are after trophies.

Phanteks Owners Club Ways to Better Cooling
i7 980 @ 3.55GHz =PH-TC14PE w/2x TY-143 fans =Crucial Ballistix 3x4GB =GA-X58A-UD5 =ASUS GTX580 DirectCU II =Enermax Modu84+ =Define R2 w/3x TY-140 case intake fans; all PWM controlled by CPU fan socketPhanteks Enthoo Primo MoBo Rampage III Extreme CPUi7 980X
@ 4.0GHz =R1 Ultimate w/2x TY-143 fans =Dominator GT 6x2GB =Rampage III Extreme =ASUS GTX580 DirectCU II =TX850 =Enthoo Primo w/ custom castor base
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 07:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by The Pook View Post
Get rid of those. Top exhaust is generally unnecessary if you have a good rear exhaust and cooling the "mobo backplate" never is something I've ever seen anyone do ever, lol. it's not needed.

and yes, rotate the cooler.

Thank you, will do as you suggested. Just finished fabbing the new mount, i'll report back in couple of days with the results.





Quote: Originally Posted by doyll View Post
I've not used 690 so am kinda guessing, but I suspect removing all unused PCIe back slot covers to increase rear venting around GPU thus improving front to back airflow and lowering temps, with front fan panele full of intake fans with a good pressure rating as well as blocking any holes in front fan mounting panel not covered by fans will push a nice supply of air into case.

I have those perforated PCI covers which probably wont hinder airflow as ive seen dust settle on them too.



I'm thinking of knocking off the front bottom intake fan as it only blows air onto a wall of HDDs and wont help in airflow at all.


Also thinking of trying a vertical GPU mount. How will this change the equation?


Thanks a lot for your inputs, it has really helped me so far!
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 07:40 PM
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GPU will be closer to the side so GPU temps would/could go up but otherwise the rest of the system shouldn't be affected.

Intel i9 9900K Coffee Lake @ X8 5309mhz (+47.5%)
AMD FX-8320 Vishera @ X4 5022mhz (+43.5%)
Intel i5 4690K Haswell @ X4 5013mhz (+43.2%)
AMD X4 960T Zosma @ X6 4870mhz (+62.3%)
Intel i7 6700 Skylake @ X4 4709mhz (+38.5%)
Intel i5 6400 Skylake @ X4 4588mhz (+69.9%)
2 OP pls nerf
(24 items)
NUC U
(10 items)
CPU
i9 9900K
Motherboard
AsRock Z390 Taichi
GPU
MSI GTX 1080 Ti
RAM
G.Skill DDR4 4133 32GB
Hard Drive
Mushkin Pilot NVMe 1TB
Hard Drive
HP EX950 NVMe 2TB
Hard Drive
Samsung 860 Evo 1TB
Hard Drive
Sandisk Ultra II 480GB SSD
Hard Drive
Toshiba X300 5TB
Hard Drive
Western Digital EZRZ 3TB
Power Supply
Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 750w
Cooling
Corsair H115i Pro
Case
Fractal Design Meshify S2
Operating System
Windows 10 Education x64
Monitor
Acer XF270HU
Monitor
Dell E2311H
Keyboard
CoolerMaster MasterKeys Pro S
Mouse
Logitech G502
Audio
SMSL SA50 + FiiO E10K
Audio
Micca RB42
Audio
Polk Audio PSW111
Audio
Philips Fidelio X2
Audio
Philips SHP9500S
Audio
Audio Technica ATH-M50X
CPU
i3 8109U
Motherboard
Intel NUC8i3BEH
GPU
Iris Plus 655
RAM
Kingston 8GB DDR4 2400
Hard Drive
Dierka K1 120GB
Hard Drive
ADATA SU800 128GB M.2
Operating System
Windows 10 Professional
Operating System
MX Linux
Keyboard
Rii RKM709 Wireless
Mouse
Logitech M510
CPU
i7 860
Motherboard
Advantech AIMB 280 ITX
GPU
EVGA GTX 950 2GB
RAM
Kingston 2GB DDR3 1333
Hard Drive
Seagate Momentus 2.5" 500GB
Hard Drive
Western Digital Blue 2.5" 320GB
Power Supply
Silverstone SFX-L Gold 500w
Cooling
Arctic Alpine 11 GT 2
Case
Silverstone Milo Z ML07B
Operating System
Windows XP x86 SP3
Keyboard
Velocifire TKL01 Outemu Browns
Mouse
Logitech M512
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 01:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by The Pook View Post
GPU will be closer to the side so GPU temps would/could go up but otherwise the rest of the system shouldn't be affected.

I'm just going to flip the card and shove it inside the existing pci slots ( with some help from my dremel ofcourse) while doing this, I'll try to push the car as much towards the motherboard.



Also what's your opinion of using conductonaut/liquid metal for TIM between CPU and HS?
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 01:40 AM
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About your liquid metal question, here's an old post I made in another thread where I wrote down my experience with it:

Quote:
I was unhappy with using liquid metal between my i5-3570k CPU and my NH-D14. The liquid metal will turn hard over time, and then you will not be able to fully remove it anymore. There will be small clumps of dark material fused to the base of the cooler. You will have to use sandpaper to get the base of the cooler smooth again.

The liquid metal hardens over time because certain components of it start moving into the copper of the NH-D14. I guess it's the "gallium" metal part of the liquid metal. When you then polish the base of the cooler with sandpaper, you will remove the nickel plating from the base and will see the red color from the copper that's underneath the nickel plating. In the middle of the cooler's base, the copper will have a silver instead of a red color. That's because in that area it will be a sort of alloy of copper and gallium.

A very annoying thing that happened here for me was, because the liquid metal had turned hard, there were flakes of metal flying around the motherboard after I removed the NH-D14. One of those flakes managed to get into the CPU socket. I noticed this because one memory channel stopped working after I had reassembled the PC. I had to try to fish out that metal flake from between the socket pins without destroying the pins. That was pretty annoying.

Another thing I noticed, the liquid metal between CPU and cooler did not age better than thermal paste. After several years, when the liquid metal was fully hardened, the temperatures were noticeably worse than in the beginning.

This whole experience was a bit sad and I would recommend against using liquid metal between CPU and cooler.
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