Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: San Jose, California
I did not replace any resistors, I added those 8 mOhm resistors on top of the original 5 mOhm ones. There is one on the front and one on the back. If you want to replace them you need to use 3 mOhm shunts, using 8 mOhm ones would lower the power limit a lot. There was plenty of room for the double stacked shunts under my water block and backplate (both from EK).
Check out my Titan X (Pascal) mod (link in the first post) to see a photo of the stacked shunts from the side, it worked exactly the same way on my 2080 Ti (except both shunts were on the front of the Titan X).
I think 350°C is about where I found it to work well, too hot is bad because we don't want any other components falling off but at the same time it needed to be pretty hot to melt the solder between the two shunts. I tinned the new resistor, held it on top of the original one with tweezers, and heated it from the top to melt the solder between the two. This created a good connection between them without using extra solder which might get where it shouldn't. Surface mount can be tricky with very small components near by while soldering larger things. I found that I needed to turn up the temperature until the solder melted, just a little bit cooler and it wouldn't flow no matter how long I heated it, while as soon as I got the soldering iron hot enough it would flow within a few seconds and the entire process was pretty easy and safe feeling.