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post #21 of 2511 (permalink) Old 08-05-2013, 07:18 AM
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I love it, great work.

Could you share more pics? Bottom, buttons, side buttons. Thank you.
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post #22 of 2511 (permalink) Old 08-05-2013, 12:20 PM
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Thanks. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

My choice for the sidebuttons would be those, i prefer low pressure buttons/switches. The same ones are in the wmo as main-switches.

Does not look elegant, but it works. biggrin.gif




jaja, blabla
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post #23 of 2511 (permalink) Old 08-17-2013, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Thunderbringer View Post

My AM "died" today. When i connect it with the pc, this happens: the dpi indicator blinks one time blue and goes out, 5-6 seconds later it blinks 10 times red and after that it stays on at purple. The sensor LED is on all the time. No button/sensor response. I have swapped the cable, the result is the same. Anyone experienced this? bonjeursmiley.png

That specific LED-sequence on the AM indicates, that the Sensor itself is damaged. The AM lives/works again after exchanging it with another one (broken rzr Abyssus), in height to match a 1.0x lense - without lense/bottom cut , ~1mm higher compared to native AM. Meassured CPI @ blue setting is exactly 1800 and the abolute LOD is ~3mm (icemat) without feet. On Goliathus ~ 4 CDs. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Conclusion: If you intend to swap lense, i recommend to solder the sensor further up/down instead to modify the lense. The work is worth it. thumb.gif

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post #24 of 2511 (permalink) Old 08-24-2013, 01:31 PM
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I added 2 mechanical keyboard switches (Cherry ML) as sidebuttons to a MS Wheel Mouse Optical 1.1A:



I use a PCB from a defective RAT 5 (sensor did not work anymore) to make this side buttons real mouse buttons 4 and 5.

More pics in my album.

I will do this mod again with alternate solutions. I will see ...
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post #25 of 2511 (permalink) Old 08-24-2013, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CeeSA View Post

I added 2 mechanical keyboard switches (Cherry ML) as sidebuttons to a MS Wheel Mouse Optical 1.1A:



I use a PCB from a defective RAT 5 (sensor did not work anymore) to make this side buttons real mouse buttons 4 and 5.

More pics in my album.

I will do this mod again with alternate solutions. I will see ...

I respect your work and effort but that's the most crapiest thing I have ever seen...

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post #26 of 2511 (permalink) Old 08-24-2013, 01:52 PM
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Has anyone done any ergo modifications? I currently use the G100 and feel like the back is way too arched to be comfortable in longer sessions, giving me pain in the area between my thumb and the index finger (the other side is fine, though). Otherwise this mouse is very good as it doesn't strain my wrist at all, a major problem I have with most gaming mice. I think I should experiment with thick tennis racquet grip or bicycle handlebar grip. Can't really go full-on Thunderbringer on this, otherwise I'd probably cut off the left-side piece of a WMO and mold it into place. tongue.gif
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post #27 of 2511 (permalink) Old 08-25-2013, 03:07 AM
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^ Why not? biggrin.gif If you already know what you need to change.
Quote:
racquet grip or bicycle handlebar grip.
^ this is obviously the faster solution. tongue.gif

I myself am trying to make a "tailor-made" shell. My plan so far: plasticine -> shape (see below) -> pour a plaster mold -> then fill the mold with plastic ( do not know yet what material, something that is easy to process.) Alternatively a 3d scan/print would be ideal.

Up until now, only hand/finger treat. This is a mixture between a SS Xai & MS ie3.0 + the front will be rather flat. Reminds me a bit of the R.A.T mice.
tbs 0.1! (Click to show)



Update:
tbs 0.2! (Click to show)






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post #28 of 2511 (permalink) Old 09-02-2013, 12:56 PM
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nothing special...

I take a RAT5 and put it in a RAT3 housing to make it light as possible:
Black mousewheel from the RAT3.

91gr w/o cable, with (for me atm) the best sensor PLN2031 4000dpi. I could live with the "lift bug" (Z-Axis) very well.

More pics in my album.
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post #29 of 2511 (permalink) Old 09-06-2013, 06:17 PM
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Microsoft IE 3.0 + Razer DA 3.5G, w/o sidebuttons and w/o weight optimization -> 93 grams (native IE 3.0 -> 95 grams). Until something better (non single PCB) gets released, this will be my DA´s home/shell. tongue.gifwubsmiley.gif

Since the loose sidebuttons cause noise even with switches, a "silent" solution is needed! But i do not want to glue them, because their placement/size is nice. Imo it would be a waste, not to make use of them.
DeathIE 3.5G! (Click to show)




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post #30 of 2511 (permalink) Old 09-07-2013, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CeeSA View Post

nothing special...

I take a RAT5 and put it in a RAT3 housing to make it light as possible:
"Snip"

91gr w/o cable, with (for me atm) the best sensor PLN2031 4000dpi. I could live with the "lift bug" (Z-Axis) very well.

More pics in my album.
I have had my Lachesis 3G since 2009, so I am interested to know your opinion! What mousepad do you use/recommend for the PLN2031 sensor?

Glyphosate and fluoride chelate metals allowing passage of the blood-brain barrier, and glyphosate destroys gut flora and depletes minerals.
USA fluoridates, allows so much glyphosate in water, and forces vaccines of metals, MSG, polysorbate, glyphosate, and etc.
The above, pollution, alcohol, sugar, dyes, artificial flavors, electromagnetic radiation, and etc. can increase inflammation.
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