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post #11 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-27-2020, 01:02 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by GoldCartGamer View Post
I live in an environment with 4 pets so I don't want to remove those filters if possible. There is a rear filter? Last I checked there is only front, top, and bottom. Currently the case fans are stock with stock config. They aren't cutting it.

meant top and front.

dust and pet hair don't go in exhaust, lol. if you're using your top fans as exhaust the filter does nothing but lower airflow.

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post #12 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-27-2020, 03:38 PM
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No you you are not in the efficiency curve in fact you are far outside it and you have fallen for the ancient 50% load myth
https://www.overclock.net/forum/31-p...load-myth.html

Unless you have the machine at a 100% CPU and GPU load 24/7 your efficiency pretty much sucks since you are using it so little
Might as well have bought a 650 watt 80 plus bronze or silver unit the efficiency is not too far apart

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post #13 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-27-2020, 04:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by Veii View Post
I understand you, i dislike CLCs which are not full copper everywhere
Sadly the market still awaits some because of the global lockdown - In Win & Asus's ROG full copper one still is in undefined ETA (likely 2 months more)
Your current best options for full copper CLCs where Alphacool their and Swiftech H X3 series

The Kryo Extreme is sometimes featured in their videos as pink paste
KINGPIN has one which is very stiff and works good enough (the kryonaut good enough range)
But the Kryo Extreme has to be requested personally - it exists since 2017 and continues to be developed further
He does give it to some OCers, but so far only under personal request - because it's not under global production status


This might turn into offtopic, but can you tell me what you OC'd at which voltages
You have to know your voltage range because every sillicon has an unique allcore voltage
Only the maximum voltage of 1.48v does stay as known limit - while new Agesa & new SMU can push it to 1.5
This is some post to read about how to find out unique sillicon voltage, do not use online values for OCing
The cpu is far more capable to OC themself than most OCers tries
Unless you've worken on finding out FIT voltage for your sillicon - i strongly advice against running anything over 1.3v on it and using per CCX OC
On some, hardlimit might even be 1.28x - soo know your FIT voltage before you attempt to beat the FIT module and AMDs research

Ex Asus fan, but will definitely keep an eye out for their full cooper cooler coming out.
So guessing the average CLC is not full copper like the EVGA one I mentioned. I was very intrigued by the Swiftech after GamersNexus review. Hadn't looked at Alphacool's offerings. Either way I always prefer air over water for cooling.



Are you talking about the KPx paste? I never looked into it previously, but good to know it is similar in performance to kryonaut.
I found a bit of info on it this afternoon. I wonder if he could ship it to the US.



I've done settings under XFR enhancment in the BIOS such as FCLK (manual settings) and PBO (all manual settings). I adjusted the LLC settings and set vcore soc as well. I previously tinkered with per CCX, but lost the time to play with those further. I believe I got a decent OC that appeared stable after running tests. I wish I could remember the values. It was on an older AGESA. I feel like I had the best performance on ABBA so far. Thank you for the link. I will definitely check it out. I have installed 1usmus power and made a few settings in BIOS as he instructed. RAM OC was lazy and could be tighter, but it is 3800 16-18-18-8. Would be happy to share what I have done so far via PM so as to avoid any further off-topic.




Quote: Originally Posted by The Pook View Post
meant top and front.

dust and pet hair don't go in exhaust, lol. if you're using your top fans as exhaust the filter does nothing but lower airflow.

Oh okay.

I am aware, lol. Right now I am just using stock fan config (2 front intake and 1 rear exhaust). Removal of the top dust filter removes a large portion of the top since it is built into the panel though. Is that safe? I will keep the front filter though.

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post #14 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-27-2020, 05:01 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by GoldCartGamer View Post
Oh okay.

I am aware, lol. Right now I am just using stock fan config (2 front intake and 1 rear exhaust). Removal of the top dust filter removes a large portion of the top since it is built into the panel though. Is that safe? I will keep the front filter though.

there's metal tabs around the edge of the mesh that curl around the top panel, bend the tabs out and the mesh will come off and take the foam filter filter that's inside out. you can put the mesh back and bend the tabs back after you take the filter out. front works the same way.

if you're not running top exhaust then there probably isn't much point to it though. you can test it out and if you don't see any improvement then you can put it back but it'd probably do little to nothing without fans up there.

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post #15 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-28-2020, 12:59 AM - Thread Starter
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I have narrowed down my intake fans to Noctua NF-A14 PWM or be quiet! Silent Wings 3 140mm PWM High Speed. I will order 3 of whichever fan to be used as intake and remove the stock fans (2 intake and 1 exhaust).

Anyone have experience with both fans? Liked one over the other? I am leaning towards Noctua due to experience and prior installs with their products.


Quote: Originally Posted by The Pook View Post
there's metal tabs around the edge of the mesh that curl around the top panel, bend the tabs out and the mesh will come off and take the foam filter filter that's inside out. you can put the mesh back and bend the tabs back after you take the filter out. front works the same way.

if you're not running top exhaust then there probably isn't much point to it though. you can test it out and if you don't see any improvement then you can put it back but it'd probably do little to nothing without fans up there.


Okay cool. I will take a look at it and see if it makes a difference.

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post #16 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-28-2020, 03:54 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by GoldCartGamer View Post
Ex Asus fan, but will definitely keep an eye out for their full cooper cooler coming out.
So guessing the average CLC is not full copper like the EVGA one I mentioned. I was very intrigued by the Swiftech after GamersNexus review. Hadn't looked at Alphacool's offerings. Either way I always prefer air over water for cooling.

It makes no difference having an alu rad but an AIO will cool the 12/16 core AMD chips better than an air cooler and you don't have to worry about in case thermals so much.

realistically you are not going to see much difference between the two in terms of frequency

Last edited by poah; 03-28-2020 at 06:23 AM.
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post #17 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-28-2020, 04:37 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by GoldCartGamer View Post
I have narrowed down my intake fans to Noctua NF-A14 PWM or be quiet! Silent Wings 3 140mm PWM High Speed. I will order 3 of whichever fan to be used as intake and remove the stock fans (2 intake and 1 exhaust).

Anyone have experience with both fans? Liked one over the other? I am leaning towards Noctua due to experience and prior installs with their products.
I've used both in few builds. I strongly prefer the SW3 over the Noctua - they move more air at like noise levels and have a nicer sound signature. My results were consistent with what VSG shows here - http://thermalbench.com/2016/09/22/b...-140-mm-fan/3/



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post #18 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-28-2020, 07:35 AM
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Ignore poah's garbage talk about AIOs/CLCs. CLCs are a sub-group of AIO. CLCs are the factory sealed coolers with very low flowrate pumps (40-60L/h - about same as healthy adult can urinate) and have no provision for miantanance or repair, don't last as long as air coolers, cost much more, and when they fail you have no cooling so can't use computer until new cooler is installed. With air coolers the only thing that fails is fan, they work at low load without fan, and any fan can be held on with rubber bands until new fan is in hand. AIOs are like Swiftech and Alphacool Eisbaer have better quality copper rads, threaded fittings, fill port, more powerful pumps, etc. Alphacool also makes be quiet! Silent Loop. Few years ago HardForum tested several air cooler, AIO/CLC, and their custom loop on super high heat TR4 and found top tier air was very good and similar to water cooling at same noise levels. But most AIO/CLC are louder at higher cooling levels. One cooler was Silver Arrow TR4 with TY-143 2500rpm fan and it cooled almost as well as their fancy custom loop.

What ciarlatano said. Silent Wings 3 PWM high speed are much better.

I would not remove anything from top vent. We want airflow front front to back so GPU heated exhaust that comes out front, back top, toward side cover and toward motherboard is moved back and out of case, not up. Making top vent less restrictive means more of the air front fans are pushing into case will move up and right out of case before even reaching CPU cooler When this happens the heated air coming out of GPU moves up in front than into CPU cooler.

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post #19 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-28-2020, 08:03 AM
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I don't get it.
If your ambient temp is going to be 20c during the summer what's the problem with the your cooler and stock case fans? Only time my room gets that cold is the middle of winter at 5 am with all the doors and windows open.

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post #20 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-28-2020, 12:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by ciarlatano View Post
I've used both in few builds. I strongly prefer the SW3 over the Noctua - they move more air at like noise levels and have a nicer sound signature. My results were consistent with what VSG shows here - http://thermalbench.com/2016/09/22/b...-140-mm-fan/3/



Thanks for the link and charts. I ended up spending a bunch of time on his site and reading his reviews on techpowerup as well. It appears to me the Blacknoise and EK Vadar are the best performing 140mm fans form his tests on both sites. Or are the be quiet! SW3 High fans plenty?



Quote: Originally Posted by doyll View Post
Ignore poah's garbage talk about AIOs/CLCs. CLCs are a sub-group of AIO. CLCs are the factory sealed coolers with very low flowrate pumps (40-60L/h - about same as healthy adult can urinate) and have no provision for miantanance or repair, don't last as long as air coolers, cost much more, and when they fail you have no cooling so can't use computer until new cooler is installed. With air coolers the only thing that fails is fan, they work at low load without fan, and any fan can be held on with rubber bands until new fan is in hand. AIOs are like Swiftech and Alphacool Eisbaer have better quality copper rads, threaded fittings, fill port, more powerful pumps, etc. Alphacool also makes be quiet! Silent Loop. Few years ago HardForum tested several air cooler, AIO/CLC, and their custom loop on super high heat TR4 and found top tier air was very good and similar to water cooling at same noise levels. But most AIO/CLC are louder at higher cooling levels. One cooler was Silver Arrow TR4 with TY-143 2500rpm fan and it cooled almost as well as their fancy custom loop. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif[/IMG]

What ciarlatano said. Silent Wings 3 PWM high speed are much better.

I would not remove anything from top vent. We want airflow front front to back so GPU heated exhaust that comes out front, back top, toward side cover and toward motherboard is moved back and out of case, not up. Making top vent less restrictive means more of the air front fans are pushing into case will move up and right out of case before even reaching CPU cooler When this happens the heated air coming out of GPU moves up in front than into CPU cooler.

Oh I did. I skipped right over it and kept moving. I've seen the data on AIO/CLC vs Air coolers. Not worth it to water cool unless doing a full custom loop.



How about the EK Vadar and Blacknoise fans? They seem to perform better.



After I read your link about airflow and optimum case cooling, I realized removing that top panel was not a good idea. So much info on here and other places as I dig down this rabbit hole of finding the best for my build. I became cross-eyed again last night. I reminded myself again about the servers I build and will stick to their method of cooling / design. Intake fans, sealed case, and no exhaust fans. It seems to line up with your findings and recommendations. I only got a case with mesh / filter due having pets. I read more about why removing the PCIe slot covers works and it is something I never honestly thought about until I stumbled upon your thread before making this post.



Quote: Originally Posted by Redwoodz View Post
I don't get it.
If your ambient temp is going to be 20c during the summer what's the problem with the your cooler and stock case fans? Only time my room gets that cold is the middle of winter at 5 am with all the doors and windows open.

We are on overclock.net and I can promise you my setup is not running on stock settings.


Plus, that is not a guaranteed ambient. The thermostat is on the other side of the house, my office faces the sun in the afternoon, I have a few electronics in my office that generate heat, etc. The CPU cooler I have is fine. I just wanted a gut check on it. The case fans are absolute garbage at full speed, let alone any other speed. Barely blow any air. I wanted to seek out the best case fans and optimal case airflow. Then doyll's posts made it click. My case is no different than a server case. At the end of the day it is still computer parts.

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