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Deciding between 3 Yamaha Receivers

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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-25-2011, 03:01 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm relatively new to Home Audio and I'd like some of you guys recommendations, I'm looking at these 3 Yamaha receivers at Best Buy, all similarly priced and features, but I really don't know the main differences between the 3, if you could fill me in that would be great, also, if there are any other receivers at Best Buy similarly priced that you would recommend as well I'd like to see them.

RX-V371
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Yamaha+-+675W+5.1-Ch.+A/V+Home+Theater+Receiver/2052194.p?skuId=2052194&id=1218307633099

RX-V471BL
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Yamaha+-+525W+5.1-Ch.+A/V+Home+Theater+Receiver/2053041.p?skuId=2053041&id=1218307633716

RX-V467BL
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Yamaha+-+525W+5.1-Ch.+A/V+3D+Pass-Through+Home+Theater+Receiver/9785055.p?skuId=9785055&id=1218173777379


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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-25-2011, 03:31 PM
 
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The second one is so expensive because it has Bluetooth connectivity and an iPod interface. Unless you plan on using either one of those features, I would scratch it right off the list. If you don't have a 3D TV nor are considering getting one, don't bother with the third one either. That would leave the first one, just simply a nice powerful 5.1 receiver.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-25-2011, 05:35 PM
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The wattages are also off, you can see the 467 is actually the heaviest unit here, meaning it would have the bigger amp.

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-27-2011, 06:33 PM
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I would go for the first because it offers video up scaling and the others do not.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-27-2011, 09:49 PM
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371 is the cheapest 2011 model. 467 is a step above, but from last year. The 471 is a 2011 model, and a step above the 371. If all of them are the same price, go for the 471. I wouldn't trust the amp rating anyway, since it's probably for 2 channels driven.

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-27-2011, 09:52 PM
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Wait.. they're not all the same price? And those are pretty average prices. You can get a Denon 591/791/1612 or a Onkyo TX-SR508/608 or the Yamaha V667 or a Pioneer equivalent for about $250. They might be 2010 models, but not much has changed unless you need network capabilities).

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-27-2011, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Eugenester View Post

Wait.. they're not all the same price? And those are pretty average prices. You can get a Denon 591/791/1612 or a Onkyo TX-SR508/608 or the Yamaha V667 or a Pioneer equivalent for about $250. They might be 2010 models, but not much has changed unless you need network capabilities).

http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/category/AVReceiver/Home-Audio/Home-Theater-Receivers/1.html thumb.gif


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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 12:13 AM
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Just don't make your decision based on wattage ratings here... They are all very overrated anyways. The 675W rated unit is rated at a 6 ohm load, while the others are rated at an 8 ohm load, so technically speaking there is no meaningful difference in their amplification power. In truth, you'll probably rarely if ever tap into more than 10W per channel anyways.

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 01:03 AM
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Just don't make your decision based on wattage ratings here... They are all very overrated anyways. The 675W rated unit is rated at a 6 ohm load, while the others are rated at an 8 ohm load, so technically speaking there is no meaningful difference in their amplification power. In truth, you'll probably rarely if ever tap into more than 10W per channel anyways.

" no meaningful difference in their amplification power" What about head-room and distortion at any given watt.? Thats all for now, I don't want an infraction because of you.thumb.gif


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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-28-2011, 02:34 AM
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" no meaningful difference in their amplification power" What about head-room and distortion at any given watt.? Thats all for now, I don't want an infraction because of you.thumb.gif

I don't think anyone is going to get an infraction over some constructive debate about amplifier ratings smile.gif

The most important thing to keep in mind is that, wattage ratings in general are far less important than the market would intend for you to believe. In order to increase your listening level by 3 decibels, you have to double your power. Since most people listen to their music and movies in the 80-100db range, very few people make use of available power above about 10W per channel. Getting from that 100db listening level up to that rock concert 110db is what will require the other "90w" on a 100WPC system. The difference between 100 and 130W is negligible and pointless because even if the amplifiers could actually operate cleanly at those levels (none of the ones linked to here can so it doesn't matter), the difference would be about 1 decibel, the smallest increment of sound pressure difference detectable by the human ear.

Now... Lets go back to the point I was making about the amplifiers being rated differently and apply this concept of "headroom."

Headroom is the idea that you have lots of available power, without compression or distortion, above the power level you are currently listening at. The result is that, if there is a sudden impact or transient that requires some extra oomf in the listening material, the amplifier will have enough "free" headroom to nail it without distorting. Headroom is also important when you are dealing with typical speaker loads that vary their load widely across the the listening range. While an amplifier may be rated to provide 100W into 8 ohm, it's important to keep in mind that many 8 ohm speakers may dip as low as 4-6 ohm at certain frequencies, also, they will often rise to 50 or more ohm at other frequencies. This all has to do with resonance peaks in the system that produce peaks and valleys in load. There is nothing unusual about this.

When the load presented to an amplifier is of lower resistance, the amount of current the amplifier can drive across that load almost always increases. This does not necessarily mean that it can do so without additional distortion, it just means that the electrical path can flow more electrons because the resistance is lower. An amp with "perfect" overhead capability, will double it's output with each halving of the resistance in the load (down to a reasonable level... an amp rated [email protected] should deliver close to [email protected]). In my experience, most of the cheaper receivers, like the ones being compared in this thread, will only increase their available output by ~66% when the resistance is cut in half TWICE, which means, less than 200WPC into 2 ohms for most ~100WPC rated receivers, even though they are rated ~100WPC into 8ohms. When the amplifier is rated at ~135WPC at 6 ohms, it really has no significant or important meaning compared to being rated ~100W at 8Ohm. Technically speaking, the 100WPC unit will probably be capable of 130W at 6ohm, and vice versa... Though in this price range, I can assure that none of these amps will sound even remotely clean if operated at these levels anyways so it is all a moot point.

If you put a set of 6 ohm speakers on those "105WPC" rated units, it will be capable of playing just as loud as the same speakers on those "135WPC" rated units, provided the speakers in each comparison have equal efficiency and compression characteristics.

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