Swapping microswitches for "dummies" - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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Swapping microswitches for "dummies"

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post #1 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 06:13 AM - Thread Starter
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I swapped the G400 switches to OMRON D2F-01F, while i had to fix the rattling left mousebutton anyways, so i took pics from the desoldering/soldering process:

http://imgur.com/a/OnbZb

These pics should be kinda selfexplaining.

Soldering itself:

-The tip of the solderingiron has to be clean of burnt "flux" to take solder to it and to conduct enough heat, so wipe of the flux often
-The wet sponge is meant to clean the tip from burnt flux in the first place, rather than from solder(I also bought brass-wool for that purpose, it cleans the tip more mechanical and doesn't cool the tip so much)
-If you solder with little heat, what you should do for this procedure, you might need to take some solder to the tip first to contuct enough heat for melting the solder at the pins

Procedure:

-heat up the soldering iron/station (you can see on the first picture, which temperature i recommend for these kind of solderingstations(the cheap ones))
-fixate the PCB(the board where the switches sit on) in the "third-hand tool", which is absolutly necessary in my opinion and experience
-take some solder to the tip first, melt one pin of the switch and apply more solder like shown on pic 3
-apply even more solder as shown in pic 4 and keep it molten, while you pull out the switch from(pic 5/6)
-suck off the lots of solder remaining with the desolder pump (the desolderpump has to be kept empty by activating it while you shake it forward, so the tiny bits of solder come out too)
-then heat up the still filled pin-holes from above of course, and suck them free from below as shown in pic 8
-if you have, take cleaning alcohol and remove the remaining flux on the PCB, i just scratched it off and wiped it away (pic 10 / 11)
-put in the new switch and solder it in:

i took a bit more of solder to the tip, and soldered one of the pins first this way with the sodler from te tip only, while i was pressing the new switch from below with my thumb to the PCB - so once it was fixated this way, i soldered the other pins like you do it the right way:

-take some solder to the tip only for heat conduction
-touch the pin-hole and the pin of the new microswitch with the prepared tip, and put solder to the heatened up spot

DONE


P.S.:

Like you can see on the last pic, i was so smart to solder in the left buttons switch in the wrong direction redface.gif

So i took the opportunity, and tried to desolder the switch with the taught method of desoldering, with the desolderpump.
1st pin: "oh not so bad"
2nd pin: "oh nice, it sucked up the metalplate around the hole aswell thumb.gif"






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post #2 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 06:44 AM
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Thanks! biggrin.gif
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post #3 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 09:28 AM
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if i read "desoldering pump" i still remember 105 cherry mx switches with 4 pins each...back in the days when mx red were still hot smile.gif.
worst, the filco had 87 mx black with 2 pins each. so changing the mx red from the cherry board to the filco tenkeyless were in total 594 pins...

you really regret not buying one of those fancy electrical desoldering guns.

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post #4 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 09:47 AM
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how did u fix the left mouse button rattle?

IGN: Was there any discussion about adding shooter mechanics like a cover system or regenerative health to the game, or would that be blasphemous?

Roman Ribaric: Cover system??? Regenerating health??? You can't be Serious!

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post #5 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 10:00 AM
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Quote:

-take some solder to the tip first, melt one pin of the switch and apply more solder like shown on pic 3

-apply even more solder as shown in pic 4 and keep it molten, while you pull out the switch from(pic 5/6)

 

 

That's an awesome method! I've learned something new =]

 

Does it matter what kind of solder i use? iirc, most consumer products these days are made using lead-free solder as required by RoHS.. But all i have is traditional 60/40 solder. would that work?

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post #6 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 11:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by firstolast View Post



That's an awesome method! I've learned something new =]

Does it matter what kind of solder i use? iirc, most consumer products these days are made using lead-free solder as required by RoHS.. But all i have is traditional 60/40 solder. would that work?

I've read it's even easier with 60/40 solder, as it melts earlier or something.
Quote:
Originally Posted by obi.van.kenobi View Post

how did u fix the left mouse button rattle?

That's another story:

The D2F-01F switches are those few micrometers higher, to eliminate the rattle(the space between button and microswitch is no more).
That's why i needed to sand something off of the stick on the right button tho.

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post #7 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 11:17 AM
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hi, i really appreciate this +rep

Now i have a question for you: is it possible to swap WMO switches to omrons, or if this isnt possible (im almost sure of this)
what are the best switches in the market to be replaceble ona WMO?
I will love you if you tell me(sry for my english frown.gif)

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post #8 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 11:33 AM - Thread Starter
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unfortunatly, the WMO uses another type of switch:

NO5j8l.jpg

I don't think that there are better ones available for that kind of switch.

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post #9 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thuNDa View Post

unfortunatly, the WMO uses another type of switch:
NO5j8l.jpg
I don't think that there are better ones available for that kind of switch.

do you think it's a madness to swap the WMO PCB to the ie3.0 one?

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post #10 of 98 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Cek View Post

do you think it's a madness to swap the WMO PCB to the ie3.0 one?

Dunno how it looks, but yes anyways. tongue.gif

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