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post #9746 of (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 08:56 AM
Jpmboy
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Quote: Originally Posted by GnarlyCharlie View Post
You probably have plenty of rads/fans, more rads won't help with short term spikes just long term loop temp stability.

Right after I did my 7980XE build, I did a similar experiment. All my pumps and fans are controlled from bios, so I can't really adjust on the fly. I didn't think flow (as long as it was "flowing", not just stagnant) was that big of a deal. My pumps go to 100% if I disconnect the fan header, so I started running something (maybe Blender Classroom since it takes a while to run), opened Afterburner since it has a CPU temp graph option, and just unplugged the fan header. The CPU temps dropped like 10 degrees before I could even look back at the monitor, so I ran them up to about 45% on a flat fan curve (I hate stuff ramping up and down anytime the CPU load changes) and that seemed to be a good spot, not a lot of temp difference from there to 100% - not nearly as much as from where I had 'em which was probably 20% or something to 45%. Not as silent as before, but not near loud and the sound never changes regardless of what I throw at it.

So yeah, I might be able to drop my temps a bit more if I ran the pumps at 100%, but it's good enough where it is now. I will say that I really do like pumps that go to 100% with no signal, I also have pumps that barely run with no signal and filling a loop like that is just tedious. I keep a spare PSU on hand to do loops so I don't have to disconnect everything and use the system PSU for loop changes/filling. I ought to break down and try one of those nice fan controllers.



You notice I didn't take any pictures of this go around? Yeah, there's a reason ;-)

It would have been fine if I had bought the right resistors, it was not a fun evening. The picture on the Mouser website showed what I thought I was getting, but there's a disclaimer that it's just representative. So yeah, it was a 8mOhm 2512, but just a different style. On the bright side, I know what's inside of them now. And that's what threw me, I melted the end of the "body" on one that was soldered fine - just no area on the solder strip to get the iron on there without touching it. So removing that one removed the body part and the actual resistor is just a metal strip in between the solder pads. I think it'd be easier to just ditch the body part and solder it that way and cover it back with liquid tape - or buy the right resistors in the first place.
Of course a PSU is fine.. absent that I use a little 12V 3A power brick-transformer - like from a charger or what ever. Put a 4-pin molex on the end and good to go. Runs D5s, DCCs, and 400s. one of those "easy button" things.

ASUS Z370/Z390 Motherboard Support Thread, Coffee Lake OC Guide
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X299
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x99
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Z370
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CPU
7980XE
CPU
7740X
CPU
9900X
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ASUS Rampage VI Apex
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Gigabyte Aorus G9
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Rampage VI Extreme Omega
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2x Nvidia Titan V
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GTX 1080
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2 2080Ti FE / EK Vector Blocks
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G. Skill 2x(2x8GB) 3600c15 @4000c16
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INtel Optane 900P
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WD Raptor
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Corsair AX1500i
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Koolance EXC-800
Case
Microcool Banchetto 101 (Alu)
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Corsair 570X
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Win 10 Pro
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ROG Swift
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Ducky
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Spatha
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6950X
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ASUS Rampage V Extreme-10
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Titan Xp
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Titan Xp
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G Skill 8x8GB 3200c14 @3400c13
Hard Drive
Samsung 960 Pro
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ASUS BR/DVD/CD
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Corsair AX1500i
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2x360 Aq Copper Rads
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Aquaero 6
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Koolance ERM-3K3U (9-fan mora)
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Ek Full Cover MB waterblock
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CaseLabs Mercury S8
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AGON 32 inch
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Das Pro
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Logitech G700
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8700K
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8086K
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ASUS Maximus X Apex
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GTX 1070Ti FTW2
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2x8 GB G.Skill 4400c19
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G.Skill 3600c16 4x6GB
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Intel 750
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PLextor DVD/CD
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Corsair AX1500i
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Corsair HX 1200i
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Seasonic Titanium 850W
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360Rad + Chiller
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Koolance ERM-3K3U
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Corasir 570
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