You probably have plenty of rads/fans, more rads won't help with short term spikes just long term loop temp stability.
Right after I did my 7980XE build, I did a similar experiment. All my pumps and fans are controlled from bios, so I can't really adjust on the fly. I didn't think flow (as long as it was "flowing", not just stagnant) was that big of a deal. My pumps go to 100% if I disconnect the fan header, so I started running something (maybe Blender Classroom since it takes a while to run), opened Afterburner since it has a CPU temp graph option, and just unplugged the fan header. The CPU temps dropped like 10 degrees before I could even look back at the monitor, so I ran them up to about 45% on a flat fan curve (I hate stuff ramping up and down anytime the CPU load changes) and that seemed to be a good spot, not a lot of temp difference from there to 100% - not nearly as much as from where I had 'em which was probably 20% or something to 45%. Not as silent as before, but not near loud and the sound never changes regardless of what I throw at it.
So yeah, I might be able to drop my temps a bit more if I ran the pumps at 100%, but it's good enough where it is now. I will say that I really do like pumps that go to 100% with no signal, I also have pumps that barely run with no signal and filling a loop like that is just tedious. I keep a spare PSU on hand to do loops so I don't have to disconnect everything and use the system PSU for loop changes/filling. I ought to break down and try one of those nice fan controllers.
Originally Posted by Jpmboy
I am sooo tempted to send you my 2080Tis for a clean mod...
You notice I didn't take any pictures of this go around? Yeah, there's a reason ;-)
It would have been fine if I had bought the right resistors, it was not a fun evening. The picture on the Mouser website showed what I thought I was getting, but there's a disclaimer that it's just representative. So yeah, it was a 8mOhm 2512, but just a different style. On the bright side, I know what's inside of them now. And that's what threw me, I melted the end of the "body" on one that was soldered fine - just no area on the solder strip to get the iron on there without touching it. So removing that one removed the body part and the actual resistor is just a metal strip in between the solder pads. I think it'd be easier to just ditch the body part and solder it that way and cover it back with liquid tape - or buy the right resistors in the first place.