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post #7101 of 7136 (permalink) Old 08-12-2018, 10:42 PM
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Does any know if the height of the default mouse feet is 0.6m?
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post #7102 of 7136 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 12:32 AM
 
 
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Quote: Originally Posted by wein07 View Post
Does any know if the height of the default mouse feet is 0.6m?
I'm pretty sure they're not 0.6m (60 cm), but what do you need this information for? The sensor can be tuned for a reasonable range of LOD's.
FWIW, I used the tallest appropriate skates from Hotline Games (0.6cm?) and they seem to be very close to the stock feet height.

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post #7103 of 7136 (permalink) Old 08-21-2018, 09:37 AM
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Having replaced the double clicking switches in my G303 i can conclude that D2F-01F maybe weren't the best choice, main buttons are now very light.
Side buttons on the other hand feel great.

They use a rather thick high quality PCB in the mouse making the switch replacement surprisingly hard despite having a high power soldering station.
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post #7104 of 7136 (permalink) Old 08-21-2018, 10:25 PM
 
 
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Quote: Originally Posted by Nopileus View Post
Having replaced the double clicking switches in my G303 i can conclude that D2F-01F maybe weren't the best choice, main buttons are now very light.
Side buttons on the other hand feel great.

They use a rather thick high quality PCB in the mouse making the switch replacement surprisingly hard despite having a high power soldering station.
That'd be a pretty fun hobby project for me to do. I have double clicking switches as well.
I know how to solder, so do you have any pointers to what switches I could try replacing them with?

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post #7105 of 7136 (permalink) Old 08-22-2018, 02:03 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by gonX View Post
That'd be a pretty fun hobby project for me to do. I have double clicking switches as well.
I know how to solder, so do you have any pointers to what switches I could try replacing them with?
I'd say if you don't like extra light clicks, but you'd want a good durability go with D2FC-F-K(50M). Shares the sane operating force as the default switches in this mouse afaik. Or if you'd like something heavier I'd go with blue Huanos.

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post #7106 of 7136 (permalink) Old 08-22-2018, 06:32 AM
 
 
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Quote: Originally Posted by vanir1337 View Post
I'd say if you don't like extra light clicks, but you'd want a good durability go with D2FC-F-K(50M). Shares the sane operating force as the default switches in this mouse afaik. Or if you'd like something heavier I'd go with blue Huanos.
Thanks for the response. I did some research of my own in the mean time, and found a decent thread on Geekhack describing the differences between Omron models.

I ended up looking at the non-Chinese ones because of their slightly higher bump.
They say it can be done on Logitech mice at the expense of some button flop which I really would not mind going away.

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post #7107 of 7136 (permalink) Old 08-22-2018, 09:30 AM
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The japanese D2F-01F omrons are what i used, we're talking feather light clicks. It's it's not necessarily bad but i'd need some time to get used to it, G303 is only my backup at this point. (305 got the better of me)
I didn't want to use the 20m chinese ones again due to their tendency to start double clicking faster than others, i have no clue how the 50m variant behaves.

More importantly unless you have experience soldering i wouldn't recommend doing it on the G303, the PCB soaks up heat like crazy due to the thickness and material used (1.7 or 2mm FR4, double sided) and the lead free solder used makes it even harder.
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post #7108 of 7136 (permalink) Old 08-22-2018, 11:45 AM
 
 
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Quote: Originally Posted by Nopileus View Post
The japanese D2F-01F omrons are what i used, we're talking feather light clicks. It's it's not necessarily bad but i'd need some time to get used to it, G303 is only my backup at this point. (305 got the better of me)
I didn't want to use the 20m chinese ones again due to their tendency to start double clicking faster than others, i have no clue how the 50m variant behaves.

More importantly unless you have experience soldering i wouldn't recommend doing it on the G303, the PCB soaks up heat like crazy due to the thickness and material used (1.7 or 2mm FR4, double sided) and the lead free solder used makes it even harder.
The only difference I was seeing with the Japanese was the slightly higher resting notch and supposedly better build quality.
Wouldn't really call myself an expert but I have made some solder jobs throughout the years which still work fine today. But good call, may test on a donor mouse or 2 first.

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post #7109 of 7136 (permalink) Old 08-22-2018, 04:41 PM
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It's just the geometry of the G303s buttons or maybe the pretensioning.
The D2F-01F tend to have a bit of a softer, less snappy actuation to them that feels great in mice like a WMO but here i think we need something more crisp.

Trying Huanos might be an interesting experiment, otherwise i reckon the D2FC-F-K 50m are probably the right choice.
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post #7110 of 7136 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 10:32 PM
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Anyone know if the G303 uses some sort of sticky residue or glue under the side buttons? Went to solder in a new switch and thought I'd clean it up while it was open and removed some yellowish residue from underneath the side buttons. Now the side buttons don't stick out anymore and can't actually click the side switches so I guess whatever that material was was holding them in place? Not sure.

Fairly new to messing with the internals of a mouse so any ideas would be appreciated, thanks.
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