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post #71 of 86 (permalink) Old 07-31-2020, 05:43 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by kiriakos View Post
All power cord cables they have specification of a maximum mating cycles, when the power cord fits loosely this is a symptom indicating that it must be replaced.
The maker of any PSU has no obligation or responsibility about such issues.

What it make sense instead, this is the home owner to require yearly inspection of entire electrical installation among power cords, due an certified electrician.
It's a brand new psu and still under warranty. A little over a month old. Well within the 3 month time frame I have with my credit card company to dispute a charge if present problems aren't resolved. Though I have no doubt Seasonic will take care of the problem once I contact them about it.

Think some of that might of been lost in translation.

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post #72 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-01-2020, 06:12 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by postem View Post
I have exactly same PSU, in use almost 3 years. Its not on a H500M inside a metal hull, i never paid much attention about it, gonna check. Usually i double check PSU connections, but with seasonic 24 pin cable i never had this kind of issue.
Worth looking in to. Though mine was likely just shrink wrapped higher up then it should of been leading to it acting like a clamp. Doubt it was a widespread issue though if I experienced it, others likely did. One thing with Seasonic rma's is they tell you to only send in the psu so if there's an issue with the wires it wouldn't be caught.

Quote: Originally Posted by D-EJ915 View Post
Don't have any more cables? You could try bending the fingers inside the connector on the cable to see if it holds on better. Cables are usually the crappy bit and not what you are plugging it into, from my box of like 30 power cables 2 or 3 have loose connectors.
I tested my x-850's power cable and it secures fine. Guess I just got a wonky power cable.

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post #73 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-01-2020, 08:00 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by kiriakos View Post
Translation = PSU protection circuitry this is excellent!



Translation = The model is highly trusted, even if one component failed from the 170 in total.
Advice from an electrician engineer, stop using the old power cable for the Mains, and use the new that comes with the fresh PSU.
I am interested,.. what happens to old cables to cause issues with a computer?

Be honest, behind the facade of those things, the real priority is just screwing everyone over in the name of obscene profit & delaying any kind of backlash as long as possible. That's the real world.
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post #74 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-02-2020, 02:05 PM
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My new 550 GX SeaSonic PSU has been working good for almost a year.

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post #75 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-02-2020, 02:18 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Gilles3000 View Post
Sounds like some terrible luck to have both a mains socket and 24pin defective back to back. Have owned 2 Seasonics, 1 EVGA, 1 Corsair and 1 CM PSU and all expect the CM have been mint, had to RMA the CM because it coil whined like a mad banshee, but otherwise functioned normally.
I've returned a couple Seasonic G series for coil whine, replaced with EVGA G2 (SF Leadex) no whine what so ever, fully fanless.
Some PSU designs aren't great, no matter what maker let alone brand.

Quote: Originally Posted by Chargeit View Post
I haven't had the best of luck when spending over $100 on a psu.

The 24 pin wasn't defective, it was shrink wrapped tight and then plugged in in a way that caused it to peel itself out of the psu. I sent a video of it to Seasonic and showed them what I felt was wrong with the design and how it promoted the 24 pin cable pulling itself out of the psu. I'm guessing they had other issues like this and figured it out themselves because I noticed their newer units now connect the 24 pin at the psu side by side instead of over each other causing peeling forces. I was able to resolve the problem by cutting the shrink wrap.
Cables should not pull out of a PSU or any connector out of anything when they are clicked in and secured. Guess the plastic hook was bent or mismatch of the male female connectors allowed it to slip over due to bad tolerances, it may have clicked in but the hook was so small it jumped out over it.

Should be able to plug in any DC side cable into PSU, take it by the cable and spin it around, it's not supposed to come out on it's own.
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post #76 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-02-2020, 03:48 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Paradigm Shifter View Post

Ultimately, any electronic device can die at any time. *glares at every washing machine I've ever owned*
It's funny and strange but there are washing machine fan clubs. These are people who are still running washing machines from the 1960's and 1970's I'd imagine they've been rebuilt but how one would get parts to rebuild a 40 or 50 year old washing machine is a question to itself.

https://www.automaticwasher.org/
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post #77 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-02-2020, 06:31 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by 8051 View Post
It's funny and strange but there are washing machine fan clubs. These are people who are still running washing machines from the 1960's and 1970's I'd imagine they've been rebuilt but how one would get parts to rebuild a 40 or 50 year old washing machine is a question to itself.

https://www.automaticwasher.org/
Those were simpler machines than the current ones.
And perhaps many of those broken parts can be machined on the cheap.
It's not rocket science really.

Computer power supplies that use group regulation and don't have synchronous rectification can generally be repaired indefinitely.
There are no complex transformers (used in resonant topologies) and only fairly simple semiconductors are used.

Mostly just replace the capacitors showing wear and you should be good to go for many years.
Semiconductors don't fail as often, provided they are not overly stressed by design (running close to their limits).
But if they do, you are better off with older designs that use common components and not PITA to find and replace chinese or american IC's.
Some random chinese chip could have been made by a small company that is now defunct.
American chips are just plain expensive and often hard to obtain. Good quality and excellent performance though.

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post #78 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-02-2020, 08:54 PM
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Wringer and twin tub machines from that period tended to be really simple to repair and generally lasted until they rusted out.

The automatics though had this awful clockwork timer thing with big plastic cams and lots of microswitches and they really sucked to repair and generally had to be replaced. if you could not source a replacement the machine generally was better off being junked.
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post #79 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-02-2020, 08:58 PM
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can be a fluke, it happens... hopefully didnt take nothing with it..

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post #80 of 86 (permalink) Old 08-03-2020, 09:49 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by clannagh View Post
Wringer and twin tub machines from that period tended to be really simple to repair and generally lasted until they rusted out.

The automatics though had this awful clockwork timer thing with big plastic cams and lots of microswitches and they really sucked to repair and generally had to be replaced. if you could not source a replacement the machine generally was better off being junked.
My mom's washing machine lasted some thirty years until I guess the seals gave out and it began leaking water from the tub. It had never been serviced either, not even once. Was that commonplace for those old tub style washers?
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